What do I need to know?

FlatFender

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Many years ago my Dad bought me a CVA percussion cap muzzle loader for deer hunting. I shot it 7 times on the range one day, and once to kill a doe years and years ago, and it's been in the safe since.

I'd like to take it out to the range soon. I've got some .50 balls, and all the peripherials, but I have no idea what I need for powder. Pyrodex? Can I even get real black powder? How do I know how much to use?

I really just want to make a bunch of smoke and noise, and if I hit anything, that's cool too.
 
Pyrodex or real black powder will both work. I only use real BP. BP grains have a certain size/coarseness that is measured, from finest to coarsest....FFFg, FFg, Fg. That's for GOEX and a couple other manufacturers. There's a company called "Swiss" that uses a different scale.

for your .50 cal, I would suggest FFg. and start out somewhere around 60 grains and go up from there. Max would be somewhere 80-90grains.
 
get out your calipers...what's the actual size of your .50 round balls? .490? .495?

find that out, then buy some patching material that will make up the .010-.005 difference. Honestly, patching will have great effect on your accuracy, so get a couple different thicknesses and experiment.

Or, if you just want to giggle, get something close and call it good.
 
FlatFender said:
Where can one source black powder? Does Cabelas carry something like that?
There is a thread on here with just this question. Look in the BP sub forum
 
Tim;n23733 said:
get out your calipers...what's the actual size of your .50 round balls? .490? .495?

find that out, then buy some patching material that will make up the .010-.005 difference. Honestly, patching will have great effect on your accuracy, so get a couple different thicknesses and experiment.

Or, if you just want to giggle, get something close and call it good.

Pretty sure I've got the same old patches from the last time I shot it. It was reasonably accurate back then, so I'll go with those.
 
Parks and Son in Advance stocks Goex.

Parks and Son, Inc.
234 Bingham & Parks Road
Advance, NC 27006-9415
Phone: 336-998-8182
Fax: 336-998-2696
E-Mail: [email protected]
Website: www.parksandson.com


Black powder is pretty nasty and requires you to clean the bore after 4-5 shots. Pyrodex is much cleaner.

My Hawken 50cal is most accurate with 75g of Pyrodex and 70g of FFFg. Work to the load that gives you that nice crack, not a resounding boom.
 
Process...
  • put a patch jag on your ramrod and swab your barrel with plain water soaked patch
  • run a dry patch down
  • measure your powder and pour into barrel using a funnel
  • use a lube of choice on your patch- the opinions about what are endless. I use spit, literally sucking on the patch while I measure powder and pour.
  • center the patch over the bore and set your ball on the patch.
  • use a "short starter" to seat the ball flush or just below the muzzle
  • use a sharp knife to trim the patch excess flush with muzzle You just want the ball nested in the patch, you don't want a lot of excess.
  • Use your short starter to drive the ball down a couple inches
  • use your ramrod to seat the ball firmly against the powder charge
  • get in firing position
  • pur a cap on the nipple
  • fire!
 
trcubed said:
Parks and Son in Advance stocks Goex.

Parks and Son, Inc.
234 Bingham & Parks Road
Advance, NC 27006-9415
Phone: 336-998-8182
Fax: 336-998-2696
E-Mail: [email protected]
Website: www.parksandson.com


Black powder is pretty nasty and requires you to clean the bore after 4-5 shots. Pyrodex is much cleaner.

My Hawken 50cal is most accurate with 75g of Pyrodex and 70g of FFFg. Work to the load that gives you that nice crack, not a resounding boom.
yup.....
.50 cal can be shot successfully with either FF or FFF.
 
Between shots, you'll want to swab the bore once or twice with a wet patch followed by a dry patch. Either plain water, Windex or an overpriced commercial product.

Black Powder is a "salt", the water/Windex serve to neutralize the salt and prevent corrosion.
  • After a shooting session with BP it is essential to clean the bore well.
  • I fill a 5 gallon bucket with HOT WATER and mild dish soap
  • remove the barrel and stick the breech end of the barrel in the bucket
  • pour some of the water into the barrel
  • wet a patch and run it down the barrel
  • Chdamn pump the ramrod (shut up Chad) to get the soapy water pulling in through the percussion cap nipple
  • change out the patch several times until it's clean
After it's clean, do same as above with VERY HOT CLEAN WATER.....like, too hot to touch. You want to neutralize and salts and the heat will cause the barrel to dry quickly when you're done. Then run a couple dry patches.

Run a heavily greased (I use RIG) patch down the bore for storage/protection.
 
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Pyrodex is considered dirtier than real BP. Real BP is a bit easier to ignite and less prone to misfires.

Avoid cleaning with boiling water, as it can cause flash rust. Warm water is fine. Dry well; some use WD40. Lube the bore liberally. I use Ballistol, as I found that CLP can attract residue during firing and gum up. Don't hesitate to keep a good coat of lube in the barrel while stored. Just be sure to wipe the bore with dry patches before firing, and snap a few caps to clear the nipple and drum.

Cabela's and Bass Pro should have real BP, but it's expensive and you have to ask for it as it'skept locked up.
 
