The Inside Scoop of Buying a USED car

larryh1108

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Ok, the buying a new car thread has neared it's end of useful life.
As questions arise there, I will answer and follow up. I may also think of relevant things and post them there.
I feel that buying a Used Car will be much more "interesting".

I feel that the info I will present here will rankle a good many readers. That is not my goal. I just want to share insight into what is going on when you are trying to buy a Used Car. If you understand what is happening and why it's happening you may find buying a Used Car a better experience. However, you may also be more aggravated than ever and recall this thread when sitting at a dealer, ready to wring a salesman's neck. Yes, it can be a very trying time.

If you are new to this series of threads and have not read (or skimmed) the buying a New Car thread, you may want to read that first because many terms I will use in this thread will be explained there. I also explained the way things worked that are the same whether selling new or used and won't be duplicating those posts. This thread will be more detailed about the car itself and less about the process. There is so much that goes on with the used cars at a dealer that many of you may not believe it's true. I will say it again, I have no reason to lie, I do not make things up. I am sharing things I have been told to do by management, actually done, for whatever reason or have seen done enough times to know it is a common thing.

I do not wish to inflame anybody. That is not the purpose of these threads. I will to give you better knowlegde of what is actually going on so you can figure out what works best for you. It is irrelevant what others think, feel or do. It only matters what works for you and your family. Keep that in mind.
 
To keep this thread on point, let's briefly touch on all types of used car sales and purchases. Let's get it out of the way now so we don't get clogged up with these discussions later. Once we pass this section, I wish to concentrate this thread on buying a USED Car from a dealer.
*We know you can buy a used car anywhere. This thread will not be helpful about buying a used car from Craig's List, a side of the road private sale, seeing one in a Walmart parking lot, etc. There are hundreds of ways private sellers sell cars but we won't go there.

This thread will not cover the small used car lots that litter every town and city. Their overhead is a lot less, their cars are not as nice and their practices are all over the place. Keep in mind that like any dealer, there are good lots and there are bad lots. A small, local lot that has 10 cars on their lot but has been there for 15 years must be selling nice cars (relatively speaking). There is nothing wrong with buying from these guys and you will find the experience a lot nicer than buying from the big guys. You will "usually" save some money buying from these guys because their overhead is lower but their cars will usually have higher miles and not be fixed for sale as rigidly as the new car dealer. To them, if the brakes stop the car with no noise, it's good to go. The dealer SHOULD pull the wheels and replace the brakes if there is less than 50% life less. Big difference.

Keep in mind that a used car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Year, make, model, color, options make no difference when you are buying a used car for yourself or family member. If you are happy with the car and the deal, nothing else matters. Everybody has their own opinion about the value of a used car. It is their opinion, not yours. I believe there is a lot of silent silent resentment, open hostility, and bad blood between friends and relatives, co-workers and neighbors about being ridiculed for what they paid for THAT used car. It is truly nobody's business how I spend my money. Like momma used to say, "if you ain't got nothing nice to say, say nothing at all." Silence is golden.
 
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Used Cars and dealers.
Every new car dealer sells used cars. They need to so they have another revenue source because the markup on new cars just doesn't get it done. As with the new car thread, luxury dealers and hi end cars are totally different animals and this (generally) does not apply to them. The luxury dealers operate with the same basic principles but they have much higher profit margins than a traditional new car dealer in your traditional neighborhood.

This thread will also cover the large volume used car only lots. These dealers are set up just like a new car dealer but don't have the anchor around their neck that is called a Franchise. They don't have to answer to the "factory", just themselves. Most of these dealers ran a new car franchise for many years and earned enough money to open their own lot. They do things the same way they always did because they were successful. They have the feel of a new car dealer but are a little smaller. These are good stores to buy from as well and there are good stores and bad stores just like every dealer out there. These stores are a little hand tied because they cannot go to the factory sales where they run the lease turn ins and repos. However, since they were once in these stores, they have buddies who still work there and they go together to buy cars for the non-franchise guy but under the franchise dealer's name. The franchise then turns around and wholesales these cars to his buddy for a "fee". Yeah, more about that later. However, this means the non-franchise dealer pays more for the same cars.

When we discuss these dealers, it will also include the used car stores that are not dealer sized but in between a dealer and a small lot. Every city and town have these as well. They are also run/owned by car guys who wanted to go out on their own. These may be the best places to buy a used car because they know how to recondition the cars right but don't use the $100 per hour service department. They hook up with a good and reliable shop that appreciates the business and takes good care of the dealer in return. They have good relationships. These dealers usually retail for a bit less than the big boys due to the fact that they need to be cheaper to survive and their overhead is less and their reconditioning costs are less. They also have less staff (the wife may process the "docs", the salesmen are family and close friends and you usually get to work with the "main man" because he is hands on and always around. I find these places to be the best of all worlds in the used car world. Find one close to you and walk his lot. They don't have the same "if you walk on my lot you have to come in" mentality. If you are looking for a specific year/make/model car or truck, tell them. They will find one for you. Seriously. They are there to sell you a car and if they don't have it they know where to find it. You should get a call within a week telling you they found one in the $XX price range if you are interested. They usually have great service with little pressure. They usually opened this lot because they were tired of how the franchise dealers treated their customers. The treat you like they know you and in a short time, they will know you and vice versa. They are usually good people (unless you stumbled on to one of those bad lots). You will know pretty much up front if you want to stay and talk or leave.

And, of course, we have the franchise lots. We know they don't make money on selling new cars. We know they have to sell used cars to make it all work.Why is there so many different philosophies? Well, keep in mind that the franchise dealer is a new car dealer first that happens to sell used cars. The factory has reps on the street all the time visiting the different dealers.
They are there to take orders for the next shipment, discuss upcoming sales and rebates and to check on the "health" of the dealer (store conditions tell a good story). The new car dealer is a representative of the franchise name and they do not allow any franchise to sully the name that has been around for over 100 years. They keep an eye on things and carry a big stick.
They've seen dealers come and go and can tell if someone is doing it right and if they are doing it wrong. These factory guys usually come around when the monthly CSI report comes out so they can discuss what they did right and what they are doing wrong and suggestions on how to fix it. As mentioned, the factory takes these CSI surveys very seriously.

Now, keep in mind that there is no CSI survey for selling used cars. That is just a tidbit to remember down the road.They don't answer to the factory about used car sales. However, if the factory guys see that the dealer is turning into a used car first, new car 2nd kind of dealer, they will surely step in with some strong "advice". How does a dealer do this?
Well, a used car first dealer has all of his cherry used cars parked up front where you enter the lot. These used cars are usually late model and loaded with options and look sharp. They call it "eye candy" because that's what it is. They turn heads and make you want to drive in to see it better. The factory wants to see NEW cars up front specifically new cars with a ton of cool aftermarket adds that take it to the next level. A used car first dealer has some really nice and colorful used cars backed up by the front and side doors for you to see and drool over. The factory wants new cars there, not used cars. They will not be shy about it. The used cars may have the same brand as the new cars but the factory only cares about how many NEW cars you sell every month. They do not care if you sell even 1 used car (though they should because selling new cars does not pay the bills).
 
Where do the used cars come from?
Well, it seems that you guys want the juicy stuff up front, no waiting.
I guess we have to start somewhere.

Obviously, trade ins are a good source for getting used cars to sell. New car trade ins are usually better than used cars traded in for a newer used car (obviously).
There is a wide spectrum of years, makes and models that come in trade that there is no blanket reasoning about what stays and what goes.
Let's just go up the ladder to touch on each level.
The easiest one to cover is the beater trade in. Everybody knows what a beater is but a lot of times a beater may actually run great. No matter to the dealer, a beater is a beater. For some reason, these are called "bagels". A bagel is usually a car that is valued at $1000 or less. Dealers have no problem taking these cars in for $100, $200, whatever number strikes them when they look at it. They don't test drive it, they just start it to hear how it sounds and shift it from drive to reverse to see if the trsansmission is any good. When you put $100 or $200 in a trade in, you are not worried much. You can always sell it to your wholesaler buddy who will give you $500 for any car that runs if he gets a package of cars (meaning some are worth $200, some are worth $700 but he pays $500 each if he buys 10 cars in a package ($5000). He then spiffs his buddy who called him in another $50 per car ($500) for hooking him up (and so it starts!). Remember the little spiff the non-factory guy paid the factory buddy for buying him some lease turn ins? I sense a pattern here.
So, a bagel is a bagel and the salesman will open up your deal showing you $200 for your trade in. Even you have to admit you couldn't get $1000 for it but $200 just sounds bad to you because it still runs and drives great. When you see where the numbers fall you'll ask for $500. SO, this bagel buyer now has $550 in each bagel and gets a flatbed to tow some of these cars (flat tires, won't start any more, etc.) and takes them to his own small lot, a buddy's small lot, that corner gas station lot/repair shop, etc.
If it is not his own lot he can usually make $100 - $250 a car, depending on how well it drives, how much work it needs to be driveable, etc. These small lots will put a couple of hundred dollars in repairs in them (in their garage there or a buddy's garage at home, etc. Some back alley body work, top off the oil, air the tires and they now have the perfect $2995 cash/buy here pay here car. (Final cash price about $1500 or so. He'll make $400-$500 when said and done. Not bad.

