Ruger Mark ii reassembly

I never had an issue once I figured it out. Sometimes the lever was a little tough. Arguably, it was better than some other guns though.

Which one (gun) was it that had springs integrated to the grip panels and would fall out if you weren't careful?
 
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georgel said:
I never had an issue once I figured it out. Sometimes the lever was a little tough. Arguably, it was better than some other guns though.

Which one (gun) was it that had springs integrated to the grip panels and would fall out if you weren't careful?
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That sounds like some beretta nonsense
 
cmwcu said:
Just completed the reassembly of my new to me mark ii target. That was fun. Hope it gets easier!
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It is part of becoming an adult, congratultions.

oh, and bonus points if you didn’t scratch anything opening up the lever.
 
When it comes to opening up that lever a thin piece of ribbon slipped under it usually works quite well.
 
ncspeedsix said:
When it comes to opening up that lever a thin piece of ribbon slipped under it usually works quite well.
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Yes. I’ve often used a cleaning patch, and sometimes fishing line. Anything is better than a screw driver!
 
A paper clip is my item of choice to get ahold of the mainspring assembly.

My kung fu is strong when it comes to dealing with Ruger rimfire pistols. More than one forum member has come to my house with a box full of parts. I pour them a drink and put it back together. Sometimes they also have me install various aftermarket parts.

When it comes to the Mark III pistols, the key is to remove any of the magazine disconnect nonsense. Also the loaded chamber indicator should be removed and replaced. Tandemkross sells a hammer bushing that will eliminate the magazine disconnect nonsense. They also sell a loaded chamber indicator insert. The hammer bushing makes disassembly and assembly easier. The loaded chamber indicator removal often improves reliability.

If you've got an older pistol without all the "safety" nonsense, it really is just a matter of technique. The trick to getting the mainspring assembly in: Once you have the detent inserted in the upper, point the gun straight up in the air. The hammer strut will dangle straight down, allowing you to close the mainspring assembly on it. You can always tell you've got it lined up if you feel some resistance.

Believe it or not, it is actually possible to wear out the spring in the mainspring assembly. I've worn out three of them to the extent I was starting to get light strikes on ammo with thinner rims, like Eley. Went to Wirthwein and ordered new springs. It takes two people and a vice, but you CAN replace the springs and essentially refurbish those mainspring assemblies. The reason this is important is because the assembly costs $71. The springs are $5.

It is a good idea to replace the mainspring every 50k rounds.
 
I took an old toothbrush, removed the brush and filed the tip to pull up the lever on my Mk III. Tandemkross sells a tool.
 
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JimB said:
Recall the part #?
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Yessir, here you go:

Factory Ruger Mainspring for Mark 1, 2, 3 and 4

Factory Ruger mainspring for all Mark 1, 2, 3 and 4 pistols. Standard frame AND 22/45. Make sure you've still got you detent ball if you're replacing this on a Mark 1, 2 or 3, they commonly get launched in the process.
store.wirthweinguns.com

R-MK-MSP-SPG-2T.jpg

R-MK-MSP-SPG-5T.jpg


See that pin there on the right side of the first pic? You have to knock that pin out with a punch. But it's gonna be under some pressure. There are detents (probably best described as "projectiles" on either end of that spring. It'll end up in low earth orbit if you're not careful. This is a safety glasses situation.

Here is what the detent looks like:

R-MK-MSP-LKDT-2T.jpg


The trick to this is to get a friend to help you. Taking it apart is the easy bit. When you reinstall the new spring, you can use a very long, thin punch to press in on the detent to compress the spring. This will allow you to get the pin back in there.

So, the operation would be:

1. Your best bet is to put the assembly in a vice.
2. Put the inner detent, spring, and outer detent in the mainspring housing.
3. Then press the detent in with the thin punch.
4. You can get the pin started if you want. Sometimes it is a bit tight, so it should stay just barely in the housing, but not so deep that it would interfere with the spring and detents reinstallation.
5. Once you have the springs and detents in, and the pin ready to drive home, have someone ready to hit the pin with a small gunsmithing mallet.

The illustration below shows how the thin punch can be used:

spring illustration.png
 
ncspeedsix said:
The mark 2s are actually easier to reassemble than the mark 3s. The mark 3s have an extra step if I recall because you can’t pull the trigger back without a mag inserted.
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Had a 22/45 mark 3 for a short time, and disassembled it once. Remember having to insert a mag and turn upside down or something to that effect.
I don't remember it being as difficult as this new mark II. For the life of me, I could not get that hammer strut to sit right so that it would all work. About 4 beers later, it finally fell into place!
 
When it comes to light strikes though, the cause most of the time is a dirty chamber. If you shoot a lot in a session (and I shoot about 600 or so per) it'll get pretty dirty. You gotta scrub the chamber. Pulling a bore snake through won't do it. Gotta get some good solvent, wet the heck out of the barrel and chamber, and then use a .22 caliber brush on a pistol cleaning rod. I actually scrub mine back and forth, which I know some people say you should not do, and instead just go one direction.

