Who sharpens?

dave421

dave421

Well-Known Member
Charter Life Member
Benefactor
Multi-Factor Enabled
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
866
Location
Hickory area
Rating - 100%
29   0   0
I've given up trying to get good edges on my knives. There was somebody over at the canadian place that used to have a sharpening service. Are they on this board too? I've got several knives I'd like to get cleaned up. Some of them need touch up, some are neglected, etc. Anyone know who that was/if they're on CFF?
 
I sharpen knives from time to time. Used to do the sharpening at my hunting club and did them when I worked part time at the meat dept at food lion years ago. I can't help you with a serrated blade, but I can put an edge on something if you're local.
 
dave421;n96848 said:
I've given up trying to get good edges on my knives. There was somebody over at the canadian place that used to have a sharpening service. Are they on this board too? I've got several knives I'd like to get cleaned up. Some of them need touch up, some are neglected, etc. Anyone know who that was/if they're on CFF?
Click to expand...

I hear ya! Sharpening knives is an art which I have so far failed to master. I can get a knife sharp-ish, but anything past that is beyond my skill.
 
Nobody has locations in their info. Anyone close to the Hickory area?
 
dave421;n96905 said:
Nobody has locations in their info. Anyone close to the Hickory area?
Click to expand...

My uncle does it professionally. I'll ask him about times and prices.
 
I bought a book and a couple cheap stones. Did one old blade half assed and one really well. Learn about angles and stones and you can get a decent edge pretty quickly. But it definitely takes time to get it done. I am not close yet. The cheap ass Chinese stainless steel I practice on is difficult to get very sharp. The softer steels I have messed with have come out nice. So don't give up if your first blade or two are so so.
 
I do all of f mine and I'm pretty good at it. I stone sharpened all of my axes and machetes too. You can shave off of most of them!
 
Been busy with midterms, and checked in here and saw two notifications for this thread. :p

Certainly, Mattyb should get first dibs.

Perhaps, though, you should specify the knives?

For example:
Brands/types of steel? Only an issue, because, as some mentioned, chinese steel doesn't take a great edge. Best thing I've found for chinese steel is a fresh 400 grit sanding belt, any belt that's not fresh and coarse won't put a good edge on chinese steel, but that's just my experience.
Serrated or non serrated knives? Harder to sharpen serrated.
Regular double beveled knife, or is it one of those single beveled knives, or maybe a tanto?
More kitchen knives, or edc knives, or outdoors knives? The angle is different.
Did you want it scandi ground or convexed? Is there edge or tip damage? What level of cleaning is there?

Any pics?
 
dave421;n96905 said:
Nobody has locations in their info. Anyone close to the Hickory area?
Click to expand...

I can do smaller jobs for free. I sharpen regularly, as a result of camping and tool use, as well as the fact that I'm a regular straight razor shaver. I use graduated stones down to 12000 grit finishing/waterstones, then strop the blade with a diamond abrasive.

I live in Hickory. It's more a hobby for me than a professional thing, hence why I never charge when I sharpen for a friend or family member.
 
Schattenreiter;n97553 said:
Take a look at this. I have one and anyone can do it with one of these.
http://lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I have and it works beautifully. The trick is maintaining a constant angle and never letting it "round over". This system keeps the blade pretty much on an even angle and you can put a mirror edge on a blade if you want to take the time.
 
one of the best "decent edge in a hurry" tools you can get, IMHO, is an EZ-Lap 6-inch diamond stone. It can take a knife that's starting to go dull back to shave-your-face sharpness in about 10 minutes with some practice. I have arkansas stones, oil, leather strops, etc, and they do a great job, but for a knife that's used in the field a lot and doesn't need to do surgery, the EZ-Lap is my go-to.

Also, try stropping on cardboard. It does a shockingly good job as a strop.