The next trade in value is from $1000 to $2500. These are the nicer, high mileage but nice body, older cars that are one or two owner cars or have been in the family since new, etc.
I do not believe that anyone trades in a car that is working perfectly so I'm sure it needs brakes and tires and an A/C charge, etc. You know exactly what I mean.
These trades are usually picked over by the dealer employees for a nice, cash car for their son, daughter, inlaw, friend or neighbor or anyone who wants a nice, used car for under $3,000.
Everybody knows somebody who says to keep their eyes open for a nice, cheap and reliable car. These are the ones that get cherry picked by employees.
It's fair. Why not? Of course, they don't get anything at cost. Nobody pays cost. They usually double their money up to a point.
$1000 car, $2000 retail/ $1500 car-$3000 retail, $2000 car, $$3500 retail, etc. All as is, no reconditioning. These are sort of "back door deals". Not sneaky but not a normal deal.
 
So, let's look at how these cars came in. We'll assume it's traded in on a new car. I'm going to start using the term "ACV" (for actual cash value) because that's what we call the true trade in value.
The term "Over Allowance" will mean how much over ACV that your salesman shows you for your trade (trade in allowance). Now, these trades are cheap. The book value in KBB and NADA are not kind for these types of cars. They just aren't worth much to a dealer even though you feel it's worth twice what you are getting. In the negotiation phase of these trade ins, you may get an "extra" $200 or $300 shown to you as an over allowance to appease you. The ACV doesn't change but the allowance does. As we discussed, this over allowance came of the price of the car you are buying and you just used up $200 or $300 of negotiating room. If you remember, when you start to concentrate on the trade in, you usually forget that the MSRP price has not changed, just the trade allowance. These types of trades are usually the ones someone will pull out of the deal because for what we are offering they may as well give it to their kid or a siblings kid or the neighbors kid who needs a car, etc. You;ll give it to them for what we offered of just take $500 for it and call it a day. Remember, KBB says it's worth $1200 in average condition and you are trading it because it needs tires ($500) and probably brakes ($500). So, deduct the $1000 from the $1200 KBB says it's worth and it comes to $200 trade in value. Yeah, it sucks but it is reality.

The remaining cars that weren't cherry picked in the $1000 to $2500 range gets a different wholesaler in. These guys want to buy nicer cars than the beaters but still don't want to spend much.
The used car manager sits down with him (after he looks over what is out there and drives them a bit) and they start to talk price. To the buyer, he knows he has to spiff the manager $50 per car for the honor of being the guy he called (There is a line of guys who will take your cheap stuff). So, no Used Car Manager will show a loss on a trade in he took in in this price range. GMs and owners watch this kind of stuff (they also know about the side cash being paid. They used to be the guy getting it. It's part of the Used Car Manager's pay plan). So, the Used Car Mgr has 7 cars to sell to the wholesaler today (usually his buddy). The Manager writes down the ACV of each car remaining, adds $300 per car and comes to a total.) The buyer does the same thing and prices it per car on what he wants to pay and he comes up with a total. As usual with car guys, The manager is high and the buyer is low and when they compare prices they settle somewhere in the middle.
The Manager sells each cheap car for a $150 wholesale profit (plus his $350 cut of 7x$50 cash) and they call it a day. Like before, this guy knows where to go to get top dollar for his 7 cars, if not his own lot. Same situation, different level of retail sellers. These guys sell cars under $5000 for cash or Buy Here Pay Here (BHPH). These are just nicer bagels. They do put more and better wok into reconditioning.

Nothing earth shattering here. However, you can see how a good Used Car Manager can earn some serious side cash. This doesn't affect you, the buyer,,,, yet.
 
My mom (who was in the car business since she was 16) called these places "tote the note" dealers. Thank you for doing these post's.
 
As we move into trade ins that are worth more money, we will start to see a pattern. As touched on, moving used cars around involves a lot of money changing hands. Used cars are cash cows to dealers and used car managers. If you think about it, you are the guy who ends up subsidizing all of these "spiffs" because the ACV of the car you want to buy includes all of the money that changed hands. In many dealerships, the actual owner and/or GM is the Used Car Manager because they know that is where the money lies. On top of a lucrative pay plan, the Used Car Mgr makes a lot of side cash. Some dealer owners are so paranoid about the money that changes hands that they absolutely forbid anyone else to get "their money". Truth be tod, I don't blame them because it is really "their money" and that is a big part of how they were able to buy their first new car dealer years ago. So, if a new car dealer (or mega Used Car Superstore) owner is not on his yacht or at his club, he is usually at the store acting as the Used Car Manager. That makes him a smart owner, not a bad owner. He is also able to keep his eyes on everything else while there. He has a guy, usually a close buddy or family member, who has the title of Used Car Mgr but is really the right arm of the owner and is his eyes and ears of what goes on there.

Used Car Managers are usually the highest paid manager in the store (for obvious reasons) but it is a demanding job with a ton of pressure. If a used car department loses money (or doesn't make the agreed upon average profit per sale, he is gone in a hurry (unless he is a life long buddy) and the next, greatest Used Car Manager steps up. I am explaining this to show how the price of a used car trade in is determined in the "real cars" (not bagels).

As all of you know, there is little honesty in the used car pricing whether buying it or trading one in. When the Used Car Mgr puts a price on a nice used trade in, he has a few thoughts in his head going on.
*Thought #1 is if he sees this trade in on his lot for sale. If he does, he looks at it a lot closer because he is putting his name on it. It also means that he will pay a little more (if necessary) to get your trade. He knows that he can make $2,000 to $3,000+ on the retail end (which he earns "bonus money" on if he hits his mark). So, if you have a desired trade, chances are you will get close to what you want if push comes to shove. He will truly "bump your trade" if he sees future profit in selling it. He won't let a potential $2500 profit walk out the door over a $500 disagreement.
These trades are usually the same brand as the dealer sells new. They usually have less then the "average" miles for that model year (usually around 10k miles per year).The color is right. The Carfax comes back clean (yes, they run a Carfax or similar on every car they take in on trade). They research the current auctions to see what a similar car sold for recently. The major auctions show the sold prices for all the auctions in the country so you can search specific areas of geography to get numbers. Of course, every used car is different but it gives you an idea of the going price if you take it to auction. As someone in the business, he also (should) know what the value is for the area. It's his job to know. He then deducts for reconditioning. A nice, clean trade with no or minimum mechanical flaws is usually figured to have $500 in reconditioning (in his head). It's a safe number, after all, and pretty accurate. Of course, he test drives it and checks all the options and buttons. He looks for paint work. There are tools made to detect bondo and paint thickness. If it was repaired, even a minor repair, he knows it. That costs a minimum of $500 right there whether on the Carfax or not. He knows.

So, let's talk about a nice trade valued around $10,000. The UCM (Used Car Mgr) does his thing and due diligence. Remember, he wants this trade for the lot. He compares KBB (your guide) to the black book (dealer's guide) and NADA trade in as well. He sees what the auction has showed the last 2 weeks. He checks the "curb appeal" how is looks just sitting there. He pictures it all detailed and looking nice. You have a nice trade and he wants it so he is not shy about his value. Everything tells him that it is worth a solid $10,000. You know you can get $12,500 for it if you had the time and patience but private party sales over $8000 are tough to pull off unless you have a site like this one to list it.
The New Car Mgr is waiting since the buyer won't go any further without his trade value. The salesman is doing some small talk with you hoping to find out what you want for your trade. You are getting antsy because it is taking too long and feel you are going to get ripped off.

The UCM brings his appraisal to the New Car Mgr with a code written down showing the ACV for the trade. The code is the letter "L" with a number written down. L170. 170 lines.
What is 170 lines? (many dealers use the line figure in case the buyer sees the number and to confuse the newbie salesman who has no clue what that means). Bottom line, It removes the 00 after the price and doubles it. 170 lines means 8500. ($85(00) doubled is 170).
Ok, WTF is that? Everything said it was worth $10,000. It really is worth $10,000. The buyer knows it's worth $12,500 retail (private party). Thru chit chat with the buyer, the salesman knows you want $11,000 for your trade in. He is not going to be happy. The New Car Manager knows the same thing but knows how the process works. Time to work the buyer.

Work the buyer? WHAT? WTF! I KNEW I WAS RIGHT! THEY ARE OUT TO HOSE ME!!

OK, the UCM firmly places the value at $10,000. He has to have a "fudge factor" of $500 in case he missed something. He knows he has the $500 reconditioning which he applies to every trade in. True value (to him) is $9000 ($10,000 less $500 less another $500). When he gives the New Car Mgr (NCM) the appraisal line figure, he tells him there is another $500 there IF AND ONLY IF he needs it to make a deal. He also tells him to see him if the guy is walking (meaning he will move a little more to make a deal). The NCM cannot bump the trade on his own. The UCM (or owner/GM) can sign off on a bump to make a deal but go over the head of the UCM enough times and he will get even by putting the trade value even less to start to show the NCM who is running things. Seriously. Politics plays a part in your nice trade in.

