Reasonable car fire extinguisher?

Jayne

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The extinguisher in the truck is way expired and the other vehicles don't have them. I need to fix that.

Reading reviews on amazon is frustrating because people rarely USE fire extinguishers and there are some horror stories in there about those who tried to use them and they failed.

Who's in the know about extinguishers? I see plastic is evil, but most of them seem to have those components. If you're replacing them every X years, is plastic workable?
 
Recommended to me by one of our very own member firefighters:

https://www.zoro.com/amerex-fire-extinguisher-dry-chemical-3a40bc-b402/i/G3594455/

He gave me a lot of solid reasoning behind this particular model.

Please note that I paid $37 each through Walmart. I have one in each car and each room of our house. It fits perfectly right in front of my drivers seat under my legs. Doesn't get in the way at all.

And Zoro had GREAT customer service! When I received my shipment from Walmart I noticed one of the "born on" dates of the extinguishers was about 2 years old. I called them and they told me to keep it and sent another new one for free.
 
well, i am not "in the know".

here is what i do: buy in October because it is Fire Prevention Month.
most places have "specials" on extinguishers. sometimes, buy one get one free.
last year, Ace Hardware had a really good one. two $50 FE's for $44 total.

we have 8 FE's.
one in each car (4).
one on the deck next to the grill.
one in the kitchen, one in the hall, and one in the bathroom.

we will rotate the outside FE's after 3 years...or sooner,
depending upon the "specials". as above, we bought
six new ones last year since ACE allowed use to
exceed the 2-per-customer limit which we
turned into 2-per-transaction. 3 total rings.
 
We spent a great deal of money on personal protection. In the form of firearms, so it makes sense to spend a decent amount of money on fire extinguishers. Them being of too low a capacity and improperly used is not a design flaw of the extinguishers, it’s a flaw of the operator. Operator error does not negate the utility of a quality fire extinguisher used for its intended purpose by people who can simply read a cartoon on the back of the tank.


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A small dry chemical fire extinguisher in the kitchen and workshop can help keep a small problem from becoming a big problem. I don’t see a practical application in a vehicle where there is no such thing as a little fire and my focus is on getting everyone out. Happy to be educated though.
 
Fire Extinguishers are more times than not useless on a vehicle fire. I stopped one day at a vehicle fire and used my fire extinguisher to try to put it out. Hit it once and knocked right out. I started again. Hit it again and knocked it out again and again and again. Problem was I couldn't get under the hood to see what kept reigniting the fire. By the time the fire dept. got there it had stuff dripping out from under the hood. At that point all they could do was "surround and drowned". Still took a good bit to put it out.

Side note: I am not saying don't have one just don't depend on it too much. If you get to the fire soon enuff maybe. But if it starts while you are driving you likely won't get stopped soon enuff to do much good.
 
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Kidde had recalls on most of their plastic handle/nozzle models last year (or year before). Like any tool, it’s all about how you treat it and what your intended use is. Cheaper extinguishers are made for small fires and are made to be one time use and disposable (non-serviceable) after some period of time. I don’t think plastic is evil, but you’ve got to know what the tool is made for and have expectations that meet those. Get a type that matches your expected fire type too...a kitchen fire is likely very different than other places inside or outside a structure, so get the right category.

One problem with fire extinguishers in vehicles (or boats, etc.) is that over time, the vibrations cause the powder to pack in the bottom (depends on how it’s mounted) and it becomes less than effective when needed. You would think it would be opposite but if mounted properly and not rolling around, the powder will tend to pack. If its powder is packed, you are spraying the pressurized gas and not much powder. If you are going to keep one in a vehicle, check it every few months and turn it upside down and lightly tap the side and bottom... you should be able to hear the powder moving inside when you turn it over. Another problem with a car extinguisher is getting to it and also being able to get at the source of the fire (usually under the hood). I would say the likelihood of successfully putting out a vehicle fire is lower than in say a kitchen.

The 2 times I’ve used a vehicle fire extinguishers at work was to put out fires not associated with my vehicle. Those are also commercial grade, checked monthly and serviced annually (very nice, but costly). One was to put out a small fire on a lawnmower across the street from where we were working. The other was to put out a small grass fire started from a larger work truck’s exhaust/heat after sitting on a work site for a while. Point is, the “vehicle” extinguishers have been used more for non-vehicle fires so they do have a good purpose.

Also, a lot of problems come from user error when a FE is needed in a time of what is panic for most...spraying the “flames” won’t do a thing! I taught my kids and wife PASS many years ago and ask them about it from time to time. We also made a small fire and I let them use one.

P = Pull the pin
A = Aim at the BASE of the fire (not the scary flames)
S = Squeeze the handle
S = Sweep side to side (at the base of the fire)

Also told them not to try to be a hero...at some point (usually a lot quicker than you think) a fire extinguisher won’t do you any good. Get out and save yourself/others...we can buy replacement “stuff” but not replacement people! Fire extinguishers and those skills are great to know but fire prevention measures and “what to do during a fire and getting out quickly” skills are usually more important.
 
