My Broken Field Run Along the Bourbon Trail

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Last week/weekend, a few buddies and myself headed out to Kentucky to tour some distilleries, taste some whiskey and try to find some rare bottles. I am sure others here have done something similar. I should have asked advice before we left, but we ended up successful just winging it. And for those interested in fine whiskey, I figured I would start a thread to share my experience and hear from others that have hit the trail before me.

We ended up visiting, tasting and/or touring Buffalo Trace, Old Forester, Jim Beam, Evan Williams, Heaven Hill, Michters, Woodford Reserve, Peerless, Angel's Envy and Whiskey Thief distilleries. All were somewhat interesting, however, most of the tours of the "big guys" are pretty duplicative: Good limestone water, local grains, terminology, mashbills, bourbon rules, how a column still works, barrel char effects, tasting and then exit through the gift shop. But I also have to admit that I did learn quite a bit during the trip. I gained a new respect for Michters, due to their investment in quality throughout their processes in order to ensure that their product is exceptional. I really enjoyed the restaurant at Jim Beam. I loved the tasting experience at Heaven Hill. I loved the bourbon salted chocolate covered Twinkies at Evan Williams and the salted bourbon caramel coated marshmallow at Old Forester.

But I have to say that the best experience we had by far was Whiskey Thief Distillery, and I highly recommend a visit to anybody that loves good whiskey experiences. The distillery itself is tiny. They only have about 1000 barrels currently aging in rickhouse/storage. The entire distillery itself is all contained in a big barn that sits out in the middle of a field past a cow pasture and feed barn at the end of a sketchy winding farm path.

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If you go on a Friday or Saturday afternoon, they have Adirondack chairs set out looking over the pastures, live music, a bar for cocktails and even a food truck for a bite to eat. Unlike the sterile mechanical tastings and tours of the big corporate distillers, Whiskey Thief is a wide open party. Everybody is mingling and having a good time. It is glorious.

The operation was previously known as Three Boys Farm Distillery, but the new owner (Walter) changed it back to its originally intended name "Whiskey Thief". It is named after the long copper instrument that you stick in the barrel to draw out tasting samples. In line with their name, they pull out 10 barrels and split them up into 2 tasting areas with 5 barrels each.

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None of the 10 barrels are the same mash bill or expression. If you buy a tasting, you get a small etched glencairn glass and 5 samples from whichever barrels you want to try. Fair warning if you ever go there for a tasting, you need a designated driver because the nature of a whiskey thief is NOT conducive to small pours for samples. This is the only distillery in the US, if not the world, that you taste their whiskey at full cask strength, straight from the barrel. Folks wander around to the tasting stations and choose which barrel they want to sample. The staff then use the copper whiskey thief in each barrel to pour you a long, neat pour straight from barrel of high proof whiskey. And if you find a barrel you really like (and you will - their whiskey is phenomenal), you grab an empty bottle (they have several types and sizes to chose from) and you can fill your own bottle from that barrel by hand using the whiskey thief. My buddy Chris let one of the staff fill his bottle, because he did not want to spill a lot and catch hell from us about it.

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But the funniest thing was how this all came about. We had no plan to visit this distillery. But the father of one of my son's hockey teammates had told me about it 2 years ago. He had met what turned out to be the PRIOR owner and they became friends. The prior owner sent him a bottle from a honey barrel, and he shared some with me at a tournament one time and it was fantastic. So I knew from his stories that it was near Frankfort. We were on our way back to Frankfort after touring Michters, and we had some time to kill before our dinner reservation. We decided to swing by Whiskey Thief on a whim. We got there about 30 minutes before it closed, and we missed the last "tour". We declined to buy the tasting, because we knew they were supposed to close in half an hour and we were heading to dinner shortly. But we were welcome to look and hang around. So we did, and I ended up talking to a tour operator and telling him about my buddy that knew the (what I thought to be the current) owner. I learned that the place had been sold, so I realized it might not be the same guy. About that time, a guy comes walking out of the office area, and the tour operator told me that was the owner, Walter. So I go up to Walter and introduce myself. I tell him the story about my friend that introduced me to their whiskey, and that I loved it. I also point out my buddies (also hockey dads) that were about 20 feet away and we chat about that for a minute. But it turns out that my friend met the OLD owner, not Walter. But Walter was very happy to hear that I liked their whiskey, so he tells me "You have GOT to try this barrel over here", and points me to one of the tasting stations. I tell him that I'd love to, but we did not actually book a tour or buy a tasting, that we just wanted to stop in and look around because we heard it was a great place. I told him that we were actually just kinda crashing the party. Walter looks at me, smiles and says "John, just because you drink MY whiskey, it does not mean that I have to charge you for it." And he turns and calls out to one of the staff and says "hey, get us some glasses over here!" I look over and my buddies, and they are walking over to see what is going on. I introduce them to Walter, and the girl comes back over with a box of tasting glasses. Walter hands each of use a glass, grabs one for himself and leads us over to this set of barrels. He then grabs the whiskey thief on barrel #1 and personally gives us each a pour. And not a small pour either. He pours himself a stout pour too, and we discuss the tasting notes and nature of the barrel as we do so. Then, we spent the next hour and a half drinking whiskey straight from the barrel with Walter matching us glass for glass. Despite the fact that it was past closing time, he even gave us our own private tour and explained some of their processes regarding their mash and some experimental mash bills. Luckily, one of our guys was not drinking much, so when we left, he could drive us to our dinner reservation safely. Come to find out, by Kentucky law, you can only have 5 samples at a commercial whiskey tasting. But if you are not at an official tasting, and you are just friends hanging out after closing and drinking with the owner of the distillery...

