Stuck Can

Derek8404

Derek8404

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Was shooting my FN502 with My Occulus .22 attached last weekend and I was mainly testing reliability of the pistol with various types of ammo. I fired probably about 200 rounds through it at a pretty quick rate, like as fast as I could load the mag and dump it. We were out in the desert in my SxS and the wife was ready to head to a different spot as it was getting hot where we were at. I didn’t take the fan off, because it was pretty warm to the touch and I intended to shoot some more at the next spot. Well that didn’t happened and I when I went to take it off the next day I found out that that thing is STUCK on there good.

I can’t budge it. I sprayed some cleaner in to try and loosen things up a bit, that didn’t work. Also tried a vise so I could get some leverage on it and that didn’t work either. My next thought is to take it out and dump a bunch of rounds through it again and try to get it off while it’s hot…..

Any ideas??
 
Heating is back up is usually the best option. Usually best to at least try to crack it loose before packing it up…in this case even if you thought you were gonna shoot it again.

Does the Oculus have any kind of wrench flats or notches for a spanner wrench to engage?
 
Derek8404 said:
Was shooting my FN502 with My Occulus .22 attached last weekend and I was mainly testing reliability of the pistol with various types of ammo. I fired probably about 200 rounds through it at a pretty quick rate, like as fast as I could load the mag and dump it. We were out in the desert in my SxS and the wife was ready to head to a different spot as it was getting hot where we were at. I didn’t take the fan off, because it was pretty warm to the touch and I intended to shoot some more at the next spot. Well that didn’t happened and I when I went to take it off the next day I found out that that thing is STUCK on there good.

I can’t budge it. I sprayed some cleaner in to try and loosen things up a bit, that didn’t work. Also tried a vise so I could get some leverage on it and that didn’t work either. My next thought is to take it out and dump a bunch of rounds through it again and try to get it off while it’s hot…..

Any ideas??
Click to expand...

You can also heat it up with a heat gun if you don't feel like using ammo.
 
Also…do you have anything on the threads?

I usually have Teflon tape on my pistol/rimfire threads. It helps it from coming loose, but also seems to make it a little easier to remove when needed.
 
BigWaylon said:
Heating is back up is usually the best option. Usually best to at least try to crack it loose before packing it up…in this case even if you thought you were gonna shoot it again.

Does the Oculus have any kind of wrench flats or notches for a spanner wrench to engage?
Click to expand...

I’ll make that a habit for the future.

No, only tool is to take off the end cap with.
 
BigWaylon said:
Also…do you have anything on the threads?

I usually have Teflon tape on my pistol/rimfire threads. It helps it from coming loose, but also seems to make it a little easier to remove when needed.
Click to expand...

No, I didn’t this time, but I knew that and had ordered some from Amazon….just didn’t utilize it on this trip unfortunately
 
Derek8404 said:
I’ll make that a habit for the future.

No, only tool is to take off the end cap with.
Click to expand...
Looking at pics I’m not sure a spanner wrench would stay in contact with any of those notches well enough to either (1) apply a steady force to break it loose or (2) allow you to knock the wrench with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer.

A lot of times jarring blows like that will pop it loose better than constant pressure.

I’ve never actually used them (don’t own any), but I understand from others that these are the bees knees…

energeticarms.com

Vox Blox Vise Soft Jaws - Energetic Armament

energeticarms.com energeticarms.com

Possibly do something similar with a wooden block. I’ve done that method before to hold a barrel. Not sure if you were clamping the gun in the vise and trying to spin the can, or clamping the can and trying to spin the gun.
 
Scsmith42 said:
Put a little penetrating oil on it and leave it for a day.
Click to expand...
Saturday night, I was unable to remove a Griffin Armament Cam-Lok adapter off a Ruger 22/45. I let it soak with penetrating oil over night and it came off with little effort on Sunday. Was planning to use a heat gun if it had not worked.
 
BigWaylon said:
Looking at pics I’m not sure a spanner wrench would stay in contact with any of those notches well enough to either (1) apply a steady force to break it loose or (2) allow you to knock the wrench with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer.

A lot of times jarring blows like that will pop it loose better than constant pressure.

I’ve never actually used them (don’t own any), but I understand from others that these are the bees knees…

energeticarms.com

Vox Blox Vise Soft Jaws - Energetic Armament

energeticarms.com energeticarms.com

Possibly do something similar with a wooden block. I’ve done that method before to hold a barrel. Not sure if you were clamping the gun in the vise and trying to spin the can, or clamping the can and trying to spin the gun.
Click to expand...
I’ll have to pic one of those up. Thanks.
 
Scsmith42 said:
Put a little penetrating oil on it and leave it for a day.
Click to expand...
GaryS said:
Saturday night, I was unable to remove a Griffin Armament Cam-Lok adapter off a Ruger 22/45. I let it soak with penetrating oil over night and it came off with little effort on Sunday. Was planning to use a heat gun if it had not worked.
Click to expand...
If you have run dirtier rimfire ammo (Remington, Aquila or such) and think it could be slight carbon (or lead) buildup locking up the threads try a medicine dropper of cleaner like Bore Tech Eliminator or Rimfire Blend. A few drops wicking into to the threads can breakup stuff just enough to get it to turn loose.
 
