Ruger mkiii ejection issues

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I have a Ruger mkiii that isn't behaving with any ammo. It won't reliable eject cases, empty or unfired. It pulls them put of the chamber but the ejector pops them off the extractor. Sometimes they dribble out, but usually stay on top of the next case causing a lot of cursing.

I have the bolt disassembled and cleaned and I'm shopping for replacement small springs. Does this extractor hook look right?

20221023_171647~2.jpg
Sorry so blurry but its zoomed way in.
 
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Ruger mark pistols of all types are my passion. I always install a volquartsen extractor. They often develop a carbon ring inside the chamber that’s difficult to remove. Verify with a drop test. Does a cartridge drop in and fall out with just gravity. Lastly in some cases, the breach face can get battered, or be contacted by a broken or faulty firing pin leaving a rough edge or dimple on the breech face.
 
Drop in a Volquartset extractor and be done with it.
 
@Average Joe and @Geezer are correct. Get a new VQ extractor.

While you are at it, just to be safe, get a new extractor spring and plunger as well. Also I would get a new recoil spring assembly for the bolt.

Springs get fatigued over time when compressed. Even low round count pistols that don’t get shot much but are really old may have springs that are simply worn out.

That extractor looks like it is rounded on the top edge. That seems strange to me as well. Makes me wonder if perhaps you have a combination of things and need to replace more than just the extractor.
 
@Average Joe and @Geezer are correct. Get a new VQ extractor.

While you are at it, just to be safe, get a new extractor spring and plunger as well. Also I would get a new recoil spring assembly for the bolt.

Springs get fatigued over time when compressed. Even low round count pistols that don’t get shot much but are really old may have springs that are simply worn out.

That extractor looks like it is rounded on the top edge. That seems strange to me as well. Makes me wonder if perhaps you have a combination of things and need to replace more than just the extractor.
@Studentofthegun is the man when it comes to rimfire shooting. You would be wise to follow his advice. I didn’t even think about possible spring issues.
 
Springs are wear items and usually one of the cheapest and easiest things to replace when issues like this pop up, I'm right with you there. I'll even add magazine springs to that list.

The rounded extractor though, is a question... it's not uneven or chipped. It looks like it was stoned or ground that way. I bought this NIB so there was no other owner who may have futzed with it. Does Ruger make their extractor hooks like that or do they start out with a sharp edge like the VQ version?
 
Springs are wear items and usually one of the cheapest and easiest things to replace when issues like this pop up, I'm right with you there. I'll even add magazine springs to that list.

The rounded extractor though, is a question... it's not uneven or chipped. It looks like it was stoned or ground that way. I bought this NIB so there was no other owner who may have futzed with it. Does Ruger make their extractor hooks like that or do they start out with a sharp edge like the VQ version?
Is it a MK III and older or MKIV model?
 
It is a MK III stainless 60th anniversary ed. made in 2009 (?)
 
It is a MK III stainless 60th anniversary ed. made in 2009 (?)
I haven’t seen a new extractor from the MK IVs. But I can tell you for certain, that is not how a MK III extractor should have come from the factory.
 
A polite call to Ruger is free.
And most often, on parts that only cost a very small amount, Ruger will send you for free.
All you'll be out is your time.
Why not call Ruger first,, ???
 
A polite call to Ruger is free.
And most often, on parts that only cost a very small amount, Ruger will send you for free.
All you'll be out is your time.
Why not call Ruger first,, ???
Ruger did two handguns for me that had issues for free. One of them was a blued Old Army that I bought used. They replaced the pitted cylinder and installed new nipples, cleaned it and tuned it for me, all parts for free.
 
Sometimes extractors get those rounded edges when people grind on them. The reason they do that is because there is not proper alignment between the bolt and the barrel.

Basically what is happening is: when the bolt goes forward, the extractor hits either the top or bottom edge of the extractor relief cut out in the breach face of the barrel. The barrel may either be out of spec or is not "clocked" right in the frame. I had this happen with a TacSol upper. For whatever reason, the bolt would not properly align. So I have to grind a bit on the extractor, rounding it up a bit.

The issue is that sometimes it will run fine, but sometimes it won't because the extractor crashing into the relief cut edge robs its forward inertia. That can keep the bolt from fully seating the next round and you could get a light strike.

So when I see that I wonder if maybe something is out of alignment or that extractor came out of another gun that had the issue I described.
 
Good Info but unlikely here, unless Ruger is reusing returned parts in the factory. This was new in the wrapper when I took it home from the dealer. no light strikes either.

I did some youtube studying last night and learned how to remove the LCI for cleaning. Never had that out since it was new and there was hard caked 22 smutz all in it. Cleaned it all up, reassembled w/o the actuator bit from the LCI and we are going to the range to test this evening.
 
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Good Info but unlikely here, unless Ruger is reusing returned parts in the factory. This was new in the wrapper when I took it home from the dealer. no light strikes either.

I did some youtube studying last night and learned how to remove the OCI for cleaning. Never had that out since it was new and there was hard caked 22 smutz all in it. Cleaned it all up, reassembled w/o the actuator bit from the OCI and we are going to the range to test this evening.
I can't stand those LCIs. All they seem to do is cause problems. I completely understand people wanting to keep them there for safety reasons, but I always get rid of them and pop in one of these. I've fixed several Rugers that were right out of the box exhibiting issues by getting rid of the LCI.

 
Good Info but unlikely here, unless Ruger is reusing returned parts in the factory. This was new in the wrapper when I took it home from the dealer. no light strikes either.

I did some youtube studying last night and learned how to remove the LCI for cleaning. Never had that out since it was new and there was hard caked 22 smutz all in it. Cleaned it all up, reassembled w/o the actuator bit from the LCI and we are going to the range to test this evening.

I can't stand it. I must know. Did it fix it up?

Ironically I just swapped out the LCI for a friend of mine this week. Plus installed a hammer bushing.
 
LCI alone did not fix it. After I replaced the extractor with a volquartsen and also refreshed all the bolt-related springs it runs great.

ETA I also installed a hammer bushing to delete the magazine disconnect, which I should have done years ago. Those things are really annoying!
 
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LCI alone did not fix it. After I replaced the extractor with a volquartsen and also refreshed all the bolt-related springs it runs great.

ETA I also installed a hammer bushing to delete the magazine disconnect, which I should have done years ago. Those things are really annoying!

I figured it would be safe to replace those springs because they do get fatigued.

Somehow I've managed to kill one rifle and many many springs over the past few years. :(

Glad you got it running!
 
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