Ok, now what. The buyer would like $12,000 for his trade because he believes he can get that if he sells it. He knows the dealer needs to make some money so he accepts that he'll only get $11,000 for it, maybe $10,500 on the low end. The NCM writes down the offer on the worksheet. My New Car, $30,000, less your trade in of $8500 equals a cash difference of $21,500 plus, plus, plus. The salesman's face turns white. The NCM gives him the appraisal with the notes from the appraiser: Needs Recon. Poss tires and brakes.Scrape on rear bumper. Door dings pass side, etc. The appraiser writes down all the ticky tack things he sees to justify coming in at $8500 Yeah, there are these minor things but they are terribly minor. The UCM is trying to lower the value of the trade in by being picky. The salesman shows him the notes. It is not the salesman's fault. When you saw the $8500 figure you literally jumped out of your seat. You are not happy.
You need to cool off. The salesman babbles about reconditioning and you are looking for the exit. The NCM is watching to see your reaction. He sees that you. are. not. happy.
He wanders over and asks if there is a problem. You start too stammer and tell him that whoever appraised the trade in is a thief and you want to leave. NOW.
 
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Used Car Manager
latest
 
I've been looking forward to this thread. Like I said in the new car thread, I rarely buy new. I typically try to buy a low mileage, newer used car, and trade them in when they're approaching the $1000 beater stage, or keep them as a secondary/fun car if its something I really enjoy. I kept my 03 GT mustang instead of trading it because it was worth more to me as a fun summer car than what I was offered in trade.
 
Ok, now we're getting somewhere. You always knew that the dealer is trying to screw you. Now you have proof, in black and white, that it is true. All dealers are scum! Proof!
We're going to back up a bit and take a step to the side and go over a few things.
First, everyone needs to understand and agree that every car being traded in has a true value.
In the retail end, the true value is what someone is willing to pay for it. You may only pay $12,000 for Truck A but another guy with different wants and needs may (and probably will) pay $13,000 for the same truck. Perceived value, like the perceived value of a used gun, is different for everybody. A Smith revolver collector will surely step up and pay more for that pre-lock revolver in excellent condition than a guy who likes Colt revolvers. Both revolver guys will surely pay more for for their brand of revolver than a guy who really prefers 1911s. Semi auto guys are usually (but not always) not revolver guys and vice versa. Value is perceived per each individual by their own likes, dislikes and standards. This also applies in the car world. No difference except the money involved. Why is this important? You know why it's important. Perceived value is important to the guy reaching for his wallet.

If you needed money for an emergency an just had to sell that 629-3 Smith that is P&R and in 98% condition and will break your heart to sell, but you have to. No choice.
You want $1000 for it. You NEED $1000 to pay whoever for whatever. The book says it's value at 95% is $800 but you know you can get $1000 to the right buyer.
The right buyer. Key phrase.
In a perfect world, the right buyer is every buyer. You put it up for sale and the first guys says he'll take it for that $1000. Sold. Sad but relieved.
In many cases, on a forum like this where there is a modicum of trust, someone would come thru who knows these are hard to find in this condition.
To someone not on a board like this he tries other venues. The offers roll in. $600. $500 plus a $200 trade (he says is worth $500). $700 many times.
Someone goes to book value of $800. The seller needs $1000 and knows he will get it if he is patient. He knows it is worth it.
He tries the pawn shops and a few LGS and they all say that is a nice gun and well worth the $1000 he wants but that's what they have to sell it for. If they give him the $1000, what do they sell it for? Ok, he agrees. They offer him $600 or so and he politely declines because he knows they are right. Everyone else is right, too.
No one is trying to rip him off, he just wants too much (what it is worth in the retail world). To move it now, he has to accept wholesale value or sit on it.
So, he decides to find the $1000 another way that he didn't want to do (his jerk of a BIL).

Moral of the story? Just because we think something is worth what we say, in the real world it is only worth what someone else will pay for it.
Bottom line.

Back to the guy at the salesman's desk.
When he did his research before he walked into the dealer, he "knew" he could "get" $12,500 for his trade. Retail. But is he a retailer? No.
When he was going thru the various stages, the number $12,000 kept popping into his head. (Humans seem to round these numbers down).
e.g. When I would tell someone the car they were looking at was $8995 they would say "ok, $8000". I'd immediately say, "no, $8995". They'd reply, "yeah, that's what I meant. $8000). Humans hear what they want to hear with some kind of filters but 99% of them drop the $995 for some reason. Happened hundreds of times.
Human nature.
So, the buyer is at the dealer looking at his new truck and knows he'd like $12,000 for his trade but the dealer has to make a profit so he thinks that $1000 profit is good and begins to realize that he'll likely get $11,000 for his trade. So, in a short period of time, the buyer lowered his expectations from $12,500 to $11,000 all by himself without any pressure or "advice" from the dealer. Well, the buyer is beginning to come to terms about what his trade is really worth, all by himself. So, now the buyer expects $11,000 for his trade and feels good about it. He'll hold firm at $11,000, he thinks.

Fast forward to when he see that $8500 figure on the paperwork. Yikes! That is $2500 less than he figured it is worth. What a rip off! $2500 is stealing!
So the buyer ejects from his chair, leaving spit trailing in the breeze. The salesman tries to comfort him and calm him down. The manager is watching because that is his job. The manager hurries over to see what the problem is (as if he didn't know). The buyer is livid. Hot. Ready to leave right now.
Screw everybody.
So, the manager gets him to sit down (after all, his keys are behind his desk where he put them). Ok, the guy knows he's walking as soon as he gets his keys and the manager starts to talk him off the ledge. Calmly. Quietly. Patiently. The manager now starts the process of why he's the manager and what he is paid to do. Close the deal.

So, the manager begins by asking why the buyer is so mad (yes, he knows but is trying to get the dialog rolling). The buyer starts ranting about how we are trying to rip him off with a low ball trade in offer. The manager convinces him to sit down so we could talk. The guy cools down because he knows he's leaving soon. Ok, let the manager do his thing so I can leave. So, the manager asks the buyer what he wants for his trade. The guy tells him his bottom line is $11,000 because he did his research and that's what it's worth. So, the new car manager pulls out the KBB or NADA print out sheet for the trade in value of the truck in question. $10, 875 per KBB. The guys says, "See? $11,000 just like I said!" Manager, yes, I see almost $11,000.
See the fine print? "Less reasonable reconditioning expenses and obvious damage or mechanical issues".
Yes, sir, the trade in value is $10,875 (the buyer now hears $10,000 per above) less recon, etc. So, let's figure this out. We can't sell this car with that scuff on the rear quarter panel. That costs money. We have to inspect every car we sell and the cost of the inspection is $125 plus parts. Those door dings are tiny but we still have to pay someone to take them out.
Yadda yadda blah blah, costs, expenses, etc. So, as we see it, that's about $1000 in recon and getting the car ready to resell so that lowers the trade value from $10,875 t0 $9,875. The buyer hears this and has to agree because there was all truth there about the flaws. Maybe he's high but maybe he's right on. The buyer begins to cool down and see that maybe he overreacted a bit. Ok, we're at $9,000 now for the trade. (see psychology above). Wait, it's not $9,000, it's $9875. He tells the manager he wants every penny of $9,875 to make this deal because it is a nice truck.
Now, the manager asks the buyer if he would buy the new truck today if he gets "close" to that $9875 for his trade? The buyer replies that he will buy today if he gets REAL CLOSE to that $9875. (In his mind, real close means $9500.) So, the manager goes back to his computer, looks up the stock number of the unit he's buying to make sure there are no surprise R.O.s (repair orders from service) and writes down on a Buyers Order $30,000 less $9500 equals $20,500 plus, plus, plus. The manager signs the approved by section and brings it back to the salesman's desk, sticks out his hand to shake his hand and places the Buyers Order in front of him with the $9500 for the trade, plus, plus, plus.

The guy sighs because he said he'd buy it for that $9500 trade in and there it is. The buyer signs it and shakes the hand of the salesman who sighs a sigh of relief. The deal moves forward.

Now, the guys who have been following these threads from the beginning should see what just happened and why the deal was made with both parties satisfied. Perhaps a guy or two can tell me what just happened before I explain it further? I am getting typer's cramp, lol.
 
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While we wait for some deal analysis from the readers, let's go in a different, yet related, tangent.
It's all about the car.
Note: When I say "car" it is a generic term for a car or a truck. It saves typing. I believe this board is mainly a truck board anyways.

First, almost every new car dealer sells used car because (along with the profit thing), frankly, customers want them
At the luxury dealers, having a 1 or 2 year old car for sale that is tens of thousands cheaper is a good switch car. If someone inherits some money or gets a nice promotion and raise or even wins a smaller lottery pot, he may just want that high end car.
He always wanted one. It is a sign of success (to him). Ok, he wanders in to that luxury dealer prepared to buy that nice Mercedes he always wanted. He wanders the showroom while the salesmen size him up and flip a coin to see who gets stuck with him (seriously).
So, he sees the MSRP on the 2019 Mercedes lineup and almost swallows his nose. He suddenly feels poor again because he didn't have a clue. $100,000? Seriously? Some are more? WTF, when did this happen? So he slinks away and tries to escape, unnoticed.
The salesmen begin to chuckle to themselves but one of them has no issue with talking to him because, well, you never know, right?

So, the salesman asks if he can help him find a car and the guy says (insert story here) but he had no idea the cars were $100k.
So, this salesman asks him how much he thought they went for and the guy says $65k maybe 70k tops. He had no idea.....
Now, a cocky salesman would tell him he was wrong and sends him on his way with a condescending grin. However, this guy had a real salesman who saw a potential sale because he said he expected to spend up to $70k. Must be something there, right?

