Safe lights?

Here's the distance the door opens where the sensor turns on the lights:

IMG_2198.JPG IMG_2199.JPG

Almost all the write-ups use motion sensors. The IR popped up in Amazon at some point while I was looking at options. I'm initially very pleased with how it works.

There was a battery that was about half the mAh rating for a little less ($24 vs $30), but I figured what the heck and bought the bigger one. For now it's just sitting on the shelf. May attach it to the side or the shelf in the future, or may just leave it there.

There are also battery packs (with the proper connector already wired in) that hold 8AA you can use. They come in 2-packs, and I'd almost considered buying two strings and really lighting it up...glad I didn't. And obviously there are plug in adapters if you have access to an outlet.

Without going back out to measure, I'd guess I have ~18" of overlap with the LED strip.

Very easy and inexpensive project. Let me know if you have any questions.

I will say the cob light switches are definitely a good and inexpensive option. Velcro, magnet, screw-in attachment options. 4-6 should light up most anything. I even considered seeing if I could open them up and get them to work off a single switch with some extra wires installed.
 
Nice diagonal rifle storage idea.
Still trying to figure out what works best. I have a couple more long guns that can go in. The middle "leg" of the support brace can't take much.

I started with all the ones on the right leaning on the left side instead. It was easier to maneuver them around each other that way, so they may get flip-flopped again.
 
Why in the world did I wait to do this?

Here's what I ordered:

View attachment 74810

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•6000mAh 12V battery, which came with y-splitter (so you can operate and charge at the same time) and charging adapter
•IR sensor (opted for this over motion detector)
•LED strip lights, 5m, cool white

And they're pupper approved!!

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This is the Drake safe I bought used, a year ago yesterday. It was ~20 years old. I redid the outside, but haven't done anything to the inside as far as cleaning. Moved the shelves down a little but that's it. Haven't even moved everything into it or figured out what to do about pistol or mag storage. Anyway...the install was <15 minutes. It was real quick for me compared to the TwangNBang version because my walls aren't lined with carpet or fabric. I was able to simply peel the backing off the light strip and stick it right to the wall.

Safe with overhead fluorescent on:

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Safe with overhead and current lighting solution, which is four of the dual cob light switches ($2.99/ea), each with 4AA batteries:

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Current lighting only:

View attachment 74815

Three on one side:

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One on the other. Kinda need one lower as well, but it's annoying enough to flip all four on and off each time. Granted, I probably could only use one depending on what I'm after.

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New LED strip lighting, and no overhead:

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Here's the battery pack and the IR sensor:

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ETA: in case it isn't clear, the sensor is attached to the bottom of the shelf. It's ~1" wide and 1/4" thick and has two screws and two dots/holes on the face
Nice work! Why did you choose the IR over motion? DO you have a link?
Thanks!
 
Nice work! Why did you choose the IR over motion? DO you have a link?
Thanks!
Sensky BS011 12v 24v DC 3A automatic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVFG9S6

Just seemed simpler. No adjusting the sensitivity. No worrying about waving my hand in the right spot. No trying to figure out what a good amount of time for the light to be on is.

Door opens more than a couple inches, light comes on...and stays on until I close the door (or flip the power switch).
 
Sensky BS011 12v 24v DC 3A automatic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVFG9S6

Just seemed simpler. No adjusting the sensitivity. No worrying about waving my hand in the right spot. No trying to figure out what a good amount of time for the light to be on is.

Door opens more than a couple inches, light comes on...and stays on until I close the door (or flip the power switch).
Ordered, thanks!
 
Ordered, thanks!
Installation tip...

Put it as close to the edge as possible. If you put it dead center, or close to the center, you'll probably have the lights shut off when you lean into the safe to get anything. I had mine turn off a couple times today when my head got right in front of the sensor.

If I could do it over, I'd probably put it on the hinge side of the safe. But I'd test it first to make sure I didn't have to open the door way more than needed to have the lights come on.

After typing that...I may even be able to turn it "out" a little so it still catches the door but I'm less likely to be right in front of it. Might have to test that out tomorrow.
 
Installation tip...

Put it as close to the edge as possible. If you put it dead center, or close to the center, you'll probably have the lights shut off when you lean into the safe to get anything. I had mine turn off a couple times today when my head got right in front of the sensor.

If I could do it over, I'd probably put it on the hinge side of the safe. But I'd test it first to make sure I didn't have to open the door way more than needed to have the lights come on.

