New to me Thompson Center Hawken Rifle 50 Cal.

[Papermaker]

Also new to black powder. Picked up this rifle on Tuesday. Took everything apart today and polished up the brass parts. Plan on working on the wood tomorrow while it is cold and icy outside. I was hoping some of you folks that have been shooting these types of rifles could give me some advice on my path forward.

What are the most basic things I need to buy, and what is the best source? Currently, I have the rifle only. It is equipped with a ramrod but I want to get a different rod with a T-handle. Again, T/C Hawken 50 cal. I only plan to shoot round balls, so I guess I need .490 balls and patches with bore butter? What type of ball starter? How about a powder measure? Black powder or pyrodex? Will most any nipple wrench work, or should I get a special one?

I have other questions, but will wait for you all to send me your thoughts. Thanks in advance.

 

[Red Marley]

If you can't find it locally, you can get pretty much everything you need here: https://www.trackofthewolf.com/ Best stuff I've found for cleaning is Oxyclean. Put a little in a jug of HOT water and stick the barrel in (removed from the stock, with nipple removed); put a patch on a cleaning jag and work it like a bicycle pump. You want the water as hot as you can stand it so the barrel will dry quickly. I finish up with Ballistol.

 

[Dave951]

What are the most basic things I need to buy, and what is the best source? Currently, I have the rifle only. It is equipped with a ramrod but I want to get a different rod with a T-handle.

https://www.sportsmansguide.com/pro...MIxffqnauN5wIVCZyzCh3t3QNaEAQYASABEgKuvfD_BwE

This one one is great. I like the round top because the T handle is easy to induce torque Lots of others out there similar. Make a choice.

I only plan to shoot round balls, so I guess I need .490 balls and patches with bore butter? What type of ball starter?.

Yes on the round ball caliber. You'll also need patches or patch material. I use pillow ticking from Wally world soaked in bullet lube I use for my minie ball rounds. Bore Butter is ok, but it's far less expensive to play with making your own. Go over to https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ Lots of us smoke pole types over there. Ball starter is necessary. If you're the least bit handy, you can make one. You'll also probably want a ball puller jag and a worm jag for getting stuck patches out. Track has them.

How about a powder measure? Black powder or pyrodex? Will most any nipple wrench work, or should I get a special one?

Powder measure- Track of the Wolf has a ton of stuff for shooting traditional style black powder. Choose a measure that you like and observe safety in handling powder.

Nipple wrench- depends on what nipple is on the gun. I have one gun that is set up with the "standard" nipple that takes #10 percussion caps, my other "civilian" gun has been modified to take the same caps as all my military style guns. Much easier to handle and waaay hotter and stronger cap.

Powder- BLACK POWDER. Pyrodex in a pinch but know this, it's faaar more corrosive and abrasive than the holy black. Suck it up and get a good quality powder from the start and eliminate a source of problems. My favorite source-
https://blackpowderva.com/
Like me, he's also a member of the North South Skirmish Association and stocks far more black powder stuff that most. For powder, get 3f. Black powder varies in type and quality and the price reflects that. Absolute best for target and competition shooting or when shots count is Swiss, hands down, no discussion. Next on the chart is Goex Old Eynsford. It's a very close second to Swiss. Next is standard Goex and Schutzen. All of them will work, the difference in velocity consistency and fouling control.

 

[Papermaker]

Thanks for the info so far @Red Marley and @Dave951. I spent some time on Track last night. Very nice website with a lot of information on how to use their products. Bought some stuff too. Also ordered a T/C accessory kit from Amazon that had several jags, swabs and brushes, bullet puller and patch puller, etc ($12.99).

 

[Dave951]

One further comment, it IS entirely possible to blow up a black powder firearm. Don't get crazy with the amount of powder or mix any smokeless into it. Even if the max charge is listed as 90gr 2f, remember that 3f is more "energetic" per grain so when going to 3f, back down by at least 10%. I'd bet your best accuracy will be in the 60-70% of rated maximum. Brands of black powder also vary in that respect. Swiss is the most powerful and consistent/grain followed closely by Goex Old Eynsford. Standard Goex and Schutzen are next and I wouldn't bother with the rest. What I've found with Swiss and Old E are they require less powder in the charge to achieve the same results, so even though they cost more, you use less per shot. Coupled with that, Swiss has the least issue with fouling.

Also make sure the ball is firmly seated on the charge. Don't need to slap the ramrod down on it like a pile driver. That can deform the ball and also screw with accuracy.

Welcome to the addiction, while I like modern stuff, the old smoke poles are a completely different type of rush.