So the salesman asks the guy if he minded that the car was less than 3 years old, looked like new and had only 20,000 miles on it.
The guy told him that he usually bought a late model car anyways so if he could afford it, why not? So, this salesman tells the guy to have a seat while he finds the right car for him. The guy sits in the service waiting area because the other salesmen are sitting around, snickering and making head motions and this guy knew they were talking about him.
So, 10 minutes late the real salesman pull a "looks like new" Mercedes up to the service drive and asks the guy to get inside.
They guy tells the guy he doesn't want to fall in love with a car he can't afford and the salesman replies that he believes the buyer can afford it and will probably buy it if he drives it. The guy complies and ends up driving it away an hour later, waving to the other salesmen who just lost a $4,000 commission.

Moral of the story? Even dealers who do not want to sell used cars (for the headache factor) need to have switch cars for buyers who want THAT car but can't afford it. Switch cars are not slimy or under-handed but are viable options for buyers who want a nice car.

Who doesn't want to sell used cars? Well, Michael Mercedes, Bryan BMW and Larry Lexus do not want to sell a car that would ruin their reputation if something broke. They make $6,000 to $15,000 profit on their new cars and do not want "those kind" of buyers wandering their showroom looking for fool's gold. They don't want to see a car with their name on the back on the back of a tow truck, being towed thru town. They don't want to mess with substandard buyers buying substandard cars. The don't need the money, to be frank.

The point of all this?
Not every new car dealer wants to sell used cars but it's usually the high end and luxury cars that are very particular about which used cars are on their lot. They want new, used cars. They will step up and pay huge money (way over book value) to buy the right car for their lot.

The same line of thought applies to the mainstream new car dealers. There are those dealers that will only sell used cars that are 3 years old or newer with less than 50,000 miles on it (as was mentioned previously) Lately, these have become what the factory calls "Certified Used Cars". To get the official "Factory Certified" badge on the windshield, they have to pass a very rigid inspection and reconditioning process. Brake pads less than 70%?
New pads. Tires less than 70%, new tires. Fresh oil and fluids even if the customer traded it in the day after he had the oil changed. Clean Carfax? A must.
180 point vehicle inspection. Done. Once the car passes this rigid inspection it can be registered with the factory who then authorizes a new car factory warranty.
The dealer pays the factory something like $495 to be listed as Factory Certified and carries the new car factory warranty (what he is paying for). A Factory Certified used car is as good of a used car as you can buy when it comes to being serviced and completely overhauled. Of course, the price is not far under the same car in the new car dept. If you don't want to spend $30,000 on a new car you can always spend $22,000 for a 3 year old Factory Certified car. Since these cars have a lot of money sunk into them for the service and reconditioning and the factory fee for the badge and warranty these cars cost more than a typical, similar used car. If you price it too close to the price of a new car then you will never sell it. These are the dealer's switch cars for that buyer that just can't get to the payment they want/need but still want a "new" car. It's actually a win/win for both parties.
 
notso556 asked this in the New Car thread. I'd like to answer it here.
Is there a "break point", let's call it, where the dealer is looking at it as a "keeper" vs. a dog that will be wholesaled? I mean, mostly, in terms of age and mileage. I assume anything in poor condition is going down the road regardless of age and mileage.

This leads me to the 2nd question. If it is a "keeper", what sort of profit margin is the dealer looking to make on the sale of it......... percentage-wise?

And same question for the dog that goes to the auction.

I've touched on the dealers who only want to sell late model cars on their lot. These usually are the best of the best trade ins and "Program Cars"
What is a "Program Car" Well, it seems to have become a generic term to describe cars the are less than 3 years old and have less than 50,000 miles on it. The best place to get these cars are at auction when the factory has their "Factory Authorized Sale", usually once a month. Only new car dealers who have the factory name can attend. No one outside that circle can buy any of these cars (see above about a way around it). The cars run thru this auction are a combination of lease turn ins and fleet cars that were originally leased by large companies for their staff. Also included are cars that the executives drive, that their wives drive and (if high enough) their kids and moms drive. These are all leased thru their leasing company and are truly lease turn ins but they have a different driver than an over the road, regional sales manager has. Also, the factory sales staff that drive to all the dealers to visit monthly and many other jobs related to working for the factory. Lease returns are USUALLY serviced regularly and are not beat up but we never know for sure how any car was treated. These cars have a myriad of miles, they are not guaranteed to have less than 50,000 miles on them.
Many customer leases have a 48,000 mile term or the lessee goes way over on their mileage (and pays dearly), etc. So, like any auction it is truly "buyer beware". Since most dealers try to get the best condition cars with the lowest mileage they bid up the price on these cars. There is no KBB or NADA guidelines when dealers bid against each other for these cars. It's what one dealer is willing to pay for that particular car especially if it has great eye appeal or super low miles. These dealers are looking for those switch cars so if they over pay for these cars and still come in at a good amount under the new car, they are happy. I say this because many people ask why the used cars are nearly as much as the new ones. It's kind of like the used Glocks you see out there for sale.
The used Glocks cost nearly as much as a new Glock. Why? Because some people are OK with paying $100 less than new to get a like new Glock.

A really good Used Car dealer sells a lot of used cars for a good reason. This is the new car dealer who loves to sell used cars and the Used Car dealers who stand alone. They want to sell used cars because they make a lot of money selling them. However, to be successful, they have to sell nice, used cars.
Reliable used cars. Clean used cars. Popular used cars. A Used Car dealer will not survive very long if they sell junk or cars that are not reconditioned or cars that were abused and cleaned up and sold for top dollar. Kind of like putting lipstick on a pig. You may sell a bunch up front but when word gets around that you are selling junk you will not be selling used cars for very long at that location. Bottom line, to survive and to make the money you got into the business for, you just have to sell good, reliable and affordable cars and trucks. Bottom line.

As we discussed in the posts above, when you bring in a trade for appraisal, the first thing that comes into his mind is if he wants it for his lot. Every dealer or UCM has their own criteria for what goes on their lot. However, it usually has to look good, first and foremost. A Car may be the best runner you ever had but if it looks beat up, bruised and otherwise neglected, the dealer will not consider it for his lot. If it has that initial eye appeal and miles, he will then look deep into the rest of the car. If the UCM puts a trade in on the lot for sale, it has his signature on it in case it blows up in some way.
It is his reputation at stake on every car he puts out there for resale. It better be right. So, it has to be the right car at the right price to go on his lot.

What is the right mileage?
Well, let's talk mileage.

Other than overall condition, the mileage determines whether a car is worth a lot of money or if it is not wanted.
As has been mentioned, if you have less than 50,000 miles on the odometer, that's a good thing.
50,000 to 59,900 miles is still good but depending on the year, it could hurt the value. Most dealers love this mileage range due to the value. Nice cars at a discounted price.
60,000 to 69,900 miles is starting to bump the top tier dealers out. If the can sell a 36/36,000 warranty and stay under 100,000 mi it's good to go. These cars come in cheaper than the others, obviously, and are good "Ad" cars. Late model cars at a hot price.
70,ooo miles to 79,900 miles and the going gets tough. Generally, these days this is not a problem but back when used cars died at 100k miles, this was considered a risky area for used cars. IMO, the risky area starts to creep in at 120k miles but that's just me. Many dealers cut off their mileage at 69,900 for many reasons. Usually, a car with 69,000 miles needs all kinds of mechanical work. Nothing unusual. My tires usually lasted to 60 something miles. Brakes, the same. I don't do a lot of city, stop and go driving so that helps. If the car wasn't maintained properly, they begin to unwind at 70k or so miles. It starts to become a coin flip at 70k miles and most dealers don't want to ruin their reputation in selling a bad used car.

If you notice, I went up to the 900 mile at each stage, not 999. Believe me when I tell you, you will lose A LOT OF MONEY if your trade in turns from 69k to 70k miles. That last 100 miles before turning over needs to be there so the dealer can drive the car for reconditioning, going to a detail shop, for future test drives, etc. 69,900 is good, 69.975 reads 70,000 to a dealer at trade in.
Turning each decade mark costs a lot of money. Believe me. 49,900 may get you $10,000 for a trade ACV and 50, 001 will get you $9,000. Yes, those extra 101 miles can cost you $1000. Seriously. If you are thinking of trading soon and are coming up to a century mark, park the car.
Park it or take the chance of losing $1000. Remember how buyers drop the $995 in prices of trades and the car they want? (very real phenomenon).
The same applies to mileage. To a buyer, 50,001 miles and 59,900 are the same... 50k miles. That 9,000 miles are dropped like the $995 is.
Dealers and buyers only see the first 2 numbers.... 50. 50 something miles. 49,900 is 40 something miles, 50,001 is 50 something miles. Even though it is actually 101 miles different it is perceived as 10,000 miles different. Trust me on this. It is fact.
Also, warranties and lenders figure rates and terms and interest rates by mileage on used cars.
Your new (used) car has 49,000 miles on it? Ok, we can give you 4.9% for up to 72 months. Oh, your new (used) car has 50,001 miles? Well, we can go 60 months max at 5.9%. Yes, banks have tiers. Warranty companies have tiers. An ESC that costs (not sells) $475 with 49,900 miles on it costs $575 if it has 50,001 miles on it. If you bring it in too close to that turnover marker, you will not see the better value. 49,901 will be 50,000 and will cost you hundreds and maybe a thousand or more (depending on the type of car it is).
Now, with trucks being a huge part of the market today, truck mileage is totally different than car mileage. Diesels have an even higher cut off. A nice,
clean truck with under 120K miles on it will probably stay on the lot for sale if it is the same brand as the dealer. Trucks have proven to last longer and have such a utility value that a nice, used truck is always in demand. Truck prices hold a much better value than a car costing the same initial selling price.
Also, nice, older cars with low miles always have a place on a used car lot while late model cars with over 80k miles won't see the retail lot. Too many variables with a limited market (trucks excluded of course).

