Well/Pressure Question

[Les White]

I'm on well water, it's my first well and while I'm familiar enough with the system to have replaced the well pump by myself a few years ago it's doing something new and I want to pick our collective intelligence to make sure I'm on the right track before I just start replacing parts.

I understand the pump, pressure tank, and pressure switch.

The new symptom, in a nutshell, is momentary pressure loss. While I'm in the shower the pressure will slowly dwindle until it almost stops, but just for a fraction of a second, then come back full force. From that point I can tell when the pump is running to the time it turns off and just the pressure from the pressure tank is forcing the water through the pipes for the next minute or two. The pressure slowly tapers off until the stutter mentioned above, then full water pressure again as the pump kicks on. The water never stops completely. Lather, rinse, repeat.

I'm thinking pressure switch? Should be an easy fix if that's the case. No idea where to buy one or what factors need to be considered when buying one.

 

[amnesia]

Most likely your bladder tank and not the pressure gauge.

 

[DangerRuss]

@Armed4defense (if he has Internet access at his new place)
Let something run and watch the pressure at your pressure tank and pressure switch. You will be able to see the switch cut on and off. There are a couple of things I can think of…
1) The switch is not adjusted right, or is bad, and is not cutting your pump on until the pressure drops below your desired set point. The switch should shut the pump off at a high setting, and cut it back on at a low setting. It is adjustable.
2) there is something wrong with the pressure tank. But when mine failed, the symptoms do not match yours. When my tank failed to maintain pressure, it resulted on the well pump cycling on and off rapidly.

 

[TCAM]

Sounds like your psi on your pressure tank bladder is wrong. it should be 2 psi below you cut on psi. So a 40/60 pressure switch should have a bladder pressure of 38. You have to completely drain to check.

If you get water coming out of the schrader valve. its time for a new pressure tank.

 

[9outof10mms]

Check the air pressure in the tank. There should be a valve stem at the top. Put a tire gauge on it and read. The tank pressure should be 2-3 psi less than the pressure switch cut on value.

 

[cold1]

I saw something similar with a buddies place. It was the nipple that the pressure switch was mounted too. The nipple was full of crude and it was acting like a slow release check valve. The water would be at full pressure at the faucet, them Peter out. Ten minutes later, it was back at full pressure.

 

[poller]

My pressure switch was corroded and very flakey. I replaced mine with a pressure switch from Home Despot for about $25 (I assume Lowes also carries them) for about $25. I spent the extra $20 to rig a pressure gage in-line so I can monitor pressures the next time it gives me trouble.

I reset my tank pressure at the same time. I'm getting pressure fluctuations which I assume is a sign of a failing bladder. Yet another thing to budget for in the coming year.

 

[Les White]

Thanks for all the responses. Y'all some smart suckers. I'll check the bladder tank and check the switch for crud.

 

[WILDB!LL]

Thanks for all the responses. Y'all some smart suckers. I'll check the bladder tank and check the switch for crud.

If you go for a new switch, also replace the nipple, preferably with a brass one, a galvanized nipple will rust internally until it stops it up.

 

[foopid stucker]

debris in the wrong places may be part of the culprit. try cleaning thing out if you can.

 

[Les White]

The bladder tank was full of water. Also replaced the pressure switch since I was already in there. Added a spin filter for sediment. The drain for the filter will go to a new outside spigot to make clean out easier -and- It'll give me a spigot on the front of the house.

Dragging a partly full bladder tank out from under the house is a bitch.