10 mm options

[NCFubar]

Here’s a curveball (I love throwin’ em too) … a 3rd Gen Smith & Wesson … a Model 1006 (or 1026) is a solid pistol and solid investment to me.

 

[Amps 13]

I might buy both based on these responses. Doesnt sound like i can go wrong.

Seems like ya did some how

 

[commiecuriocollector]

Seems like ya did some how

Ha I was thinking the same thing.

 

[Dirtydirtysouf]

If I had my dream 10mm it would be the bren ten with the Miami Vice flare

 

[92G]

question came up about factory FMJ “range” loads that are full power, so I chrono’ed my Sig elite 180 gr ammo this morning.

from an RIA 1911 5” barrel

1269.7 ft/s
ES 11.4
SD 4.2

aside from underwood, Sig’s FMJ loads are the only big-brand 10mm ammo Ive found that isnt watered down. other than this ammo I pretty much hate Sig.

 

[MacEntyre]

Here’s a curveball (I love throwin’ em too) … a 3rd Gen Smith & Wesson … a Model 1006 (or 1026) is a solid pistol and solid investment to me.

I have a 1026. Tha's why I sold my First Year of Production Colt Delta Elite. I love the S&W 1026, but selling Delta Elite was Stooopid!

 

[Get Off My Lawn]

I might buy both based on these responses. Doesnt sound like i can go wrong.

What happened to @Shooter24?

 

[confused]

What about the xdm in 10 mm?

 

[Johnny]

What happened to @Shooter24?

I heard he blew a seal, or maybe it was a gasket?

 

[pee wee]

question came up about factory FMJ “range” loads that are full power, so I chrono’ed my Sig elite 180 gr ammo this morning.

from an RIA 1911 5” barrel

1269.7 ft/s
ES 11.4
SD 4.2

aside from underwood, Sig’s FMJ loads are the only big-brand 10mm ammo Ive found that isnt watered down. other than this ammo I pretty much hate Sig.

agree with the Sig 10mm load for FMJ. Magtech box shows similar ft/s but don't know how accurate that is without crono.

 

[llaht]

Browning's original stop had a 5/64ths radius on the bottom corner. It was changed by the US Army in January 1918 to the now standard 7/32nds after complaints of the pistols being hard to manually cycle with the hammer down. Whenever I fit one, I go a little smaller...about 1/16th...though I've never measured it precisely, so it will vary a little...but 1/16th is close enough to call it that.

Yes, it adds to the slide's delay and thus reduces its velocity by adding extra resistance at the outset of the recoil phase, which bleeds off a little of the slide's momentum.

I'm responsible for getting this whole small radius stop thing started almost 20 years ago when I took one of EGW's oversized stops and cobbled one up for the owner of m1911.org to help him with a loose stop issue and mailed to to Greece. I cut it to the high end of tolerance because I didn't have his slide to fit it to, and just broke the bottom corner and swiped it on a stone until it radiused...my SOP. Like I said...nothing precise. Luckily, it dropped in and worked perfectly.

I discovered it about 50 years ago from cutting my teeth on old pistols, and liked its effect so much that when I ran out of gunshow junk parts box finds, I made my own. When George Smith started offering oversized stops with square bottom corners, I ordered them by the dozen.

About 10 days later, John started a thread titled "Amazing Reduction in Recoil" and it triggered a discussion that went on for more than 30 pages and over several months. I believe it's still up if anyone wants to go search, but you'll probably have to join before using the search command.

Yes. You can use a heavier hammer spring. Ned Christiansen routinely uses 25 pound springs in his 10mm builds, along with the small radius firing pin stop and 18 pound "recoil" springs.

PS

If you want softer recoil, drop the recoil spring a couple pounds. That's where about 90% of muzzle flip comes from.

John
have seen posts believe 1911.org in regards to not only a small radius, but a 'taper' to the firing pin stop, this supposedly did something about the contact between the hammer and firing pin stop surface (maybe increasing contact?)

 

[John Travis]

this supposedly did something about the contact between the hammer and firing pin stop surface (maybe increasing contact?)

That's some of Dan Niemei's sheep dip. What little difference it would make isn't worth the effort. Go just a little too far, and the face of the hammer doesn't hit the firing pin straight on. The best, most practical way to enhance the stop's effect is to simply leave the bottom square.

Niemi draws pretty pictures, but his practical understanding of the pistol's function is lacking, and trying to explain it to him is a waste of time.

 

[92G]

well OP gets banned (?) but the thread lives on! next range trip i will chrono some factory 10mm FMJ and post the results.

loving my new garmin chrono so always looking for a reason to use it.

--

update on 10 mm velocity measurements: I picked up a box of american eagle 180gr and PPU 170 gr FMJ. I also just purchased an assortment of 180 and 200 gr factory loads from SGAmmo. Once they arrive I'll share all the measurements with everyone (except for @Shooter24 I guess he won't see the results....sad).

 

[Shooter24]

well OP gets banned (?) but the thread lives on! next range trip i will chrono some factory 10mm FMJ and post the results.

loving my new garmin chrono so always looking for a reason to use it.

--

update on 10 mm velocity measurements: I picked up a box of american eagle 180gr and PPU 170 gr FMJ. I also just purchased an assortment of 180 and 200 gr factory loads from SGAmmo. Once they arrive I'll share all the measurements with everyone (except for @Shooter24 I guess he won't see the results....sad).

View attachment 774701

Not banned bro. Thanks for the info.

 

[Carlos Danger]

Here’s a curveball (I love throwin’ em too) … a 3rd Gen Smith & Wesson … a Model 1006 (or 1026) is a solid pistol and solid investment to me.

Didn't they have problems with frames or slides cracking?