So, after eye appeal and mileage, other factors come in to play to determine if it's a retail piece, a wholesale piece or an auction piece.
(Auctions will be discussed further down).
A wholesale piece is a decent car that just falls below the criteria of that dealer's lot or is another brand. We all know how Chevy buyers feel about a Ford truck and vice-versa. A nice Ram is treated poorly at a Ford or Chevy dealer unless it is a dually and a diesel. Everyone loves those diesels! Always a market for any diesel with any miles.
 
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... (con't) ...

Why wholesale and not the auction?
Well, #1 is the kickback from the wholesaler (not kidding). The nicer units can command up to $150 per car and especially decent trades, $200. A good UCM knows the guy at the Ford Store (if he's a Chevy Dealer) and calls him first. Many, many times the UCM is on the phone with his buddy at the other franchise and the manager at the other store is putting the trade in value into the trade with the accurate description of the UCM working your deal. This is called getting a "buy figure". What this means is that the other dealer will buy the trade in from the working deal for the buy figure he just gave you.
No backing out unless a major flaw was missed. These guys know each other for years and have built up a trust. So, if you have a Chevy at a Ford dealer you will be penalized (probably $500) for not having a Ford and if it's expensive enough my UCM will call the UCM at the Chevy store for a buy figure. It works both ways. The UCM at the Chevy store will call the UCM at the Ford store for a reverse situation. Remember, they know each other, work together at one time and see each other at the weekly auction. Maybe even share some beers at the local watering hole. It is a buddy system.

So, what is wholesaled (not auction). As mentioned, non factory units, units past the owners line for used cars (70k for cars and 120k for trucks for example) etc.
Every UCM also knows a guy who loves to buy mildly damaged cars. This wholesaler usually has his own body shop (maybe his own garage) and he buys cars that need a fender or a door skin or a bumper, etc. On the deals mentioned about the other dealer giving a buy figure for a trade, there is no money that exchanges hands because they return the favor. They help each other make a deal. The wholesaler who buys the mildly damaged cars spiff the UCM the usual $100 or so, depending on the unit and the dealer usually makes a $500 wholesale profit from this type of deal. When they take it in on trade, they usually ask if the damage was ever appraised. Half the time it was looked at by a body shop who quoted a dollar amount. When a dealer asks how much the estimate was, the buyer is usually honest because he didn't want the dealer to hit him up with an arbitrary number and deduct double the price. A good UCM knows about how much it would cost and deducts that amount plus $500 to be safe. So, $1000 in damage results in a $1500 deduction. So, when the body guy wholesaler comes by, the UCM adds $500 to the ACV he paid and tells the guy that this is the price. They may play the ask high/offer low game the car guys play but I always told them it will take $5000 to buy it, yes or no. When you work with someone a lot, you know how each other works. If a specific wholesaler just HAS TO ask for it for $500 cheaper every time then the UCM just adds $500 to the cost to appease him. I hate games but some guys just have to ask.

So, if a dealer has a trade in he doesn't want, he usually can make $500 to sell it off to a wholesaler. However, for this to be desirable to the wholesaler, the dealer has to take that $500 off from your actual ACV so he can sell it to another guy. Hence, the $500 deduct for trading in a Chevy at a Ford store.
 
Next I will address what happens to the car that goes to auction (from being traded in).
For a trade in to go to auction, there has to be some kind of issue with it that prevents the bagel wholesaler from buying, the $1000-$2500 wholesaler from buying and the $2500 to $5000 wholesaler from buying. Taking a car to sell at auction is a royal pain in the backside for many reasons.
First, most auctions are not that close. Most are away from the large city, in the middle of rural country where the land was cheap because they (auctions) use up a lot of land and need to be accessible to all of the small town dealers spread throughout the countryside. They need to be near a major highway with an exit close by but far enough from civilization so as to not piss off the neighbors. Auctions are loud (loud speakers with the auctioneer yelling his ass off) to cars with bad mufflers being started and cleared out to the smell of exhaust from all of the cars running in a close proximity. Auctions are nasty and I do not like them but they are a large part of the UCM's life.

So, cars that go to auction have been rejected by all levels of the wholesale buyers. That means either that something serious is wrong with them or that the UCM put too much money in them when he signed off on the deal (that does happen). Perhaps the owner told him to make the deal to sell a really old car from inventory. It does happen as well. However, no one at the dealer can accept losing money on a trade in unless the fair market value of the auction was attempted.
If I appraise a used trade in for $2000, tops, and the owner makes me put $3000 into it to sell a used car that has been there for 4 months (a big no-no which will be discussed later) and every wholesaler offered between $1800 and $2000 for it, it will sit until auction time. You cannot sell a car to a wholesaler (who everyone knows he spiffs you) and the car loses money even though you waive your "fee". Even if the owner approved the bump. You just don't lose money on a one on one deal. However, if the car goes to auction and the bidding process comes in under your price, well, that's life. Fair market value was reached.
Every dealer has an account that keeps record of wholesale losses. If a wholesale deal loses even 1 cent, it shows up under the wholesale loss column. At the end of every month, before the UCM gets his bonus (if he hits his goals), the wholesale losses are applied against his profits earned. If the wholesale losses hit an objectionable level every month the the owner/GM has to have a talk with the UCM, if you get the drift.

Most auction trade ins need to be towed to the auction because they are not driveable (damage) won't stay running (mechanical issue) or just decided to not start from sitting in the back row for 3 months. Trade in auction cars sit there until there is enough to justify a trip to the auction which is 90 miles away. They need to fill up a transport (9 cars) to justify paying the $75 per car to get there. (That $75 per car is charged against the ACV so the UCM has $75 more dollars to recoup. So, usually an auction car is not worth the time and effort to put any trade money in or it fell apart after taking it in. They are not nice cars.

On the other hand, there are many dealers who take every single trade in to auction except the ones being kept for resale. Every one. These owners just do not trust the side deals between wholesalers and UCMs. They know as they've been there. They think that the 2 parties (UCM and wholesaler) have a joint venture somewhere where the UCM is a silent part owner of a used car lot somewhere else and they split the profits there. Truth be told, that does happen more than it should. The owner wants the true market value of selling to the highest bidder to determine what the cars are worth. Can't blame him but he got where he's at by doing the same thing he's afraid his UCM will do.
 
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notso556 also asked (as have a few others) what the usual or average profit% is.
His question: what sort of profit margin is the dealer looking to make on the sale of it......... percentage-wise?

As I briefly touched on before, I have never been involved with working with profit percentages as a marker/tool.
Every dealer I worked at always use the Profit Per Vehicle Sold method (PPV). The PPV is the average dollar profit from each car sold.
I suppose the profit percentage is on quarterly and yearly profit analysis reports but it is not part of how we track profit.
It is much easier to look at the bottom line. How much did we make per car and how many cars did we sell.
Let's talk simple numbers in an average new car store that sells a good amount of used cars.
I suppose the % can be easily figured from the numbers below.

A typical monthly meeting recap will go like this:

New cars sold - 40
Average PPV sold - $500 (includes all bonus money earned. Does not include DOC profit.)
Total Front End New Car profit - $20,000.

New Trucks Sold - 60 (includes all bonus money earned. Does not include DOC profit.)
Average PPV sold - $1500
Total New Truck Front End profit - $90,000

Total new cars & trucks sold - 100
Total Front End gross profit - $110,000
Total average per new unit sold - $1100 per unit sold.

Total DOC fee profit - 100 units sold @ $599 per unit = $59,990

Average car retail - $30,000
Average truck retail - $50,000
Average per unit retail - ((40 x $30,000) + (60 x $50,000)) / 100
$1.2 mil + $3 mill = $4.2 mil / 100 = $42,000
Average profit per unit unit (above) $1100 + $599 DOC fee = $1699
Average profit % including DOC fee $1699 / $42000 = 4.05%
If holdback is figured in (which is debatable) ~2% = 1.95%
TOTAL GROSS PROFIT PERCENTAGE INCLUDING
DOC FEE AND HOLDBACK 6%

So, a nice, concise recap would be:
NEW CAR & TRUCK DEPARTMENT
$4.2 mil in sales @ 6% Gross Profit

Now consider a few things.
These figures are a pretty accurate of a typical month in a typical New Car dealer for New Cars only
Also, The imports (Honda, Toyota, Subaru) work off of a higher profit platform.
They just don't reduce from MSRP as much as the others because they do a lot of leasing and they just don't have to.
Also, when you see the national ads, their rebates and cash back numbers are a lot less.
Chevy or Ford may have (year end) $3500 to $5000 rebates and incentives while Honda, Toyota and Subaru have $1000 - $1500 discounts.
Watch the ads when they are running. You just don't see the SAVE $7500 off of MSRP on these import ads.
If the domestics, along with Nissan, Hyundai, Kia, Mazda and Mitsubishi, have a GP% of 6% (see above) then I'd GUESS the big imports are at 8%-10%.
Notice I said "guess" because I never worked at Honda, Toyota or Subaru but I know people who do.
 