 

[Papermaker]

Well. I cleaned up the Hawken .50 cal nicely. I will give you the condensed version. After cleaning everything, I placed a cap on the nipple and fired in the direction of a leaf that I had placed on a board. The leaf moved slightly. Then I loaded a light charge (40 grains) with a patch and ball on top. Then I placed a cap on the nipple and................crack. Nothing. So my first attempt at a shot, and I had to remove a stuck patch and ball. Fortunately, after 3 attempts, I was lucky enough to retrieve the lead Hornady .490 ball. At this point I told myself that I would not put another ball down the barrel until I got the powder to ignite. After numerous attempts to get the powder to ignite I determined that the nipple was the problem area. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit to open the bottom side of the nipple to the flash tube. When I pointed the muzzle at a leaf and pulled the trigger, the leaf moved further. After this I was able to establish ignition each and every attempt to fire the rifle. I added powder and set off a percussion cap several times successfully. Then I added powder, patch and ball and everything worked as expected, ball down range. I have since ordered a new nipple form Amazon to help in my troubleshooting. Hopefully things will work as well tomorrow when I try again.

 

[Windini]

Well. I cleaned up the Hawken .50 cal nicely. I will give you the condensed version. After cleaning everything, I placed a cap on the nipple and fired in the direction of a leaf that I had placed on a board. The leaf moved slightly. Then I loaded a light charge (40 grains) with a patch and ball on top. Then I placed a cap on the nipple and................crack. Nothing. So my first attempt at a shot, and I had to remove a stuck patch and ball. Fortunately, after 3 attempts, I was lucky enough to retrieve the lead Hornady .490 ball. At this point I told myself that I would not put another ball down the barrel until I got the powder to ignite. After numerous attempts to get the powder to ignite I determined that the nipple was the problem area. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit to open the bottom side of the nipple to the flash tube. When I pointed the muzzle at a leaf and pulled the trigger, the leaf moved further. After this I was able to establish ignition each and every attempt to fire the rifle. I added powder and set off a percussion cap several times successfully. Then I added powder, patch and ball and everything worked as expected, ball down range. I have since ordered a new nipple form Amazon to help in my troubleshooting. Hopefully things will work as well tomorrow when I try again.

Nice systematic approach -- well, after the first attempt, anyway! Good job figuring it out. You'll enjoy BP shooting. It's a great tribute to the history of shootin'!

 

[Dave951]

Well. I cleaned up the Hawken .50 cal nicely. I will give you the condensed version. After cleaning everything, I placed a cap on the nipple and fired in the direction of a leaf that I had placed on a board. The leaf moved slightly. Then I loaded a light charge (40 grains) with a patch and ball on top. Then I placed a cap on the nipple and................crack. Nothing. So my first attempt at a shot, and I had to remove a stuck patch and ball. Fortunately, after 3 attempts, I was lucky enough to retrieve the lead Hornady .490 ball. At this point I told myself that I would not put another ball down the barrel until I got the powder to ignite. After numerous attempts to get the powder to ignite I determined that the nipple was the problem area. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit to open the bottom side of the nipple to the flash tube. When I pointed the muzzle at a leaf and pulled the trigger, the leaf moved further. After this I was able to establish ignition each and every attempt to fire the rifle. I added powder and set off a percussion cap several times successfully. Then I added powder, patch and ball and everything worked as expected, ball down range. I have since ordered a new nipple form Amazon to help in my troubleshooting. Hopefully things will work as well tomorrow when I try again.

You may also have a carbon build up in the flash channel. Use a piece of music wire to gently clean it out. One other thing, most of the BP subs are harder to ignite than real black. If you can swing it, I'd recommend going to a musket nipple from Track of the Wolf.

 

[Papermaker]

You may also have a carbon build up in the flash channel. Use a piece of music wire to gently clean it out. One other thing, most of the BP subs are harder to ignite than real black. If you can swing it, I'd recommend going to a musket nipple from Track of the Wolf.

When I was cleaning the barrel inside (with the nipple removed) and with the barrel in a bucket of hot water using the ramrod as a pump to pull hot water into and out of the barrel, the flow through the flash channel was very good.

Once I enlarged the nipple outlet by some degree, everything started working. So there was definitely something wrong with the nipple / flash channel area. At some point I want to soak the breech end of the barrel and the nipple in some type of carbon remover.

What is the difference between a standard T/C nipple and the musket nipple that you mention? Thanks for your comments.

 

[Dave951]

Size of the cap. Musket caps are larger, easier to handle and far more energetic than No 10&11.