You're best off scrubbing the heck out of it best way you can. Back and forth seems to do better. When that powder and so forth packs up in the chamber, it won't allow the round to seat well enough. If there's any room at all there, when the firing pin goes forward, it'll "cushion" the blow from the firing pin. That's often enough to give you a light strike.

Also, there is variation in the length of the firing pin. Sometimes you can mic them and find a slightly longer one. I don't care who makes it, you'll find variation.

If someone is getting light strikes with the Ruger, I'd try everything under the sun first before trying to replace the mainspring in the mainspring assembly. If you've done everything, have a really high round count, and the issue persists, then you'll have to go ahead and either buy a new assembly or replace the spring.

Here's a video of the disassembly/assembly that is short and to the point:



Any other operation, I'd suggest the Tandemkross videos because the quality is very high.

 
If you install a "blast shield" to keep crud from going down into the action, you'll have less need to disasemble.
I can usually get by with removing the bolt and cleaning the chamber and bore.
 
There is always this. Another company makes one as well, but can not remember their name:

www.eabco.net

Speed Strip Kits for Ruger Mk I, II, III, and 22/45- DISCONTINUED

ruger mk i, ii, iii, and 22/45 speed strip kits quick and easy disassembly; improved trigger & magazine performance. simple process to unscrew the bolt stop pin and remove the bolt. speed strip works with all three generations. speed strip kits for ruger mk i, ii, iii, and 22/45, majestic arms...
www.eabco.net www.eabco.net

Speed Strip® Kits Archives - Majestic Arms

Anyone familiar with the Ruger® .22 auto pistols knows it is extremely difficult to field strip and reassemble. ****NOT ANY MORE**** Majestic Arms® is the manufacturer and patent holder of The SPEED STRIP® kit for all Ruger® .22 Auto Pistols. Now improved, when installed, the SPEED STRIP® kit...
majesticarms.com majesticarms.com
 
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wscato said:
There is always this. Another company makes one as well, but can not remember their name:

www.eabco.net

Speed Strip Kits for Ruger Mk I, II, III, and 22/45- DISCONTINUED

ruger mk i, ii, iii, and 22/45 speed strip kits quick and easy disassembly; improved trigger & magazine performance. simple process to unscrew the bolt stop pin and remove the bolt. speed strip works with all three generations. speed strip kits for ruger mk i, ii, iii, and 22/45, majestic arms...
www.eabco.net www.eabco.net

Speed Strip® Kits Archives - Majestic Arms

Anyone familiar with the Ruger® .22 auto pistols knows it is extremely difficult to field strip and reassemble. ****NOT ANY MORE**** Majestic Arms® is the manufacturer and patent holder of The SPEED STRIP® kit for all Ruger® .22 Auto Pistols. Now improved, when installed, the SPEED STRIP® kit...
majesticarms.com majesticarms.com
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Too bad they were all out of stock
 
cmwcu said:
Hope it gets easier!
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🤣😂😝😅😁🤣🤪🤣😂😝😛😜 You need to take that act on the road! It’ll make you a fort! It never gets easier, to the point that I just spray it down with Gun Scrubber, take pick and clean what I can, and call it done. It’s a love/hate relationship with the MkI, Mk II and Mk IIIs. The Mk IVs are a dream to clean!
 
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I put a MK III back together and it wasn’t difficult. That of course was after any number of U Toob University and other videos, many times walking away for a day or 2, and a few choice words not appropriate for this venue. My next disassembly was a MK IV 22/45. I like to shoot a lot more than I like to clean, LOL.
 
I actually find it no more difficult than reinstalling a mainspring housing on a 1911. You just have to tinker with it until you get the dohicky to contact the thingamajig just right. I have only dealt with a Mark II.
 
Many years ago, my dad bought me a Mark II that I still have. When we bought it, the guy at the shop demonstrated how to disassemble and reassemble it. Then, he handed it to me and told me that the first time I took it apart to clean it, I could just bring it back to them to reassemble - because there was no way I'd ever figure it out the first time. We was wrong, I did figure it out. Took me a while, but I eventually figured it out.
 
East of Here said:
Many years ago, my dad bought me a Mark II that I still have. When we bought it, the guy at the shop demonstrated how to disassemble and reassemble it. Then, he handed it to me and told me that the first time I took it apart to clean it, I could just bring it back to them to reassemble - because there was no way I'd ever figure it out the first time. We was wrong, I did figure it out. Took me a while, but I eventually figured it out.
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It isn't that difficult. I don't know why there is such angst about it.
 
Mark ll is a pain in the butt, I personally don't take it apart and clean it every time I get done shooting. I spray bore blaster and WD 40 down the barrel and action blow it off with air compressor, wipe it off, and done! I know I should clean it the proper way, but I don't keep enough whiskey for the task!
 
QCumber said:
Mark ll is a pain in the butt, I personally don't take it apart and clean it every time I get done shooting. I spray bore blaster and WD 40 down the barrel and action blow it off with air compressor, wipe it off, and done! I know I should clean it the proper way, but I don't keep enough whiskey for the task!
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That's why we have 12yr old kids to do it for us 😀
 
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