After typing that...I may even be able to turn it "out" a little so it still catches the door but I'm less likely to be right in front of it. Might have to test that out tomorrow.
In the reviews someone said to have it as close to the opening part of the door. Maybe move it back a bit further under the shelf.
 
Moved the sensor over a couple inches. It's basically at the edge of the door opening. Lights still shut off, but the door only has to open about half as far now. Very pleased.
 
I use cheap flat motion sensor lights from Costco. Run on AAs and light up when I open the safe. Just double side taped wherever I wanted them.
 
Received and installed?
OK BW, I thought I was good to go and went to install it this morning. I is confruzed.... What else did you buy to connect the battery pack?
Does it matter what side of the sensor is the power side?
The battery pack and the strip lights are both female connectors. It looks like I need to make a M/M jumper from the batt to the switch.
IMG_6615.jpg
 
OK BW, I thought I was good to go and went to install it this morning. I is confruzed.... What else did you buy to connect the battery pack?
Does it matter what side of the sensor is the power side?
The battery pack and the strip lights are both female connectors. It looks like I need to make a M/M jumper from the batt to the switch.
View attachment 76677
Battery pack came with a splitter, F on one end and M/M on the other. One M end goes into the battery pack, one M goes to the sensor's F cord. The F end is what the charging cord goes into when you need to recharge (as it will charge and operate lights at the same time.

Other end of the sensor is M, and should plug into the F end of the light strip. So imagine this setup with the sensor inline between the splitter and the light strip:

IMG_2285.PNG



Are you missing the splitter cable?

IMG_2284.PNG
 
Battery pack came with a splitter, F on one end and M/M on the other. One M end goes into the battery pack, one M goes to the sensor's F cord. The F end is what the charging cord goes into when you need to recharge (as it will charge and operate lights at the same time.
Other end of the sensor is M, and should plug into the F end of the light strip. So imagine this setup with the sensor inline between the splitter and the light strip:
View attachment 76682
Are you missing the splitter cable?
View attachment 76681
Gotcha, mine didn't come with one, I already had the battery pack collecting dust on my shelf.
It's been ordered.
Thanks!
One thing I did notice (when i took it to a customer to do a demo), the switch MUST be on when charging my battery pack. :confused:
 
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I plugged in the lights suggested by TwangBang and they weren't as bright as I expected (24W 300 lumens per meter) I'll probably keep them since they'll be running off of a battery. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non...00HSF65MC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

After a bit of research I learned what the numbers (2835 (2.8mm x 3.5mm) means.
https://hitlights.com/blogs/news/numbers-and-leds-what-does-2835-3528-and-5050-mean

These lights are 40W, 720 lumens per meter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQV6Q4I/ref=emc_b_5_t
 
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I plugged in the lights suggested by TwangBang and they weren't as bright as I expected (24W 300 lumens per meter) I'll probably keep them since they'll be running off of a battery. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non...00HSF65MC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

After a bit of research I learned what the numbers (2835 (2.8mm x 3.5mm) means.
https://hitlights.com/blogs/news/numbers-and-leds-what-does-2835-3528-and-5050-mean

These lights are 40W, 720 lumens per meter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQV6Q4I/ref=emc_b_5_t
Interesting. Mine is 24W, 300 2835 LEDs, and seems to be plenty bright for me. The box lists two other options:

1. A 36W version with only 150 LEDs, but the bigger 5050 size.
2. A 72W version with 300 of the 5050 LEDs.

Can't imagine how bright that last one would be. But I should also get better battery life. :cool:
 
I may not have thought this all the way through.

Anybody else use either a motion detector or IR sensor with a battery pack (instead of power plug)?
 
Received and installed?
Interesting. Mine is 24W, 300 2835 LEDs, and seems to be plenty bright for me.
Can't imagine how bright that last one would be. But I should also get better battery life. :cool:
After placing the strip in the safe, it's plenty bright and the battery will last longer.
Once lit I discovered a rear self support was in place, but not locked in/supporting weight- 1st win for the new lights. With better lighting it was easy to organize everything as well, well worth the $20!
If one uses the T pins, I cut them like so, the middle pin is what you don't want.
IMG_6632.JPGIMG_6643.JPG IMG_6646.JPG
 
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After placing the strip in the safe, it's plenty bright and the battery will last longer.
Once lit I discovered a rear self support was in place, but not locked in/supporting weight- 1st win for the new lights. With better lighting it was east to organize everything as well, well worth the $20!
If one uses the T pins, I cut them like so, the middle pin is what you don't want.
Let me know how battery life goes. I was expected months and months out of my 6000mAh battery due to the low draw of the LEDs. But mine was completely dead last weekend when I opened the safe. Probably hadn't run the lights more than 10-15 minutes total.

