Setting crimp for target loads - any favorite methods?

[Jmoser]

Was tweaking crimp on my .38s wadcutters in the Dillon 650 - had to recalibrate when I moved from another press.

Have some Federal Gold Medal Match to visually compare but was curious how you all go about it from scratch.
In the past I have measured ID of a sized case and compared to same empty case thru the crimp die; usually looking for .002" or so but hard to reliably measure with calipers.

Any favorite setup tricks? Not using the Lee FCD - just the standard Dillon crimp die.

 

[Toprudder]

I don't load many 38spl, and none of them were wadcutters, so I can't speak from much experience. I will comment on my thoughts, though.

First of all, do you need to crimp? If we are talking wadcutters, the bullet is set deep into the case and there is a lot of surface area contact between the bullet and case. Neck tension alone may be enough to prevent bullet jump.

Second, is the powder one that is hard to ignite? If not, then a crimp may not be needed to help with full ignition.

I use the Lee FCD for my 38spl loads. I use the collet style crimper for my 357 loads (I shoot way more 357 than I do 38spl).

 

[Jmoser]

Feeding these thru a 52 semi auto; even for revolver speedloader you don't want a sharp corner / straight case mouth edge for speedlaoders.

Neck tension aside [plus variabiity of mixed brass of all types] it also helps consistency with ignition - lighter target loads can actually be very sensitive. .38 cases are big inside even with WC seated and lighter target loads; I have less than 2.4 gr here and go down to 1.6 for special very short range rapid fire courses. Not uncommon to find quite a bit of unburned powder.

Heavy loads and magnums get Lee FCD and a heavy crimp - these just need a kiss from the die.

 

[Charlie]

Eyeball it. Start with almost no crimp and adjust your die a little bit at a time until you get the crimp you want.

 

[georgel]

Generally, I find there's too many variables in reloading for anything to be written in stone. Brass thickness, ductility, case length, etc. Then the variability in powder, primers, etc., even press and dies. And in revolvers (not your case) each chamber. Everything is variable. For me, the proof is in the pudding. I pick a recipe and go shoot it. Then I'll tweak a variable, like crimp and go shoot some more to see if it improves. I note what works best and build a reference bullet without powder or primer, that's used for die setup. If I'm setting up a new die set or have to recalibrate, I put the reference bullet in the shell holder with ram up and screw the die down, with the stem and lock ring backed off. I turn it until the die touches the case firmly and tighten the lock ring. Then I screw the stem down until it touches the reference bullet and lock it down. Even then, I run a sample seating and tweak as necessary. That's just how I do it anyway.
I really like the Lee carbide FCD's. The have a sizing ring that resizes the round a final time to make sure things are consistent. Important in an auto. I also prefer to crimp separately as the idea of closing the case down while your trying to shove something in it never made sense to me, especially with lead bullets.
With wadcutters, I haven't loaded them in a very long time, but when I did, I started with a straight crimp and worked down from there looking for improvement. For a 52 I might even look at a taper crimp. I believe that's built into the Lee dies as a combo with the roll crimp.

Just my .02