Tim said:
Process...
  • put a patch jag on your ramrod and swab your barrel with plain water soaked patch
  • run a dry patch down
  • measure your powder and pour into barrel using a funnel
  • use a lube of choice on your patch- the opinions about what are endless. I use spit, literally sucking on the patch while I measure powder and pour.
  • center the patch over the bore and set your ball on the patch.
  • use a "short starter" to seat the ball flush or just below the muzzle
  • use a sharp knife to trim the patch excess flush with muzzle You just want the ball nested in the patch, you don't want a lot of excess.
  • Use your short starter to drive the ball down a couple inches
  • use your ramrod to seat the ball firmly against the powder charge
  • get in firing position
  • pur a cap on the nipple
  • fire!
Short starter? What sort of blasphemy is that! A real Mtn. Man don't got no short starter.

"Where's the Injuns what'll put arrers in yer back?
Where's yer slatherin' wolves of the rollin' prarie?
Where's yer grizzly brown bear as can claw the bark off a gum tree?
 
Tim said:
Between shots, you'll want to swab the bore once or twice with a wet patch followed by a dry patch. Either plain water, Windex or an overpriced commercial product.

Black Powder is a "salt", the water/Windex serve to neutralize the salt and prevent corrosion.
  • After a shooting session with BP it is essential to clean the bore well.
  • I fill a 5 gallon bucket with HOT WATER and mild dish soap
  • remove the barrel and stick the breech end of the barrel in the bucket
  • pour some of the water into the barrel
  • wet a patch and run it down the barrel
  • Chdamn pump the ramrod (shut up Chad) to get the soapy water pulling in through the percussion cap nipple
  • change out the patch several times until it's clean
After it's clean, do same as above with VERY HOT CLEAN WATER.....like, too hot to touch. You want to neutralize and salts and the heat will cause the barrel to dry quickly when you're done. Then run a couple dry patches.

Run a heavily greased (I use RIG) patch down the bore for storage/protection.
Where do you find RIG these days?
 
Tim said:
Process...
  • put a patch jag on your ramrod and swab your barrel with plain water soaked patch
  • run a dry patch down
  • measure your powder and pour into barrel using a funnel
  • use a lube of choice on your patch- the opinions about what are endless. I use spit, literally sucking on the patch while I measure powder and pour.
  • center the patch over the bore and set your ball on the patch.
  • use a "short starter" to seat the ball flush or just below the muzzle
  • use a sharp knife to trim the patch excess flush with muzzle You just want the ball nested in the patch, you don't want a lot of excess.
  • Use your short starter to drive the ball down a couple inches
  • use your ramrod to seat the ball firmly against the powder charge
  • get in firing position
  • pur a cap on the nipple
  • fire!
I'm still working with a pot dad gave me 15 years ago! But...they reintroduced it a while back and the formula appears to be just the same.

http://www.redsgear.com/birchwood-c..._TXIZKLvXSja33VH_zUPXR74xTtUDaofVYaAsN88P8HAQ
 
Tim said:
Between shots, you'll want to swab the bore once or twice with a wet patch followed by a dry patch. Either plain water, Windex or an overpriced commercial product.

Black Powder is a "salt", the water/Windex serve to neutralize the salt and prevent corrosion.
  • After a shooting session with BP it is essential to clean the bore well.
  • I fill a 5 gallon bucket with HOT WATER and mild dish soap
  • remove the barrel and stick the breech end of the barrel in the bucket
  • pour some of the water into the barrel
  • wet a patch and run it down the barrel
  • Chdamn pump the ramrod (shut up Chad) to get the soapy water pulling in through the percussion cap nipple
  • change out the patch several times until it's clean
After it's clean, do same as above with VERY HOT CLEAN WATER.....like, too hot to touch. You want to neutralize and salts and the heat will cause the barrel to dry quickly when you're done. Then run a couple dry patches.

Run a heavily greased (I use RIG) patch down the bore for storage/protection.
I'm still working with a pot dad gave me 15 years ago! But...they reintroduced it a while back and the formula appears to be just the same.

http://www.redsgear.com/birchwood-c..._TXIZKLvXSja33VH_zUPXR74xTtUDaofVYaAsN88P8HAQ
 
Tim said:
Between shots, you'll want to swab the bore once or twice with a wet patch followed by a dry patch. Either plain water, Windex or an overpriced commercial product.

Black Powder is a "salt", the water/Windex serve to neutralize the salt and prevent corrosion.
  • After a shooting session with BP it is essential to clean the bore well.
  • I fill a 5 gallon bucket with HOT WATER and mild dish soap
  • remove the barrel and stick the breech end of the barrel in the bucket
  • pour some of the water into the barrel
  • wet a patch and run it down the barrel
  • Chdamn pump the ramrod (shut up Chad) to get the soapy water pulling in through the percussion cap nipple
  • change out the patch several times until it's clean
After it's clean, do same as above with VERY HOT CLEAN WATER.....like, too hot to touch. You want to neutralize and salts and the heat will cause the barrel to dry quickly when you're done. Then run a couple dry patches.

Run a heavily greased (I use RIG) patch down the bore for storage/protection.
Amen to this. I have a used BP revolver I bought and when I finally broke it all the way down I found rust, rust and more rust. Don't think the previous owner ever cleaned it internally.
 
I always used tap water to cleam my pistol. Track of the wolf has a good website for supplies. Get an adjustable powder measure.
 
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