1911 aftermarket parts

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I picked up a Springfield Ronin 4.25 in 9mm and I need to add a ambi safety because y'all aren't accommodating to us left handed folks.

70372605825__8E82398C-B1D7-4A1C-A64D-8DF3B194A82D.jpeg
I'm liking the two tone look and want to complete it with a blued slide stop, mag release, hammer, and grip safety.

Seems like Wilson is the name for parts, who else?
Secondarily, what's the likelihood of me accomplishing this myself? Or should I even attempt it?



So the first part is who is the
 
I picked up a Springfield Ronin 4.25 in 9mm and I need to add a ambi safety because y'all aren't accommodating to us left handed folks.

View attachment 622500
I'm liking the two tone look and want to complete it with a blued slide stop, mag release, hammer, and grip safety.

Seems like Wilson is the name for parts, who else?
Secondarily, what's the likelihood of me accomplishing this myself? Or should I even attempt it?



So the first part is who is the

Who: Wilson and EGW are solid, Fusion is there but I have heard conflicting reports with parts durability.

To do the parts yourself: do you own a good gunsmith screwdriver set, stones/files, a padded vise, and a decent set of calipers for measuring down to a thousandth? Do you have a good grasp on how each part works together when assembled?

It’s not plug and play like a Glock (except a mag release, that’s usually “drop-in”). None of the other parts require complicated fitting—you just need to know which area on each part needs fitting, work slow, and keep the consequences in mind: you “overfit” a safety, and it’s basically non-functional. You put the wrong size slide stop in, and you can screw up how your barrel locks up and even damage the link.
 
As to Fusion parts. Their entry level 1911’s wear out in under 5000 rounds. I’ve done it, as well as another member here. It colors my view of their parts.

I do also like EGW parts. I have however had particularly good luck with Wilson Bulletproof parts with more than one Springfield 1911 in particular.
 
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Use Wilson Bulletproof parts, versus their standard offerings. Just beware that nearly nothing on a 1911 is drop in like a Glock.

They’ll have to be fitted.
I felt like Wilson bulletproof parts were the answer.

I'd like to attempt it myself as a project but am also not opposed to just farming it out to someone competent.
 
I felt like Wilson bulletproof parts were the answer.

I'd like to attempt it myself as a project but am also not opposed to just farming it out to someone competent.
I’ve fit a lot of stuff to 1911’s, but am nothing more than a tinkerer who's fairly decent with his hands. I am no smith. I’ve fit thumb safeties, grip safeties, mag releases, triggers, sights, magwells...

My maiden attempt at replacing the the ignition components in a Springfield Prodigy was a failure, so I put the factory parts back in, which frankly worked fine after break in.

This was a Ronin I owned. Wilson low lever thumb safety, 10-8 rear sight, Night Hawk trigger, EGW (extended) mag release, S&A “mag guide”, swapped grip bushings to run standard stocks versus the slimlines they come with.
IMG_0318.jpeg
 
You put the wrong size slide stop in, and you can screw up how your barrel locks up and even damage the link.
Well...

The standard slidestop crosspin diameter is .195-.198 inch. Most run somewhere in the middle. An oversized pin runs to .200 inch.

Assuming that the barrel is correctly supported by the crosspin and lower lug, you can technically gain or lose a couple thousandths inch of vertical engagement, but that wouldn't really mean anything except with a match-grade barrel fitting, and even that would mean very little in the hands of the average shooter. You might see a very small difference from a sandbag rest with good eyes and a steady hand.

As for damaging the link, the nominal hole diameter is .203-.205 inch. Even with a .200 crosspin, that leaves a good bit of slack unless the barrel is short-linked and on the verge of binding the pin between the bottom of the link hole and the lower barrel lug. In all my years, I've never seen a new, ordnance-spec pistol with a link short enough to do that, even with a slidestop crosspin at the high end of tolerance. In any event, it's simple and easy to check for.
 
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As for damaging the link, the nominal hole diameter is .203-.205 inch. Even with a .200 crosspin, that leaves a good bit of slack unless the barrel is short-linked and on the verge of binding the pin between the bottom of the link hole and the lower barrel lug. In all my years, I've never seen a new, ordnance-spec pistol with a link short enough to do that, even with a slidestop crosspin at the high end of tolerance. In any event, it's simple and easy to check for.

I’ve had aftermarket pins on the bigger side of spec to slightly OD (0.198-.200”) change lockup significantly enough that the thumb safety would no longer engage. Either the link length or lug fit was holding the system just shy of full lockup—so the safety notch in the slide was not forward enough.

Both guns were Springfields. Bringing the pins closer to the factory diameter little by little, checking for good lug contact with marking fluid, got everything locked up and running.

The point for the original poster was to not expect drop-in fit with aftermarket parts, even the seemingly simple ones.
 
I’ve had aftermarket pins on the bigger side of spec to slightly OD (0.198-.200”) change lockup significantly enough that the thumb safety would no longer engage.
Then the links were way yonder too long to start with.

If the lower barrel lug is supported correctly by the slidestop pin and not "standing on the link" the most an oversized pin... .200 inch...can lift the barrel is by the radius...or half the difference between the stock pin diameter and the new one.

Example: If the stock pin is .197 and the new one is .200, it will provide an additional .0015 inch of vertical engagement. That's not a difference that you'd even notice with an ordnance spec pistol.
 
Before
PXL_20230616_103706767.jpg
After PXL_20230616_145907176.MP.jpgPXL_20230616_145900155.jpg

@fieldgrade and I was brave ( or foolish enough) to go run two mags through it in the backyard.😂

No fitting required, the thumb safety is a bit stiff, but I'm good with it for now.
 
Looks good!

Be sure to function check the thumb safety to be sure it’s properly engaging the sear (to keep it from going bang if you pull the trigger when it ain’t ‘sposed to).
I did.... Me and my fat fingers spent a lot of time getting the disconnector and sear back in place
 
If I may be permitted: the Ronin pictured upstream (not the OP’s) is listed in the BST section
 
If I may be permitted: the Ronin pictured upstream (not the OP’s) is listed in the BST section

I don't need another one... 😂... But maybe I do. 🤔
 
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