If that's a 1958 Ruger,, it's an Old Model,, NOT the New Model.
There are internal differences. The Old Models are easier to work on.
I would do an online you-boob video search on how to disassemble them if you are a computer guy. FOr me,, I'd just contact Ruger,, and they have reprinted manuals that are FREE,, and that can help a bunch.
Make sure it's unloaded.
As noted above,, you first remove the grips.
Cock the hammer,, insert a pin (I use drill rod pieces I've saved,) and then while holding the hammer,, pull the trigger and the mainspring will be captured by the pin, and the hammer will be "floppy.
There are (5) frame screws. Taken them out,, remembering the location they came from.
Gently remove the g/f from the mainframe. Notice the trigger return spring & plunger behind the trigger. Also take notice of the small spring at the top of the grip frame. It pushes a pin that's inside the hole. Upon reassembly,, be careful to make sure this goes back in correctly,, AND DO NOT warp the spring.
After that,, you'll have (3) screws in the side of the mainframe,, that hold the hammer & trigger assy. Those can be removed & things slide out easily.
Cleaning is fine. But if you plan on polishing the hammer & trigger engagement areas,, BE VERY VERY careful to NOT actually polish the engagement surfaces unless you have the knowledge & skills to do this type of work. I've seen a BUNCH of ruined hammers & triggers by folks wanting to make them smoother. And spare parts aren't cheap. (about $125-$150 a set.)
Over on the Ruger Forum . com site,, under gunsmithing,, I think there's still a post by David Bradshaw that shows this engagement area. It's been a while since I've looked at it. It might also be for the New Model.
I fool with the OM Rugers a fair amount. I have a few books & manuals I always refer to just to make sure all goes as it should.
