10/22 Binary Fully-Simi-Automatic or Just Simi-Automatic?

Ṡalinnis

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After months of research, a lot of patience, and a little negotiating... I finally found myself the Ruger 10/22 Takedown of my dreams. My aspirations were through the roof here. ;)

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She is a beauty, in my opinion, and fits the bill as desired. Except for one unimportant detail. I was told before hand that the installed Franklin Armory binary trigger does not function as intended in position 3. Not much matter, as I don't really have much want for it.

Against my deepest desires, after getting it home, giving a quick interior inspection, plinking around for a bit, confirming that position 3 does indeed function as it does in position 2, simi-automatic. I went to youtube and various forums to see what's the what with it. Apparently, most of these trigger kits for the 10/22 are just an expensive way to get a heavier trigger with a rotating safty selector vs a button.

Since neither i nor the seller saw much point in sending the trigger in to FA, with multiple sources stating that FA will receive your trigger on RMA, shipped on your dime, then return it to you with a no fault found note, I went to town on the trigger attempting all of the various "modifications" to achieve successful operation.

I have come up fruitless in my efforts. And since returned the trigger back to the way Bill Ruger intended, but i can't help to feel somewhat defeated by Franklin Armory and this silly little trigger. Anyways, Other than a ventilation point here, I am curious to know if anyone else has installed one of these triggers with similar results, made modifications to achieve function, or installed fully functional as described?
 
Position 3 should be binary, forced reset, or something else?
 
Position 3 should be binary, forced reset, or something else?
It should be binary, but instead it remains simi-auto with no noticeable change in trigger action between 2/3. It would seem there is some kind of manufacturing defect somewhere.
 
It should be binary, but instead it remains simi-auto with no noticeable change in trigger action between 2/3. It would seem there is some kind of manufacturing defect somewhere.
Probably something easy to see if you have a fixture that allows you to see the mechanism, but hard to figure out otherwise. First thing I’d do is fire one round and hold the trigger back, manually cycle the action, then release the trigger and see if it fires on release.
 
First thing I’d do is fire one round and hold the trigger back, manually cycle the action, then release the trigger and see if it fires on release.
I did try this, with trigger pack in-hand, and reinstalled in the stock with live ammo. Doing so gives a more mechanical(audible) trigger rest, but still doesn't fire on release.
This is a simple fix...
Gibs me dat!
Do tell.. I tried 4 different attempts.

First: I took the pack down to bare and reinstalled following Franklin Armory's walk through.

Second: by way of a forum research, I replaced the FA supplied trigger spring with the Ruger supplied spring.

Third: per a forum research of removing 1-2 coils, I removed 1 coil off the FA supplied spring, pack in hand functions test, removed spring again and an additional coil.

Forth: I removed the safty selector, and took a dremal to the cut that is intended to be "position 3" on the selector it's self. I didn't overdo this step, due to a walk through stating to be sparing with this attempt.

The trigger functioned reliably in my time with it, but not as advertised.
 
I did try this, with trigger pack in-hand, and reinstalled in the stock with live ammo. Doing so gives a more mechanical(audible) trigger rest, but still doesn't fire on release.

Do tell.. I tried 4 different attempts.

First: I took the pack down to bare and reinstalled following Franklin Armory's walk through.

Second: by way of a forum research, I replaced the FA supplied trigger spring with the Ruger supplied spring.

Third: per a forum research of removing 1-2 coils, I removed 1 coil off the FA supplied spring, pack in hand functions test, removed spring again and an additional coil.

Forth: I removed the safty selector, and took a dremal to the cut that is intended to be "position 3" on the selector it's self. I didn't overdo this step, due to a walk through stating to be sparing with this attempt.

The trigger functioned reliably in my time with it, but not as advertised.
Someone had one at Battery Oaks that I shot and it worked perfectly. I was really wanting one but this sux. Did you get the original trigger group with it? I put the volquartzen kit in mine and I love it. Maybe you could mod the original and play with the binary some more....
 
Someone had one at Battery Oaks that I shot and it worked perfectly. I was really wanting one but this sux. Did you get the original trigger group with it? I put the volquartzen kit in mine and I love it. Maybe you could mod the original and play with the binary some more....
This one is just the hardware kit, so utilizes the stock Ruger trigger housing. Been reading that the drop in FA binary trigger assemblies such as This are working great.

I have a couple different theories I've come up with today about it.

The one that came with this gun might be NOS and FA has already fixed the current production trigger kits.

Another is that I'd need a trigger housing made by FA specifically for the 10/22, https://franklinarmory.com/shop/bin...franklin-armory-bfsiii-22-c1-trigger-housing/
For another $100, I'm not so sure I need it for how I intend to use this rifle.

I have x2 of the Franklin Armory binary triggers for AR lowers and they work great! Being why I was a little disappointed to not be able to figure this trigger out, without potentially spending more money to get it there.


@Infamous1 I'd almost tell you not to let my experience turn you off to the idea of getting one... but I'd consider either buying that pre-assembled trigger housing, or the trigger kit and FA's in house made trigger body. Without searching for problems with the trigger, there are great reviews and alot of videos on YouTube running them.
 
