Pietta single action replica - not cocking

NCLivingBrit

Well-Known Member
2A Bourbon Hound 2024
2A Bourbon Hound OG
Supporting Member
Multi-Factor Enabled
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
22,166
Location
Reidsville NC
Rating - 100%
69   0   0
I have a Colt 1851 replica by Pietta and the last time I pulled it out to fondle it, I noticed the trigger wasn't moving properly when the hammer was cocked back and something isn't engaging inside, since it won't stay cocked when you let go of the hammer.

I am not up on old wheelguns, anyone got any ideas?
 
My brother had one that gave him the same problem.
Seems like he had to replace the hammer and maybe a part called a hand?
I'm not really up on them either.
 
Here is a vid on disassembly and cleaning. My limited experience with BP revolvers has taught me that when you think youve cleaned it, clean in again. The priming compound from the caps get into the action and crude it up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-2B8ioQ2N0
 
Thing is, I've never shot it. I'll pull it apart one more time though.
 
There are three things that could cause the problem. Place the gun in the strong hand and cock it as you hold the trigger forward with a thumb or finger. If it will stay cocked, I would say the trigger/bolt spring is broke. If it does not stay cocked, the other tip of the trigger is the sear and it may be broke.
When you cock the gun and slowly let the hammer down is there a catch felt?
The other possibility is the sear notch in the hammer is broken. Either way, you should feel something when lowering the hammer.

You have chosen to not list any information (pet peeve) so I cannot suggest a path of action unless you can dis-assemble the gun yourself.

Look at #25, #29, #5

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufac...volvers-43419/1851NavyFFrame-36122.htm?page=2
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Red Cent;n17598 said:
There are three things that could cause the problem. Place the gun in the strong hand and cock it as you hold the trigger forward with a thumb or finger. If it will stay cocked, I would say the trigger/bolt spring is broke. If it does not stay cocked, the other tip of the trigger is the sear and it may be broke.
When you cock the gun and slowly let the hammer down is there a catch felt?
The other possibility is the sear notch in the hammer is broken. Either way, you should feel something when lowering the hammer.

You have chosen to not list any information (pet peeve) so I cannot suggest a path of action unless you can dis-assemble the gun yourself.

Look at #25, #29, #5

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufac...volvers-43419/1851NavyFFrame-36122.htm?page=2

Don't have a lot of information, I haven't pulled the side plate off due to a fear of ending up with a paperweight.

I may have to do so now I have some idea what may be busted.
 
Red Cent;n17743 said:
There is not a side plate. Ain't no 'Smith.
Have you tried the "hold the trigger forward as you cock it" suggestion?
You must remove the grips and grip frame to get to the innards.

If you push the trigger forward when you cock it will mostly work, but it feels weird. Spongy almost.

I'm living in digs right now so I have to hit the storage unit for tools before I can try to open her up, thanks for the info!
 
cold1;n16231 said:
Here is a vid on disassembly and cleaning. My limited experience with BP revolvers has taught me that when you think youve cleaned it, clean in again. The priming compound from the caps get into the action and crude it up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-2B8ioQ2N0

Yeah, I came in to say "dirty, or corroded from being left dirty for a while".

Hopefully it's nothing too major and you can go back to enjoying it once you get it figured out.
 
bennnn;n17870 said:
Yeah, I came in to say "dirty, or corroded from being left dirty for a while".

Hopefully it's nothing too major and you can go back to enjoying it once you get it figured out.

That's the killer, by the time I found caps and powder etc I had nowhere to shoot it.
 
Ok, looks like you guys were bang on. I never took this thing apart before, apparently the previous owner was not much for cleaning!


Everything looks salvageable, seems to be surface rust, albeit it a nasty case. I'm about to bust out the green scrubber and the oil and have at it. Sort of embarrassed at the condition of the guts, the outside didn't look anything like as bad. I'm guessing the broke the barrel off and scrubbed the outside, cylinder and barrel when he shot it and never had the lockwork apart.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The rust is not the functional problem. One leg is broken off the Trigger & Bolt spring. So, one leg works the trigger, one the bolt. Its the one legged part with the screw hole in it at 8 oclock in the photo above. It should be a two legged part. Taylors/Cimarron Arms/S&S out of NY/Dixie gun works.....to look for the part. There are a number of versions. You'll probably have to try one and fit it and then, ya might have to try and fit two or more. Not a lot of configuration control over the years with the I-tialian revolvers.