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I get old expired ones and keep them around the house and in the car. They work as long as they are charged, we used some in the extinguisher class I taught a couple weeks ago. Im not suggesting that yall do this and you shouldn't. Do not use old extinguishers!
 
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Kidde had recalls on most of their plastic handle/nozzle models last year (or year before). Like any tool, it’s all about how you treat it and what your intended use is. Cheaper extinguishers are made for small fires and are made to be one time use and disposable (non-serviceable) after some period of time. I don’t think plastic is evil, but you’ve got to know what the tool is made for and have expectations that meet those. Get a type that matches your expected fire type too...a kitchen fire is likely very different than other places inside or outside a structure, so get the right category.

One problem with fire extinguishers in vehicles (or boats, etc.) is that over time, the vibrations cause the powder to pack in the bottom (depends on how it’s mounted) and it becomes less than effective when needed. You would think it would be opposite but if mounted properly and not rolling around, the powder will tend to pack. If its powder is packed, you are spraying the pressurized gas and not much powder. If you are going to keep one in a vehicle, check it every few months and turn it upside down and lightly tap the side and bottom... you should be able to hear the powder moving inside when you turn it over. Another problem with a car extinguisher is getting to it and also being able to get at the source of the fire (usually under the hood). I would say the likelihood of successfully putting out a vehicle fire is lower than in say a kitchen.

The 2 times I’ve used a vehicle fire extinguishers at work was to put out fires not associated with my vehicle. Those are also commercial grade, checked monthly and serviced annually (very nice, but costly). One was to put out a small fire on a lawnmower across the street from where we were working. The other was to put out a small grass fire started from a larger work truck’s exhaust/heat after sitting on a work site for a while. Point is, the “vehicle” extinguishers have been used more for non-vehicle fires so they do have a good purpose.

Also, a lot of problems come from user error when a FE is needed in a time of what is panic for most...spraying the “flames” won’t do a thing! I taught my kids and wife PASS many years ago and ask them about it from time to time. We also made a small fire and I let them use one.

P = Pull the pin
A = Aim at the BASE of the fire (not the scary flames)
S = Squeeze the handle
S = Sweep side to side (at the base of the fire)

Also told them not to try to be a hero...at some point (usually a lot quicker than you think) a fire extinguisher won’t do you any good. Get out and save yourself/others...we can buy replacement “stuff” but not replacement people! Fire extinguishers and those skills are great to know but fire prevention measures and “what to do during a fire and getting out quickly” skills are usually more important.


This is why we "hefted" the extinguisher during monthy inspections in the military. Tip it upside down a few times to keep the agent inside freely moving
 
Years back in training we were instructed that certain vehicles are not to be approached without SCBAs because certain materials (use to be polymer types but now includes battery pack material) used in their construction gives off harmful fumes. To get someone out of a vehicle or keep it from spreading to endanger life I’d use a good extinguisher but just to try and put the fire out for the vehicle ... I ain’t fire or smoke proof so stand clear and let the professionals handle it then file with the insurance company to be reimbursed maybe 80¢ on the dollar but you’ll be alive and able to collect.
 
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This is why we "hefted" the extinguisher during monthy inspections in the military. Tip it upside down a few times to keep the agent inside freely moving

Same for work...monthly we had to tip the vehicle and building extinguishers and if we couldn’t hear the powder moving, we had to tap on it lightly on the end and sides to free it up.
 
Years back in training we were instructed that certain vehicles are not to be approached without SCBAs because certain materials (use to be polymer types but now includes battery pack material) used in their construction gives off harmful fumes. To get someone out of a vehicle or keep it from spreading to endanger life I’d use a good extinguisher but just to try and put the fire out for the vehicle ... I ain’t fire or smoke proof so stand clear and let the professionals handle it then file with the insurance company to be reimbursed maybe 80¢ on the dollar but you’ll be alive and able to collect.

Part of training we received in the hospital regarding fires and fire fighters is you try to not even handle clothing exposed to fires. If a fire fighter comes in the ED after being in or fighting a fire, first thing we do is have them drop all their turn out gear and clothes due to possibility oy cyanide contamination. If the fire hits a certain temp, there are lots of modern materials- pretty much any with nitrogen in them that release hydrogen cyanide.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3058018/
 
I have a 5# extinguisher (same one referenced in the post by @JustKeepSwimming )in my vehicle, within reach, at all times and would not even consider going without it.

FWIW, extinguishers are not designed to put out big, hellacious fires. They are designed to assist in putting out smaller fires to keep them from becoming big, hellacious fires.
 
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My only personal experience with fire extinguishers (fortunately; note use of plural) was when an alternator caught fire on the road well away from any help.

It was a small flame inside the alternator; this was one of the few times I had no tools wth me, so I couldn't disconnect/ cut the battery cable. I hit it with a small aluminum-cased "everything" FE probably designed for a housewife in her kitchen. Fire went out, relit; went out, relit... repeat until FE empty.

