Opinions on a 2008 F350 with the 6.4 diesel

Sneakymedic

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Thinking about trading my 04' F250 V10 (132K) in on a '08 dually F350 (134K) . I know all the hub bub about the 6.0, but what about the 6.4? I have a friend that is an old Ford Tech that described that motor as a "throwaway" and probably not a good choice, since it was the first year of the motor...etc.

What say the group?
 
Hell to the no. Run away from the 6.4 unless you're independently wealthy.

That V10 will last forever if maintained
why day gotta make it so purty den?

What you said, is exactly what my friend said....something about hydrolock....warped heads, new motor....eeeek
 
why day gotta make it so purty den?

What you said, is exactly what my friend said....something about hydrolock....warped heads, new motor....eeeek

I'd look for a 2013 and up 6.7 if you need (want :) ) a newer truck. Otherwise that V10 is an excellent motor. Not quite thg he grunt of a diesel, but it doesn't have the maintenance costs either.
 
I know all the hub bub about the 6.0, but what about the 6.4?


The way I understand it, the 6.0 has some well known, predictable and fixable problems (head bolts, EGR valve and cooler, etc). For a few thousand dollars you can transofrm a 6.0 into something as reliable as the 7.3 was when it left the factory.
The 6.4 is a complete dumpster fire of wildly unpredictable and possibly unfixable problems.
 
Find the fastest way from it. Be it under,over or around

I have an early 11 6.7 with 170k. Never had an issue. Brakes and batteries but I do service at 5k.
 
The way I understand it, the 6.0 has some well known, predictable and fixable problems (head bolts, EGR valve and cooler, etc). For a few thousand dollars you can transofrm a 6.0 into something as reliable as the 7.3 was when it left the factory.
The 6.4 is a complete dumpster fire of wildly unpredictable and possibly unfixable problems.


This exactly, the 6.0 issues have been identified and fixed. It's a pretty dam reliable motor once its shortcomings are addressed.
 
I’m very familiar with the 6.4

The good - it can produce more power per cubic inch than almost any other PSD. With a tuner it can easily produce over 1000 ft pounds of torque.

The bad - you have to spend a lot of $ in order to bullet-proof it. Here is a list off of the top of my head to changes that need to be made:

1 - new heads. OEM heads will crack. You can’t buy a reman long-block from Ford because they don’t have core’s with any good heads. There is a company in GA that sells aftermarket heads.
2 - head studs
3 - o-ring heads
4 - delipped pistons. OEM pistons tend to burn through the lips, putting a hole into the piston.
5 - new roller camshaft with more gentle “ramp” from base circle to valve lift. OEM cam’s set the valves down and pick them up too aggressively and will wear out the valve train every 100K miles or so.
6 - aftermarket radiator (Misimoto). The factory ones with the crimped plastic tanks will leak.
7 - get rid of the EGR coolers, DPF and regeneration cycle. Ford opted to use the cylinder injectors to inject diesel fuel during the exhaust cycle in order to provide fuel to the DPF incinerator process. This will wash the oil off of the cylinder walls, creating accelerated wear and ultimately cracking piston skirts. The EGR coolers will crack, filling the cylinders with coolant and causing a hydro-lock.

Figure on paying a good, aftermarket diesel high performance shop 12K or so to rebuild the engine to the above specs (or get a shortblock from Asheville Engine and have it built). Once you do this they can be bomproof and good for a few hundred thousand miles.
 
I’m very familiar with the 6.4

The good - it can produce more power per cubic inch than almost any other PSD. With a tuner it can easily produce over 1000 ft pounds of torque.

The bad - you have to spend a lot of $ in order to bullet-proof it. Here is a list off of the top of my head to changes that need to be made:

1 - new heads. OEM heads will crack. You can’t buy a reman long-block from Ford because they don’t have core’s with any good heads. There is a company in GA that sells aftermarket heads.
2 - head studs
3 - o-ring heads
4 - delipped pistons. OEM pistons tend to burn through the lips, putting a hole into the piston.
5 - new roller camshaft with more gentle “ramp” from base circle to valve lift. OEM cam’s set the valves down and pick them up too aggressively and will wear out the valve train every 100K miles or so.
6 - aftermarket radiator (Misimoto). The factory ones with the crimped plastic tanks will leak.
7 - get rid of the EGR coolers, DPF and regeneration cycle. Ford opted to use the cylinder injectors to inject diesel fuel during the exhaust cycle in order to provide fuel to the DPF incinerator process. This will wash the oil off of the cylinder walls, creating accelerated wear and ultimately cracking piston skirts. The EGR coolers will crack, filling the cylinders with coolant and causing a hydro-lock.