Eventually we had to go in order to meet our reservation, but I wish I'd stayed longer as hearing Walter talk about the distillery processes, the business and the culture was fascinating. I am glad that we did not set up some rigid schedule of tours because if we had, we would never have had the free time to stop by Whiskey Thief and we would have missed out on what turned out to be the best experience of the whole trip.
 
That’s incredible, sounds like an amazing experience! I’ve driven past the bourbon trail for work in the past but now I will have to make it a destination
 
We did the Bourbon Trail some years back. Learned a lot of history. When you taste so many different brands and blends back to back in a relatively short time period, even over 2-3 days, it's much easier to figure out what you like.

Heaven Hill is an amazing place. Is the tasting room still the circular room ( see pic below ) ?

You need to go back to see the Makers Mark Distillery.

That area of Kentucky is awesome, we really enjoyed our time there..



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Havent ever done it. Cant find a designated driver that will put up with a bunch of drunks. May have to look into a limo and driver type deal. Me and the misses got a private tour at a big name winery once. I cant remember the name right now. They had 3 tasting rooms. One for the public, one for VIP's and one for private events and Hi Rollers. We got the VIP tour and taste from an employee that was a friend of a friend and it was awesome. Especially access to the private stock. There was also Special Reserve and Family reserve and she couldnt even get us into that. We bought a case of the Private Stock Cab and it was fantastic. Spoiled me for life. And other than the case we bought, didnt cost a thing. Also made friends with a nice old lady working the tasting room at Cline Vineyards. She gave us the public tasting and took a shine to us for some reason and started pouring the Jacuzzi appelation and some other reserve zins. They were excellent. We bought a case of something. Again, other than the case of wine it didnt cost a thing. Good times!
 
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Heaven Hill is an amazing place. Is the tasting room still the circular room ( see pic below ) ?



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Nope. That space is now part of the gift shop, I believe. But there is an interesting fact that I learned about that room. Apparently, Heaven Hill is owned by the Shapiro family, which are Jewish. The architect who designed that space left the crossed ceiling beams exposed, and if you looked up and paid attention, they formed a Star of David. It was not really an advertised feature, but was done as a stylistic gift to the owners.

As to your other point, doing a lot of tastings in a short period of time really helped me hone my skills in separating and identifying more flavors than I could before.
 
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Havent ever done it. Cant find a designated driver that will put up with a bunch of drunks. May have to look into a limo and driver type deal. Me and the misses got a private tour at a big name winery once. I cant remember the name right now. They had 3 tasting rooms. One for the public, one for VIP's and one for private events and Hi Rollers. We got the VIP tour and taste from an employee that was a friend of a friend and it was awesome. Especially access to the private stock. There was also Special Reserve and Family reserve and she couldnt even get us into that. We bought a case of the Private Stock Cab and it was fantastic. Spoiled me for life. And other than the case we bought, didnt cost a thing. Also made friends with a nice old lady working the tasting room at Cline Vineyards. She gave us the public tasting and took a shine to us for some reason and started pouring the Jacuzzi appelation and some other reserve zins. They were excellent. We bought a case of something. Again, other than the case of wine it didnt cost a thing. Good times!
They have tour companies that will set up an itinerary and haul you around in air conditioned tour buses, vans and/or Suburbans. You can even bring a cooler and drink in some of those between stops. Plus, they get more access, I think, at the smaller stops. Whiskey Thief is not cheap by any means. It is like $32 for a tasting, plus whatever you buy (which is also very expensive). But, you are also getting access to an experience and product that no other distillery can or will supply. My only advice is that if you do plan to go to Whiskey Thief, try to go on Friday or Saturday afternoon when it is in full swing, with nothing scheduled afterward. That way, you can hang out and enjoy the full experience.
 
I used to live about 30 minutes E of Lexington, KY. While working at a USA base as a govt contractor that was a great place to launch for a few distilleries and some really neat State Parks on weekends. At the time the wife and I were riding one or 2 motorcycles most of the time and KY has some very nice backroads.
 