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Ok, time to discuss the Used Car profit structure.
Before we go there keep in mind that a good used car dealer, whether at a new car dealer or a stand alone lot, needs to sell decent cars to stay in business. Each New Car dealer has it's own philosophy concerning selling used cars, as discussed above. The brand on the sign makes no difference in how they sell and market their used cars. Every dealer does it his own way.
Keep in mind that when a New Car dealer sells a used car, the factory's name is still hooked to that car so they (factory) follow how well their dealer handles their used cars. The factory pushes their Factory Certified Used Cars as discussed above. They have a vested interest in keeping their name clean. What this means is that most New Car dealers sell their used cars for more than a comparable unit at a Used Car lot in town. The New Car dealer probably has put more into reconditioning it. The New Car dealer also pays more in advertising, pays their salesmen more, etc. Also, the overhead is a lot higher. So, therefore, buying a used car at a New Car dealer usually costs more than from your local Used Car lot. Also, if you buy the same brand used car as the franchise, you can get the factory warranty/ESC that you cannot get at the Used Car lot. I just wanted to point out that even though a used car is a used car, there are different levels of reconditioning and marketing that goes into them.

A new Car dealer that has minimum desire to sell used cars and only carries "Like New" used cars have a higher profit per vehicle sold.
It can and usually is as much as $1000 more than the other dealers who like selling used cars. These units have lower miles, better service records and are (generally) in better shape than a typical used car. Some people have no problem paying these higher prices because they feel that they are buying peace of mind.

Typical Front End profit of a used car (PPV) at these dealers is $2700-$3000+.
Typical volume of used cars sold in a month - 20-25 units.
Typical Used Car gross profit per month $54,000 to $75,000

The next level of New Car dealers who sell used cars are the ones that sell about 50/50 new cars to used cars.
These dealers know the value of offering a nice used car lot. They are still a New Car dealer first buy put a lot of effort and talent into the Used Car Department.
As we've seen, the average profit on a used car is more than twice the profit than on a new car so they use the used car department to allow more aggressive new car pricing which brings more customers in the door and with that brings more trades in the door as well.
Smart dealers strive for that perfect balance of new to used sales and it pays off in a well run and profitable dealership.
Used cars here are still reconditioned well but they let the brakes and tires go a little further before replacement. These dealers try to keep the same brand as their franchise well represented on their lot and the factory warranty/ESC is also available. These are good places to buy a used car if the sales and management staff have good principles and sales skills.

Typical Front End profit (PPV) for a Used Car at this type of dealer is $1700 to $1800 per vehicle.
Typical number of used units sold per month - 75-100
Typical Used Car gross profit total per month - $127,500 to $180,000

The next type of New Car dealer that sells used cars is the guy who HAS To sell used cars to stay in business.
They typically have tickets (Franchises) that don't move a large volume of new cars.
These franchises do have some mega stores but the typical dealer that only sells one brand (instead of 2 or 3) needs to sell a lot of used cars to stay alive and to pay their bills.
There are regular size dealers in this type that just love selling new cars. These guys do a nice volume but also have the less popular franchises so they also want to make money. The factory, basically , leaves these dealers alone if their CSI is in the 90s.
They are glad to have a competent dealer selling their product.
These new car dealers usually sell used to new of 2-1 or even more. As we've seen, used cars have a much higher profit margin than the new cars so a dealer that sells 2-1 used makes more money per unit sold than the other guys. Nothing wrong with that!
These dealers also sell decent used cars. They still have a factory sign outside and a service department that can recondition these cars.
They may not change the brakes if there is no noise and may keep the tires a bit longer but they generally take care of their inventory.

Typical Front End profit (PPV) for a Used Car at this type of dealer is about $1500 per vehicle. This lower price is to move more units.
Typical number of used units sold per month - 60-100
Typical Used Car gross profit total per month - $90,000 to $150,000.

Next we will discuss the Used Car superstores and Used car lots we see around town.
 
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Let's talk about that nice, Used Car Superstore in your town or a nearby town.
You know these guys. They look, act and feel like a new car dealer without the factory brand name on the sign.
They are usually located at an older or closed new car franchise building.
They run just like a New Car dealer because, well, they came from a New Car dealer.
There are the big, national chains. Carmax, Auto Nation, JD Byrider, etc. There are also local guys who used to work at that huge megastore new car store who made so much money that they had to become an owner.
The large volume, national chain Used Car dealers may as well be considered New Car dealers when it comes to averages and PPV as well as working the sales process we've come to understand and detest. That is how the owner earned his money to open this store so that is how his people will run it. They have the look and feel and sales processes of a New Car dealer. They do not have a factory to answer to or that pesky CSI to consider but if they are a franchise they do have "corporate" to please as well as pay (a lot!)

The units that these stores sell are reconditioned well but not as well as the upper tier New Car lots. They sell nice cars. They also seek out the really nice and highly sought after used cars that are used as "eye candy" to draw you in. You will see that familiar gorilla out front as well as the tent sales and splashy ads. These dealers are a New Car dealer without the factory sign. They also require higher PPV to pay for the large building and ads and to draw in the upper echelon managers and sales staff (read: expensive).

Typical Front End profit (PPV) for a Used Car at this type of dealer is about $1800-$2200+ per vehicle.
Typical number of used units sold per month - 100 to 300+ per month
Typical Used Car gross profit total per month - $180,000 to $660,000+

As you can see, if this type of dealer is well run, he will make a lot of money. A lot. That is not a bad thing, however. They earned it.
 
Now, the guys who have been following these threads from the beginning should see what just happened and why the deal was made with both parties satisfied. Perhaps a guy or two can tell me what just happened before I explain it further?

The deal was calculated off of full MSRP, no rebate or discount, which allowed an over allowance above the actual cash value.
 
The next tier of Used Car dealers in my personal favorite. These guys are the local Used Car dealer that sells a good amount of used cars, understand that people detest the new car dealer and mega used car dealer's process of selling. These guys are (USUALLY) sharp guys who made their money in the new car dealerships but decided to sell a better way. Since they are an independent dealer, they have to work harder to get your business and have to sell cheaper than the competition to get you in the door. There (usually) isn't a sales process (per se) but their own sales process is all about finding out your needs and helping you to find the right car. These guys get it. They are friendly, personable and have minimum slime factor. They TRULY want your business because they know that you have options and that he has to earn your trust and your business. Buying a car here takes less than 2 hours (generally) and the experience is pleasant and without drama. When they take in your trade, they show you the trade in ACV, not an over allowance.
They tell you how they came up with that number. Whether you agree or disagree with the value, you don't feel cheated because the trade value was discussed, not meant to confuse and reroute you.

This guy will also find the car or truck you want if they don't have it. Give him a week and a good dealer will find that truck at a good price.
He may not carry it on his lot because he only has so much room and the unit's cost may be a bit too high for his comfort level. Basically, tell him what you want, specifically, and he will get back to you and tell you that he found what you want, it has XX,XXX miles. The Carfax is clean and you believe it is well conditioned and not abused. Color and options right there, etc. He will give you a retail price that is no nonsense because he doesn't have to put it on his credit line and pay cash up front and keep it for 30, 60 or 90 days before it sells.
He buys it today and sells it tomorrow and has limited exposure. However, you have to commit to buy before he gets it or you can touch it.
(Usually unless he finds it locally and knows the UCM and arranges a "24 hour test drive". If you buy it (dealer) the UCM gets a nice spiff (which is built into your price, of course). It is a win/win situation for both parties and you will save time and money as well. Also, the local dealer has to pay a $500 wholesale profit to the selling dealer because that's how it's done.

As you can tell, I really like these lots. Of course, there are too many of these lots that employ the same tactics of the New Car stores. After all, they are only taking what they learned and put it to work in their own business. You will know pretty quick if the store you walked into is one of these. Whether you stay or leave is up to your and your internal gut feeling.

The good stores usually have the owner working the deal. Many have asked to just have the decision maker sit down with you and work the deal with him. He usually has his family as sales associates; his sons go on test drives and pulls the cars up, another, younger son, that cleans the cars up (he saves the $125 professional detail). His wife or mom does the docs paperwork and dad may also be there (if it was his to begin with) and be the eyes and ears and usually the guy that picks up cars from service shops or takes them to state inspection, etc. It is a true, family operation. This type of dealer does not have his own service area. He know the pitfalls of fixing the cars on site. He knows the insurance is higher, he has to employ mechanics and the better ones (desirable) are expensive and wants/needs benefits, etc. and he is only 1 guy who can only fix one car at a time and he needs 10-15 cars a week serviced for sale. So, he has a good reputation with a local repair shop that services his vehicles to his specifications. Win/win.

