Need a new heat pump / problem solved
- Thread starter Sleipnir
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I have two recent Carrier nat gas and A/C systems, not large house but two floors. Units made in Mexico with China motors. Ten yr warranty.
My a/c is seer 14 but you will save big money with your new heat pump at 19+ levels.
My a/c is seer 14 but you will save big money with your new heat pump at 19+ levels.
Based upon my industrial experience I agree York or Carrier not Trane.
If you can afford it a geothermal system will save you money over the long haul. No him/buzz of a condenser and hard to beat the LOW operating cost at something like 40 seer.
If you can afford it a geothermal system will save you money over the long haul. No him/buzz of a condenser and hard to beat the LOW operating cost at something like 40 seer.
I spent 35 years in the PM&E engineering, operations and maintenance arena. Always specd and bought Trane. Same for my home. Just replaced a 15yr old Trane HP and 33 yr old duct work with another Trane. The old trane HP was still running but the AHU and duct work had to go. It will take 20 to 30 yrs for the payback on a 18-20 seer unit and it wont last that long. I bought a 15seer. Puke Power rebate of $450. I like the outdoor units with the solid top so leaves and whatnot cant get in but it was a $1000 more and gave you another 1 seer so I didnt do that. 10 year parts warranty. 2 year labor warranty.
jjwestbrook
Happy to be here
Replacing ductwork as well ?
Wasting your money going higher than 16 SEER. New units will not last long enough to recoup the savings per year from 16 to 19. Trane units are far from what they once were and many dealers around my area have dumped them totally. For 2020 I would buy a Carrier product.
Take a serious look at Bosch or Mitsubishi’s normal air handler product as well. I sell and install all these brands mentioned and no others anymore.
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jjwestbrook
Happy to be here
What black gun said. Also your ductwork was sized for most likely a 10 seer unit and may not be enough to get the benefits of a higher seer rating
Speaking of duct work, how old is the house? If it’s like the one I bought. built in ~1971 it has crappy, leaky ducts and uses floor joists for return. I’m going to change that out. Also, flex duct has high loss. If you’re redoing it, consider rigid and seal it. Also consider your returns and where they are at for flow.
Details, man, details!! What'd you go with?
I've had extaordinarily bad performance out of 3 Maytag systems in the last 7 years (2 heat pumps, 1 fridge). Also mediocre service with a Goodman HP installation 18 mos ago; long-term performance remains to be seen.
I used to sell geothermal grout, and got hooked on the tech. Unfortunately, way to pricey for my means.
So I, for one, am curious as to your choices, reasons, and outcome.
From the research I did, it costs about double a standard split DX to install, but also lasts about twice as long in terms of equipment life. Consequently, if you can afford the installation the costs are a wash. What ends up happening is you get the energy savings. The effective SEER rating (EER as it is not seasonal) of the 3 ton unit we put in is 40 and the COP for heat mode is 7. When it was installed, I measured the supply and return from the loop (8 degree delta), multiplied it by the flow (fixed at 9gpm) and divided by 24. giving me exactly 3 tons of heat transfer. The unit was activated before the house was done to condition it for the hickory flooring and in the peak of summer the AC bill was about $65.
OP
Sleipnir
Not who you think I am
Since you asked. Got a few quotes. Did some reading. Listened to our service company. Went with York, 16 seer. Convinced that was enough. Dickered on the price and got what I feel is ok. Plus a $300.00 energy credit from Duke Energy. Installation on Monday.
The York system has a 10 year parts and labor warranty. It'll likely outlast me. The current system lasted 24 years.
The York system has a 10 year parts and labor warranty. It'll likely outlast me. The current system lasted 24 years.
As in mini split, or a "Direct Exchange" heat pump, aka refrigerant lines in the ground, eliminating the hdpe loop?
Sounds like a solid deal. That was essentially my approach on my remodel (not the maytag on spec builds before The Great Housing Debacle), when I wound up with the Goodman. So far, so good.
As in conventional heat pump with an outside condenser (evaporator) inside evaporator (condenser) where the heat is rejected to air.
Ah, exchanging BTUs directly with the air.
When I was selling grout, I found a niche market with DX systems (direct exchange with the ground), so I associate the term with geo. Geo DX is even more efficient, but some don't have confidence in the longevity of Cu or SS lines in the ground (a resolveable issue).