I think it's the IR sensor being a constant low draw, as opposed to it only "working" when you open the door. Not sure if the motion detector works the same way or not. The IR might be a good option for those that plug in, but for the battery folks it might not work very well. :mad:

But let me know how yours does...there's always a chance I have a bad battery or sensor.
 
@BigWaylon if you determine that it is indeed the IR sensor’s draw that’s killing your battery and want to get rid of it, I’ll gladly trade you my motion sensor plus a few bucks.

Or if you just want to try my motion sensor to help trouble shoot lmk.
 
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My battery powered remote controlled lights are still chugging along!
They can't be working too well if you're unable to find that new P365 and take it out for a spin. :p
 
Let me know how battery life goes. I was expected months and months out of my 6000mAh battery due to the low draw of the LEDs. But mine was completely dead last weekend when I opened the safe. Probably hadn't run the lights more than 10-15 total.

I think it's the IR sensor being a constant low draw, as opposed to it only "working" when you open the door. Not sure if the motion detector works the same way or not. The IR might be a good option for those that plug in, but for the battery folks it might not work very well. :mad:

But let me know how yours does...there's always a chance I have a bad battery or sensor.
My battery was dead a week later, it could also be the batt pack has an LED indicating when the pack is turned on. I need to disable the LED on the pack and try again.
 
My battery was dead a week later, it could also be the batt pack has an LED indicating when the pack is turned on. I need to disable the LED on the pack and try again.
I checked mine a couple days ago and it went from 5 to 2 in about a week. I need to check to see if they're always on, or just when the LED strip activates.
 
@BigWaylon if you determine that it is indeed the IR sensor’s draw that’s killing your battery and want to get rid of it, I’ll gladly trade you my motion sensor plus a few bucks.

Or if you just want to try my motion sensor to help trouble shoot lmk.
I'm gonna ditch the IR sensor. Great idea, but don't think it's gonna work with the battery. Charged it up again and I think I got 12 days out of it. Opened the door twice in that time, for a couple seconds each time, just to check to see if the lights came on.

Considering a magnetic contact switch, but will gladly swap you straight up for the motion sensor to see if that allows the battery to last as long as I expect.
 
I'm gonna ditch the IR sensor. Great idea, but don't think it's gonna work with the battery. Charged it up again and I think I got 12 days out of it. Opened the door twice in that time, for a couple seconds each time, just to check to see if the lights came on.

Considering a magnetic contact switch, but will gladly swap you straight up for the motion sensor to see if that allows the battery to last as long as I expect.
Please post how that works. I’m simply turning the battery switch on, not as cool, but I can see everything now.
 
Please post how that works. I’m simply turning the battery switch on, not as cool, but I can see everything now.
Had the same thought. Flip the battery switch. Just trying to see if there's an inexpensive way to make it automatic.
 
I'm gonna ditch the IR sensor. Great idea, but don't think it's gonna work with the battery. Charged it up again and I think I got 12 days out of it. Opened the door twice in that time, for a couple seconds each time, just to check to see if the lights came on.

Considering a magnetic contact switch, but will gladly swap you straight up for the motion sensor to see if that allows the battery to last as long as I expect.
Deal! I’ll text you to work out a time.
 
Jerz and I swapped sensors on Tuesday. Motion sensor seems to trigger as I open the door. Not sure exactly how long it stays on, but it definitely turns off after a few minutes.

Guess we'll see what kind of drain on the battery it does.
 
The IR sensor works great for me! Since my safe’s interior is a dark gray, the door wasn’t getting close enough for the IR to trigger off. Lighter colors work better so I put a 3”x3” piece of white duct tape on my door in front of the sensor and viola’! It no turns on and off when I crack the door open about 1”.

Thanks again @BigWaylon !
 
I picked up one of the cheap Cannons at Black Friday special because I needed a smaller safe in a more accessible location. I put this set-up in it:

The Lights
The Switch

Ambient Lighting Only:


LED Lights On:


Proximity Switch:


Power Strip:


Light Strip Off:


Light Strip On:


A video of the switch & lights in action:
 
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Permission to be lazy, please, sir... got links?

I have a motion activated led strip in one safe, and it works well. In the other safe, the strip doesn't adhere well, and it broke in half. :(
 
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