3D printing Thread.

Djstorm100 said:
Congrats!
Basically the same one I have.. dump the right extruder..up the speed and let it go.
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I may consider one extruder as spare parts, but the prospect of printing two colors simultaneously fits my needs, too. Should this workout as I hope, I may buy a Creality CR-10 for larger projects. If speed becomes a factor, I'll get a delta style printer.

Which Replicator-ish model do you have? Have you upgraded anything for better prints, reliability or to extend the capability? I plan to print PLA and exotics (CF), but not much ABS. Of course, plans are always meant to be changed.
 
htperry said:
I may consider one extruder as spare parts, but the prospect of printing two colors simultaneously fits my needs, too. Should this workout as I hope, I may buy a Creality CR-10 for larger projects. If speed becomes a factor, I'll get a delta style printer.

Which Replicator-ish model do you have? Have you upgraded anything for better prints, reliability or to extend the capability? I plan to print PLA and exotics (CF), but not much ABS. Of course, plans are always meant to be changed.
Click to expand...

Creator Pro. I ditch the 2nd extrude because setting it up is a PITA (they can't be the same height) and if I was doing layers I could do it through the software..keep everything on and hot. Then just swap the filaments.

Keep things oiled (not grease) mainly the z-axis screw. What slicer program are you running?

This was all done with one extruder. So don't limit your self.

IY7aDL2.jpg
 
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Creator Pro was what I just about bought, before finding the QIDI. There appears by all account to be no significant difference in the two, but I liked the windowed side panels, metal back panel and saved $350 over the CP. There is now another Replicator clone that has no panels, but metal frame and is only $360 delivered. I understand this is a good design.

The scope ring looks great. Initially I will leave the printer as-is and then get into changes or mods.
 
Wow - it's $150 now. For now, I'll start with the provided slicer software, but am sure you're right about eventually needing S3D. I'm not a CAD guy, so am going to have to make a lot of mistakes in the learning process.
 
htperry said:
Wow - it's $150 now. For now, I'll start with the provided slicer software, but am sure you're right about eventually needing S3D. I'm not a CAD guy, so am going to have to make a lot of mistakes in the learning process.
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Yea it is worth it gives a lot of control. Switch the feed to mm/s and don't go over 40mm/s

Measure your filament with calipers in 10 places over course of 6 foot. Use the average for the slicer. Get a glass bed


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Djstorm100 said:
Congrats!
Basically the same one I have.. dump the right extruder..up the speed and let it go.
Click to expand...

Okay - I've assembled this Chinese puzzle box. Do you suggest turning the heat on the right extruder to the lowest point and not use for now? I don't want to remove it just yet; not until I see it print. Is the left extruder the primary, nozzle #1? Lacking good instructions, it's time to watch a bit of YouTube. ;) Gonna waste some PLA tomorrow.

2017-09-21 19.23.45.jpg
 
Sweet! Yea extruder 1 is the one on the left (looking at the machine). Your slicer software can control the temps if you allow it but I would just turn it to lowest setting. If you just use the left extruder in the software, the right shouldn't turn on. Look up Flashforge it's almost the same machine.
 
I set the printer to single extruder in the menu on the printer. I then preheated the extruder and it was the right one. In the slicer software the default nozzle is the right. Must be opposite the Creator Pro, like the heated bed having two screws in the front and one center rear (opposite, too). This printer runs sailfish firmware, which I think is open source and slightly different from the FFCP. I've got a couple of knobs about 1" diameter I'll test print and hope for the best. ;) Lot's to learn.
 
A lot of printers run sailfish..FFCP does as well.

Because of that you should download FFCP software and use their slicer it's a lot better than what it came with but baby steps.

My bed at 1 screw center in the front and 2 on the back ends (triangle but just spun 180 degrees). Biggest thing is getting your bed level. Heat it up and let it heat for 15-20 mins then set bed clearance

Looks great! Welcome to the club.
 
Doing great on the second test print, a SD card holder. I am very impressed with the output quality compared to some of the horror prints I've seen from friends and on google. Starting to build the top layers now. QIDI recently came out with their own slicer software and that's what I'm using now to print thingiverse models. Yep, baby steps.

2017-09-22 09.34.41.jpg
 
Djstorm100 said:
with a indicator. Do you have a glass bed?
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No. Aluminum, 6.3mm, but the process with this printer is that it positions the xyz to the middle of the bed and instructs you on the display to move the extruders by hand to various checkpoints on the bed. It's not automatic. The dial indicator works very well, but I'm equally comfortable dragging the supplied plastic gauge through it. I really like the knobs I printed for the leveling wing nuts.