If it sounds like I am fawning over these dealers, I am.... to a point. If I ever wanted to open a lot (not a New Car franchise) but a nice, Used Car lot, this would be me. I never accumulated the million dollars of free and clear cash to start it up right (ask my ex-wife why). I never wanted a partner because partnerships can be as bad, or worse, than a bad marriage and (of course) you have to split the profits and do half the things his way. No thanks, not for me.

I am emphasizing these types of dealers also, because, they offer (to me) the best value for the dollar and can give more personalized service should a problem arise (and problems do arise with used cars). You will be satisfied with the prices and process of buying and you will also have any needs satisfied more on a personal level when you walk in and talk with the owner. These days, social media is HUGE when you are talking about a local, small business. If you blast a dealer on social media like Facebook or Twitter, it does hurt them. These smaller dealers want nothing but good reviews on their pages. That helps more than anything else these days. Of course, you can blast the New Car dealers on there too but many just ignore the negative posts because most people just feel that those people got screwed because that's what New Car dealers do. There's nothing new there.

I mentioned about all the family working there for two reasons. One is obvious, you get a smaller, family run business where the family works as one and you can see it. They are together 10, 12+ hours a day and still get along (family not working there may not "fit in" this category).
The other reason (and even more important) is that the dealer saves a lot of money. A lot. He doesn't pay his son's the $50k, 60k, 75k+ a year to keep the better salesmen who grind the buyer for more profit because they earn a better commission. He pays his kids a good SALARY. Good for how old they are, if they are out on their own or live at home, good enough to have kids of their own and to buy a house. A good salary, not obscene (to outsiders) money earned from screwing buyers. So, the bottom line is these types of dealers sell their cars cheaper because they spend A LOT less money on almost every aspect of running the dealership.

These lots rarely (notice I didn't say "never") charge the local going rate for a DOC fee (remember, the wife or mother does it). If the going rate for the area (and there is a "going rate") is $599, then this dealer may charge $199 or $249. (It is profit, after all. Every dealer needs profit).
So, let's analyze this a bit more. A dealer like this may pay more for his cars than Megastore Used Cars or the franchise dealers. Why? Well, he is bidding against them to get these cars or he has to buy them from a "buddy" at the New Car store (see above). Yes, he still has to pay his spiff to get these units but after all, it is part of the price. When you buy wholesale from a dealer, that dealer also wants $500 in wholesale profit (minimum).
This dealer also has to outbid everybody else at the auctions to get this car. If a dealer, with deeper pockets, wants that car that you want, you have to outbid him. He has specific PPV to hit and overpaying for a car will hurt those chances. So, the nice, local used car dealer has to pay more for his inventory than the big guys. Now, once they have the unit, the smaller lot pays less to recondition them. He has a son detail them (cost: not a whole lot). Big dealer? $125 for a full detail. (If you detail it and trade it in, he saves this money and won't detail it again; hence the better trade in value, as mentioned previously). Service reconditioning; Big dealer has a service dept. The service department may be owned by the same dealer but is it's own profit center with it's own overhead and it's own management staff that earns bonuses on performance. Other than being under the same roof, it is a different business when it comes to running businesses. The service dept personnel usually hates the sales staff for this reason.
So, a New Car service department has 2 rates: Retail customers pay (for example) $120/hour labor rate. The retail customer is charged by the book hour (the bible for how long each repair should take). For internal work, they charge their brother dealer maybe $80/hour for work performed.
They usually have a good mechanic that works on all different makes and models of cars and trucks. This guy is worth his weight in gold. Most service techs that were hired there only know the ins and outs of their specific brand of car. Yes, these guys also know how to work on used cars but an experienced mechanic who has worked on various used cars in his entire professional career is a much better option. So, the dealer usually does not pay his service department by the book hours, they pay by how long the job actually takes.
 
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The deal was calculated off of full MSRP, no rebate or discount, which allowed an over allowance above the actual cash value.
Either you've been in the business before (or presently) or are a very quick study but you are right on!
In all that drama and action everybody (including the salesman) forgot the deal was at MSRP. The deal was made with an over allowance from the markup that could have been yours for the asking.
 
These great huge walls of text are really only confirming my opinions.

New or used, they know ahead of time what their bottom dollar is. Everything else is a song and dance to get a bit more.
 
Used Car reconditioning (con't)...

So, the large dealers (new and used) have dedicated mechanics who work on the non-factory branded used cars. Same brand used cars can go to either, depending on how many cars need work. A full inspection (which is required to get an ESC and is good business) is performed on every car being considered for retail sale. There is usually a standard cost for the inspection (e.g. $125) the inspection includes an oil and filter change (if needed).
A standard 125 point inspection is done with the results taken to the UCM for review with an approximate total (just like with you). The mechanic advises the UCM which items have to be changed and approx cost and which items are ok as is such as brake wear, tires, and other items of concern.
If the list of needed items is too large or something major is missed (and it happens more than it should) the UCM may tell the mechanic to not fix anything and to park it in back to be wholesaled. They still charge the car the $125 so that is now part of the ACV. If the list is usual (in the area of $500) the UCM then decides how good he wants to repair the car they now know will be put out for retail Things like; the battery. If the car is 4 years old and the battery is original, leave it or change it? Well, the better (and more expensive) dealers just change it. Why have an unhappy buyer in a month? The usual dealer will leave it if it shows no sign of dying when starting. This is why you see too many dead cars on the first 90+ degree day or the first 20 degree day.
I've had several buyers tell me, when the car would not start, that he has a car like that at home and that's why he's there. Needless to say, even if that was the perfect car for him, he lost confidence in it and I don't blame him. He may end up leaving because suddenly all the cars appear to be "iffy". Cost of not changing an old battery? Maybe $1800 in lost profit for an $80 battery. Smart? Well, every dealer is different.
 
These great huge walls of text are really only confirming my opinions.

New or used, they know ahead of time what their bottom dollar is. Everything else is a song and dance to get a bit more.
Absolutely!
However, the question is: Why do they not deserve profit? What is fair profit for a new car? How about a used car?
I've been mildly surprised when I posted the average used car profits. So far not one complaint here.
I've wondered for years; why is is not ok for a dealer to make $1000 on a new car (front end) but everyone seems ok with a used car profit of $2000? I never could figure that out. Buyers worry about invoice, holdback, dealer cash, stair steps but not one peep about that $2500 profit just made on that used truck. I can't explain the buyer's logic. I believe that because that new car has a specific, printed cost
(invoice) and every used car has a different ACV due to too many factors to gain info on up front that there is no way for the buyer to know what ACV is of that used car. So, used cars are sold at market value instead of what an invoice/MSRP states.
 
So you are saying a New Car Dealer, taking a trade-in, is looking to get roughly the following out of the deal............

New Car sale = roughly $500

Trade-in sale = roughly $500 if wholesaled and $1,500-$3,000 (depending on their philosophy) if put on their lot

DOC fees = whatever the market will bear (my go-to dealer charges $75, I guess I'm fortunate there, the numbers you have quoted just blow my mind)

Extended Warranty = roughly 25% of the price of the contract

So a dealer taking an older, high mileage car in trade (that has to be wholesaled) can expect to make $1,000 on a $27,000 or so investment - on just the sales of the 2 cars alone. That's a 3.7% profit. With margins that slim it's no wonder there are "extras" baked into the sale.
 
Recon costs... (con't).
Ok, so we know that the megastore used car lot and the new car dealer has a service department that has their own books and profit expectations. That also means that the service cost markup is greater than a local repair shop for the smaller guy. What costs $600 to repair at the big guy may cost $450 at the local repair shop.

What does all of this mean?
Well, the local Used Car lot pays $500+ more for his used car than the big guys but has less overhead.
Small guy, family employees. Big guy, misc employees of unknown character who expect a big paycheck.
Small guy, no bonuses. Big guys, every manager has a bonus plan based on number of units sold and PPV sold.
Small guy, recon costs of $400 or so, big guys $600 or so average per car.
Small guy, minimal advertising, Main advertising is word of mouth and social media. Big guy, full page ads and gorillas.
Small guy, much less overhead.. rent, heat, A/C, insurance, etc. Big guy, huge overhead incl showrooms acreage.
Small guy, much more personal service, less drama, less circle jerking. Big guy, you have to go thru their process. Feelings of sliminess and dishonesty.

Now, the big guy and the smaller guy each sell used cars. They usually buy them from the same place (except from trade ins). They both recondition the cars they sell, usually to similar standards (except for the top tier, low volume guys).

So, to sum it up, after the difference in buying a car (more expensive) and reconditioning the car (less costs) and lower overhead (ads, building, wages, etc)
let's just say that when everything is said and done, the big guys and the little guys have about the same costs (considering all factors) in a unit.

So, it all boils down to who wants the most PPV sold?
Well, with less wages and bonuses, the smaller guy can, and usually will, sell you the same used car for a lot less. How much is "a lot?
Well, like recoil, "a lot" is a relative term and means something different to each buyer. I think $500 is a lot of money no matter how you slide it.
Some think the minimum for a good deal is $1000 cheaper, etc. No matter what it means to you, you should get a cheaper car, of equal condition and value, at the larger, small lots.

Typical Front End profit (PPV) for a Used Car at this type of dealer is about $1200 to $1500 per vehicle. This lower profit is to move more units.
Typical number of used units sold per month - 50-100
Typical Used Car gross profit total per month - $60,000 to $150,000.

