what am I doing to cause a 1911 9mm to not go fully into battery on slidelock reloads...

just for giggles swap the mag catch from the 45 to the 9mm and try it
Sorry. Read "slide lock" when you posted.

I end up changing so many things on my pistols I forget.

I had fit an EGW mag catch to this pistol a month or so back. I could put the stock mag catch back and see what happens. Probably worth a try.
I was thinking about this and wondering why this failure to go into battery wouldn’t be repeatable at the bench if it is the mag catch, but it’s easy to swap so I just did and we’ll see what happens next weekend at the Buccaneer match.

The stock one worked perfectly, but the EGW stands 1/16” taller like a Wilson, so I had changed it just for speed on reloads.
 
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I assume that you have the mags marked and it is not just happening with certain mags and not with others
To tell you the truth, the only one I have marked is one that doesn’t reliably lock back on empty, so it is relegated to use as a barney mag, which I have to have anyway. This would be a good reason for them to all be marked.

This failure probably occurred at least five times yesterday, so I doubt that it is the same mag every time, but it is entirely possible.
 
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I use a paint pen and number all my mags. what brand of mags are you using
Dawson Competition, which are made by Metalform with Dawson metal basepads
 
I was second most accurate shooter at yesterday’s match. It’s my understanding there are penalties for that in your sport.
Accuracy is the only thing I’m good at, so I’ll have to keep wearing my vest and shooting to slidelock. ;)

I am however, about to head down the CO rabbity hole, if I can just figure out which peashooter I want for it.
 
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The problem only happens when you run the gun to slide lock? I know how to fix that. Stop shooting a stupid sport that makes you run the gun to slide lock! :D





sorry, it’s been a while since we’ve had a good idpa vs uspsa debate and I think we’re due!
Shots fired
 
Is it possible that you are limp wristing it?

I have a new 1911 in 9mm that is giving me a fit with one type, but its not fmj!

I agree with the limp wristing possibility. When you try it at home you've got a firm grip on it. At the match you don't.
 
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Try it during live fire and see if you can duplicate the error.
 
I agree with the limp wristing possibility. When you try it at home you've got a firm grip on it. At the match you don't.

At this point I’ll look at anything.

Just did an experiment three times.

-I locked back the slide.
-inserted a loaded ten round mag
-laid the gun on the bench with the slide still locked back, muzzle away from me, pointed at a 2x6 wall with brick veneer on the other side of it
-pressed the slide release with my index finger, without otherwise touching or holding the gun, except with my thumb on the frame so I could depress the slide release
-slammed into battery, three times

I should quantify that I’ve probably shot 150 matches in the last three years and had at least half as many range sessions, and I’m a good sized fella with a large hands and a good grip.

I had a master class shooter SOing with me a few weeks ago and I was shooting CDP, in this case fullsized 1911 running 45, 230 grain ball factory ammo. He commented at the end of a stage right after I had shot, he said “ I’ve never seen anyone shoot 45 and the gun not move before.” I’m sure it did, but apparently not much.

I appreciate y’all brainstorming with me. I just don’t think it’s my grip.
 
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Try it during live fire and see if you can duplicate the error.
It doesn’t do it during practice sessions. Or at least not up until I shot the match yesterday. I’ll have it out at the range this week with the stock mag catch back in it.
 
So, Glock ergos and 1911 ergos work but not a CZ75?
Thats very odd and hard to imagine.

I’ll stop posting CZs in your threads though!
Glock ergos suck, LOL.
They just work for me, but bore the snot out of me to run in matches. On that CZ SA only I mentioned, I had to change my grip to properly reach the safety to disengage. Just didn’t like it, and am not ready to jump on the DA/SA wagon to avoid that.
 
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I’m thinking HK P30L with a light LEM trigger. If my memory is correct you have tried every other full sized 9mm. Or maybe a Nighthawk Hi-Power? You may not have tried that one. If nothing else it’s a cool gun.
 
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I’m thinking HK P30L with a light LEM trigger. If my memory is correct you have tried every other full sized 9mm. Or maybe a Nighthawk Hi-Power? You may not have tried that one. If nothing else it’s a cool gun.
I’m thinking M&P 2.0 with an RMR.
 
Time to detail strip the pistol and inspect the parts. Something is eating up the recoil spring's energy as the slide cycles forward and that can be a multitude of factors, jmho.
 
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Time to detail strip the pistol and inspect the parts. Something is eating up the recoil spring's energy as the slide cycles forward and that can be a multitude of factors, jmho.
I’ve had new 1911’s that the slide would hang on the disconnector before they were broken in, but that is not the case here. Not sure what else would be seen at this point.
 
Ok, the HK or Hi-Point can be next month.
Judging from you other post, I need to remind you that you have not learned our southern ways, and if you ever meet me, you best get back in your car and drive home.
 
Judging from you other post, I need to remind you that you have not learned our southern ways, and if you ever meet me, you best get back in your car and drive home.

Then next Spring maybe? :p

Although I have faith in the M&P than a 9mm RIAm1911.
 
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I’ve had new 1911’s that the slide would hang on the disconnector before they were broken in, but that is not the case here. Not sure what else would be seen at this point.
A tight clearanced hammer to beavertail can be a problem, burrs in the mainspring housing, loose ejector, the extractor/firing pin retainer/firing pin relationship and anything that moves, wears, supports, or feeds can be suspect. Try making a magazine's worth of dummy rounds, remove the pistol's recoil spring and test feedup from the magazines, with enough cycles something afoul will usually come to light. If not, it's shop time, good luck.
 
I’m thinking M&P 2.0 with an RMR.

Dang, I have to bring up CZ again, sorry. But, if you are serious about this you have to try my P-10F with SRO.
Really, I think you may like it. Points so natural if you are used to 1911.


Although, personally, I really like the M&P too.
 
Probably 80% of my slidelock reloads at DeepRiver IDPA today required a bump with the heel of my support hand to shove the slide into battery,
Not a lot of info to go on here. It could be anything: bad ammo, trigger nut, gun parts, springs, smutz, etc. But the laboratory conditions you are using to test don't have a timer and they're not the same cartridges.

If it was mine I would check several hundred rounds with a case gauge. Then take them to the range and work it out under match conditions using numbered mags.

This should not be grounds for dismissal unless you're already leaning that way.
 
We all think its a great idea.

"Idea" being the key word here.
 
So far I've been fortunate with mine. I have put about 500 rounds of various manufacturers 115/124 and 147 FMJ with zero issues.

I have tried 5 types of premium defensive JHP loads and all except Underwood 90 grain +p+ have done well.

I lied, some IWI 115 hollow points didn't like to go into battery.
 
Many years back I had an older llama 1911 (and it was a 1911, with all parts interchangeable -- after you converted to a true 1911 [non-llama] hammer and sear.) It was a great shooter.

It was one of the original Stoeger-imports, back when Stoeger was really picky about quality control. Shot like a LASER. I later sold it to a llama-enthusiast on the 'net; I had been seduced by a SIG. (I've since given up on most SIGs, having tried many of them. I do like my 320, however.)

I've had many 9mms since then, but none have been 1911s. (Did have a SIG P-210-6, though which was actually a little better. :) )
 
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