Rattle can jobs

IrishCannon

IrishCannon

Fight hard.
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Got a little tires of looking at all black rifles, so I grabbed my most boring and basic piece of hardware and went to work. Not too bad for a first timer with $10 worth of spray paint and a tiger stripe stencil I cut out.

Thinking of trying something similar with khaki/olive. It's really hard to find all the right paint colors. Anyone know who carries all of the Rustoleum or Krylon patterns? Lowes and HD don't seem to ship the stuff and all the local stores are out. Guess it's a hunting season thing?
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When I did my stainless Mini using BBQ flat black paint I baked it in my wife's oven at 350F for several hours after letting the paint out gas for a day. It hardened it up very nicely.
 
IrishCannon said:
Got a little tires of looking at all black rifles, so I grabbed my most boring and basic piece of hardware and went to work. Not too bad for a first timer with $10 worth of spray paint and a tiger stripe stencil I cut out.

Thinking of trying something similar with khaki/olive. It's really hard to find all the right paint colors. Anyone know who carries all of the Rustoleum or Krylon patterns? Lowes and HD don't seem to ship the stuff and all the local stores are out. Guess it's a hunting season thing?
e9dbe9f4eadf6c5ee684db130266abcc.jpg


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I really like Brownells Aluma-Hyde 2.
It’s a little pricey, but it cures well and is pretty tough.
YMMV
 
IrishCannon said:
It's really hard to find all the right paint colors. Anyone know who carries all of the Rustoleum or Krylon patterns? Lowes and HD don't seem to ship the stuff and all the local stores are out. Guess it's a hunting season thing?
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I always had good luck finding the cans I wanted at Tractor Supply. I've never looked this close to deer season so maybe there is something to that but it may be worth a try.
 
This stuff works well. They have stencils you can print out for free on the page too.

Camouflage Paint Spray | Krylon®

This Camouflage Paint Spray is ultra-flat and non-reflective to provide the ultimate camouflage. Find the product you're looking for at Krylon.com.
www.krylon.com www.krylon.com

I chose to make my own stencils from blue tape for this one. You paint a base color, then tape it up with squiggle tape stensils, then paint again, then cover it up, with more tape stencils. Sorry, not an AR in AR section though.

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Timfoilhat said:
This stuff works well. They have stencils you can print out for free on the page too.

Camouflage Paint Spray | Krylon®

This Camouflage Paint Spray is ultra-flat and non-reflective to provide the ultimate camouflage. Find the product you're looking for at Krylon.com.
www.krylon.com www.krylon.com

I chose to make my own stencils from blue tape for this one. You paint a base color, then tape it up with squiggle tape stensils, then paint again, then cover it up, with more tape stencils. Sorry, not an AR in AR section though.

View attachment 379195
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Yep, Krylon is who I went with too. I didn't know Sherwin-Williams carried their stuff, maybe I should check there. All I see on Amazon are bulk packs.

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steelciocc said:
Here are a couple of uppers I’ve done recently. Just waiting on a couple of Form 1 suppressors to fit inside the handguards.

I’m sure all the paint will rub off the first few times I use ‘em : )

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Do you prep and prime? That goes a long way toward the paint sticking better.
 
steelciocc said:
Here are a couple of uppers I’ve done recently. Just waiting on a couple of Form 1 suppressors to fit inside the handguards.

I’m sure all the paint will rub off the first few times I use ‘em : )

View attachment 379200
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Really well done. What is your process for the multicam?

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There's rattle can, and there is quality paint job. Some of these are quality paint jobs. You can rattle can an AR (or any rifle I suppose) in 10 minutes.
 
IrishCannon said:
Really well done. What is your process for the multicam?

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Thanks IrishCannon! I have a stencil I got from Primary Arms a few years ago that I’ve used on these with rustoleum paint.



Here is my color progression:

968940AF-087B-46CA-8102-1F177F23C577.jpegB8CA65BF-4BA1-45F7-AD2C-C36E3451E67E.jpeg1FD3D70A-E2D3-41A2-B845-A4BE1A93587D.jpeg229A3455-6FF6-4C4E-BA18-82D8128CB1DD.jpeg
 
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For my latest job (Rem 700 chassis), i printed out samples of the camo I want to copy (woodland BDU in this case)

I get a few sheets of wax paper and totally coat them in high quality painters tape and draw/trace on the shapes I want to use and cut them out with a razor:

9KTa9kE.jpg


Since black is my background here, I lay the stencils down for what I want to be black, then spray light color down (khaki, sand etc). Let that cure. Cheap tape will draw up when the paint dries, and this can ruin clean edges

kRcUhWd.jpg


Lay your next group of stencils and put one of your darker colors:
ZWmefma.jpg


I didn’t take a photo of the brown, but if you want your last colors to blend, just do alternating rows of the color. I wanted crisp lines so once the green dried, I taped over several inch sections with random cuts on the outer sides to divide it up.

Fin!
roFPiGb.jpg



For black multicam, I used a similar method, just had to do much smaller stencils

xa1icXB.jpg


Covering the black:
zSxnrho.jpg


Alternating slate and the drab green as close to colors specified by Crye

FEUTgK1.jpg


Once this dried and I removed the tape, I MISTED it with black in areas to blend it/diffuse the crisp lines like you’d see the fades/transitions in Black MC
 
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This is what @Chuckman was referring to Laundry bag camo is easier. Just pick the size of your desired mesh and go to town

The closer you hold the can, the more crisp your lines will be. The further you hold the can, the more the lines will be blurred. Too close and too far is bad, IMO. Practice on an old pellet rifle or toy gun or something to get your desired effect

Large mesh
SxTTIgM.jpg


Little mesh
IPvrHWf.jpg



If you use a non-“camo” paint for a specific color, you may want to do a matte clear coat to knock down any shine from a satin paint or whatever. Make sure your paint has CURED because these clear coats can make the paint look like it’s got a white dusty texture. It can wipe off with gentle brush of a rag (not paper towel) but only if the paint is cured

Prior to paint, I wear nitrile gloves and wipe the whole rifle down with 70% ISO. I don’t soak it, but I use a cotton ball and wear gloves to prevent finger prints. Also, wipe off as much gun oil prior to this and that’ll help the paint stick (and stay!)

Feel free to ask questions or ask for specific photos of whatever. I can either find one to answer or recreate it pretty easily
 
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Chuckman said:
There's rattle can, and there is quality paint job. Some of these are quality paint jobs. You can rattle can an AR (or any rifle I suppose) in 10 minutes.
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Ya some of these are next level good.

I'm honestly going a little hard with the spray paint. I just OD Green'd one of my black chest rigs and was eyeballing one of my barbells (stubby axle bar) as the coating is flaking anyways.
 
@IrishCannon

You ok with me moving this to Gunsmithing - Assembly - Finishing where it’s a better fit?
 
And lastly, for a straight up “in the woods” rifle, you can use what’s common for your surroundings. Since we live in pine tree hell, go grab some pine needles (grocery sack full) and use the mesh bag technique with distance.

If you live somewhere up NW, you can use fir branches or something, or down in Florida, some palm fronds and lighter greens.

Here’s my squirrel getter and old 16” .308 I no longer have
tCYqD2v.jpg


DsbPPyd.jpg


(Had to edit the double photo)


Also, not my photo but Im trying to find a winter camo that was a big inspiration
 
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