The key is to go slow while your learning, and pay attention to your angles. Keep it consistent. I prefer to sharpen in sets, say, 10 reps on one side of the blade, then 10 reps on the other. Then 9 on each side, then 8. Finish off with 5 alternating strokes on either side. Unless your knife is butterknife dull, or has been abused cutting electric fence wire, that should get it plenty sharp.
 
pinkbunny said:
Been busy with midterms, and checked in here and saw two notifications for this thread. :p

Certainly, Mattyb should get first dibs.

Perhaps, though, you should specify the knives?

For example:
Brands/types of steel? Only an issue, because, as some mentioned, chinese steel doesn't take a great edge. Best thing I've found for chinese steel is a fresh 400 grit sanding belt, any belt that's not fresh and coarse won't put a good edge on chinese steel, but that's just my experience.
Serrated or non serrated knives? Harder to sharpen serrated.
Regular double beveled knife, or is it one of those single beveled knives, or maybe a tanto?
More kitchen knives, or edc knives, or outdoors knives? The angle is different.
Did you want it scandi ground or convexed? Is there edge or tip damage? What level of cleaning is there?

Any pics?
Click to expand...

I need to get them all together. 3 spydercos (2 Delica VG10 I think, & 1 PM2 S30V that's chipped) and then some kitchen knives (1 Henkel and 2 Wusthof Santokus) off the top of my head.
 
I can sharpen your knives for you, if you'd like, unless @Mattyb wants to do it.
 
You need to learn to sharpen your kitchen knives because if you actually use them a lot the edges gets dulled after a relatively few cuts and needs constant touch up.

I use a fine diamond stone starting with 4 strokes on each side then 3, 2 and 1. Keeping a consistent angle is the key and use the stone wet. You will be able to hear and feel when you have the angle right.
 
Sending them to me near Sanford/Fayetteville and back from Hickory might make it not worth the cost/effort, if you are closer to @pinkbunny , you are welcome to it. I am keeping busy with the ones I make.

DSCN4173 (800x600).jpg
 
I sent 4-5 knives to @pinkbunny from here in SC. A few Kabars both serrated and non, a Hissatsu Folder EDC knife and a big ol' Colt Jungle Commander.

Well worth the little extra cost for shipping. He did an excellent job and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
 
Mattyb said:
Sending them to me near Sanford/Fayetteville and back from Hickory might make it not worth the cost/effort, if you are closer to @pinkbunny , you are welcome to it. I am keeping busy with the ones I make.

View attachment 3040
Click to expand...

I'm still trying to get everything together and decide what I want to have done now vs later so I'm not sending everything off and left with nothing. I really like that one that you posted. Good looking knife.
 
It's not as hard to sharpen as you might think. I haven't been able to master it for years but I finally figured out the right combination of tools and technique and it's so simple it stunned me.

I'm using a cheap Smith sharpening set with the angle guide, much like the Lansky set. That, a stand and some electrical tape on the jaws was all I needed to finally get knives hair popping sharp!
 
RedneckFur said:
Also, try stropping on cardboard. It does a shockingly good job as a strop.
Click to expand...

My dad was skinning wire with my CRKT fossil today. I brought it in a few minutes ago, started with about 5 strokes on each side down to one. Then tried the cardboard. It sure as hell didn't hurt anything. I believe it's sharper now than it was new
 
dave421 said:
I'm still trying to get everything together and decide what I want to have done now vs later so I'm not sending everything off and left with nothing. I really like that one that you posted. Good looking knife.
Click to expand...
Thanks. It's one that I have made.
If @pinkbunny doesn't want to/can't do it, and you don't mind shipping them, we can work something out, with the understanding that I am in the woods 10-13 days out of most months and would have to work it in while I am making knives.
 
I'm holed up in a cabin right now for spring break, next week, if you want, I'd be happy to sharpen them for you. All I ask is that you pay for shipping.

If you were closer, I'd just come up and show you how to sharpen, but it is a bit of a drive to Hickory from Charlotte.

