Rusty old Mossberg 500’s

SteveM

SteveM

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I won an auction for two rusty old Mossberg 500 A’s, and I’ve started cleaning them up so I can refurbish them.

Need recommendations on how to remove the magazine tubes - both of them will not budge. I’ve heard that some of them were loctited in, so heat should help? It also could be rusty threads. They are both currently sprayed liberally with wd40 and I’m giving them time.

Same thing with one of the action tubes/forend - I can’t remove the nut to remove the forend so I can de-rust, clean, and reuse.

Any help?B72508FA-79A0-485E-B0C1-2D1EC29FEF98.jpegE275E794-0665-4A4E-984B-F3E8C9EC5BE1.jpeg5AB48D95-B586-4A8B-A3F3-D15180E6B74D.jpeg
 
Tri some tri flow I did 35 years ago & am still glad I found it.
Haven't broken a single Ex stud, bolt or nut on any Motorcycle or Automobile since I started using Tri flow in the shop.
It works on rust & seized parts, not WD 40 it is only a Water displacing liquid,


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Kroil may help that and a few heat cycles.

Are you wanting to reblue the tubes or just clean them up.
If so no real need to remove the tubes if you just want to clean and shoot.
I have used Evaporust on guns like that then oil and shoot. It will not hurt plastic but will stain wood.
 
Mr.Gadget said:
Kroil may help that and a few heat cycles.

Are you wanting to reblue the tubes or just clean them up.
If so no real need to remove the tubes if you just want to clean and shoot.
I have used Evaporust on guns like that then oil and shoot. It will not hurt plastic but will stain wood.
Click to expand...
One of them I must replace the spring, so I might as well do both. I am using evaporust on everything that I can, and I also have access to a sonic cleaner. I just made a tank so I can soak the barrels. One gun I will use oxpho blue, the other I will paint.
 
When I was doing surplus and old guns along with MG barrels I used PVC pipe and rubber end caps. Filled with parts, evaporust and cap it off. Rotate every night and after 3 to 7 days they looked nice.
That would work great for the barrels and tubes. You can also drive them to work a day or two. The heat in the summer and movement helps lift the rust.
 
Schattenreiter said:
Kroil. Best stuff I ever saw.
Click to expand...

I have friends, other wrench's who use Kriol, I have cans of it myself, however Tri Flow has PTFE & that makes a big difference.
My friends all use TF on rusted parts now after I gave them a bottle to try. After all what are friends for? TF It really works.

I use Tri flow on all my guns now after I shot an M1 National Match Rifle using only TF at Polk County Gun club in a Hot Azz July NMC without a hiccup after
other builders said, without Grease the M1 would not run very well or seize up.

I cleaned the entire Rifle with Brake cleaner aka Gun scrubber so it would only have TF for lubrication.
Remember the old white lithium Grease we did use years ago, well lubrication technology has lept past Gummy, sticky, grits & grime magnet called Grease.

I used TF for many years in my M1A for High Power matches & never had any problems, in fact TF helps ooze out grits & grime from your action & moving parts.
Cleaning your barrel with TF works to infect your barrel with PTFE & keeps metal fouling to a minimum.
 
Marturo said:
I have friends, other wrench's who use Kriol, I have cans of it myself, however Tri Flow has PTFE & that makes a big difference.
My friends all use TF on rusted parts now after I gave them a bottle to try. After all what are friends for? TF It really works.

I use Tri flow on all my guns now after I shot an M1 National Match Rifle using only TF at Polk County Gun club in a Hot Azz July NMC without a hiccup after
other builders said, without Grease the M1 would not run very well or seize up.

I cleaned the entire Rifle with Brake cleaner aka Gun scrubber so it would only have TF for lubrication.
Remember the old white lithium Grease we did use years ago, well lubrication technology has lept past Gummy, sticky, grits & grime magnet called Grease.

I used TF for many years in my M1A for High Power matches & never had any problems, in fact TF helps ooze out grits & grime from your action & moving parts.
Cleaning your barrel with TF works to infect your barrel with PTFE & keeps metal fouling to a minimum.
Click to expand...
I ordered a bottle, you're a good salesman!
 
Marturo said:
other builders said, without Grease the M1 would not run very well or sieze up.
Click to expand...
Having built a bunch and own a bunch more I would not have said that.
There are areas on all the M1's that need grease other parts needing oil.

That said if you use a good quality oil most will not see a problem. Pending your round counts and outside temp it will accelerate wear on the weapon. That and time between cleaning, round count between cleaning and oil being applied again all will come into play.

No set this is good and this is bad, some people only shoot 20 to 40 rounds then put it away for later in the year. Others are practicing each week and matchs in between.

I know this, some of the masters and CMP all call for grease. The original design called for grease. But I guess that was a different time and place along with use..

If it works use it.
 
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Tube is steel. Receiver is aluminum. They heat and cool at different rates and that can be your friend. Throw it in the freezer. Then hit it with a heat gun.
 
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Couldn’t find my torch after the move, so I borrowed one. Last night, I was able to get both magazine tubes unscrewed after a quick hit from the flame and I didn’t even need to use my new strap wrench!

Getting the action bar nut off the one that was sticky was much more difficult. I ended up sacrificing the forend that was on there, but finally got it off. It felt like it was cross threaded in addition to being loctited. Getting it back on will be a bitch!

On the other hand, I borrowed a sonic cleaner, so today all the internals are getting a bath and a scrub, then I’ll put all the bits back into the trigger body and bolt 🤞🏼🤞🏼

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"Kroil. Best stuff I ever saw." The Airline I retired from had it in 5 Gal cans, From Machine Shop to the Flight Line NOTHING and I Mean NOTHING worked better on Heat cycled Bolts and screws... Just Amazing stuff. Very Viscous works into threads and tight parts like a dream.
 
Not much has happened lately. I’ve used Evaporust on all the parts, and then used the ultrasonic cleaner on everything that would fit in it. I’m gonna put a light polish on most of the internal parts now that I have materials, and I will use a bench grinder wire brush on all the big pieces prior to painting.

Here’re the mock-ups prior to final cleaning and paint. Mine, the one with the adjustable stock, I’m thinking tan with black accents. The other will be all black, and it goes to my brother.

Might be finished this weekend? Maybe…

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SteveM said:
Not much has happened lately. I’ve used Evaporust on all the parts, and then used the ultrasonic cleaner on everything that would fit in it. I’m gonna put a light polish on most of the internal parts now that I have materials, and I will use a bench grinder wire brush on all the big pieces prior to painting.

Here’re the mock-ups prior to final cleaning and paint. Mine, the one with the adjustable stock, I’m thinking tan with black accents. The other will be all black, and it goes to my brother.

Might be finished this weekend? Maybe…

View attachment 486611

View attachment 486612
Click to expand...
Well done, back in service soon.
 
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