Melting/faming insulation was dripping from the alternator by this point. FORTUNATELY, I had a second, larger FE - one ofthe typical Kidde ones from a box store - I guess it was a 5-pounder. I went through 3/4 to 7/8 of that one before the battery went dead enough that the fire wouldn't relight. A few minutes later, the VFD guys showed up - a passing motorist had called them (thank you, Good Samaritan!) I couldn't help but notice they were disappointed there was nothing for them to do but call AAA for me!

So, my advice for a vehicle FE is: HAVE MORE THAN ONE.
 
I went with an Element Fire Extinguisher. They work a bit differently in that they don't smother a fire, but contain chemicals that rob the fire of oxygen. The up side is that they never expire and never have to be serviced. I bought one for each vehicle and two for the house.
 
I went with an Element Fire Extinguisher. They work a bit differently in that they don't smother a fire, but contain chemicals that rob the fire of oxygen. The up side is that they never expire and never have to be serviced. I bought one for each vehicle and two for the house.

THAT would be cool as heck on a boat but it's not yet USCG or UL certified, I guess I'll have to wait....
 
Our instructor at a fire safety class told us to give the extinguisher a good smack on the floor and turn it upside down and back once,
helps to dislodge the settled powder inside, before pulling the pin and use short bursts with sweep motion at the base of the fire.
 
Our instructor at a fire safety class told us to give the extinguisher a good smack on the floor and turn it upside down and back once,
helps to dislodge the settled powder inside, before pulling the pin and use short bursts with sweep motion at the base of the fire.
Good to know! Makes sense, though I never thought about it. Thanks.
 
THAT would be cool as heck on a boat but it's not yet USCG or UL certified, I guess I'll have to wait....


Nothing says you cannot have a non approved one in addtion to the other one does it? Gives you a little backup that way.
 
Nothing says you cannot have a non approved one in addtion to the other one does it? Gives you a little backup that way.

I was looking to save room (size) and weight, not have additional extinguishers. I don't want to carry the one I have now but the "law" requires it so I do. I'm NOT a firefighter, never have been. never will be but what I do is pay my insurance premiums exactly on time if not early.
Have you ever experienced a fire on a boat?? It's ugly and there is no place to shelter yourself from harm, get off anyway you can even if you need to face additional peril...
 
Have you ever experienced a fire on a boat?? It's ugly and there is no place to shelter yourself from harm, get off anyway you can even if you need to face additional peril...


Understand weight and No I have not thankfully experienced one but seen some to know how ugly it gets quick. I will be more than likely getting out of dodge as well if first quick deployment method does not work if I even have time to try on a small fire.
 
The bad thing about boat fires is that they are usually either electrical or fuel related and sometimes don't give the "normal" warning signs. A fuel fire can be as violent as an explosion (fumes) and set off by something as innocent as a bilge pump coming on or a very slow leak that accumulates until it reaches a critical situation.
Electrical boat fires are a little more predictable IF the operator is paying attention. There a LOT of boats that are wired incorrectly using incorrect materials. But since square footage is limited your escape is also limited unless you go in the water.
 
A small dry chemical fire extinguisher in the kitchen and workshop can help keep a small problem from becoming a big problem. I don’t see a practical application in a vehicle where there is no such thing as a little fire and my focus is on getting everyone out. Happy to be educated though.
In the case of poorly maintained, modified, high performance, or very old high mileage vehicles, something like an oil leak or popped oil line dripping on the headers, or an electrical fire could be handled by a small extinguisher. But for the majority of people, I would agree, it’s unecessary.

I was the passenger in a mustang when it rolled over, landed on the roof, and slowly caught on fire while we climbed out. An extinguisher could’ve helped here but that stupid girl almost killed me so I didn’t care.
 
Recommended to me by one of our very own member firefighters:

https://www.zoro.com/amerex-fire-extinguisher-dry-chemical-3a40bc-b402/i/G3594455/

He gave me a lot of solid reasoning behind this particular model.

Please note that I paid $37 each through Walmart. I have one in each car and each room of our house. It fits perfectly right in front of my drivers seat under my legs. Doesn't get in the way at all.

And Zoro had GREAT customer service! When I received my shipment from Walmart I noticed one of the "born on" dates of the extinguishers was about 2 years old. I called them and they told me to keep it and sent another new one for free.
My research a year ago led me to the Amarex being the best all around.

However, I ended up grabbing some similarly spec’ed First Alerts for $20ea. Now Lowes has them on clearance for $17. I know the Amarex is better but $17-20 is a great deal.
 
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Have an extinguisher. See if your local fd offers extinguisher training. If not, buy an extra and try it out under controlled conditions. We had annual training in the service; they used to make everyone put out the fire. (tip... There is a sweet spot on distance, too far and it's ineffective, too close and you can fling burning stuff with the pressure. That's why you practice...)
 
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