Playing around with Aluma Hyde II.....

Desolo

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Was annoyed how the frame on my Desert Eagle Id recently gotten ahold of seemed to try and pick up rust just from holding it ( dont you dare forget to touch it with an oil rag!), while the rest of it doesnt seem as persnickety....

So I hit on an idea, coat the frame!

I always liked the look of a two tone black slide, stainless/chrome/nickel frame, so why not try something that replicates that?

Well I dont have alot of stuff for it, or experience using them, so the aerosol Aluma Hyde appealed to me. And they listed a "Stainless steel grey".... so fast forward a bit, and I have the stuff in hand.

Stripped the frame down to bare ( surprisingly easy with the Desert Eagle!)

Scrubbed it down a bit with a green scrubby pad ( no sand blaster, so had to improvise), found out the frames "Black oxide" finish is INCREDIBLY weak ( no suprise there).
It was also, surprisingly easy due to the large flat surfaces and large curved areas that are open.

Once that was done, I used pure acetone to degrease it as best as I could.... messy but nothing to bad. Then hit it with a hairdryer to both flash off the acetone, and heat the metal up.....also gently heated the can of Aluma Hyde ( recommended that the spray be about 90 degree, along with the metal)....

After making sure it was all shaken up well, and the metal was thoroughly warm, it was time to spray.

Light coats, with a quick heat cycle between them. I did three since some had noted it was a bit much to do 4, and 2 may not be enough.

Now, it can be left to "air cure" which can take a week, or possibly two. Or you can bake it. So..... yeah. Who wants to wait 2 weeks and hope the stuff cures correctly.

So, I let it sit for a bit, and got an old, out of use smoker up to 200-250 degrees ( it didnt like to stay right at any temp, part of why it was out of use.... but thats ok, found another use for it), and once I had it cycling at a reasonable level, I retrieved the frame, and hung it up to bake. Left it in for alllllmost 4 hours.

Pulled it out, let it cool, and once cooled surveyed my work. Hard and cured, but a couple spots deep in the frame didnt get completely scrubbed free from oil, and hadnt been scuffed up, so it didnt quite take.... so good thing that area was incidental and wasnt what I was looking to worry about anyway. Literally an area that was going to be wore clean in time anyway.....


So yeah. Assembled it, after giving it a through look over, which was arguably a bigger pain in the butt then disassembly ( pro tips, use a grocery store rewards card to slide the slide catch spring into postion, dont try and drag everything into postion... saves alot of pain. Also a metal drinking straw or similar works great for holding the trigger spring exactly where is needed), and voila. It is done. Oiled it up and then admired my work.

I am pleased. Not bad for a first try... I think anyway.

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Nice job. I coated a Mossberg Shockwave barrel with Alumahyde and its holding up well. It's definitely the best rattlecan coating out there.

Get a little toaster oven and it makes small jobs a snap
 
Yeah, I think I like this stuff.

I may have to find some other things to try this on
 
I wonder what the shelf life is for Alumahyde? I've got a never used can that's over 10 years old....................

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@Desolo , looks great!

I've been looking on Brownells for some assorted colors for a couple of months now for some AR projects. Like many other things these days, it is always out of stock. Third party sellers want double or more.
Rustoleum is where I'm headed, at least for the near future.
 
@Desolo , looks great!

I've been looking on Brownells for some assorted colors for a couple of months now for some AR projects. Like many other things these days, it is always out of stock. Third party sellers want double or more.
Rustoleum is where I'm headed, at least for the near future.
Sometimes plain ol' spray paint just does the job!

Ive toyed with trying some camo jobs with plain rattle can paint, just havent gotten around to it. Maybe Ill hit my truck ar pistol at some point...

I HAVE used High temp engine paint on AK type stuff before, and if it is applied ok it seems to hold up well, and doesnt look bad.


@Gator
As for shelf life, Im not sure.... ive heard it doesnt last long, and ive heard the key is having spare nozzles for the can. I suppose all you can do is see how the stuff works.
 
I tried to use alumahyde back in gunsmithing school on something cheap. I could never get it to work right. It would look good but the slightest contact with anything and it would chip and peel. Once the first ding was there, it would basically fall off. Looks like you did a better job then me. Congrats sir.
 
I tried to use alumahyde back in gunsmithing school on something cheap. I could never get it to work right. It would look good but the slightest contact with anything and it would chip and peel. Once the first ding was there, it would basically fall off. Looks like you did a better job then me. Congrats sir.

Near as I can tell the baking helps alot... along with degreasing while heating the metal up, and then keeping the can warm along with the surface while applying it.

I was pretty nervous about trying it after reading about some of the problems but I had a good run.
 
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along with degreasing while heating the metal up, and then keeping the can warm along with the surface while applying it.
Heating helps relax and open the pores of the metal and really assists in removal of the oil. Removing the oil is imperative for good adhesion.
Warming up the Aluma Hyde a little also helps with application and adhesion along w/the surface.
Thank You @Deslo for a nice casual tutorial here.
 
I did this one last summer/fall in Alumahyde wolf gray. I wanted something other than black/fde/odg so went with gray and thought about adding the WWII Dazzle paint scheme to it. Only got the base on. I scrubbed/scuffed, degreased with brake cleaner, warmed good and degreased again and then warmed the piece in the oven and applied a few coats/cooks. You can see on one mag where the tolerances were tight and I was impatient to put it together. The red was high temp bake on auto finish that sucked and flaked right off.

Everything but the grip was alumahyde coated. The grip is a wolf gray BCM grip.

Overall it worked but I think I may try a cheap cerecoat kit next time.

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PS yes the mags are backwards. Taken that way to show ware.
 
It also likes a toothy surface. My 870 was blasted from the factory and it adhered very well. The only spot that is flaking is around the loading port where I smoothed the sharp edges with a Dremel first. I think the metal was too smooth to let the alumahyde adhere well.
 
Sometimes plain ol' spray paint just does the job!

Ive toyed with trying some camo jobs with plain rattle can paint, just havent gotten around to it. Maybe Ill hit my truck ar pistol at some point...

I HAVE used High temp engine paint on AK type stuff before, and if it is applied ok it seems to hold up well, and doesnt look bad.


@Gator
As for shelf life, Im not sure.... ive heard it doesnt last long, and ive heard the key is having spare nozzles for the can. I suppose all you can do is see how the stuff works.
I painted my stainless Mini 14 with flat black BBQ paint that hardens when heated. It has been pretty resilient to oil and solvent. After I painted it I let it off gas for a day then heated it in the oven for a couple of hours. I didn't paint the trigger group or bolt as I didn't want to chance getting paint where it would cause problems. It's lasted over 4 years but is showing finish loss at wear points. Probably time to do it again.
 
Ive
I painted my stainless Mini 14 with flat black BBQ paint that hardens when heated. It has been pretty resilient to oil and solvent. After I painted it I let it off gas for a day then heated it in the oven for a couple of hours. I didn't paint the trigger group or bolt as I didn't want to chance getting paint where it would cause problems. It's lasted over 4 years but is showing finish loss at wear points. Probably time to do it again.
Used that on AK's and Saiga 12 conversions with similar results... I just let the finish wear ride eventually though
 
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