Opinions needed with shotgun stock repair.

dbarale

dbarale

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I recently bought a Norinco 1897 for no good reason other than I like shotguns and I always thought they looked cool.
The gun is in really good shape other than being a Norinco (not the most refined). However the stock was a disaster. It was painted turd brown over some pretty bad scratches, and had a gouge through the turd brown paint:

1276C27E-660B-4C21-84FC-A1F887F16AE1.jpeg6BB1E752-4C85-4964-BE95-5498DEAD0718.jpeg581630DF-E158-4D98-B82B-70FE446DD4AE.jpeg
 
Interestingly enough, there was a nicer finish under the brown paint?

4A2C433B-E629-4FA9-8C21-9A78F487132F.jpegA4621B9F-E92B-4559-845F-73FE2B756AE4.jpeg

Because of the big gouge I still had to remove that too, after a bit of sanding and steaming, it looks better:

852B9277-7ACD-40E1-A9A6-FC372DD855B4.jpeg

(that was pre-steaming)

The biggest problem is the damage around the sling stud:

6369FF62-136A-4C05-80F0-55DB466D89A4.jpeg

The easy fix is to recess a big blued washer. But I don’t need/want the stud, so I’m not sure I want to do that.
My second idea is to drill bigger and insert a piece of dowel of the right size and color. Probably maple (?) and it would have to be quite big, maybe 3/8 or 1/2”.
The third and most stupidest option is to insert a brass “nail” and contour it to match the stock. I can turn it on the lathe and control the size. It could look cool on such an old design shotgun, I think.

What do you guys say?
 
If the hole is already there get a metal threaded insert like ikea uses to put furniture together. You will clean up the damage there and retain a spot for a sling for future use
 
I'll find some pics if you are unsure of what I am trying to describe
 
Nice job on the stock! Any of the options you mention would work (as would inletting a sling swivel). I’d choose the one you’re most comfortable with. If I could get a nice wood dowel of suitable wood, and size it for a Forstner bit, that’s probably the route I would take.
 
Last edited:
heavydoc said:
I'll find some pics if you are unsure of what I am trying to describe
Click to expand...

I think I can picture it. Let me see if I can find one that fits.


ronn47 said:
@dbarale
Inlet one of these.

www.gunpartscorp.com

Butt Swivel, New Unissued SPRINGFIELD 1903A3, 1903A4 U.S. MILITARY

Butt Swivel, New Unissued SPRINGFIELD 1903A3, 1903A4 U.S. MILITARY
www.gunpartscorp.com www.gunpartscorp.com
Click to expand...

That’s a good idea. I would probably still use a dowel to plug the hole first but it wouldn’t have to be as big.
 
i like @heavydoc 's idea of the threaded insert if the size is right. you can file the insert to match the stock contour and hide the drive slot after it's in.

If you go the wood plug route, just remember the exposed end grain of a dowel will absorb whatever finish you use (esp. stain) and could stand out like a sore thumb. And it won't show till it's too late.

You could find a tapered plug cutter & make a "side grain" plug, but you won't get as much depth/ length, so easy on the forstner bit is a good rule.

Last, that doesn't look like maple to me. It has a tropical hardwood porosity to it that looks like a mahogany species (think phillipine, not honduras). The grain - not the color - is similar to walnut.

All free advice (worth what ya pay for it!) aside, it looks a lot better than it did! Eager to see the finished restoration. And range report.
 
Windini said:
i like @heavydoc 's idea of the threaded insert if the size is right. you can file the insert to match the stock contour and hide the drive slot after it's in.

If you go the wood plug route, just remember the exposed end grain of a dowel will absorb whatever finish you use (esp. stain) and could stand out like a sore thumb. And it won't show till it's too late.

You could find a tapered plug cutter & make a "side grain" plug, but you won't get as much depth/ length, so easy on the forstner bit is a good rule.

Last, that doesn't look like maple to me. It has a tropical hardwood porosity to it that looks like a mahogany species (think phillipine, not honduras). The grain - not the color - is similar to walnut.

All free advice (worth what ya pay for it!) aside, it looks a lot better than it did! Eager to see the finished restoration. And range report.
Click to expand...
Thanks. My knowledge of wood is limited to pine and not-pine…
I was concerned about the plug thing and I was wondering if I should make it completely stand out (hence the brass idea) instead of trying to blend it in poorly.
 
Windini said:
i like @heavydoc 's idea of the threaded insert if the size is right. you can file the insert to match the stock contour and hide the drive slot after it's in.

If you go the wood plug route, just remember the exposed end grain of a dowel will absorb whatever finish you use (esp. stain) and could stand out like a sore thumb. And it won't show till it's too late.

You could find a tapered plug cutter & make a "side grain" plug, but you won't get as much depth/ length, so easy on the forstner bit is a good rule.

Last, that doesn't look like maple to me. It has a tropical hardwood porosity to it that looks like a mahogany species (think phillipine, not honduras). The grain - not the color - is similar to walnut.

All free advice (worth what ya pay for it!) aside, it looks a lot better than it did! Eager to see the finished restoration. And range report.
Click to expand...
Would I be better off staining the stock, then trying to find a matching dowel and fitting it before the final finish?
 
dbarale said:
Would I be better off staining the stock, then trying to find a matching dowel and fitting it before the final finish?
Click to expand...

That's a fine idea! Similar to matching wood putty filler to the stained wood as opposed to hoping two different materials take the stain the same way.

Tip: it helps to seal the surrounding wood before gluing (stain/finish or temp. wax), and don't try to wipe away any squeeze out. Let it bead up on the finished surface & harden, then it can be snapped or cut off at the base when dry. Wiping = smearing over a porous surface, which will seal that area and interfere with staining.
 
Looks fine to me! Nice redo for a guy whose knowledge of wood is "limited"!
 
Looking great! Go easy on the BLO; fwiw, I recently redid a ML pistol stock and either didn't wipe away enough of the excess or went 1 to 2 coats too far (7 total). I let it cure for a month and not only did it not get any prettier after #4, it was also still lightly tacky. Not so much that it'll interfere with use, but suboptimal from a tactile perspective.
 
dbarale said:
Interestingly enough, there was a nicer finish under the brown paint?

View attachment 588802View attachment 588803

Because of the big gouge I still had to remove that too, after a bit of sanding and steaming, it looks better:

View attachment 588805

(that was pre-steaming)

The biggest problem is the damage around the sling stud:

View attachment 588806

The easy fix is to recess a big blued washer. But I don’t need/want the stud, so I’m not sure I want to do that.
My second idea is to drill bigger and insert a piece of dowel of the right size and color. Probably maple (?) and it would have to be quite big, maybe 3/8 or 1/2”.
The third and most stupidest option is to insert a brass “nail” and contour it to match the stock. I can turn it on the lathe and control the size. It could look cool on such an old design shotgun, I think.

What do you guys say?
Click to expand...

Nice stock...

Believe you got yourself walnut, there.
 
Dern,, I didn't see this thread until today. I got one of those guns long ago, for SASS shooting. It too had a crappy stock. And the stock developed a crack. I had Norinco replace it,, for free.
 
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