Underbody rustproofing

Red Marley

Red Marley

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Got a new Tacoma pickup. Spent some time under it installing trailer hitch, wiring, etc. and it looks like the paint on the frame and related stuff is pretty thin. Metal is thin too; I would not want to see it rust. I'm looking for someone near Raleigh to apply an oil/wax based rustproofing treatment like Fluid Film (no asphalt-based bedliner type stuff). I'd do it myself but I have no good place work on it. Who can do this?
 
Just saying…up north where we salted roads for 1/2 the year? I’d earn 50% commission for selling “rust proofing” on each car I sold.

You’re better off running it through a good car wash frequently.
 
Tim said:
Just saying…up north where we salted roads for 1/2 the year? I’d earn 50% commission for selling “rust proofing” on each car I sold.

You’re better off running it through a good car wash frequently.
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I appreciate the advice. I didn't go for the "rustproofing package" the dealer was pushing. I'm pretty sure the asphalt-based stuff is worse than nothing coz it just holds the moisture in - but man, I want to put something on it before they salt the roads. Around here they're putting the brine down if a cloud passes over.
 
I’ve had three trucks in Wake county where you are @Red Marley and just didn’t have trouble with rust in spite of all that crap they spray on the roads in winter.

One was in Wake county since ’93, with 150,000 miles, the other also in Wake county, an ’09 with 90,000 and my current 2017 with 90,000. Granted it has an aluminum body.

I just don’t think it will be a problem.
 
You guys are gonna make me crawl under there with a spray can, aren't you? At least you're making me feel better if I don't get it done. I've sold more cars because of rust issues than mechanical issues.
 
Not exactly in your super local area, but my friend Chris owns Buckeye Performance here in Swannanoa(15min east of Asheville) and his entire shop is centered around rust proofing/repairing Toyotas. If you can’t find someone in your neighborhood to do it, I 100% recommend him.

Cheers
-Cody
 
Why would a bedliner type spray hold moisture? I’ve had 75% of my truck body in a bedliner type spray on with no issues. If there is no separation issues how can it hold moisture?
 
I'd want to do the same, keep looking for someone. The used Tacos and Tundras I looked at ALL had significant frame rust. One looked great, zero body rust, where two frame pieces were welded together, over a 10" length, the rust pushed them apart by almost 1/2". If I get a Toyota, I will be applying an oil based protectant that'll creep into the nooks and crannies.
Are you N/S/E/W of Ral? I'll ask some of the off reading mechanics at work.
BlackGun said:
Why would a bedliner type spray hold moisture? I’ve had 75% of my truck body in a bedliner type spray on with no issues. If there is no separation issues how can it hold moisture?
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Moisture will pool at the edge of the liner, once the corrosion starts, the coating holds the moisture in so the car cancer can eat away. You will not be able to coat every edge and surface of the frame and underbody. Well maybe if the whole thing was dipped.
 
I like to drive through a big puddle of diesel fuel every winter. Get a good spray just by speeding through a truck stop.

Drive through a car wash with an underbody spray, you'll be fine. Or don't buy a vehicle notorious for frame rust if you're worried about frame rust.
 
Red Marley said:
You guys are gonna make me crawl under there with a spray can, aren't you? At least you're making me feel better if I don't get it done. I've sold more cars because of rust issues than mechanical issues.
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The usual common consensus on Toyota (Tundra) forums is fluid film. I've heard of people spraying CRC 6026 and corrosion x and having good results. Seems like crawling under with the spray is gonna be it.
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Get Off My Lawn said:
Are you N/S/E/W of Ral? I'll ask some of the off reading mechanics at work.

Moisture will pool at the edge of the liner, once the corrosion starts, the coating holds the moisture in so the car cancer can eat away. You will not be able to coat every edge and surface of the frame and underbody. Well maybe if the whole thing was dipped.
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I’m inside the belt line, but willing to travel. I wouldn’t worry about bedliner properly applied, but not confident that’s what I would get. I‘d rather take my chances with something like Fluid Film.
 
Some info from the powerstroke board

I went on a 2 year test with fluid film, nh oil, and woolwax. They all fight rust the same way but I found this:

Fluid film works amazing but it washes off to easy and has a very strong musty odor....
NHOil is more mineral oil based so it creeps very far but again is a little less resistant to wash off
Woolwax is an upgraded version of fluid film both are lanolin based but woolwax is much thicker and resist washoff way more. The one drawback is warming up to around 60 degrees or more makes it spray way better. All three wont hurt rubber or bushing/body mount material and leave an oily residue on the undercarriage. You want to spray inside of rocker panels and any hole you can get it in where water or debris can get it and cause rust.

The only real drawback I see if you want to wear gloves if you have to repair/replace anything but for me its a very small price to pay to not have rotting panels and not need a breakerbar or torch to remove bolts for brakes, drive lines, u joints etc. The undercarriage just has a wet look to it etc.
 
I think I have a solution. The guy who has done all my bodywork for the last couple of decades says he will apply whatever product I choose. Might look into Woolwax (with a hat tip to @Diablos).
 
Red Marley said:
I think I have a solution. The guy who has done all my bodywork for the last couple of decades says he will apply whatever product I choose. Might look into Woolwax (with a hat tip to @Diablos).
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If your guy is willing to do more, I'm in the area too and interested in this as well. My Toyota gets driven on the beach a lot and this has been a concern of mine with their history of frame rot.
 
Whatever product you use, make sure there’s a way to coat the INSIDES of the frame rails, not just sprayed on the underside of the truck.
Another huge recommendation for Buckeye Performance.
(I get absolutely zero incentive for referrals here, just to be clear. He is good people, and stands behind his work. I’m a happily paying customer turned good friend)

Cheers
-Cody
 
Red Marley said:
I will ask him about it
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Closing this out, my truck’s chassis was sprayed with Cosmoline today. Obviously I haven’t tested its corrosion protection yet, but I’m happy with the product so far. Goes on thin, penetrates into tight spots; smells for a while though. Anyone involved with milsurps knows what Cosmoline smells like. I bought a gallon and a couple of aerosol cans, had some of both left over after a pretty thorough job. Applied by Collision Masters in Raleigh with me supplying the material. This shop has repaired four different vehicles for me over the years and always done an outstanding job with perfect paint match. Recommended! PM incoming to @SurfcasterPE
 
BlackGun said:
Why would a bedliner type spray hold moisture? I’ve had 75% of my truck body in a bedliner type spray on with no issues. If there is no separation issues how can it hold moisture?
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It doesn’t hold moisture- it would trap moisture and anything else from not prepping the surface the right way

I spent a lot of time up north, I would use a pump sprayer and used oil underneath my vehicles - oil spray
 
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