Removing muzzle device

Charlie

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I was reading through the thread on obnoxious muzzle devices a while ago, and it reminded me that my Ruger AR has a factory muzzle brake on it that makes it rather unpleasant to shoot. How is the best way to get that thing off the barrel so I can put something else on that is less offensive. I made some wooded jaws for my vice but was not able to keep the barrel from slipping in them before the brake would turn. Do I need better jaws that will not mar my barrel? Do I need to apply some heat? Any suggestions are welcome.

I can be shooting some of my other AR rifles with flash hiders or with no muzzle device at all and then go to the Ruger. What a surprise the first time I pull the trigger. It is not as much fun.
 
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If you can spend a few dollars, the MagPul BEV block is the bee's knees.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block


The idea behind the block is that it removes the torque from your barrel pin. Excessive torque when installing/removing a muzzle device, if you cant clamp that barrel tight enough, can shear that pin.

Aside from that, yes, heat can be helpful. And the proper wrench. Although, I've been known to just wrap the barrel in a piece of leather, clamp the crap out of it and use a pair of channel locks/slip joints on the flash hider. Especially if I don't care about damaging the device's finish.
 
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Heat for melting the loctite. However, if they used rockset, it wont matter how much heat you apply it's not coming off without soaking it in water overnight.


nah.....you only need about 30 ft-lbs of torque to break Rockset free. Just slip a piece of pipe over your wrench to make a long lever and you're good to go. Rockset withstands heat much much better than Locktite, but it's not "stronger".
 
nah.....you only need about 30 ft-lbs of torque to break Rockset free. Just slip a piece of pipe over your wrench to make a long lever and you're good to go. Rockset withstands heat much much better than Locktite, but it's not "stronger".
You don't think that's too much torque without some sort of barrel vice? The monkeys that put one of the brakes on my rifle must have done so with some kind of freakish sasquatch strength then, because I wasn't able to bust it free without soaking it. It spun right off pretty easily after that.
 
You don't think that's too much torque without some sort of barrel vice? The monkeys that put one of the brakes on my rifle must have done so with some kind of freakish sasquatch strength then, because I wasn't able to bust it free without soaking it. It spun right off pretty easily after that.


Yeah, I would definitely use a BEV Block or similar. But I wouldn’t necessarily wait for a soak.
 
Is there some type of clamp or set of jaws I can use around the 2.5 inches of the barrel sticking out of the front of the forearm so that I do not have to take the barrel off?
 
I have a set of barrel vise pads and I have a Bev block. Get the Bev block. No need to remove the barrel to use it.
 
Is there some type of clamp or set of jaws I can use around the 2.5 inches of the barrel sticking out of the front of the forearm so that I do not have to take the barrel off?
Leather belt and a vise.
 
Kind of a mute point since you already ordered it but the BEV block is the way to go. I had a buddy try to remove a flashider using an upper vice block clamp and messed up the little extension on the barrel that fits into the notch on the upper receiver because the device only held the upper receiver, not the barrel.
 
Kind of a mute point since you already ordered it but the BEV block is the way to go. I had a buddy try to remove a flashider using an upper vice block clamp and messed up the little extension on the barrel that fits into the notch on the upper receiver because the device only held the upper receiver, not the barrel.

Keep in mind though that the opposite relationship is true when you are torquing on/off the barrel nut. If you're worried about such things it's best to have both tools.
 
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