trigger reset on Series 80 1911 pistols

[fieldgrade]

Since I detail stripped and did some work recently on my Colt Mark IV Series 80 Government, I just noticed that when I rack the slide after dry firing with the trigger still depressed, like "shooting to reset" on a striker fire gun, the hammer doesn't cock back like it does with my Springfield 1911 (without the firing pin block).

Is this normal for Series 80 pistols? Is it some function of the firing pin block? This is the same pistol I'm trying to determine why the trigger pull has gone from 4.5-5lbs to 7 lbs after going to great pains to "properly" fit and install a new beavertail grip safety.

 

[GymB]

Are you saying that if you hold the trigger back that the hammer follows the slide?

This is not normal.

@John Travis will have a suggestion, I suggest that you do what he suggests.

 

[Beef15]

Double check everything. You should not have hammer follow.

I'm drawing a blank on how replacin the grip safety could mess with the disconnector or hammer/sear geometry.

 

[S4f]

Since I detail stripped and did some work recently on my Colt Mark IV Series 80 Government, I just noticed that when I rack the slide after dry firing with the trigger still depressed, like "shooting to reset" on a striker fire gun, the hammer doesn't cock back like it does with my Springfield 1911 (without the firing pin block).

Is this normal for Series 80 pistols? Is it some function of the firing pin block? This is the same pistol I'm trying to determine why the trigger pull has gone from 4.5-5lbs to 7 lbs after going to great pains to "properly" fit and install a new beavertail grip safety.

Sounds like hammer follow, this and the increased Tigger pull may be due to the the leg of the leaf spring that goes to the sear being out out of wack, I'd wait till the new leaf spring arrives and see if that.changes things I'd like to qualify my answer by saying, I'm no @John Travis, but I've dealt with enough 1911 pistols to know that the hammer shouldn't follow the slide down.

 

[GymB]

You’ll also want to post up answers to the following.

In each case does it fall to half cock or all the way
When trigger is held back
When trigger is not depressed and grip safety is not engaged.
When trigger is not depressed and grip safety is engaged.

My bet is too little tension on the left (sears and/or center (trigger) leaf spring, but I don’t know enough to suggest a good prrotocol for narrowing it down and resolving it.

 

[Beef15]

You mentioned your new grip safety not having the thin leg of your previous drop in.

Are you sure you thinned it enough? If it's dragging the linkage it could bind everything I'd guess, possibly cause your issues. Series 80s are alien to me, so that'll be my last thought on it.

Curious what you find though.

 

[fieldgrade]

You mentioned your new grip safety not having the thin leg of your previous drop in.

Are you sure you thinned it enough? If it's dragging the linkage it could bind everything I'd guess, possibly cause your issues. Series 80s are alien to me, so that'll be my last thought on it.

Curious what you find though.

I trimmed it down to the point I could actually look in with a Streamlight (on "high", lol) and poke in there to see that part of the firing pin block that is next to the grip safety leg on the same pin with the sear and disconnector had wiggle room. Good question, and I did work on the grip safety leg last night to remedy this.

You’ll also want to post up answers to the following.

In each case does it fall to half cock or all the way
When trigger is held back falls all the way down
When trigger is not depressed and grip safety is not engaged. hammer is fully cocked
When trigger is not depressed and grip safety is engaged. hammer is fully cocked

My bet is too little tension on the left (sears and/or center (trigger) leaf spring, but I don’t know enough to suggest a good prrotocol for narrowing it down and resolving it.

Great questions, Jim.

Sounds like hammer follow, this and the increased Tigger pull may be due to the the leg of the leaf spring that goes to the sear being out out of wack, I'd wait till the new leaf spring arrives and see if that.changes things I'd like to qualify my answer by saying, I'm no @John Travis, but I've dealt with enough 1911 pistols to know that the hammer shouldn't follow the slide down.

This is definitely the fall back plan (or maybe the only plan) but I just noticed this phenomenon tonight and thought I would ask.

I should have the new sear spring from Wolff this week and will definitety post results.

 

[GymB]

So you have two problems, trigger pull and hammer follow, this means something important, I wish I knew what! Both would be affected by the leaf spring, so before tweaking anything I’d triple check to make sure that the leaf spring is installed correctly. I might also install the old grip safety and see if the problem persists.