Friend of mine back in feb bought a binary for a 10/22, could not get it to work, took it to a gunsmith they could not get to work even after talking to franklin armory to try differ things finally they said ship it back to us with the customer housing. He has not got in back yet. He has been calling the gun shop if they have heard anything , nothing in 7 months. He is thinking about getting franklin to send his parts back to just put his gun back together and take the loss on the kit and what he owes the gun shop.
 
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Friend of mine back in feb bought a binary for a 10/22, could not get it to work, took it to a gunsmith they could not get to work even after talking to franklin armory to try differ things finally they said ship it back to us with the customer housing. He has not got in back yet. He has been calling the gun shop if they have heard anything , nothing in 7 months. He is thinking about getting franklin to send his parts back to just put his gun back together and take the loss on the kit and what he owes the gun shop.
Yep, I had read that they want your trigger kit AND housing sent in. That's a big NOPE from me, I happily voided any resemblance of a potential warranty with this trigger.

I may give it another stab if the FA trigger housing ever goes below $100 and not $15.99 shipping. Screenshot_20230913_214545_Chrome.jpg

I thought it would be a fun project and a neat little party trick to have in the 10/22. lucky enough the person I picked up the rifle from is a good friend and fair enough to take a loss on it.
 
Great looking rifle. I've been wanting a stainless steel 10/22 for awhile. I've heard accuracy issues with the takedown models, have you had any experience with that or is it overblown? Also, the Magpul stock is awesome. Doesn't it have some type of mag storage in the rear?
 
Great looking rifle. I've been wanting a stainless steel 10/22 for awhile. I've heard accuracy issues with the takedown models, have you had any experience with that or is it overblown? Also, the Magpul stock is awesome. Doesn't it have some type of mag storage in the rear?
I've not really had enough time or tried a variety of ammo to say for accuracy. Iron sights were on well enough for 2" plates inside of 75-50 yards with bulk Federal blue box. It is tapped for a rail, I may try my holosun 507c on it at some point, but compact and functional is what I desire most out of it.

The stock does accommodate x3 10rd mags at the cheek rest and as well the grip plug drops out like your typical magpul grip does. I fit a baggy with 20rds and a few patches inside their.

I'm on the hunt for a more discreet bag for camping and hiking than the typical ruger takedown back pack.
 
I've not really had enough time or tried a variety of ammo to say for accuracy. Iron sights were on well enough for 2" plates inside of 75-50 yards with bulk Federal blue box. It is tapped for a rail, I may try my holosun 507c on it at some point, but compact and functional is what I desire most out of it.

The stock does accommodate x3 10rd mags at the cheek rest and as well the grip plug drops out like your typical magpul grip does. I fit a baggy with 20rds and a few patches inside their.

I'm on the hunt for a more discreet bag for camping and hiking than the typical ruger takedown back pack.
That's awesome, I didn't know it held 3 of them. Have you seen the guy who makes those 3d printed trays that people make that holds 100 rds of 22lr in the stock?


There's a video of him with one.
 
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Little update here, had the good fortune of meeting up with @Waterlogged again today for a blessing in form of 10/22 parts. A BX trigger pack and the sweet BX double 25rd magazine. This gives me the opportunity to give another go at trying to make the binary trigger work, without being down the rifle over the trigger housing removed.

I have to say, while i can't produce the cadence of a binary trigger, the reduced power and short reset of the BX trigger is night and day over the factory kit..
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I have a problem with mine as well but think the video below will help in solving it.

 
I have a problem with mine as well but think the video below will help in solving it.
I did follow the steps in this video originally as well. I haven't taken the time to work on it again since my last post, but plan to get around to it some time soon.

If you do a specific modification and it works, please let us know here!
 
I bought FA’s housing last year and installed in that so I could keep my BX to swap out if needed and the FA has worked great so far. I remember reading people were getting better results in the FA housing also.
 
BX housing here in a Charger. FA runs like a scalded cat. Need drum mag now.
 
Any updates on this?
Im strongly leaning toward a FA kit for my takedown as well, but like everybody, trying to avoid the $99 FA housing.
 
Any updates on this?
Im strongly leaning toward a FA kit for my takedown as well, but like everybody, trying to avoid the $99 FA housing.
Personally, no luck here. I played with it some more and tried pretty much every potential from reddit/youtube/Google. I guess it's possible I got a bad/old run product. If you don't go the route I did, and completely squander your warranty, you may find better success than I did lol.

To be fair, it's not a bad trigger, the one I have just doesn't function as intended.
 
I never got back to mine but decided to buy the FA 10/22 trigger housing instead of trying to modify the parts. Just received it today and hope to install it sometime this weekend.
 
It seems like the FA housing is the easy win here, but if reports are true the trigger pull is significantly heavier. Stripping and polishing brand new parts does excite me , but im not likely going to do anything, in case warranty is needed. Is there any experience with what works to help placate us trigger snobs?
 
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