First range trip with the R2. Was super excited and forgot to check thoughout the 150rd session. After letting it cool before taking off, I went to unscrew it from the qd mount and found it was loose at the suppressor to Kurz mount. Had not started to unthread but turned loose with literally no pressure. I hand tightened it back and then immediately tried again and it stayed on and came of the qd like normal. Is this common? I was sure to clean threads and used the spanner wrenches to get it has tight has I possibly could before shooting. Talk about a pucker moment when I grabbed it and found it loose...I think I almost had a heart attack!!!
Tips for keeping suppressor tight?
- Thread starter Bigtig82
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You aren’t really a suppressor owner until you watch one come off a mount and head down range.
I suspect that because I clean and lube the threads to aid with disassembly, that the oil/grease/antisieze liquifies as it heats up and makes it easy to vibrate loose. No, don’t have a solution other than maybe putting a witness mark on the can so you can see when it begins to move.
I suspect that because I clean and lube the threads to aid with disassembly, that the oil/grease/antisieze liquifies as it heats up and makes it easy to vibrate loose. No, don’t have a solution other than maybe putting a witness mark on the can so you can see when it begins to move.
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heat makes everything expand
be sure to fast fire a few rounds to heat it up, then grab your suppressor and make sure it's on really really hand tight.
... no don't, that's a joke. you'll get HORRIBLY burned.
Loose cans happen. be sure to check now and again while shooting. an "ove glove", a square of welding blanket, a tactical oven mitt... get one and keep it in your range bag. some suppressor cases work well enough for this in a pinch too. You'll also find that if your shooting bench is carpeted, your can will melt holes right through it and then get stained up with melted polyester. whatever your glove/blanket/mitt you used is a great thing to set it on to keep that from happening.
be sure to fast fire a few rounds to heat it up, then grab your suppressor and make sure it's on really really hand tight.
... no don't, that's a joke. you'll get HORRIBLY burned.
Loose cans happen. be sure to check now and again while shooting. an "ove glove", a square of welding blanket, a tactical oven mitt... get one and keep it in your range bag. some suppressor cases work well enough for this in a pinch too. You'll also find that if your shooting bench is carpeted, your can will melt holes right through it and then get stained up with melted polyester. whatever your glove/blanket/mitt you used is a great thing to set it on to keep that from happening.
I’ve got a band on a can that changes colors to remind me that it’s hot. Witness mark is on it at top center. Even did the same for my 3-lug can, figure can’t hurt to start in the same orientation every time, and it unscrews too.
I’ve had good luck with using a wave disc spring washer. I cant remember who it was but they use them to keep their thread protectors from backing off so I tried it on my G17 and it worked. I use them on all my rimfires also.
RussianPlant
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Sounds like a good way to get a baffle strike
My Sparrow has an internal O ring, I use Viton size #13 on my threaded barrels.
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RussianPlant
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Is it just an o ring sitting between two 90 degree shoulders?
First get a suppressor cover if you don't have one as it cuts mirage and also allows you to grab it and check if it's tight without burning yourself.
Some put a little teflon tape on the threads and it can work but I just have clean dry threads and snug up tight as possible and it seems to work.
Some put a little teflon tape on the threads and it can work but I just have clean dry threads and snug up tight as possible and it seems to work.
RussianPlant
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I've had more issues getting direct thread cans stuck on than I've had of them trying to escape
Yeah my direct thread after some shots gets enough fouling on it near the threads to not loosen.
I have a resonator K that I use a Kurz adapter on too (mainly because I think it looks better) first couple times I shot it, it would unthread as I tried to take the can off the mount. My solution was to put it in a vise and use the wrenches to get the adapter on tighter. Seems to be working just fine, haven’t had any issues since.
The Sparrow has internal oring to fit a barrel that has the front threads machined off. Like this
I had this exact problem with a plan b on a Nomad and a kurtz adapter on a Turbo K. The only thing that worked for me was a drop of Rocksett. Contacted a few manufacturers and got a 20-30 ft/lb torque spec but it's real hard to get a wrench adapter for some cans.
Edit:
Suppressor manuf. supplied tools with a square socket:
* YHM phantom adapter wrench ($21.75)
* Their website is garbage. Needs IE, accounts send passwords via email in plain text. You should use a burner card.
