Metal shavings in oil filter...concern?

Yeah, for break in it seems ok.
Change it out (obviously you did) and check it again next change.
Shouldnt have anything next time around
 
Nothing the folks here havenā€™t said. As soon as I saw the title my first question was, is this during the break-in period. Got my answer when I opened the thread.
 
I used to buy cars cheap to fix and then flip them, back in 1985 I got a Dodge Omni that would barely run.
Got it home and tried to change the oil, it was like sludge. I cut the filter open, EMPTY! Group 1 filter brand.
Makes me think the shop the guy used for oil changes was not on the up and up.
 
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For what it's worth when we first bought a Rhino 700 in 2009 I changes the oil at 10hrs to the factory recommended 10W30 then I switched to Rotella 5W40 synthetic and noticed a major difference in how the engine revved and shifted. Not sure if your Pioneer has a shared sump along with the transmission but if it does you may want to consider an HDEO like Rotella or maybe a full synthetic like Castrol / Mobil 1 OW40
 
For what it's worth when we first bought a Rhino 700 in 2009 I changes the oil at 10hrs to the factory recommended 10W30 then I switched to Rotella 5W40 synthetic and noticed a major difference in how the engine revved and shifted. Not sure if your Pioneer has a shared sump along with the transmission but if it does you may want to consider an HDEO like Rotella or maybe a full synthetic like Castrol / Mobil 1 OW40

I'll probably end up with mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 4T motorcycle oil at the 20 hr service.
I used it in my Rincon (same engine) with good results. I have heard good things about Rotella also. Probably any premium MA rated oil will work great.
The pioneer has an automotive style fluid coupling, shared sump, that uses oil rather than tranny fluid. No belt, no CVT.
Good oil is very important for it to shift smooth. It's worth paying for the good stuff
Letting the oil warm up at startup helps alot.
I plan to keep this machine for many years so I don't mind paying for premium oil.
 
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If the transmission and engine oil are the same, do not use an automotive oil that has the "Energy Conserving" label on it. They have friction modifiers that can cause clutch slippage. Use a motorcycle specific oil or a HDDEO that has the JASO MA ratings.
 
If the transmission and engine oil are the same, do not use an automotive oil that has the "Energy Conserving" label on it. They have friction modifiers that can cause clutch slippage. Use a motorcycle specific oil or a HDDEO that has the JASO MA ratings.
Rotella T and T6 meets the JASO MA spec. Many many people use it on all kinds of bikes quads and other stuff with a wet clutch. It's also not $12/at like boutique oils with a bike on the front. It also makes heavy equipment last for 25K miles lmao

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2334311
 
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Rotella T and T6 meets the JASO MA spec. Many many people use it on all kinds of bikes quads and other stuff with a wet clutch. It's also not $12/at like boutique oils with a bike on the front. It also makes heavy equipment last for 25K miles lmao

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2334311

Yep, I used Rotella T6 for years in my ST1300. I work for an oil distributor now and can buy the Shell Advance Ultra 4T for about the same price as a gallon of T6 from Walmart. I don't notice any difference between the two in my bike. I also have over 100k miles on the bike and the T6 didn't cause it to blow up!
 
Yep, I used Rotella T6 for years in my ST1300. I work for an oil distributor now and can buy the Shell Advance Ultra 4T for about the same price as a gallon of T6 from Walmart. I don't notice any difference between the two in my bike. I also have over 100k miles on the bike and the T6 didn't cause it to blow up!

I use it in the transmission of my 2-stroke KDX220 and it works awesome as a transmission oil alone. I was using Mobil 1 10W30 previously and it make the clutch a little notchy.
 
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