Hi. I wasn't sure exactly where to post this. Apologies if this is the wrong board. Recently a question regarding steel targets came up. The question had to do with distance and thickness of the targets. I have both read and heard that usually it is suggested that the targets be 100 or 200 yards. (200 or 600 feet if my math is correct) and the thickness should be 3/8" AR500 steel. I have also heard that you should not shoot them with a rifle caliber such as .308, etc. Pistol caliber closer. Not sure about the exact specifics. Opinions, corrections?
Shooting steel targets
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Jeppo
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After a bunch of research, I settled on a minimum of 11 yards for pistols on 3/8ā AR500. All mine are angled down at around 25 degrees.
We shoot nothing but steel here. From 3 Feet to 300 yards. It's all in the angle. Steel Must be smooth. NO dimpled up steel inside 50 yards for rifle.
Velocity is hard on steel. Steel is hard on steel. I've shot free swinging 3/8" AR500 at 30yds or so with .223 and .308 little dimpling. At 50yds or further it gets very little wear.
From a safety stand point shoot enough steel and you will get hit by something. Usually at shortish range the biggest spall and ricochets come from low velocity stuff. The fast stuff disinegrates. Eyepro mandatory for everyone nearby. Don't put anything of value off to the side of a steel target.
From a safety stand point shoot enough steel and you will get hit by something. Usually at shortish range the biggest spall and ricochets come from low velocity stuff. The fast stuff disinegrates. Eyepro mandatory for everyone nearby. Don't put anything of value off to the side of a steel target.
After selling steel targets for a little while during college, and still shooting my same steel years later, I would strongly suggest 1/2ā AR500.
1/2ā AR500 is a forever target. 3/8 will do quite well but you will be replacing it after a number of years if you use it for a lot of rifle within 100yd. I shoot mine with everything as close as 10yd without a second thought. For safety and longevity, always have the steel swinging.
I had guys in SC, TX, and Alaska test my 1/2ā steel as close as 15yd with everything from 5.7FN, 6.8spc, M855, 30-06 black tip, and 50bmg fmj(at 50yd). All barely put a dimple in the steel, whereas Iāve seen 3/8ā start to look like a bowl.
1/2ā AR500 is a forever target. 3/8 will do quite well but you will be replacing it after a number of years if you use it for a lot of rifle within 100yd. I shoot mine with everything as close as 10yd without a second thought. For safety and longevity, always have the steel swinging.
I had guys in SC, TX, and Alaska test my 1/2ā steel as close as 15yd with everything from 5.7FN, 6.8spc, M855, 30-06 black tip, and 50bmg fmj(at 50yd). All barely put a dimple in the steel, whereas Iāve seen 3/8ā start to look like a bowl.
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Just fyi...I got mine off Amazon, and have had zero issues. They are 3/8. I got 2 6", 2 8", and 2 10" for 67 bucks. Had to add bolts and bought stands pieces. Conduit, hooks, plates and all cost me about 150 bucks.
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mikep7m10
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Friend of mine had a 50bmg that we shot steel at 300 yds. It was years ago so I'm not sure of the rating but it was 5/8" and not AR500. I shot a piece of steel with lead and my friend shot armor piercing. Mine shot bent the steel and embedded the bullet in the steel - it's still there. The AP round cut a hole that looked like it was drilled.
DrPhudd
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Swinging is a good compromise between safety and longevity. Stationary is better (for safety). It is all about the initial resistance to moving. Poppers resist falling, chains and spring mounts resist initial movement as well. Lead on stationary steel yields fluid dynamics (splash). You run into trouble when the plate has no resistance to falling. Like standing on a T post. the bullet holds together as the steel moves away, until it rebounds (while still somewhat intact). Also divets, bolt heads, etc. can send chunks back.
BlackGun
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Agree with all of this. For rifle I shoot swingers that are small so the projectile is always moving forward and thru the target. Anything inside of 100 yards above rimfire is not safe. Pistol with angled or swinging I feel safer out to at least 15 yards. I have got splattered with lead fragments with pistols while I shot.
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Usually if something hits you shooting pistol steel up close it is a bullet jacket fragment rather than lead. If it is under your control, lead, coated, or plated bullets wonāt bounce nearly as much stuff back at you as FMJ. Lead just literally splashes like water on steel. Copper jackets (or worse, steel jackets) will behave very badly. Try to avoid those. If you are RSOing a match though, just have good safety glasses. I do it all the time but very occasionally one will draw blood. I wonder what would happen if one of those hit a neck vein :-(
Other things about steel - carriage bolts on the target face will splash less than hex head bolts.
Anything welded on a target plate will break if you shoot it. I have worn out good strong welds with 22LR but that does last quite a while. Pistol not so much and welded rifle targets are hopeless.
Another reason not to weld is that the plates will cup away from the impact side as they accumulate hits. You want to be able to turn the plate around the other way so it lasts longer (cup it back the other way, and twice the surface area to accumulate little pits from big or very fast rounds). So realize that the cool hostage flipper target is going to fall apart after you shoot it a while.
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Other things about steel - carriage bolts on the target face will splash less than hex head bolts.
Anything welded on a target plate will break if you shoot it. I have worn out good strong welds with 22LR but that does last quite a while. Pistol not so much and welded rifle targets are hopeless.
Another reason not to weld is that the plates will cup away from the impact side as they accumulate hits. You want to be able to turn the plate around the other way so it lasts longer (cup it back the other way, and twice the surface area to accumulate little pits from big or very fast rounds). So realize that the cool hostage flipper target is going to fall apart after you shoot it a while.
