Replacing OSB sheathing

[random]

I had some water damaged OSB that I just had to replace in the garage (one of the main structural supports was rotted too - I've replaced that). I didn't want to remove the siding all the way to the corner, since only about a foot of OSB was bad, so I cut out the bad parts and patched the hole with new boards.

The problem I'm having is that the cuts on the existing OSB aren't straight (not that talented with a sawzall), so I'm left with crooked gaps in various places. The widest is maybe 3/4", average of most about 1/2"

I know its' not supposed to be completely tight, but I think these are probably too big. Is 1/2" ok to leave and install the wrap over that, or should I fill them? If I should fill them, what would you recommend?

 

[Scsmith42]

Wall sheathing is designed to provide shear strength on the outside of the house.

When replacing it, unless you splice the sheathing over a stud you are weakening the structure.

 

[Windini]

I had some water damaged OSB that I just had to replace in the garage (one of the main structural supports was rotted too - I've replaced that). I didn't want to remove the siding all the way to the corner, since only about a foot of OSB was bad, so I cut out the bad parts and patched the hole with new boards.

The problem I'm having is that the cuts on the existing OSB aren't straight (not that talented with a sawzall), so I'm left with crooked gaps in various places. The widest is maybe 3/4", average of most about 1/2"

I know its' not supposed to be completely tight, but I think these are probably too big. Is 1/2" ok to leave and install the wrap over that, or should I fill them? If I should fill them, what would you recommend?

Are the breaks/gaps over a stud? As in, are both edges fully supported by the framing? If they are solidly supported & attached, you can proceed with the housewrap & siding. Not sure that's exactly what you're asking - post a pic?

"Filling" OSB seams is, er, uncommon, in my experience.

OTOH, if you're talking about horizontal seams btw studs, then it would be a good idea to bridge the seams with a cleat of sorts. Rip some osb about 3" wide, cut it to fit lengthwise btw the suds, screw it to the back side of the existing OSB so that it hangs down below the seam, then install the new OSB & screw it to both the studs & your new cleat.

If you already have the new OSB installed... hope you used screws!

 

[random]

Wall sheathing is designed to provide shear strength on the outside of the house.

When replacing it, unless you splice the sheathing over a stud you are weakening the structure.

Unbacked gaps are pretty much all horizontal, except maybe one. I had to sister a few studs that weren't in great shape to avoid tearing out the entire wall. For the big vertical gaps I've put in additional studs. I'll recheck to be sure that's done consistently.

Are the breaks/gaps over a stud? As in, are both edges fully supported by the framing? If they are solidly supported & attached, you can proceed with the housewrap & siding. Not sure that's exactly what you're asking - post a pic?

That answers a very large part of my question, yes.

OTOH, if you're talking about horizontal seams btw studs, then it would be a good idea to bridge the seams with a cleat of sorts. Rip some osb about 3" wide, cut it to fit lengthwise btw the suds, screw it to the back side of the existing OSB so that it hangs down below the seam, then install the new OSB & screw it to both the studs & your new cleat.

And that answers the rest of it! So obvious now that you said it.

If you already have the new OSB installed... hope you used screws!

Always!

Owner-built kit home. They use staples (those 2" x 1/2" onse). Lots and lots and lots of staples. I swear I pulled out about 50 of them in a 2-foot section.