Trigger reset issue with SIG210A

rufrdr

rufrdr

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I was shooting my SIG 210A today and had a problem with the trigger not resetting. The hammer remained back when the trigger was pulled and there was minimal resistance to the trigger. I racked the slide several times and got the hammer to drop but after another magazine it happened again. With the slide removed, no grit or debris were observed in the trigger mechanism. After I put it back together it worked ok for another 40 rounds or so.

Anyone experience this issue for themselves?
 
Most likely a little bit of unburnt powder got in the gap between the trigger bar and the angled cut in the frame magwell area that it rides under. This prevented the trigger bar from rising all the way up and it was able to slip under the sear with just a slight "click" as it slides past, instead of engaging it. It has happened to me. The originals have the same design and are vulnerable to the same problem. If you take the slide off and try pulling the trigger while pushing the trigger bar down just a tiny, tiny bit, you can see how easy it is to recreate this. Yet it's hard to diagnose while it is happening because the mere act of removing the magazine may be enough to jar the obstruction out of the way and re-connect the trigger. It was confusing to me for a while.

I suggest keeping that area where the trigger bar rides clean and dry, free of oil that could cause grains of crud to stick there. If you're reloading it also may help to switch powders. Some ball powders like AA#2 leave hard granules behind that are perfect for getting into nooks and crannies like this.
 
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Q - had the gun been stored, sat unused for a long-time?

In my experience and observations, too many vegetable oil and similarly-based “gun care” products that find their way inside guns - an over time, in “surplus” amounts - have a tendency to “thicken” (I.e., wd40) even, “gel” and in some cases, literally over enough time, even “set” into an epoxy like film (Hoppes).

One reason I ask is the reset on the 210’s is a relatively long one, mechanically speaking and esp compared to the guts of a 1911 or even CZ’s

I use grease on the rails and sear surfaces of my 210 Target model and the long reset is why I don’t shoot it more often let alone in IDPA or Ltd 10 in other shoots.

The times I’ve encountered sluggishness I suspected “goo” to be the cause of, I’ve used low odor mineral spirits to flush the either dis-assembled or field stripped parts with, followed by removal with compressed air and then relube during reassembly …


Congratulations, btw - REALLY SWEET handguns and I was shocked to learn BET actually has one? some? in stock at time of this posting for only $1,300: https://guns.bridgeportequip.com/product/sig-sauer-210a-9-b-p210-standard-9mm-5-81-walnut-stainless
 
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73Chall said:
Q - had the gun been stored, sat unused for a long-time?

In my experience and observations, too many vegetable oil and similarly-based “gun care” products that find their way inside guns - an over time, in “surplus” amounts - have a tendency to “thicken” (I.e., wd40) even, “gel” and in some cases, literally over enough time, even “set” into an epoxy like film (Hoppes).

One reason I ask is the reset on the 210’s is a relatively long one, mechanically speaking and esp compared to the guts of a 1911 or even CZ’s

I use grease on the rails and sear surfaces of my 210 Target model and the long reset is why I don’t shoot it more often let alone in IDPA or Ltd 10 in other shoots.

The times I’ve encountered sluggishness I suspected “goo” to be the cause of, I’ve used low odor mineral spirits to flush the either dis-assembled or field stripped parts with, followed by removal with compressed air and then relube during reassembly …


Congratulations, btw - REALLY SWEET handguns and I was shocked to learn BET actually has one? some? in stock at time of this posting for only $1,300: https://guns.bridgeportequip.com/product/sig-sauer-210a-9-b-p210-standard-9mm-5-81-walnut-stainless
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I use Rem oil for lube, it gets shot about every 3 months. Thanks for the advice!
 
it's a single action mechanism so the hammer spring isn't involved in trigger reset. the pistol has a spring responsible for trigger reset. if it isn't resetting that needs to be examined either by a smith or Sig as there could be an issue with the trigger spring. lubricant isn't the solution for a trigger resetting issue.
 
92G said:
it's a single action mechanism so the hammer spring isn't involved in trigger reset. the pistol has a spring responsible for trigger reset. if it isn't resetting that needs to be examined either by a smith or Sig as there could be an issue with the trigger spring. lubricant isn't the solution for a trigger resetting issue.
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If I experience it again I will reach out to SIG.
 
Still on the 210A subject, I literally cannot shoot another handgun with any measure of effectivness on the same outing with the 210, it shoots so perfectly. Even one of my 1911s feels like the safety is on when I pick it up after the 210. If I didn't like 1911s and HPs so much, I'd sell them and just keep only the 210.
 
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rufrdr said:
Still on the 210A subject, I literally cannot shoot another handgun with any measure of effectivness on the same outing with the 210, it shoots so perfectly. Even one of my 1911s feels like the safety is on when I pick it up after the 210. If I didn't like 1911s and HPs so much, I'd sell them and just keep only the 210.
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210's are my second favorite handgun of all time - 2nd only to the HK P7 series.
 
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