The 6.5 Creedmoor Thread

Well loaded for a .020" jump the tips of the bullets hang up on the bottom of the feed ramp. I've seen people notch the feed ramp to solve this but I can't get one of my action screws loose so I bumped them back to an .040" jump to clear. Hopefully they shoot
 
Has anyone ever had POI changes with a hot barrel? Let mine get hotter than I probably should have today and all of a sudden, I'm shooting 1.5-2" low. With 2 different kinds of ammo. Didn't get a chance to shoot again after it cooled down but thought that was odd.
 
Has anyone ever had POI changes with a hot barrel? Let mine get hotter than I probably should have today and all of a sudden, I'm shooting 1.5-2" low. With 2 different kinds of ammo. Didn't get a chance to shoot again after it cooled down but thought that was odd.
Sounds about right......it should be a slight elevation change but nothing dramatic.

You guys are killin me.......i wont get to any rifle shooting until august or so.....
 
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Sounds about right......it should be a slight elevation change but nothing dramatic.

You guys are killin me.......i wont get to any rifle shooting until august or so.....
This savage is killing me! Making shooting boring. We put up a 4" plate at 300 and its no problem to drill that thing every time. No breathing, no steady pull.. Point, pull, boom! hit. But this savage will hold a .5-.75" group at 300 yards as well.

We are putting up 2" plates for next time, to give us a challenge.
 
Has anyone ever had POI changes with a hot barrel? Let mine get hotter than I probably should have today and all of a sudden, I'm shooting 1.5-2" low. With 2 different kinds of ammo. Didn't get a chance to shoot again after it cooled down but thought that was odd.

On a OEM barrel you will experince this more than a aftermarket because of the quailty of steel. Not saying stock barrel is bad by any means.
 
Is it worth my time to work up a load for a rifle if I plan on mounting a brake and suppressor in a couple months? I'd hate to spend the time and money getting a load that shoots lights out then mount my QD brake and can and that load shoot like crap with the change in harmonics.
 
Is it worth my time to work up a load for a rifle if I plan on mounting a brake and suppressor in a couple months? I'd hate to spend the time and money getting a load that shoots lights out then mount my QD brake and can and that load shoot like crap with the change in harmonics.

probably depends greatly on the can. With my Savage FCP-SR and Omega suppressor, the POI shift when adding the can is negligible. The same load works well both suppressed and unsuppressed. A heavier can with a different mount may very well change things up.

Edit...I mount the Omega with a direct thread adapter, no QD brake.
 
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Is it worth my time to work up a load for a rifle if I plan on mounting a brake and suppressor in a couple months? I'd hate to spend the time and money getting a load that shoots lights out then mount my QD brake and can and that load shoot like crap with the change in harmonics.
if you do have to change anything it will be a few tenth's of a grain or seating depth. Largly depends on the can (light weight the better) and brake...don't want a huge weight handing off the end of the barrel. You'll see a POI shift more than anything. With a suppressor it's about is the POI repeatable.
 
Can is an Omega and was planning on running it with the ASR brake since I'll be swapping it between a few rifles.

Not opposed to direct thread since one of the guns I plan to run it on is a 300 blk pistol with the can tucked under the rail and will have to ran direct thread anyways.
 
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probably depends greatly on the can. With my Savage FCP-SR and Omega suppressor, the POI shift when adding the can is negligible. The same load works well both suppressed and unsuppressed. A heavier can with a different mount may very well change things up.

Edit...I mount the Omega with a direct thread adapter, no QD brake.

Is weight the reason you run direct thread? I see a lot of people talk about running a brake essentially act as an extra blast baffle and helps reduce wear on the can.
 
Is weight the reason you run direct thread? I see a lot of people talk about running a brake essentially act as an extra blast baffle and helps reduce wear on the can.
I run a brake for the same reason but also because I shoot 50/50 suppressor and unsuppressed.

Few precision cans when you order a "direct" thread verison they just loctie a brake in to the can. (thunderbeast does this)
 
I run a brake for the same reason but also because I shoot 50/50 suppressor and unsuppressed.

Few precision cans when you order a "direct" thread verison they just loctie a brake in to the can. (thunderbeast does this)

Yeah hindsight I kinda wish I would have gotten a tbac can but oh well. I may still get one for a dedicated bolt gun can and use the Omega to cover everything else.
 
set it to 2lbs at least. Cock the firearm, turn it to point the muzzle up and drop it/slam it on the floor is the firing pin drops, in crease weight. Do this 10 times.

Yeah there's a disclaimer on the site saying that bergara use a stiffer psring and will be a little heavier. I did the same testing with my cz. Ended up around a pound and a half before the sear stopped disengaging.
 
My match rifles (I use a Calvin Elite) are sent to 2 pounds. Some guys use 80z but in tactical match that's flirting with disaster
8oz would be super light for a match that involved moving around. My Savage is set at 10oz. That's the lightest I could get it and it not set off the trigger while cycling the bolt somewhat quickly. At 6oz, just pushing the safety blade in the trigger would set it off. If I ever did a match that required moving the rifle around, I'd probably turn my up a bit to a heavier weight as well.
 
My match rifles (I use a Calvin Elite) are sent to 2 pounds. Some guys use 80z but in tactical match that's flirting with disaster

8oz would be super light for a match that involved moving around. My Savage is set at 10oz. That's the lightest I could get it and it not set off the trigger while cycling the bolt somewhat quickly. At 6oz, just pushing the safety blade in the trigger would set it off. If I ever did a match that required moving the rifle around, I'd probably turn my up a bit to a heavier weight as well.

Most of my shooting will just be bench rest of prone stuff but I would like to check out a long range match at some point. At least I'll have to option to up the poundage
 
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Can anyone running h4350 and 140 eldm verify which speed is actually correct? 22" barrel here. Magnetospeed and Caldwell chrono we're reading significantly different. I'm think the magnetospeed is reading slow

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Magnetospeed on barrel? What distance was the Caldwell? Did each shot pass thru both chrono's ?

Change starts at 40.6 gr.

Tom
 
Caldwell was about 12' out front. Johnny's reloading bench on YT is getting similar numbers as my magnetospeed readings using the same powder and a 143 eldx so that's what I'm going with.
 
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