Figure on paying a good, aftermarket diesel high performance shop 12K or so to rebuild the engine to the above specs (or get a shortblock from Asheville Engine and have it built). Once you do this they can be bomproof and good for a few hundred thousand miles.
egads. Im not all about doing all that. I wanna pull my tractor. Thats it. LOL. I bet that thing is a beast after all of that…
 
I'd look for a 2013 and up 6.7 if you need (want :) ) a newer truck. Otherwise that V10 is an excellent motor. Not quite thg he grunt of a diesel, but it doesn't have the maintenance costs either.
So my V10 is a super clean truck. I mean SUPER NICE. But, its an extended cab. And Id like to have the diesel/ Crew cab. . I travel up the 77 /81 corridor a bunch hauling 8K worth of tractors several times a year.
 
So my V10 is a super clean truck. I mean SUPER NICE. But, its an extended cab. And Id like to have the diesel/ Crew cab. . I travel up the 77 /81 corridor a bunch hauling 8K worth of tractors several times a year.

Just avoid that 6.4 at all cost. I'd sell yours privately, and either look for a clean 7.3 if you dont want to bother with bulletproofing a 6.0, or shop around for a deal on a 6.7
 
egads. Im not all about doing all that. I wanna pull my tractor. Thats it. LOL. I bet that thing is a beast after all of that…
And that's just the stuff that will probably go wrong. No way of knowing what else might go sideways. You'll be into a 6.4 for the cost of another truck trying to stay ahead of possible failures and then get blindsided by something you weren't anticipating.

Find a truck with a 6.0 or spend more for a 6.7.

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6.7s high pressure fuel pumps like to come apart and contaminate the whole fuel system. We run a fleet of them and have had several problems.
ETA run like hell from a 6.4. If you want something to last.... buy a Cummins. :D
 
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You wanted a tech to comment so hear lt is. Do what every one before me said and stay away like it had the plague. Unless you want to help buy my next few guns and then the ones I want a few months after those. Those motors are JUNK!
 
Bro you need to find an 06’ Cummins
Seriously one of the best of the best. You can EFI live it nothing like the pulling power of the Cummins easier and cheaper to work on also
I had a neighbor with a really nice Dodge Cummins, about that year, I know we had a 30 foot trailer that we put 22 round bales on and he moved that. I would like to find one like that. They're just really hard to find, that haven't been driven to death.
 
6.4's are either good or horrible... Rarely great.

I got 2 of the horribles in 2008...
-1 got new rings & bearings when HP fuel pump washed all the oil out. Later, short block was replaced when it happened again.
-other had Soo many problems with intercoolers and emission system. Truck was unusable as a tow vehicle. Over 80days in the shop in 2 years!

Find a 6.7!
 
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Agreed stay away from that motor.

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Personally, if I switched brands, I'd be looking for a 12v Cummins. Those things are like ford 300 straight 6's, they last until the end of time
I did tell the sales guy I wasn't interested. I will just keep looking. I found a 2012 in SC off Craigslist thst needed some front end body work, I'll probably pass on that too, although a nice truck.
 
I did tell the sales guy I wasn't interested. I will just keep looking. I found a 2012 in SC off Craigslist thst needed some front end body work, I'll probably pass on that too, although a nice truck.

too many decent trucks out there to bother with something thats been wrecked. and as a public service announcement, stay away from kernersville dodge...:)
 
I will say I've got a 2004 6.0 that we bought with 10k miles on it. We had minimal issues with it (other than the EGR valve constantly getting carboned up), until it had about 75k miles. Then the turbo coked up. Having read all the horror stories about the 6.0 issues, I decided to cut it off at the pass and had it bulletproofed; EGR delete, oil cooler, tuner, head studs, o ringed, tuner, upgraded the turbo, etc. It's a freakin beast now.
 
I'm trying to get my cousin to sell me his fully loaded quad cab, 4x4, 2005 F250 diesel that only has 15K miles. He has a loaded 1994 F150 4x4 extended cab with only 2K miles in the shed also.
 
I'm trying to get my cousin to sell me his fully loaded quad cab, 4x4, 2005 F250 diesel that only has 15K miles. He has a loaded 1994 F150 4x4 extended cab with only 2K miles in the shed also.
Nice. Pass the deal along for whichever one you leave.

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