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This thread is the best info on shooting steel you will find. Usually you get a lot of info from people who have never shot it in the conditions ya'll describe.
Caught a steel jacket off a swinger from about 90 yards.
Burned a perfect circle right into my side, without even leaving a mark on my shirt. Was strange.
Caught a .22 slug in the shoulder at slackers place. Prob from 15 yards. The impact was surprising given that it had lost a ton of energy.
Still felt like I got hit my a baseball. Left a good bruise and broken skin.
Have caught many small pieces here and there.
Shooting suppressed on steel is an eye opener.
Pop
Splat
Then the shower of lead falling all around
Burned a perfect circle right into my side, without even leaving a mark on my shirt. Was strange.
Caught a .22 slug in the shoulder at slackers place. Prob from 15 yards. The impact was surprising given that it had lost a ton of energy.
Still felt like I got hit my a baseball. Left a good bruise and broken skin.
Have caught many small pieces here and there.
Shooting suppressed on steel is an eye opener.
Pop
Splat
Then the shower of lead falling all around
Ok, I've read enough here (and joined Woody's) to know that i want to get some 1/2 inch AR500. Checked Amazon and eBay prices don't seem too bad for something that will last a long time.
Question, is there any place local (to Cary) that has competitive prices?
Question, is there any place local (to Cary) that has competitive prices?
Jeppo
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Iāve bought all mine from EBay, waiting until they offered a 15% code. Iāve been amazed at the low cost that way.
I have a bit of frangible ammo Iām going to shoot at @BatteryOaksBilly ās place next time
That helps a lot with safe distances
That helps a lot with safe distances
Donnie D
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I bought all mine from shootingtargets7.com. At the time they had the best deals I could find. Mine are all 3/8" AR500 and range from 3" to 16" diameter. I have three 10" with a 3" reactive center. I shoot them with everything from .22 to .308. The high power rifles I shoot them from 100 yards out. They have held up great.
BlackGun
Pimpin Aināt Easy
https://targetsolutionsusa.com/ There are some unique targets here and he focuses on ease of mobility if you decide to take them to another location.
I bought a couple boxes in 556. I have yet to use them. I wanted to use them for practicing a drive by.
AR 500 material welded properly ( pre-heat the steel to correct temp, followed by quality mig welding) will last along time. Correct pre-heating is paramount to making the welds last.
I know of some 6" and 8" diameter 3/8" plates used in USPSA matches. They were rotated every time they were set. So far,they have thousands of handgun rounds on them with no ill effects, broken welds, or cupping.
I know of some 6" and 8" diameter 3/8" plates used in USPSA matches. They were rotated every time they were set. So far,they have thousands of handgun rounds on them with no ill effects, broken welds, or cupping.
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Neat. So just to be clear. 3/8" for pistol rounds and 1/2" for rifles. Smooth with no edges and at an angle. Swinging plates are best. 100 or 200 yards are fairly safe. What about those steel animal shape targets?
And 1/4 for rimfire.
Animal shapes are ok but wonāt last as long as simple circles. Arguably more likely to send a top edge hit up instead of down since there is more top edge, and closer to center.
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I'm going to go against what most are saying here but it is what I do, don't mean anyone else has to do it.
I go to a local place that sells steal remnants and they charge by the pound. I can get several pieces of steal for like $20-$30 and they last for several years for me. They are not AR500 but if I can buy 4-5 pieces for $20 and your paying $60 for one piece, I can shoot for years and years on that $60 at multiple targets, not just one.
Sure, they end up breaking eventually, they just get replaced.
I do shoot .223 at them but that is like at 75 so I am not worried about frags.
Pistols we shoot at steal at less than 20 yards and no damage to the steal at all.
I go to a local place that sells steal remnants and they charge by the pound. I can get several pieces of steal for like $20-$30 and they last for several years for me. They are not AR500 but if I can buy 4-5 pieces for $20 and your paying $60 for one piece, I can shoot for years and years on that $60 at multiple targets, not just one.
Sure, they end up breaking eventually, they just get replaced.
I do shoot .223 at them but that is like at 75 so I am not worried about frags.
Pistols we shoot at steal at less than 20 yards and no damage to the steal at all.
Never really thought their prices were that good, but haven't been in for a while.
I have this in my cart on ebay: 4 AR500 Steel Target Gong 1/2" x 6" and 4 AR500 Steel Target Gong 1/2" x 4" for a grand total, with free shipping, of $82.48. Unless someone knows of something better, this also saves me driving around only to come home and get this anyway.
Thanks for all the info.
Jeppo
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Must have been 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gen S&W...lolMy first trip to FG&G was to meet a guy in the parking lot to buy a gun. I got there early and, by the time he showed up, Iād already bought two other guns. Thatās a dangerous place!
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Jeppo
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After we made the deal for the gun Iād gone there to buy, the guy asked if I could guess why heād set the meeting for 6pm. Of course I had no idea. He responded that he didnāt want to be anywhere near the store while it was still open. Smart guy.
If you buy based on stickered price, they are meh...Talk to the guys for a few, and they will help you out, especially if it's been on the shelf for awhile. It also helps that i always let them know I traveled 3 hours to get there...even though I was possibly, but not always traveling through for work.
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LOL...guess you found that one out the hard way...
After we made the deal for the gun Iād gone there to buy, the guy asked if I could guess why heād set the meeting for 6pm. Of course I had no idea. He responded that he didnāt want to be anywhere near the store while it was still open. Smart guy.
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Jeppo
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Perfect example. The end posts will be the first thing to be replaced. Mine have been "sistered" many times.
Me too.