Omega baffle stack / tube separation. DIY or warranty repair?

Tim

Tim

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At the range yesterday, when removing the Omega from my AR (ASR mount), the baffle stack broke loose and separated from the core. It appears that the baffle stack is simply secured using Rocksett or similar.

Would you DIY this fix or send back for warranty? Can has been in my possession for ~ 2 months and less than 500 rounds.

FWIW...this can made an 11.5" AR sound like a supersonic .22lr.

not my pic, but same issue

CfKrW6W.jpg
 
Jesus. I don’t understand why a couple tack welds weren’t used
 
DIY. Degrease and Rocksett.

The only real purpose of that tube is to hold the engraving to allow for easy repair.
 
11B CIB said:
It’s not hard to pop two or three tack welds and you wouldnt have cans degloving in the field needing warranty work
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Isn't the outer sleeve Ti and the stack stellite (steel) and mount stainless? I'm not a welder but I'm under the impression that it is pretty tricky to get Ti to weld to steel.
 
tod0987 said:
Isn't the outer sleeve Ti and the stack stellite (steel) and mount stainless? I'm not a welder but I'm under the impression that it is pretty tricky to get Ti to weld to steel.
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Competitors don’t need to glue the tubes and still provide identical weight savings. The point is there are other solutions. For something that costs well over a thousand dollars in the can and mounts, this is surprising
 
Tim, PSA silencers just aren't very well built and prone to trouble. Even so, if you would have used FGMM instead of handloads you probably wouldn't have had any issues.
 
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John said:
Tim, PSA silencers just aren't very well built and prone to trouble. Even so, if you would have used FGMM instead of handloads you probably wouldn't have had any issues.
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heheheheeee........I guess you figured out what gets to me!

217iyo.jpg
 
Sorry for discussing what happened. It was related, not an entire change in subject :rolleyes:
 
Haha!! I got a good laugh out of the other thread and couldn't resist stirring the pot here a bit!
 
Gear Head said:
Found this. Start at like 3:30. He says the SiCo basically said it's not an issue and to red loctite it and screw it back on

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Yup. I heard back from their CS and that's pretty much what they said.
 
Gear Head said:
How do you like it overall? I'm planning on going to get one Friday.
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Love. It's a world better than the AAC 762-SD I have.

The baffle stack issue is a bit irritating, but I cannot complain about performance.
 
Good to hear. I don't own a can yet but I have a dead air mask in jail. Figured I may as well start the process for a 30 cal can as well.
 
@Tim There are two types of red loctite; you need Red 272; it’s got a melt temp of 450* vs the 300* of Red 271.......272 will hold up better but the suppressor bodies get way hotter than the threads holding on a muzzle device which 272 works great for. I’d keep an eye on the tube and make sure it’s not slipping or anything after a prolonged firing schedule
 
11B CIB said:
@Tim There are two types of red loctite; you need Red 272; it’s got a melt temp of 450* vs the 300* of Red 271.......272 will hold up better but the suppressor bodies get way hotter than the threads holding on a muzzle device which 272 works great for. I’d keep an eye on the tube and make sure it’s not slipping or anything after a prolonged firing schedule
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I was planning on using Rocksett. I have it in hand and that's what SilencerCo CS recommended.
 
Tim said:
I was planning on using Rocksett. I have it in hand and that's what SilencerCo CS recommended.
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Misunderstood from your last post. Sorry


I hope Rocksett works for you. But seeing online all the Omega tubes that have separated from the baffles has really put me off the design
 
11B CIB said:
I hope Rocksett works for you. But seeing online all the Omega tubes that have separated from the baffles has really put me off the design
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It's such a small percentage, for a can that is an amazing performer, and the fix is so simple...that I wouldn't let it sway anybody from buying one.
 
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