I've printed a dozen items today and am blown away by the accuracy and quality of the finished work. I couldn't be happier with this purchase.
 
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How much are these kits running yall?
And how hard is it to learn to design parts on it?
 
htperry said:
No. Aluminum, 6.3mm, but the process with this printer is that it positions the xyz to the middle of the bed and instructs you on the display to move the extruders by hand to various checkpoints on the bed. It's not automatic. The dial indicator works very well, but I'm equally comfortable dragging the supplied plastic gauge through it. I really like the knobs I printed for the leveling wing nuts.

I've printed a dozen items today and am blown away by the accuracy and quality of the finished work. I couldn't be happier with this purchase.
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Yes, your machine is the exact same as mine and of a marker bot. You can use a business guard of computer paper. Get your self a glass bed and print the parts needed like the z axis spacer. You think you are good now, glass bed and a swiss tip are tits.
 
I do plan to add the Micro Swiss tip set. Ultimately, for my needs, I'll be running exotics, carbon fiber.
 
HMP said:
How much are these kits running yall?
And how hard is it to learn to design parts on it?
Click to expand...

The QIDI Tech 1 isn't a kit. It's 95% assembled when you get it. On eBay it's $699 delivered from China, but if you contact Fiona @ the factory she'll ship it from Los Angeles and accept a $599 offer delivered. I have her email address if you want to bypass eBay. The pre-sale support was great. Look on Amazon and you'll see the reviews are excellent.

Another Makerbot clone is made by CTC for $359 delivered on eBay. It looks the same without the lexan doors on front and sides. If I bought another, it might would be a CTC and use it for PLA only.

My next printer may be a larger delta style.
 
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HMP said:
pla?
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There's different types of raw material filament. PLA is a low temp water base oderless filament that is very popular due to being low cost. Other filament types are higher temp, higher strength or even flexible. There are exotics like wood, metal and carbon fiber. PLA is easiest to use too.

Filament looks like weedeater line.
 
Yes, i was just reading yesterday about 3D printing Carbon Fiber and how strong it was...incredible!
 
I actually find the dual extruder works very well when printing two colors at the same time or to have two colors available for print.

2017-09-24 18.44.18.jpg
 
The drone motor mounts came out good. So far this printer is worked great on about 2 dozen items. I'm using two different brands of PLA and both run just fine, the parts very well finished and strong. This is a set of drone motor mounts for a quad and a small enclosure for the pixhawk power module.

2017-09-24 18.41.25.jpg
 
@Djstorm100

Broke down and bought Simplify3D. I really liked QIDI Print and learned it pretty well this week, but there were options that didn't work. All the Chinese overlords could would say is "print test file" and "software ok". They pretended not to understand the faults. Having worked for 2nd language speakers a good bit, I know they pretend not to understand when convenient.

Anyway, I can't say I'm tickled about buying S3D. Getting the first model to run was very frustrating. My main frustration now is that it will not preheat the bed and extruders at the same time. I've read that's by design to lower stress on the power supply. It should be an option though. Really slows the start of a print. I am manually preheating now to work around the "feature".

I see S3D is very comprehensive. As I delved into it, I'm sure I will come to appreciate S3D and maybe one day accept that $149 was a value. They better have great support. ;)
 
Would either of you guys be willing to do some prints of things? I found a few things I would like to print. Of course I'd compensate for time/material.
 
htperry said:
@Djstorm100

Broke down and bought Simplify3D. I really liked QIDI Print and learned it pretty well this week, but there were options that didn't work. All the Chinese overlords could would say is "print test file" and "software ok". They pretended not to understand the faults. Having worked for 2nd language speakers a good bit, I know they pretend not to understand when convenient.

Anyway, I can't say I'm tickled about buying S3D. Getting the first model to run was very frustrating. My main frustration now is that it will not preheat the bed and extruders at the same time. I've read that's by design to lower stress on the power supply. It should be an option though. Really slows the start of a print. I am manually preheating now to work around the "feature".

I see S3D is very comprehensive. As I delved into it, I'm sure I will come to appreciate S3D and maybe one day accept that $149 was a value. They better have great support. ;)
Click to expand...

Preheating the bed and exturder is little compare to the amount of control you have with S3D and the constant update/forums. If you have questions on that software I can be more help.
 
What about scanning/replicating? Is that something that is easy to do?
 
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