1966 valiant project 6/27 update

Good luck with a 273 V8. It would probably be the best fit in the Valiant’s engine bay. With a little work can out so nice power BUT as rare as they are parts are twice or more times than the price of say a 318 and high performance items like a cam, pistons, etc are almost custom orders … you can find a nice selection of 273 parts at egge.com but a good block might be the pricy piece.

You could almost build two 318’s for the cost of a 273 and have nothing to show for it other than less power. The motor’s exterior dimensions are the same.
 
so decisions have been made
The car was originally silver, after taking to Chrysler historical members and doing a little digging very few cars were painted silver in 66’ and even less “a body” cars were. We don’t know exact numbers since all of the records were destroyed in a fire years ago. The paint matched with a red interior makes her stand out a little, and a very low number option, so we will be going back with AA1 silver. Also this was car number 390 for the year so a early/low number car. This paint option cost around 50.00 due to it being buffed at the factory.
We will not be keeping the 170, I really want to be closer to 350-400hp and that just isn’t going to cut it.
i hope to finish stripping the front end this weekend and will post pictures once it is finished. 64/65/66 are all one off years, and I have had 0 luck finding a 66 hood locally
 
I have a 318 block, tested, greased and ready to rebuild. I also have a pair of 360 heads and a factory 4bbl spreadbore intake. Lots of other parts too. I'd trade for a good running 170 with the trans. The transmissions for the slants aren't compatible with v8s anyway.

Also a Chrysler 8 1/4" rear will still handle the horsepower youre seeking so it doesnt have to be a 8 3/4. And its cheap and common. I don't have an extra, but nearly all the pickups, vans and rwd cars had them for 20+ years.
 
Productive weekend, got to work on it for about 3 hours yesterday and 3 today, stripped the grill, fenders, bumper, headlight buckets, inner fenders, and the rest of the front end body panels and some of the trim.

I have been keeping the deadline close to the chest, but if all goes well I will have the main body( not counting hood, fenders, doors, ect.) painted by December. This is also as long as the side work and overtime is there, if not and the funds don’t allow then it will take longer.

1F80B21B-B4FA-42C9-B5E1-5F0D23AA6951.jpeg11BB013B-5223-41FD-A920-36D72BF6432D.jpeg3B49B558-4420-4602-AC86-C0B04F9E930A.jpeg6C4C8ACD-D90D-40E7-9EC7-CF858B699538.jpegThere we a few places I was worried out but she has been mostly solid.
BBA4F5AD-D78E-43A6-B0AC-B6C80880B143.jpeg8EFD9851-964D-4E38-872C-495D4AEB8AD1.jpeg
 
Check out www.forabodiesonly.com .You will find a lot of knowledge and love for that car.I have been a member for years even though I never found that A body to put a big block in.A lot of great mopar knowledge on this forum.
 
Check out www.forabodiesonly.com .You will find a lot of knowledge and love for that car.I have been a member for years even though I never found that A body to put a big block in.A lot of great mopar knowledge on this forum.
I’m over there under the same name
 
For tearing it down … slow and steady with lots of baggies and labels … and 10 gallons of Kroil penetrating oil for stubborn nuts and bolts!
 
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