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NCFubar said:
If you have run dirtier rimfire ammo (Remington, Aquila or such) and think it could be slight carbon (or lead) buildup locking up the threads try a medicine dropper of cleaner like Bore Tech Eliminator or Rimfire Blend. A few drops wicking into to the threads can breakup stuff just enough to get it to turn loose.
Click to expand...
Shot a lot of dirty ammo so that could be it too. Thanks.
 
are the barrel threads longer than the can mount threads?
I know I put a can on an AR barrel and didn't use a spacer... that was risky, because the fouling accumulated on the exposed threads.
 
NCFubar said:
If you have run dirtier rimfire ammo (Remington, Aquila or such) and think it could be slight carbon (or lead) buildup locking up the threads try a medicine dropper of cleaner like Bore Tech Eliminator or Rimfire Blend. A few drops wicking into to the threads can breakup stuff just enough to get it to turn loose.
Click to expand...
I tried Hoppes #9 first. Only let it soak about an hour before switching to Kroil. Needless to say, it came off the following day with less effort than I tried with nothing.
 
BigWaylon said:
Mainly white, and I have no idea.

I did recently get a roll of yellow from HF, but haven’t used it.
Click to expand...
i don't think i've ever heard this either
how much, and are the threads really loose enough that it doesn't shift alignment?
 
DrScaryGuy said:
i don't think i've ever heard this either
how much, and are the threads really loose enough that it doesn't shift alignment?
Click to expand...
I’ve always used Teflon tape for pistol cans, and often used it for rimfire. If you direct thread any can, it’s a good option. I also use it to keep the thread protector in place on a carry gun.

It’s a very common solution that’s been discussed here many time.
 
I have several that I can no longer disassemble. I contacted the manufacturer and they said "Run it till they fail and send them back". Not sure I want to go to those lengths, but if they do not break free on the next visit out........ I may do just that.
 
Elenaidan said:
I have several that I can no longer disassemble. I contacted the manufacturer and they said "Run it till they fail and send them back". Not sure I want to go to those lengths, but if they do not break free on the next visit out........ I may do just that.
Click to expand...
They’re stuck on the barrel like mine?
 
DrScaryGuy said:
are the barrel threads longer than the can mount threads?
I know I put a can on an AR barrel and didn't use a spacer... that was risky, because the fouling accumulated on the exposed threads.
Click to expand...
No, they look to be about even from what I can tell.
 
Alright, finally got it off. I wrapped the can in a leather strap and put it in a vise and it actually came off fairly easy.

I’ll be sure to loosen it after shooting it from now on and to use some Teflon tape or anti seize.

Any particular brand of anti seize y’all recommend?
 
I’ve been using this white anti-seize from Griffin. They say it is Lok-Cease 20/20 in the description…”This anti cease product is the perfect lubricant for thread joints, baffle exteriors on serviceable suppressors, and muzzle device interfaces for all sound suppressors. Now available in affordable small quantities, Griffin has repackaged Lok-Cease 20/20, this industrial product and made it available for the consumer.”

Been working well for me and I don’t get turned into the Tin Man! 🤣

www.griffinarmament.com

Suppressor Anti Seize 2300f

Griffin Armament is an industry leading manufacturer of suppressors, firearms, and parts for discriminating end users
www.griffinarmament.com www.griffinarmament.com
 
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willpgn said:
I’ve been using this white anti-seize from Griffin. They say it is Lok-Cease 20/20 in the description…”This anti cease product is the perfect lubricant for thread joints, baffle exteriors on serviceable suppressors, and muzzle device interfaces for all sound suppressors. Now available in affordable small quantities, Griffin has repackaged Lok-Cease 20/20, this industrial product and made it available for the consumer.”

Been working well for me and I don’t get turned into the Tin Man! 🤣

www.griffinarmament.com

Suppressor Anti Seize 2300f

Griffin Armament is an industry leading manufacturer of suppressors, firearms, and parts for discriminating end users
www.griffinarmament.com www.griffinarmament.com
Click to expand...
Another suppressor forum also recommended the Griffin Suppressor Anti Seize. They also posted a link to McMaster Carr to a product sold in a larger one pound container that they claimed to be the same product. It is about $35 with shipping. The bottle is about the same size as the silver Permatex shown in the image above. I purchased a bottle from McMaster Carr and so far it works great and is rated for 2,300 degrees F. Will take a photo and post it if anyone is interested. It is cleaner (on my fingers / hands) than the silver and copper based anti seize products that are 1,600 to 1,800 F rated. I am new to suppressors but have been using other aircraft anti seize products that are different colors and I always get a stain from it somewhere I do not want. I have not tried teflon tape but may in the future if anti seize gives me issues.
 
GaryS said:
Another suppressor forum also recommended the Griffin Suppressor Anti Seize. They also posted a link to McMaster Carr to a product sold in a larger one pound container that they claimed to be the same product. It is about $35 with shipping. The bottle is about the same size as the silver Permatex shown in the image above. I purchased a bottle from McMaster Carr and so far it works great and is rated for 2,300 degrees F. Will take a photo and post it if anyone is interested. It is cleaner (on my fingers / hands) than the silver and copper based anti seize products that are 1,600 to 1,800 F rated. I am new to suppressors but have been using other aircraft anti seize products that are different colors and I always get a stain from it somewhere I do not want. I have not tried teflon tape but may in the future if anti seize gives me issues.
Click to expand...
I see it's listed as black, what is the color of the LocTite listed at McMaster?
20220506_070003.jpg
 
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Here is what it looks like.

IMG_0674.jpg

IMG_0675.jpg

IMG_0676.jpg

I only purchased this for suppressor use because the silver and copper stuff I already have makes too big of a mess if I end up touching it. So far, only used 3 times and I like that I do not make a mess.
 
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