mechanic help needed - ball joints

HMP

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Ok, so the ball joint has two bolts that you mount to the hub, but it also has a threaded rod/bolt in it, which has a castle nut.

Castle nut removed, two bolts to the hub removed
Threaded rod will not come out of the (think this is what it is) control arm
I have a ball join separator and all it's done is rip the boot and ooze grease

HELP!!!
 
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One free tip, take a ball peen hammer and hit the side area where the ball joint goes thru (thread rod piece) with a few good solid whacks then use ball joint fork tool to remove. May need to rinse and repeat a few times.
 
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I'll take a hammer to the sides

I should tell you, as it sits the strut assembly is out of the car, if that would make any difference

I love you guys, so quick to respond!
 
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Using the fork tool, when that sucker breaks loose, you should hear a very very loud pop sound. That'll be your indication it's ready to come out if it hasn't already popped out.
 
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One free tip, take a ball peen hammer and hit the side area where the ball joint goes thru (thread rod piece) with a few good solid whacks then use ball joint fork tool to remove. May need to rinse and repeat a few times.

What he said..... I used forks before, the hammer is much easier!
 
Castle nut shaft is tapered....this the very tight fit. As mentioned before hit the side with a hammer a few times.
 
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No luck.
I beat on it like i was single for a few months, but it didnt come (loose)

Besides that, the gland nut to hold the strut cartridge in isnt coming loose either.
PB Blaster'd the heck out of it.
Im exhausted, I'll go out there and fight with it more tomorrow

Should have paid someone for this, and now it's too late ha
 
I have to work tomorrow. If you don’t get it off by Thursday I can ride over and try to give you a hand with it. @HMP


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I'll let you know! This whole thing is frustrating as heck.

I might just take the strut housings to a shop and pay them a few bucks to get those gland nuts off.
 
You need a sledge hammer. I got a pickle fork from the parts store on loan and it it took some good whacks from a sledge hammer the first time I did it.
 
Id pickle fork the hell out of it. Hit it hard and just right, it'll come off within a few strikes.

Wait, that sounded... wrong.

If I were closer I'd help.
 
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Got any pics? When this happened to me, there were 2 ball joints, sticking out opposite ends of the whatever-it-was, and the mounting studs faced each other in between. I figured out something with extra nuts & threaded rod, that acted as a little screw jack between the 2 tapered mounting studs, or maybe between one stud and the opposite face of the fork. Tried to jack them out, didn't work.

But I left the "jack" assembly in there, with a heavy preload. THEN I hit it with the big hammer. "Pop", home free. Turned it around, did the other side. Didn't even need the pickle fork. (I'd been too cheap to buy one.)

Good luck. Those tapers are a bear. Then again, you don't want them coming loose while you're on the road. :)
 
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Ok, so the ball joint has two bolts that you mount to the hub, but it also has a threaded rod/bolt in it, which has a castle nut.

Castle nut removed, two bolts to the hub removed
Threaded rod will not come out of the (think this is what it is) control arm
I have a ball join separator and all it's done is rip the boot and ooze grease

HELP!!!


I've got one of these Ball joint tools you're welcome to borrow.

SmartSelect_20200527-073000_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
I've got one of these Ball joint tools you're welcome to borrow.

View attachment 217036
How does that work?
Yeah, if youre close then maybe I should try it


I dont have a sledgehammer, just some 12 or 14oz hammers ,I dont know exactly


Im not worried about the boots tearing, Im replacing the ball joints anyway, which is why Im trying to get them out.

Just frustrating, all this stuff
 
I dont have a sledgehammer, just some 12 or 14oz hammers ,I dont know exactly


Just frustrating, all this stuff
Heavier hammers for sure help.
Do you have a bottle torch, if so, heats helps a lot at the same areas to be whacked with a hammer
 
How does that work?
Yeah, if youre close then maybe I should try it


I dont have a sledgehammer, just some 12 or 14oz hammers ,I dont know exactly


Im not worried about the boots tearing, Im replacing the ball joints anyway, which is why Im trying to get them out.

Just frustrating, all this stuff
A real hammer is like $5 at harbor freight
 
Ok, so the ball joint has two bolts that you mount to the hub, but it also has a threaded rod/bolt in it, which has a castle nut.

Castle nut removed, two bolts to the hub removed
Threaded rod will not come out of the (think this is what it is) control arm
I have a ball join separator and all it's done is rip the boot and ooze grease

HELP!!!

WHat kind of vehicle? I don't think I saw it

Upper? Lower? both?

Pic please
 
How does that work?
Yeah, if youre close then maybe I should try it


I dont have a sledgehammer, just some 12 or 14oz hammers ,I dont know exactly


Im not worried about the boots tearing, Im replacing the ball joints anyway, which is why Im trying to get them out.

Just frustrating, all this stuff


Like this:



I'm in Farmington. I've also got a real hammer you can borrow.
 
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I'll see if I can get a hammer at my father's tonight.

I hate this project.

@backwoodsshooter 1991 MR2
Shocks were really blown, could move them by hand and one didnt want to rebound at all.
So at least I'll have a much better handling/riding car when it's all over. When.
 
Like this:



I'm in Farmington. I've also got a real hammer you can borrow.



Watching the video Im not sure that would work for me
here is a pic of what the ball joints look like on my car
It is oriented like it is pictured, attached to the control arm

beck-arnley-beckarnley-101-4025-large-1.jpg
 
I use the OTC lever tool and if that will not work I use a Pitman tool. You can rent them at the part stores.
The day before, I give them a good blast of Liquid Wrench or your favorite penetrating solution and then one and only one gentle wack with the hammer. I leave the nut on the stud so things do not go flying at my face.

You can try using a little heat from a propane torch on the stud to warm it up and that can help after it cools to use the tools, use 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket. I put some grease on the stud before installing the new joint.

otc1.jpg tool 1.jpg
 
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2 good sized hammers. Whack the shit out of each side of the control arm around the tapered stud at the same time. 2-3 whacks, then pop the top of the stud with one of the hammers. Rinse and repeat.
 
If you were closer we'd have this busted up in 5 mins. Properly applied heat, ball hammer, and a pickle fork in a good air hammer will make light work of that thing.
 
Ball joints can be a real pain. The right tools make all the difference. I did a set once with a picklefork and a sledgehammer. After that I decided its better to pay the man.
 
I'll see if I can get a hammer at my father's tonight.

I hate this project.

@backwoodsshooter 1991 MR2
Shocks were really blown, could move them by hand and one didnt want to rebound at all.
So at least I'll have a much better handling/riding car when it's all over. When.


Ah. Lest it’s not a Subaru. Like other as said, get the press tool. Rent it from the parts store if need be. Penetrating oil can help also
 
I'll try to get pics tonight

Got a sledge hammer from my father.
 
Ok here is what Im working with

62G6dif.jpg

wmPABba.jpg
 
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