A few things though:
A harbor freight 1x30 belt sander does an amazing job of sharpening. It's basically the modern version of the spinning stone on a wheel. Some 400 grit, 1000 grit, and a leather or felt strop and jewelers rouge bought on the internet will do just about anything. The slack portion allows you to convex edges and sharpen serrations, the platen allows you to get a precisely flat edge.
Lot of video's out there, just make sure:
1.) Don't go too long on it, or you'll mess with the temper of the blade. Lift off before you get to the edge of the belt, or you'll put too much pressure on the tip
2.) When you first start out, you'll place the knife at what you think is a pretty sharp angle. Go narrower than that, really. No matter how acute people think they're going when they first start out, its always more obtuse than it should be.
3.) The belts will wear out. If you get to where you can't put a good edge on it, it's probably just that you need a fresh belt.
4.) However, some steel is just utter crap and won't take an edge.

Stropping:
Stropping is great for keeping a great edge on an edge that's already sharp. Don't expect it to help with a dull blade, but it will greatly help with a sharp edge.
Cardboard uses silicates as a binding agent. That's why it ruins knives to cut into it(harder than steel), but also why, like leather, it's great for stropping. With some metal polish or jewelers rouge, or even by itself, it's great for maintaining an edge.
 
I would echo everything that @pinkbunny says.

I use either a Japanese water stone or my 2x72 knife grinder, depending.

You aren't going to get a better deal than getting them sharpened for the price of shipping.
 
Only way to really learn to sharpen is to understand the burr. If you just do even number of strokes per side you may or may not end up with a sharp knife. Do one side until you can feel the burr, then the other. Keep going back and forth on the same rough grit until the burr that you're chasing is uniform across the whole blade. Once it is uniform, you can move on to progressively finer and finer grits. Just like before, feel for the burr, then switch. At some point you will lose the burr because it will be so fine that you can't feel it.

I recommend the DMT Dia-Sharp stones. They cut fast and even, and leave a really nice burr that you can feel on the coarser stones. Also, what was mentioned about steel quality earlier is true. You aren't going to take chinese junk steel to the level of sharpness as a good steel. In fact it is very frustrating to sharpen chinese steel. Good luck!
 
RockRiver said:
Only way to really learn to sharpen is to understand the burr. If you just do even number of strokes per side you may or may not end up with a sharp knife. Do one side until you can feel the burr, then the other. Keep going back and forth on the same rough grit until the burr that you're chasing is uniform across the whole blade. Once it is uniform, you can move on to progressively finer and finer grits. Just like before, feel for the burr, then switch. At some point you will lose the burr because it will be so fine that you can't feel it.

I recommend the DMT Dia-Sharp stones. They cut fast and even, and leave a really nice burr that you can feel on the coarser stones. Also, what was mentioned about steel quality earlier is true. You aren't going to take chinese junk steel to the level of sharpness as a good steel. In fact it is very frustrating to sharpen chinese steel. Good luck!
Click to expand...

8cr13MoV (probably the most common Chinese knife steel) is pretty easy to put a good edge on. The 440C that Ganzo uses is also easy to work with. Lots of Chinese makers are using D2 now and I'm growing fond of that steel. All three are far easier to work with than the "super steels" in any event.

Chinese steels in the 3cr and 5cr lines are not fun to sharpen in my experience. I have a few knives with those steels but avoid them now.
 
RockRiver said:
Only way to really learn to sharpen is to understand the burr. If you just do even number of strokes per side you may or may not end up with a sharp knife. Do one side until you can feel the burr, then the other. Keep going back and forth on the same rough grit until the burr that you're chasing is uniform across the whole blade. Once it is uniform, you can move on to progressively finer and finer grits. Just like before, feel for the burr, then switch. At some point you will lose the burr because it will be so fine that you can't feel it.