Oh, and congrats, you have assembled an NFA item. When you first test it please load the mag with only 2 rounds.

 

[fieldgrade]

So you have two problems, trigger pull and hammer follow, this means something important, I wish I knew what! Both would be affected by the leaf spring, so before tweaking anything I’d triple check to make sure that the leaf spring is installed correctly. I might also install the old grip safety and see if the problem persists.

Oh, and congrats, you have assembled an NFA item. When you first test it please load the mag with only 2 rounds.

I'm waiting till my $6.98 fix arrives in the mail in the way of a new sear spring. I thought about taking it to the range today and working on it some more, but thought, "Nah, my hands are raw enough from detail stripping it about six dozen times yesterday." So I went to the range without it.

I didn't think about the fact that it might now run full auto!! LOL

 

[John Travis]

Since I detail stripped and did some work recently on my Colt Mark IV Series 80 Government, I just noticed that when I rack the slide after dry firing with the trigger still depressed, like "shooting to reset" on a striker fire gun, the hammer doesn't cock back like it does with my Springfield 1911 (without the firing pin block).


Is this normal for Series 80 pistols? Is it some function of the firing pin block? This is the same pistol I'm trying to determine why the trigger pull has gone from 4.5-5lbs to 7 lbs after going to great pains to "properly" fit and install a new beavertail grip safety.

Either the disconnect isn't getting out of the way or something is interfering with clean sear reset. I suspect the latter.

No, it's not normal. The pre-Series 80 type grip safety has the thick lug, and is probably dragging on the sear.

Whenever replacing a grip safety on a Series 80 pistol, I always recommend using a Series 80 type safety for this very reason.

 

[Bailey Boat]

Obviously you haven't resorted to a Dremel, polish the feed ramp and get back to us.....

 

[fieldgrade]

Either the disconnect isn't getting out of the way or something is interfering with clean sear reset. I suspect the latter.

No, it's not normal. The pre-Series 80 type grip safety has the thick lug, and is probably dragging on the sear.

Whenever replacing a grip safety on a Series 80 pistol, I always recommend using a Series 80 type safety for this very reason.

Thanks for weighing in John. I have had good luck with the Wilson “Bulletproof” line of parts previously, but this fitted grip safety of theirs, while very nicely constructed in terms of finish, did in fact have the thick lug which I’ve filed down, but perhaps not enough.

 

[fieldgrade]

One of the failings of a somewhat OCD personality is that we can't always see the big picture when we are feverishly trying to get a stubborn part to fit.

I stripped the 1911, re-installed the Wilson drop-in grip safety that had worked perfectly up until I took it out two days ago, but was flat ugly, and somewhat uncomfortable due to the enormous gap between the beavertail and the frame tangs. The pistol now works perfectly again. So, this is not a sear spring issue at all at this point.

I should have done this before posting my dilemma at the top of this page. Let me get back to work and see if this new grip safety can be made to work.

 

[fieldgrade]

Okay, simple problem, as pointed out by several of you, and confirmed by Tuner.

I just needed to file down the lug on the grip safety about 20-25% more than I already had.

Here's the duckbill safety's skinny lug, as shipped 25 years ago. See how much has been taken off the lug from the factory? Look at the base of the lug. (and it's not that rusty. The flash is doing it's thing, those are black carhartt gloves)



And the new TRULY fitted Wilson safety lug filed to the proper dimension.
The whole lug was originally as thick as the base of the lug.


Now with the lug deburred, polished up somewhat, and re-blued.

 

[fieldgrade]

Ladies, and Germs. We now have a fully functional Colt 1911.
Grip safety functions exactly as it should.
Trigger is back to 4.5 lbs
*whew*

Next up will be silver soldering in the front HiViz fiber sight as soon as the solder and flux arrives.

 

[John Travis]

It's usually somethin' simple.

 

[Ikarus1]

See also: Why I'll never own a Series 80 gun.

 

[fieldgrade]

See also: Why I'll never own a Series 80 gun.

Not a thing in the world wrong with a Series 80 gun. I just didn't properly fit the part.

I'd shoot this Colt beside my SA Range Officer with 4lb trigger and no firing pin safety all day long.