Possible parts source:

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/accessories/parts/pietta-parts/pietta-1851-navy-parts.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the info! Looks like the shipping is more than the part as usual, so I'll see how the rest clean up before I order in case I need anything else. Couldn't make progress earlier, I can't figure out where all my oil went to when I moved.

Now if I can just sneak this rusty sucker into your pile for one of those amazing makeovers......
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You don't want the flat spring type. For a very smooth action get this. No fitting required. This will fit the Colt, Uberti, and the Pietta and clones.
Wire-Type Springs (Stock No. 32294-32296) fits: Colt, Uberti, an most clones

https://www.gunsprings.com/index.php...6#top-products

The hand spring should be replaced. That appendage on the hammer can be removed from the hammer. The flat spring is pressed in and can be removed. The spring needs polished or replaced. This part is usually broken before the others. I don't see the main spring/hammer spring. If the main spring is the least pitted I would guess it will go next. Before you buy one, and if you have the tools, I would polish the mainspring. It is a spring so don't get it hot. If you cannot hold it, dip it in cold water. I routinely grind the mainsprings into an hourglass shape, polish/sand/buff ALL scratches and marks away, and the result is a soft hammer pull, better trigger, and can set off any primer.

Buy some 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper. Get a piece of glass (super flat and hard) and rub the flat side of the parts on the 400 until rust is gone. Finish to a nice shine with the 600.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry. I don't have that spring or a main spring. I have everything else off an 1860 Army in less rusty condition including barrel, wedge and frame with guts and screws.
 
If you do, I'll gladly mail you some bucks for it.
 
Interesting information in this thread as always guys. Always a wealth of knowledge is available when these restoration issues arise and it helps many others when great content is posted on here for others to see and benefit from.

Thanks for starting this NCLivingBrit and thanks to all of the other contributors in the thread. I'm sure this thread will be referred to many times in this section of the new forum.
 
Red Cent;n34143 said:
You don't want the flat spring type. For a very smooth action get this. No fitting required. This will fit the Colt, Uberti, and the Pietta and clones.
Wire-Type Springs (Stock No. 32294-32296) fits: Colt, Uberti, an most clones

https://www.gunsprings.com/index.php...6#top-products

The hand spring should be replaced. That appendage on the hammer can be removed from the hammer. The flat spring is pressed in and can be removed. The spring needs polished or replaced. This part is usually broken before the others. I don't see the main spring/hammer spring. If the main spring is the least pitted I would guess it will go next. Before you buy one, and if you have the tools, I would polish the mainspring. It is a spring so don't get it hot. If you cannot hold it, dip it in cold water. I routinely grind the mainsprings into an hourglass shape, polish/sand/buff ALL scratches and marks away, and the result is a soft hammer pull, better trigger, and can set off any primer.

Buy some 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper. Get a piece of glass (super flat and hard) and rub the flat side of the parts on the 400 until rust is gone. Finish to a nice shine with the 600.

For now I'm going to restore it to function, clean off the crud and leave it at that until I actually get a chance to shoot it :)

If I like it, a spring kit definitely sounds like a good idea.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sharps40;n34202 said:
Sorry. I don't have that spring or a main spring. I have everything else off an 1860 Army in less rusty condition including barrel, wedge and frame with guts and screws.

No worries mate, I appreciate you taking a look for me. Thanks!
 
Red Cent;n34387 said:
I am sure I have a sear/bolt spring around here somewhere. P-mail me your address. No charge.

Thanks! I really appreciate that! PM incoming!
 
Well I had to go grab a new tin of oil, but I got everything scrubbed free of rust, oiled and partially put back together (mostly to keep the right screws in the right holes). You can see it was rusty previously, I didn't polish anything. I like the character of it, just wanted the rust gone.