I recommend the DMT Dia-Sharp stones. They cut fast and even, and leave a really nice burr that you can feel on the coarser stones. Also, what was mentioned about steel quality earlier is true. You aren't going to take chinese junk steel to the level of sharpness as a good steel. In fact it is very frustrating to sharpen chinese steel. Good luck!
Click to expand...
This is pretty true. Just wanted to point out one odd exception. I have no idea why this is an exception, just noticed this, thought I should point out.

I've used a lot of sharpening systems. Stones, pull through, rods, electric, etc. 99% of them, this is true and good advice, go until you feel a good Burr throughout the edge.

When using the belt sander method I mentioned, you can't really feel a burr. You can actually see it sometimes, especially if the belt is brand new, but only some of the time. A lot of the time, I just have to guesstimate, and test it at the end. No idea why this is, but it's what I've noticed.
 
Vyntage said:
8cr13MoV (probably the most common Chinese knife steel) is pretty easy to put a good edge on. The 440C that Ganzo uses is also easy to work with. Lots of Chinese makers are using D2 now and I'm growing fond of that steel. All three are far easier to work with than the "super steels" in any event.

Chinese steels in the 3cr and 5cr lines are not fun to sharpen in my experience. I have a few knives with those steels but avoid them now.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, been a while since I've bought a knife made in China. A coworker of mine years ago used to bring me knives to sharpen and IDK what steel they were, because there were no markings, but it was so soft I couldn't get them to shaving sharp on a stone. I'd have to get it as close as I could and strop them forever and some would finally get there. In my experience, the super steels do take longer to sharpen, but with a good diamond stone it's not bad.

ETA: My uncle always carries old Shrade or "old timer?" knives, I can't remember. The blades are very soft. His reasoning is that he could sharpen it on a good flat rock if he has to.
 
pinkbunny said:
This is pretty true. Just wanted to point out one odd exception. I have no idea why this is an exception, just noticed this, thought I should point out.

I've used a lot of sharpening systems. Stones, pull through, rods, electric, etc. 99% of them, this is true and good advice, go until you feel a good Burr throughout the edge.

When using the belt sander method I mentioned, you can't really feel a burr. You can actually see it sometimes, especially if the belt is brand new, but only some of the time. A lot of the time, I just have to guesstimate, and test it at the end. No idea why this is, but it's what I've noticed.
Click to expand...
That is a weird thing. I've never used a belt so I had no idea.
 
RockRiver said:
That is a weird thing. I've never used a belt so I had no idea.
Click to expand...
I think the belt sander makes the burr too fine to feel. When you can see it, it looks like...the metal dust you pick up on a magnet, I guess. More like the steel version of gold leaf. Easily seen, not easily felt.

So, drawback of belt is that you sometimes have to go back a second time to sharpen a knife, but the benefit is you can go from chip removal to dull to razor sharp in about 3 minutes, so it's fine.
 
Good lighting also helps no matter what you use to sharpen. If you are inside it is a little harder to do but outside in the sunlight simply turn the knife until the sun is shining on the edge and you are looking directly at the edge . Move it back and forth slightly and watch for any sign of light reflected off the edge. If you can see one it ain't sharp.
 
MacEntyre said:
+1

I can sharpen knives with nothing but a couple of old stones, have done it all me life... but the Lansky rig is the best! View attachment 3552
Click to expand...
I agree my grandfather taught me how sharpen everything down to regular old saw blades but you're eight a lansky rig is best specially for people just trying to learn
 
Schattenreiter said:
Good lighting also helps no matter what you use to sharpen. If you are inside it is a little harder to do but outside in the sunlight simply turn the knife until the sun is shining on the edge and you are looking directly at the edge . Move it back and forth slightly and watch for any sign of light reflected off the edge. If you can see one it ain't sharp.
Click to expand...
Yep sure way to tell if edge is tight but you gotta make sure edge ain't just turned you always gotta feel edges first for turns
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom