Replacement chainsaw chain

I did not say anywhere in a post that you needed a u shaped stone for square ground chain. The squared off stone is actually used on the popular plunge style grinders for the depth gauges or raker (you set the grinder at a full 90’)

I am very familiar with the process for square ground chain as well . You cannot sharpen square ground chain with a traditional plunge style grinder that is being discussed in this thread- regardless of the profile on the wheel Most guys that use square ground chain use hand files unless they happen to have an older Silvey grinder. However I am not sure why anyone outside of the Pacific Northwest would use square ground chain. That chain is best suited for large diameter softwood trees common in the northwest. For any type of hardwood and smaller softwood (pine) that we see in this part of the country- traditional round ground chain will work the best overall.
 
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This was quite a popular subject - for anyone that would like a FREE chainsaw maintenance and safety manual please send me a PM with your address. I have an almost full box of manuals leftover from the last class I gave down in FT Meyers for disaster clean up. The book is printed by Oregon, but the principals and methods are the same for any chainsaw (hand held). Covers how to sharpen (hand file and use a grinder) how to break and spin loops from a roll, guide bar maintenance…
 
Tailhunter said:
Unless of course you prefer square ground chain.
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I’ve had that one encounter with the grinder mentioned, it did square grind the chain, course I’d never used one and had no idea what I was looking at. It was still sharp as hell though
 
BrettB said:
This was quite a popular subject - for anyone that would like a FREE chainsaw maintenance and safety manual please send me a PM with your address. I have an almost full box of manuals leftover from the last class I gave down in FT Meyers for disaster clean up. The book is printed by Oregon, but the principals and methods are the same for any chainsaw (hand held). Covers how to sharpen (hand file and use a grinder) how to break and spin loops from a roll, guide bar maintenance…
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Those classes are very informative. I took a “Train the Trainer” class with Stihl several years ago, and I really enjoyed it
 
Burt Gummer said:
Those classes are very informative. I took a “Train the Trainer” class with Stihl several years ago, and I really enjoyed it
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Oh that’s one I have not taken. The head of Oregon tech services left us a couple of years ago and now heads up the same dept for Stihl - he wanted to get his family out of Portland area and Virginia Beach is nice

Over the years I have worked mostly for Oregon, but I did work for Husqvarna and Echo for awhile too - plus a couple lawnmower companies too.
 
BrettB said:
I did not say anywhere in a post that you needed a u shaped stone for square ground chain. The squared off stone is actually used on the popular plunge style grinders for the depth gauges or raker (you set the grinder at a full 90’)

I am very familiar with the process for square ground chain as well . You cannot sharpen square ground chain with a traditional plunge style grinder that is being discussed in this thread- regardless of the profile on the wheel Most guys that use square ground chain use hand files unless they happen to have an older Silvey grinder. However I am not sure why anyone outside of the Pacific Northwest would use square ground chain. That chain is best suited for large diameter softwood trees common in the northwest. For any type of hardwood and smaller softwood (pine) that we see in this part of the country- traditional round ground chain will work the best overall.
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Or a Simington.

Square ground seems to be faster.

But alas, my round files follow me everywhere.
 
The weather cooled down, well, at least for a few days so I got back to cutting.

I dulled my chain cutting down a 2ft+ stump and trying to keep it as level to the ground as possible.

I picked up 5/32" found files and just tried to sharpen my chain. I tried it by hand and without a contraption.

I don't think I did a good job because now the saw cuts like this.

And this was the second cut. The first was the same and I haven't encountered this with any new chain.

20231109_115519.jpg
 
Looks like you did one side of the chain good.
I could touch up a chain if it wasn't too bad by using chainsaw files. If it was really dull, I'd get someone else to do it using a contraption.
 
I would agree looks to be sharpened better one side causing it to drift.
 
Jp8819 said:
I would agree looks to be sharpened better one side causing it to drift.
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After some thought and head scratching, I think it was a combo of three things.

1) I absolutely didn't follow the sharpening diagram. I was filing in the opposite direction.

2) I didn't notice that my chain was sagging.

3) I was kinda forcing the bar into the log vs letting the weight of the saw do some of the work.

I tightened the chain, filed it in the right direction, and practiced patience with the battery powered saw and it did much better.
 
kcult said:
After some thought and head scratching, I think it was a combo of three things.

1) I absolutely didn't follow the sharpening diagram. I was filing in the opposite direction.

2) I didn't notice that my chain was sagging.

3) I was kinda forcing the bar into the log vs letting the weight of the saw do some of the work.

I tightened the chain, filed it in the right direction, and practiced patience with the battery powered saw and it did much better.
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Its easy to get one messed up and not cutting straight if your not careful. Its a art that takes a while to learn. I have done it before when i switch to my none dominate hand i tend not to fill as hard on that side so it would cut the same way. Like mentioned up thread if you get way off or it gets very bad try getting someone to grind it and true it back up and start again. A worn bar and loose chain will cause it as well but most of the time mine has been from me getting in a hurry and not filling properly.
 
Jp8819 said:
Its easy to get one messed up and not cutting straight if your not careful. Its a art that takes a while to learn. I have done it before when i switch to my none dominate hand i tend not to fill as hard on that side so it would cut the same way. Like mentioned up thread if you get way off or it gets very bad try getting someone to grind it and true it back up and start again. A worn bar and loose chain will cause it as well but most of the time mine has been from me getting in a hurry and not filling properly.
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To the weak hand filing, I have a vice mounted to my roll around tool box so I'm able to move it away from the wall and file both side of the chain with my strong hand. So im able to take that part ot of the equation.
 
Cut down a good size gum tree here at the house yesterday. Very first log I cut near the base i hit something that broke several teeth, and bent the rest.
@BrettB , where’s a good place to get Oregon chains? I’d like to try them
 
Burt Gummer said:
Cut down a good size gum tree here at the house yesterday. Very first log I cut near the base i hit something that broke several teeth, and bent the rest.
@BrettB , where’s a good place to get Oregon chains? I’d like to try them
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I got mine from Amazon.

Not sure what size you need, but here's an example.

Amazon product ASIN B08S7S2RTJ
 
BigWaylon said:
I bought one of these sharpeners several months ago and have used it once (to sharpen multiple chains) with great results.

www.harborfreight.com

Electric Chain Saw Sharpener

Amazing deals on this Electric Chain Saw Sharpener at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
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I have this- should have gotten one years ago.
 
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