Replacing interior basement wall covering. Choices.

fishgutzy

fishgutzy

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ripped off some water damaged wall covering in our finished basement.
Water was due to foundation cracks and crappy gutters noir repaired by a prior owner. I repair the gutter so the area is dry now.
The materials used were 1x3 pine strapping, Styrofoam insulation panels between, 3/8 dry wall over that, topped with a common wood paneling.
We will use the same paneling on top so we don't have to do the entire wall.
My question is, should I use the same materials underneath or will I be better off using 3/4" plywood against the cinder block wall, 3/8 ply wood in top of that with the top paneling?
My thinking is the the ply wood is easier to secure the layers. Considering a combination of the newer concrete screws to secure the base plywood to the brick. Then I can screw the next layers into that.
Plus I can strap plywood to the roof of our Jeep Patriot. Can't strap drywall. Ha!
The area is <12' so it is not much material.
Primed the brick with anti mold primer.

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Bad idea for direct contact with 3/4 plywood. I'd still use furring strips with solid foam insulation. And yes Virginia, you can carry drywall on a roof rack. Been there, done that. Buy drywall. Buy 4- 10' 2x4. Bring duct tape on this trip. Sandwich drywall between 2x4s. Duct tape free ends together. Place on roof rack and secure. Unload, use drywall, return 2x4s for credit.
 
Dave951 said:
Bad idea for direct contact with 3/4 plywood. I'd still use furring strips with solid foam insulation. And yes Virginia, you can carry drywall on a roof rack. Been there, done that. Buy drywall. Buy 4- 10' 2x4. Bring duct tape on this trip. Sandwich drywall between 2x4s. Duct tape free ends together. Place on roof rack and secure. Unload, use drywall, return 2x4s for credit.
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I'd end up keeping the 2x4's because there always seems to be a project.

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Yup, that works. But if you've ever wondered why some of the 10ft 2x4s have duct tape residue on them, now you know and you are sworn hereby to complete and total secrecy in the omerta of the contractor. :D
 
Jabroni said:
Wouldnt a vapor barrier be used here too?
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Good question. I would wonder whether a vapor barrier might hold moisture between it and the concrete wall causing mold issues? Think of an insulated wall, and for example the inside is 72F and outside it is 30F. Somewhere in between, in the insulation, you'll cross the dew point temperature and you don't want moisture at that point, hence you use a vapor barrier to keep the water inside. Or at least that is how it was explained to me in HVAC class.
 
bigfelipe said:
You should reseal the wall then add furring strips, then cover in drywall. I would use greenboard. Water will get in again. May as well be prepared for it...
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Thanks.
Got the 1x3 and Styrofoam insulation today.
This wall is in the walk out side. Water came in due to crappy gutters. That has been repaired. But next summer, we'll do completely new gutters.
Water ran down the wall in probably got into the wall via bolt holes at the deck level.


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