* The Fix Multi Tool ($69)
* Griffin Bushwacker wrench ($9.95)
* you might need to grind off the inner 2 teeth to use some of these with other cans but the griffin one looks universal
Edit:
Suppressor manuf. supplied tools with a square socket:
* YHM phantom adapter wrench ($21.75)
* Their website is garbage. Needs IE, accounts send passwords via email in plain text. You should use a burner card.
* The Fix Multi Tool ($69)
* Griffin Bushwacker wrench ($9.95)
* you might need to grind off the inner 2 teeth to use some of these with other cans but the griffin one looks universal
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RussianPlant
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That makes a lot more sense than what I was thinking
Is that 20-30ft/lb for the adapter to the barrel? I made an adapter to mount my TBAC with modeling clay, a 1” socket, and JB Weld.
Yeah I thought he meant the can to the brake adapter area was loosening. If brake to barrel then definitely rockset on it and tighten it down. My Surefire brake adapters are rockset on and never comes loose.
I only asked the manuf. about the adapter to the suppressor, not the barrel mount (muzzle device). I don't know why companies only list specs for the barrel mount. Here's what I got responses for:
* YHM = 20-30 ft lb for rifle can
* SiCo = 20-30 ft lb for rifle can, hand tight for pistol can
* EA = 35-45 ft.-lb for rifle can
* Rugged = hand tight for pistol can
* Dead Air = hand tight for pistol can
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the YHM mounts work well but have a break in period. The taper surfaces need to wear into each other. The mount and suppressor body need to be tightened and loosened a few times also to mesh, similar to a barrel nut tightening process. The YHM should be attached to muzzle device with a firm wrist flick. The threads and taper provide the lock. The clicking detent system acts as a secondary/backup to prevent the can from completely loosening. It’s not the primary attachment. The YHM mount is quirky but simple and works well. My only complaint is the muzzle devices look dorky, which is not really an issue.
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Teflon Tape works fine, at least on my Rimfire can.
Don't want to hijack this thread but do you have a link to this product? I'm waiting for my first form 4 to approve (October 13th) and this sounds like a great product for a noobie.
FLARE Mini™ Obvious Orange - Caveman®
The Flare Mini™ changes color indicating your gun barrel is too hot. Great for gun Safety, Precision shooting, Reducing bullet drift and Sighting in your rifle.
www.cavemanllc.net
might have bought them from Amazon, don’t recall.
Bumping this thread
on pistol suppressors with boosters, what is the best way to keep them tight?
I have no problem using an oven mit every couple of magazines but I have to imagine there is a better way.
Does griffin camlock solve this problem?
on pistol suppressors with boosters, what is the best way to keep them tight?
I have no problem using an oven mit every couple of magazines but I have to imagine there is a better way.
Does griffin camlock solve this problem?
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Slacker
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Does the O-ring work?Sparrow.
O-ring engagement. That's all I'm saying
I have been using O-rings but have only had a suppressor a few months.
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Sparrow. 🤢🤮Sparrow.
O-ring engagement. That's all I'm saying
That’s all I’m saying. 😁
(And I’ve never seen a Sparrow with a booster)
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Not yet. It basically just peels right off the threads. Mainly using the white stuff, but @Zbizzle911 (I think?) suggested the yellow (for gas) as it was a little thicker. I put in on something recently but can’t even remember which firearm. Maybe my 15-22 pistol, as I do remember taking that can off in the last couple weeks. No long term use for me with the yellow at this time.
An MP5SD comes from the factory with a thick o-ring located where the suppressor screws onto the barrel. The end of the barrel protrudes into the suppressor by about 4-5" though, but it still gets pretty hot back there.
If 0-rings didn't work I doubt that HK would be using them on the MP5....
Even with the o-ring I've had suppressors loosen up after firing number of rounds though them. I think that it is more related to heating and cooling cycles than vibration.
If 0-rings didn't work I doubt that HK would be using them on the MP5....
Even with the o-ring I've had suppressors loosen up after firing number of rounds though them. I think that it is more related to heating and cooling cycles than vibration.
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Not that one but this one, here is the asin to search for: B000MN8G9C
Yep it is me. I use the yellow teflon tape and for me it works great. Snugs everything up nice and then comes off when I want it to. I have not had an item loosen up yet while using it.