I can't wait to get her fighting fit again. The owner of the property I'm staying at has no problem with me shooting on her back five acres, I found all my caps and powder and such so I may finally get to shoot this sucker!

Thanks to all with their assistance and use of their expertise and Red Cent, you sir are a life saver! Much appreciated and thanks!

I'll post some pics once it's ready to go :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A "tin" of oil....ya really are from over the pond ain't ya?

You know, yer gonna have to work on that. Cause if ya ever said something as simple as I'm taking the baby in the perambulator on the tube, ain't no body no how down here gonna know you and the kid is goin on a subway ride with the youngster in a buggy.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sharps40;n38567 said:
A "tin" of oil....ya really are from over the pond ain't ya?

You know, yer gonna have to work on that. Cause if ya ever said something as simple as I'm taking the baby in the perambulator on the tube, ain't no body no how down here gonna know you and the kid is goin on a subway ride with the youngster in a buggy.

It's not even really a tin anymore, it's a silly plastic bottle. Does have a nice long (6", as long as the bottle is tall) retractable flexible oiler neck though which is really handy. Doesn't go "badunk" anymore though.

Like NC has a subway ;) Everywhere here that does is some sort of awful Leftist Urban Death Maze, I'll pass.
 
Firstly, huge thanks to Red Cent for sending me the part I needed, I really appreciate it mate!

Second.... did I put this in correctly? I'm pretty sure the end of the spring should rest on the flat part of the trigger, right?

 
One long leg will go on the trigger flat to ensure its return to the forward position. The other leg will make the bolt to stay up in the locked cylinder position. It looks to be properly installed.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Red Cent;n57749 said:
One long leg will go on the trigger flat to ensure its return to the forward position. The other leg will make the bolt to stay up in the locked cylinder position. It looks to be properly installed.

Problem is the spring doesn't quite reach the trigger flat. You can just see it ends a millimeter or so before it gets there.
 
Well, shoot!!!

That spring fits a Colt SAA and clones. Apparently the old BPs were different.
Suggestion: If there is a music store relatively close, they should have music wire. The stuff is cheap. A piece of wire to bend to that shape may cost .02 cents.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PRECISION-BRAND-Music-Wire-3L558?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/3L538_AS01?$smthumb$ Just an example. They will sell you the whole roll.

Get 12" of .020 and 12" of .040 wire. $2.00 should be more than enough.


Get a smooth jaw needle nose or regular pliers. Wrap electrical tape a couple of times if you can't find smooth ones. You do not want to put any kind of a nick or scratch on the wire. Bend rather slowly (no heat) to this shape using the spring you have as a eyeballer.
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-par...-prod6875.aspx
Or order one of those to fit:)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Red Cent;n58646 said:
Well, shoot!!!

That spring fits a Colt SAA and clones. Apparently the old BPs were different.
Suggestion: If there is a music store relatively close, they should have music wire. The stuff is cheap. A piece of wire to bend to that shape may cost .02 cents.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PRECISION-BRAND-Music-Wire-3L558?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/3L538_AS01?$smthumb$ Just an example. They will sell you the whole roll.

Get 12" of .020 and 12" of .040 wire. $2.00 should be more than enough.


Get a smooth jaw needle nose or regular pliers. Wrap electrical tape a couple of times if you can't find smooth ones. You do not want to put any kind of a nick or scratch on the wire. Bend rather slowly (no heat) to this shape using the spring you have as a eyeballer.
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-par...-prod6875.aspx
Or order one of those to fit:)

Sounds like a plan. You want me to mail back the spring? I kept the bag in case it didn't fit, figure you can help out the next newbie.
 
Red Cent;n58687 said:
When you get time. that would work.

You need to try the music wire thing. The best cowboy gunsmith in the world showed me how to do that some years back. He could set down with some wire and make one of those with no example to go by. Good guy and a friend.
http://codyscowboyshop.com/

Very cool. I may order one of those ones you posted early on, soon as I sell some of my stuff :)
 
Back
Top Bottom