Prepping rifle brass for loading - Pic HEAVY

[BurnedOutGeek]

My 7WSM is long since gone, but thankfully the waybackmachine never forgets.

I'll get this updated for the Remington 260 and 6 Creedmoor in the coming weeks.

We always get the common questions about reloading for this and that, so I figured this last time loading for the sniper golf shoot (that I didn't even get to go to - dang back) I would take some pics and write some quick steps up for those that might want to load some match-type rifle rounds. Would I do all this much work for some .223 or .308 plinking rounds - Uh... not likely.

With that being said I spent the better part of a week prepping some brass that I got for the 7WSM and took some pictures along the way in case anyone wanted to give it a try too. WARNING: this will not be fun to most "reloaders". Now, it would be great, and would have cut down a lot of work if Lapua would start making some brass for the 7WSM

I had to order some Winchester brass and one of the three bags came in pretty mangled albeit not mangled enough to worry about sending it back. After examining all the cases I ended up pitching about 7 out of 150, so not too bad. Well, on with the show...

Phase One: Uniforming Primer Pockets
I use a Lyman kit that contains all the tools in a nice carrying case.
(except the flash hole de-burring tool in the middle sold separately)

Virgin Winchester brass before uniforming:

Primer pocket uniforming tool: This has a bushing on it to prevent it from cutting too deep.
Basically makes this operation dummy proof, but time consuming.

Just before finishing the entire pocket (and my hand is cramping up)
I go ahead and de-bur the flash hole on the inside using the de-burring tool:
(Take your time setting up the de-burring tool as to not screw up the flash hole)

Tough shot to get, but here is the inside flash hole after being de-burred.

Then make the final passes finishing up the primer pocket.

**mental note: get an electric screwdriver to do this**


Phase Two: Full Length Sizing
First time sizing I always "Full-Length" size it using Forster full length sizing die. After fire forming, I'll neck size using Redding type "S" dies. It's probably not going to do a heck of a lot since it's new,but I want to make sure the case neck lengths, and neck diameters are all the same before trimming for overall length and turning the necks.
Full length sizing I use Hornady Unique case lube (and very little of it) - it works well easily wipes off when you're done, and since I use my fingers to lube the case I use that time to examine the cases in greater detail looking for anything bad.

This is the Redding T-7 turret press - I'm extremely happy with this expensive sumbeech.
Full length sizing the case:

 

[BurnedOutGeek]

When neck sizing I use the Redding type "s" bushing die (I had the 260 rem apart for cleaning). The key to the bushing dies is good cartridge measurements to get the right bushings for the correct neck tension. Current setup on the 260 is a 139gr Lapua Scenar/Lapua brass and using a .292 bushing. If you are setting up the bushing die make sure after you make contact with the bushing that you back out 1/16 of a turn to allow the decapping rod to center up with the case neck. Instead of the Unique case lube I use Imperial Dry Neck Lube.

Then I finish up with a quick brushing inside of the case neck.

Repeat the process 49 more times - lol

Phase Three: Trim cases for overall length
For this operation I use a lyman case trimmer that I've had for a long time, and it gets the job done quite nicely.

Before: Pretty rough.

After: Cutting just enough to be uniform.

Next up is to Chamfer and De-bur the neck:
Using these to take the bur off - both inside an out:

Before:

After:

Lather, rinse and repeat for the remaining cases!
Next up: Quick tumble for about 15 minutes getting off any residual lube and then priming

ETA: Case annealing will happen one of the next trips out - I'll get him to send me some pics of the machine in action. For now just YouTube case annealing and you'll find lots of videos on how to do it by hand with a torch.


Ran out of time for neck turning... - Here is a great write up on it using the Sinclair tool I use.

So the cases got tossed in with some corn cob media and tumbled for about 15-20 minutes just to get any residual case lube off.

Phase Four: Next we'll do some priming!
(Always wear eye protection - it may save your sight)
For this I like to use the Lyman Ram Prime. This die is designed for sensitive one-at-a-time primer seating on top of the press. The shell holder goes into the die, and the die comes with an anvil which is inserted into where the shell holder would go. Just put the primer in the primer punch pusher and raise the ram to seat the primer, lower the ram and do it over, and over, and over, and over till complete...

Mmmmmm, that's nice.

Tah-Dah!!! Brass ready for loading!

 

[BurnedOutGeek]

So after getting some brass annealed (with a very special thanks to @Djstorm100 a while back,) and finally having cleared off my bench. I pulled out the stuff make some .260 remington rounds since we have the gaurdian coming up.

Same process as above but instead of trimming manually the Giraud get some exercise. Love it!





Also went ahead and prepped some 6 creedmoor for the gas gun.
Here's the before pic. Need to take another after some handy work.


They'd look like this if I had remembered to take the pic. Lol


Here's a tease with some testing to follow.

 

[Mad Mallard]

Nice reloads! I have that same Lyman kit and the flash hole de-burring tool. What do you think of it?

 

[BurnedOutGeek]

Nice reloads! I have that same Lyman kit and the flash hole de-burring tool. What do you think of it?

Love it - there may be something better, but it does the job for me quite well.

 

[AR10ShooterinNC]

Nice...

My process is clean the brass, swage primer pocket if needed, anneal, resize, trim, chamfer & debure, cut primer pockets or clean them. I have a drill adapter for my brass trimming, chamfer, deburing, and primer pocket tools.

 

[Downeast]

You mean there are other ways to handload rifle brass? This is the way I've been doing it for 40 years. One round at a time.

 

[Downeast]

Let me know how the 6mm performs? I may still end up with one.

 

[chrishf12]

Let me know how the 6mm performs? I may still end up with one.

^^This! I don't mean to hijack but I have been considering precision calibers. What do you like the most between the .260 and 6 creed?

 

[BurnedOutGeek]

Let me know how the 6mm performs? I may still end up with one.

^^This! I don't mean to hijack but I have been considering precision calibers. What do you like the most between the .260 and 6 creed?

https://www.carolinafirearmsforum.com/index.php?threads/to-6-or-6-5.14387/

 

[<MADDOG>]

great post!

 

[Goofyfoot2001]

If you use pasty lube you'll shoot your eye out and dent your cases in the full size die. Also you cases are not shiny enough. They must glisten.

 

[Toprudder]

They can be real purty and still shoot like crap. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Meckmeister]

Great step by step on your reloads, enjoyed the photos. As far as a recent experience, I ran down a rat hole on reloads for awhile on my 6.5 creed. Had good success with Peterson and Federal cases, but got cocky I guess, trying Seller and Bellot. Tried a couple dozen or more cases, but could not get the shoulder bumps. (Used Redding FL sizing die and all the suggested techniques with a head space comparator).

I finally convinced myself that S&B is a steel ammo, I think, from the Czechs. The case is probably from tough alloy material. (I have yet to go to annealing) So I waved the white flag and returned to using the more common cases.