Now Buffalo Trace is a different animal altogether. They are the most popular girl at the dance, so to speak. And they know it. That said, they are a good tour if you can manage to find an open slot to book. We got lucky and were on the waitlist, and a spot opened up last minute. It is a nice and picturesque campus. Though, they are in the process of repainting the water tower:
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There is a ton to see:

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But the main reason folks go here is to try to snag some allocated bourbons. Each day, they drop one of four different allocated product: Weller Special Reserve, Eagle Rare, Blanton's Single Barrel or E.H. Taylor Small Batch. You never know which one it might be until the doors open. You can only buy one bottle of each per person every 90 days.

As you can imagine, there is a massive serpentine waiting line of folks waiting to hit the gift shop each day. At opening, that line is usually 2 people wide and about 500 yards long. It is also standing on blacktop in direct sunlight. So if you go, bring a hat, a folding stool and a big cold bottle of water because it is hot and crowded. On the bright side, once they open the doors, the lines move a lot faster than they do at an amusement park. But be aware, the line does not lead to the gift shop. It leads you to a check-in building where they scan your I.D. and give you an armband that authorizes you to purchase whatever allocated product that is being offered that day. This is how they ensure you cannot buy more than one bottle of any one allocated product per 90 days. They allow you to buy 2 bottles of Buffalo Trace every day, for $25 a bottle.

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Once you get your armband, you can stroll over to the gift shop. No need to run, they have PLENTY of product to grab:

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That is just one counter in the back. It was also stacked deep on wall displays, and they were wheeling out carts full to restock. The EHTSmB was $45 a bottle. Weller is $30 a bottle there on its days and Blantons is $65 when it gets put out. I forgot what they said they charged for Eagle Rare, but I think it was $50-ish. It was kinda funny seeing people panic walking/jogging to get there thinking it was gonna run out. But they usually have product available until at least noon. Pro tip: book an early tour and you can skip the line. Just go up to the front off to the side and let the staff know you have an early tour. They will then let you in first or work you into the line a decent amount of time before your tour.
 
I used to live about 30 minutes E of Lexington, KY. While working at a USA base as a govt contractor that was a great place to launch for a few distilleries and some really neat State Parks on weekends. At the time the wife and I were riding one or 2 motorcycles most of the time and KY has some very nice backroads.
The horse country around Woodford Reserve was jaw dropping. The pure scale of wealth it suggests is incredible.
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We and a some close friends are in the very beginning stages of p;annnig a trip to Kentucky and the bourbon trail. This is very helpful. Following this thread.
 
We and a some close friends are in the very beginning stages of p;annnig a trip to Kentucky and the bourbon trail. This is very helpful. Following this thread.
I think my advice would be to first find out what everybody's individual goals and expectations are. In our group, we all wanted to do distillery tours. But only 2 of us wanted to also spend time hitting liquor stores looking for rare, allocated or non-NC products. One wanted to hit the Louisville Slugger factory. And another really wanted to try to hit a fancy restaurant for every meal. We all had to compromise a little to bring it together. Once you know what everybody wants, you can formulate a plan to make it happen. Some of my tips and advice will vary somewhat based on what your groups goals are.

Also I would suggest going into the planning stage knowing that there is too much to do on one trip, so don't ruin it by booking too much every day, such that you are running around like chickens with your heads cut off and not enjoying the journey. We limited ourselves to a maximum of 3 tours per day, and generally only did 2 official tours per day, which left us plenty of time to just look around and deviate off the beaten path if opportunity knocked. If we had not done that, we would have missed out on Whiskey Thief, which ended up being our best experience by far.

Logistically, what we did first was make a list of each of our "must visit" locations. Then, we located them all on a map so we could group the different distillery locations geographically for efficiency. We grouped them essentially into 3 geographic categories: Louisville, Frankfort and Bardstown. We chose to stay in Frankfort over Louisville due to the proximity of the Buffalo Trace gift shop, but if you are not interested in grabbing Blantons or E.H. Taylor at MSRP, then that might not be most convenient to you.

Geographically, Peerless, Michters, Evan Williams, Old Forester and Angels Envy are all basically within a mile of each other along distillers row in downtown Louisville. You can park downtown and walk to all of them. The Louisville Slugger museum/tour/factory is right across the street from Michters, if you want to mix in something different.

By contrast, Heaven Hill, Lux Row, Willet and Jim Beam are in the Bardstown area, while Buffalo Trace, Whiskey Thief, Woodford Reserve, Four Roses and Castle and Key are in the Frankfort area. We tried to book distilleries in the same area together on the same days to cut down on travel time. We did Evan Williams, Old Forester, and Louisville Slugger on one day. We did Michters, Peerless and Angels Envy on another. We then did Heaven Hill, Willett (gift shop stop only) and Jim Beam on one day, and hit Whiskey Thief on the way back to Frankfort. Then we hit Buffalo Trace and Woodford separately in Frankfort.

And here is the rub. Some of these tours and tastings sell out weeks in advance. Especially Castle and Key (beautiful place) and Buffalo Trace, which can be very hard to book. So if BT or some other distillery is an absolute must for everybody, then book that first, then fill in the rest of the day around it.
 
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