These numbers are similar to the New Car dealer with the small franchise who is used car centric. They have the same goal: to sell a good volume of clean, nice, used cars and to make some good money.
 
So you are saying a New Car Dealer, taking a trade-in, is looking to get roughly the following out of the deal............

New Car sale = roughly $500

Trade-in sale = roughly $500 if wholesaled and $1,500-$3,000 (depending on their philosophy) if put on their lot

DOC fees = whatever the market will bear (my go-to dealer charges $75, I guess I'm fortunate there, the numbers you have quoted just blow my mind)

Extended Warranty = roughly 25% of the price of the contract

So a dealer taking an older, high mileage car in trade (that has to be wholesaled) can expect to make $1,000 on a $27,000 or so investment - on just the sales of the 2 cars alone. That's a 3.7% profit. With margins that slim it's no wonder there are "extras" baked into the sale.
Exactly, 100% right.
You are a great student of how this works.
If I may ask, who charges a $75 DOC fee? Is it a New Car dealer?
If a smaller lot, I am not that surprised because either he is leaving money on the table or his prices are a little higher than his lot size dictates.
If I ran a larger sized, smaller lot I would charge a DOC fee of $199. That is a fair price considering it is pure profit.

For those who discuss and understand profit as margins in a percent factor, the New Car dealer makes pennies on his investment as your numbers show.
They invest millions to open and run a franchise dealer. Millions.
They carry (usually) a credit line of $3 mil to $10 mil plus just to have inventory. That isn't free (think monthly interest)
Their ROI is pretty ugly right now.

However, we have only scratched the surface on how a well run dealer makes profit.
I will be getting into that soon. I had no idea I had this much info to share.

I meant this to be a lot less writing and much more inter-action but once I start "talking" to you guys, so much stuff I didn't consider when I began this has surfaced and I feel I need to share it for a couple of reasons.
I want anyone who reads this to completely get an in-depth tutorial on how and why a process works.
I don't want to take short cuts in explaining something I think is important. If you truly want to understand the process then I have to go as deep as the explanation requires. Yes, I can be wordy but if anyone has followed this and read every post, you can see how I was as a manager and as a salesman. I always wanted the buyer to make an informed decision.
I wanted them to leave saying that while the process sucked, they didn't feel raped or abused.
I took pride in that. That defines who I am, as a person, in everyday life, not just as a car guy. I have no problem sleeping.
Of course, that super slimy top selling car salesman probably sleeps like a baby, too, but I have a feeling he is numb from the booze and/or drugs that he is hooked on that drives him to be a top dollar earner.

I plan, if anyone cares, to take this thread into the role of the Used Car salesman in the process and how much he makes, just like the new car guy.
It should be more entertainment than learning but understanding how a salesman makes his money is as important as knowing how the value of a used car is determined. It's all relative. When I am done here (and I don't think I'm close), anyone who reads this, front-to-back, and grasps what I am saying will never get or feel hosed when he or she buys a car again. If you do, then shame on you. You get an "F".
 
Absolutely!
However, the question is: Why do they not deserve profit? What is fair profit for a new car? How about a used car?
I've been mildly surprised when I posted the average used car profits. So far not one complaint here.
I've wondered for years; why is is not ok for a dealer to make $1000 on a new car (front end) but everyone seems ok with a used car profit of $2000? I never could figure that out. Buyers worry about invoice, holdback, dealer cash, stair steps but not one peep about that $2500 profit just made on that used truck. I can't explain the buyer's logic. I believe that because that new car has a specific, printed cost
(invoice) and every used car has a different ACV due to too many factors to gain info on up front that there is no way for the buyer to know what ACV is of that used car. So, used cars are sold at market value instead of what an invoice/MSRP states.
I do not worry about any of that. I could not care less. If they quote me a price I can live with inside of 5 minutes, I buy... otherwise, I walk out.
 
To Finish Up the Various Places to Buy a Used Car...

As has been discussed (ad nauseum to some), a buyer has a lot of options when he is ready to buy a used car.
I can't say why you, as a buyer, walks in to that particular dealer. Was it an ad? Daily drive by? A friend or relative recommended them? You bought there before? I believe what made you go "there" will determine what type of process you will walk into. Nobody wants to get jerked around. Nobody. Nobody wants to feel violated even if you do get a great deal.
That's just not the right way to feel when you spend $5000 or $50,000. I want you to feel like you did ok when you leave.
Buyer's remorse is usually in all of us. It's a human thing but if you wake up tomorrow and say to yourself "that wasn't so bad", then you had a good buying experience.

I have expressed that my favorite place to buy (and sell, actually) is that larger volume, small used car dealer. This guy should be in every town. He may have been there for decades (family owned and operated, of course). Dad, now son have been pillars in the community for as long as you've been alive. They save a lot of money by not having to advertise and they actually pass it one to the buyer in a lower price.

As discussed, a used car is a used car is a used car. Take 3 cars, side-by-side. They have consecutive VIN numbers, are the same color and have the same options. Their original MSRP 4 years ago was $25,000. Triplets. All 3 were built on a Thursday afternoon in the same plant.
They all have right around 50,000 miles (2 are at 48,000, 1 is at 51,000) Carfax shows all 3 owned by the same company and used as locally driven cars for an estimator of an insurance company (no heavy equipment to tear it up). They were serviced at the dealer as required.
No known accidents or major repairs. True triplets for all practical purposes. You are looking for this exact car. You see 3 ads for it online.
Megastore Used Cars has it "on sale" for $18,995 +++. It comes with an ESC of 12 months/12,000 miles limited powertrain included.
Medium sized New Car dealer has it for $17,995 with an included ESC of 3 months/3,ooo mile limited powertrain.
Larger volume, small car lot has it for $17,500 which included a 24 month/24,000 mile ESC that includes the powertrain and 100 other items (listed).

Let's assume that these were long term rentals from Enterprise (like a lease but without factory involvement) and Enterprise sent out a flyer with their usual 20 or so "retired" rentals listed with their prices (this is a usual thing). The lowest mileage unit went to the Megastore.
The 2nd lowest went to the New Car dealer (both 48k miles) the Car Lot got the 51k milesage unit but paid $300 less due to turning 50k miles.

All recon them the same. the 2 big guys spend $500 each and the small guy spends $350.
Basically they all own this car for the same money.
The 3/3 powertrain ESC costs about $100
The 12/12 powertrain costs about $150.
The 12/12 better ESC costs about $200.

Mega's DOC is $595
New Car store is also $595
Car Lot's DOC is $295

All 3 are ad prices so there is very little wiggle room. These will all be cash prices.
Mega and New Car agree to give you that 12/12 ESC (part of negotiations) to equal the Car Lot's ESC and comes down to $17,300+++ (end of month)
(drops $1695 off the sale price for Mega and New Car drops $695 off the sale price)
If you were comparing these 2 stores, you may have gone to the New Car store because he was $1000 cheaper going in.
You may not have known about the Used Car store because he only posts his specials on Facebook but your wife told you about it doing a search.
The Used Lot holds firm at $17,500. He has a slim markup and doesn't play "that game". (The owner told you himself).

So, let's just say there is only a hundred dollars or so difference in the ACVs plus the DOC fees at all 3 places.
Three identical cars, 3 identical prices.
It does not matter who made the most profit since you pay the same all 3 dealers.

Who has the best deal?
The guy who dropped $1695?
The guy who dropped 695?
The guy who refused to drop any money?
 
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@larryh1108

Here's a question for you I bet others would like to know.

Why is there such a spread in price estimates between KBB and NADA? Aren't they looking at the same sales reports?
Do you have a recent example? I stopped using KBB and NADA years ago when the internet exploded. I found that, back in the day,
that KBB was "dealer friendly" meaning they slanted the numbers to favor the dealer on trade ins. New car invoice is what it is.

Most banks use NADA average trade in when figuring a base for figuring loan values. I never paid attention to the retail numbers
because before the net, they seemed to lag behind present day auction values and no one could figure out where the Avg retail
numbers came from. Auction plus $3000? Auction plus $2500? Who decided what retail was when they printed their book since
everyone has different ACV when the car was ready for sale. Most dealers that I know use the Black Book, which comes out weekly
and is tied to actual auction sale prices. Weekly (instead of monthly) meant more accurate, real time prices. KBB also seems to
be big in the New England area and you could not find a KBB book in the midwest stores. Everybody used the black book.
 
Do you have a recent example?

Sure, I'll make one up.

2013 Chevy Impala LS 4 door with 53,000 miles, standard equipment, NC zip code.

KBB "Very Good" trade-in condition ---- a "trade in range" of $6,003 - $7,212 and a "trade in value" of $6,608.

NADA "Clean Trade-in" condition ---- $5,975 base price plus $2,125 for mileage for a total of $8,100

I think these condition choices are equivalent.

Almost $1,500 difference.

If we go with KBB "good" vs. NADA "average" the spread is about $1,200.......... $6,063 vs. $7,200.
 
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We (dealers) only look at the average trade in value.
Let's be honest, most trades are average.
There's an add or deduct for miles.
Can you check the average trade in numbers?
 
We (dealers) only look at the average trade in value.
Let's be honest, most trades are average.
There's an add or deduct for miles.
Can you check the average trade in numbers?

If we go with KBB "good" vs. NADA "average" the spread is about $1,200.......... $6,063 vs. $7,200.
 
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