Reinforcing ceiling for suspension point

NCMedic

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So I want to add a TRX suspension point in a ceiling of a room for my WOSS suspension trainer and other... Ahhem... reasons.

We have standard drywall over rafters and it seems that alot of people simply screw the suspension point into a rafter. This doesn't seem to add alot of "holding power" and consolidates the load in one area.

I've looked at a couple of ideas how people have done it and don't like it.

My thought was to take a 2x8 over 3 rafters and glue and screw several pieces of 2x8 or LVL together to fill the void space in-between the rafter so it would be "T” over the point and lag bolt the anchor point to the block with good quality hardware. The horizontal 2x8 would then be screwed down to the rafters to prevent movement.

Better way? Over engineered?
 
NCMedic said:
So I want to add a TRX suspension point in a ceiling of a room for my WOSS suspension trainer and other... Ahhem... reasons.

We have standard drywall over rafters and it seems that alot of people simply screw the suspension point into a rafter. This doesn't seem to add alot of "holding power" and consolidates the load in one area.

I've looked at a couple of ideas how people have done it and don't like it.

My thought was to take a 2x8 over 3 rafters and glue and screw several pieces of 2x8 or LVL together to fill the void space in-between the rafter so it would be "T” over the point and lag bolt the anchor point to the block with good quality hardware. The horizontal 2x8 would then be screwed down to the rafters to prevent movement.

Better way? Over engineered?
Click to expand...

Use a 2x10 about 36" long. Down the center of that 2x10, glue and screw a 2x8 so that end view looks like an inverted T. Put the inverted T across at least 3 rafters. Glue and screw to those 3 rafters. Attach suspension point to center rafter.

Alternatively- sister a 2x6 alongside rafter and against the drywall (glue and screw) for about 4ft to the rafter carrying the suspension point. Add 2x6 going up from the suspension point rafter in a V to top of rafter truss. Glue and screw. This ties in the suspension rafter to the top of the truss and reinforces the area of the suspension point.

Glue- use good quality brown carpenters or Gorilla. Screws- use Spax 3in construction screws and don't be stingy. The real issue with either method is the holding power of the screw (I'm not a fan of a 90 load on lags in wood) you're planning on loading and it's pullout load in the wood. Alternatively, for max strength, you can use an eye bolt and washer for the suspension point. Just make sure where you're drilling through isn't compromising the existing structure you just reinforced.
 
Dave951 said:
Use a 2x10 about 36" long. Down the center of that 2x10, glue and screw a 2x8 so that end view looks like an inverted T. Put the inverted T across at least 3 rafters. Glue and screw to those 3 rafters. Attach suspension point to center rafter.
Click to expand...


This is basically what I had intended on doing. I've yet to find closed eye stainless steel eye bolt that's long enough to go through drywall and all the blocking, looking at like 12-14" length, only ones I've found have been upwards of $120
 
Check with a bolt house like Fastenal, McMaster or Grainger.
 
And you can hide the hole in the ceiling and bolt with an extra smoke or CO2 detector. Just gut it and install it as a cover. Not that I've ever contemplated doing such a thing.
 
If only we had some kind of advice columnist on staff, when such questions arise.
 
chiefjason said:
And you can hide the hole in the ceiling and bolt with an extra smoke or CO2 detector. Just gut it and install it as a cover. Not that I've ever contemplated doing such a thing.
Click to expand...
I hear a small air return works too.... But not worried about hiding it.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Climberman said:
I'm surprised Chad hasn't said anything here yet.
Click to expand...

Swings are a tool of the novice. Slings are where it's at and those are free standing.

However a solid ceiling anchor point is a must for suspension bondage.

You don't need to get fancy. As long as the rafters are at least 2x8 just nail a cross piece between 2, drill and screw eye bolt to the center of the cross piece.

The only reason to hide something is if you're ashamed. If you're ashamed you shouldn't be doing it.
 
Chdamn said:
Swings are a tool of the novice. Slings are where it's at and those are free standing.

However a solid ceiling anchor point is a must for suspension bondage.

You don't need to get fancy. As long as the rafters are at least 2x8 just nail a cross piece between 2, drill and screw eye bolt to the center of the cross piece.

The only reason to hide something is if you're ashamed. If you're ashamed you shouldn't be doing it.
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Just remember!!!! Chads basement!
 
I actually just found this while perusing online.
Think may go that route....of course it's from a website that sells items for special needs kids, however they have it under "sensory play"..... So I think they know what they are doing.
 

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NCMedic said:
I actually just found this while perusing online.
Think may go that route....of course it's from a website that sells items for special needs kids, however they have it under "sensory play"..... So I think they know what they are doing.
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea and one you can easily make yourself without having to buy there's.

Personally, I'd want a metal bracket and least 18" long to span and reinforce more of the joist if I was going to suspend an adult.
 
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