PIA GMC starter

beamernc

beamernc

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Does anyone have any secrets that they would share on how to get the Pain In the Ass starter out of a 2002 GMC Sierra with the 5.3L? I got the 2 starter bolts out and removed the bell housing cover screw and worked for over an hour this afternoon trying to get the starter out. I got it back as far as it will go and it still needs about 3/8" to clear the bell housing. Multiple busted knuckles and both arms scraped up did not make for a good afternoon.

If I can figure out what else to do, I'll attempt it again this weekend.
 
Have not personally done one but seem to recall it helps to remove the battery cables from the starter and that gives you just enough to push the starter towards the front and tip the rear of the starter up and nose it down.....once the flywheel shield comes out it's all over!
 
Mike79;n72278 said:
Have not personally done one but seem to recall it helps to remove the battery cables from the starter and that gives you just enough to push the starter towards the front and tip the rear of the starter up and nose it down.....once the flywheel shield comes out it's all over!
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If I remember right, the last Chevy starter I did was like that. You have to hold your mouth just right and get the back of the starter up enough for the nose of the starter to drop out. Not straight back it had to go more up than back.
 
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The heat shield has to come off the starter followed by the cables. The next step is to remove the bell housing dust shield some trucks use 1 bolt others use 2 deponds on model. Remove the 2 main mounting bolts and slide the starter towards the front of the truck untill the nose clears the bell housing and lower the starter towards the grounb nose first. I did not see mention in your post of removing the heat shield, it simply pulls off towards the frame rail. It is held on by spring tension. The heat shield and cables must beromved before the starter will come out. PM me your email address if you are still having problems and I can send you detailed instructions with pics. Oh I almost forgot there is an electrial connector on the side of the oil pan that must be unpluged on some also.
 
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Short Fuse;n72465 said:
The heat shield has to come off the starter followed by the cables. The next step is to remove the bell housing dust shield some trucks use 1 bolt others use 2 deponds on model. Remove the 2 main mounting bolts and slide the starter towards the front of the truck untill the nose clears the bell housing and lower the starter towards the grounb nose first. I did not see mention in your post of removing the heat shield, it simply pulls off towards the frame rail. It is held on by spring tension. The heat shield and cables must beromved before the starter will come out. PM me your email address if you are still having problems and I can send you detailed instructions with pics. Oh I almost forgot there is an electrial connector on the side of the oil pan that must be unpluged on some also.
Click to expand...

The bell housing cover goes all the way around the end of the starter and will not come off until it clears the bell housing. I did get the heat shield off before trying to get it out. There is no way to access the cables until the end is dropped down. The oil level sensor wire is not in the way.

I kept looking on line for tips and found a couple. One is to flex the dipstick tube forward and tie it in place to give a little more room and the other was that the cable from the battery is clipped to the frame and by popping the clip out it also allows it to move more.

I'll give it a try again this weekend if it is not raining as I'm doing this outside.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
You can access the wires from the wheel well. You might have to jack it up a little to clear the tire. I am not used to doing these on the ground but on a lift. So I am sure it is a little more difficult on your back.
 
Mike, my son was home a weeks ago and between the 2 of us we were able to get the old starter out and the new one put in. I put in a new Bosch starter with lifetime warranty and it also came with a 24 month roadside assistance plan. Had to replace a section of the solenoid wire also as it had gotten really hot.

I hope to never have to do that again. My knuckles and wrist are just now healed up.
 
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