Uh Oh. I done screwed up.

Elenaidan

Elenaidan

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I left some cans assembled and forgot to clean them. They are now locked up tight as a tic. Anyone have some sage wisdom for getting them apart again? I have tried soaking them for several hours ion a penetrating mixture. It only helped with the big can, not the .22LR.
 
Please be more specific, hard to suggest anything when we don’t know the design. Also, how many rounds since last cleaning?
 
Buy a sparrow or other clamshell design.
Life is too short to waste on poorly designed rimfire cans.

That said, I have had great luck with "lead away" I think birchwood casey makes it.
DUB wheel cleaner also works well.
 
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I'd suggest soaking them in an ultrasonic cleaner with some type of penetrating oil in it or Hoppes cleaner. The ultrasonic waves will help the cleaner to penetrate into the threads.
 
What cans?
What material?
What exactly have you tried?
What exactly is locked up? (Can’t remove ends? Or internals stuck once ends are removed?)
 
Scsmith42 said:
I'd suggest soaking them in an ultrasonic cleaner with some type of penetrating oil in it or Hoppes cleaner. The ultrasonic waves will help the cleaner to penetrate into the threads.
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I’ve run baffles in the ultrasonic regularly but the outer tube is something you have to be careful with as some finishes or coatings can be damage ...
A0C56BAF-9558-4236-8191-1962F3FE6B1E.jpeg
 
I’ve seen ultrasonic probes, don’t own one. Wonder if you could fill a suppressor with fluid and drop the probe down into the bore.
 
These are Gemtech .22 and GM45 cans. Many rounds through them. I think I have a good mixture to soak them overnight. I will try to get them off tomorrow. As mentioned above, heat was suggested as a method of encouragement. That is certainly a possibility should this fail. Thanks for your input fellahs.
 
I don’t think you answered this yet...but are we talking getting the ends off? Or the internals out?

Do those cans offer tools to help remove the end caps? I think the GM22 just needs a 1/4” driver? Looking at a pic of the GM45, maybe it uses. 1/2” driver?

If that’s the case, you can soak them if you want...but get some Vox Blox from EA and put ‘em in a vise.
 
gemtech 22 cans are aluminum and the user manuals say not to soak, ultrasonic clean, or use water.

not saying not to do it... just know you're not "supposed" to

I think they're safe with wd40, so maybe spray the crap out of the baffles with the little straw and let it soak for a day or two?
 
Elenaidan said:
These are Gemtech .22 and GM45 cans. Many rounds through them. I think I have a good mixture to soak them overnight. I will try to get them off tomorrow. As mentioned above, heat was suggested as a method of encouragement. That is certainly a possibility should this fail. Thanks for your input fellahs.
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Lead “melts” at like 625°F but you likely would only need to “soften” the lead and carbon crappé bonding it so you don’t need to get it smoking hot ... just enough to where you know you don’t want to skin near it.
 
Gemtech Alpine
The suppressor is aluminum (with titanium threads), and many normal gun cleaning solvents will damage aluminum. These include Hoppe’s, Sweets, GI Bore Cleaner, and all water-based agents (such as SLIP-2000, MP-7, Simple Green, etc.). Water and water-based solvents should never be used.

GM-22
Ultrasonic cleaners are not effective with hydrocarbon-based solutions. Water based cleaners are not recommended.

Outback
The suppressor is all aluminum, and many normal gun cleaning solvents will damage aluminum. These include Hoppe’s, Sweets, GI Bore Cleaner, and all water-based agents (such as SLIP-2000, MP-7, Simple Green, etc.). Water should never be used.... If the user feels compelled to clean the suppressor, immerse only in hydrocarbon-based solvents such as mineral spirits, WD-40, or lacquer thinner.

manuals

manuals
www.gemtech.com www.gemtech.com
 
Ed's Red also has kerosene and mineral spirits. At least it did when I made a batch about 20 years ago.
 
beamernc said:
Ed's Red also has kerosene and mineral spirits. At least it did when I made a batch about 20 years ago.
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Yep. There’s a link to the recipe earlier in the thread. Four items, equal parts.
 
BigWaylon said:
@Elenaidan

any update?
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Yes sir. Last night I heated up all eight and got six of them to free up without extreme measures. There are two GM45 cans that I could get the end caps off, but otherwise it was a no go. I checked their website and they don't really care if you clean the baffles, but advise keeping the threaded attachment couplers clean and lubricated. If I am being honest, I would have done much more research prior to purchasing a can or made my own. Horribly expensive items and it just gives the Gubment another reason (as if they need another reason) to be up in yo bidness.
 
beamernc said:
Ed's Red also has kerosene and mineral spirits. At least it did when I made a batch about 20 years ago.
Click to expand...
I think that the stuff works just as well sans kerosene and mineral spirits. I have used both the 4 ingredient combo and the 2 (acetone and ATF) and haven't readily seen a difference in efficacy.
 
Have you tried a strap wrench yet? That plus a vice with some plastic jaws is how I get mine apart.
 
I am not 100% sure about how long you can let it sit on aluminum parts but I’ve used Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover on my rimfire can baffles but they are stainless. It works nicely and has not done any damage to the stainless baffles, CeraKoted titanium tube or caps. If you havent gotten them loose before Monday call Jesse at Bore Tech and ask him ... he knows his products inside and out.

Sidenote Jesse said in 2021 they were coming out with suppressor specific products ... so they have been doing research on their products on them.
 
If you've tried heat and that didn't work, try cold. Put it in the freezer for a while and see if that helps. It's worked for me a few times.
 
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