2024 Gardening Thread

beamernc said:
Keep them watered and you might be surprised. Maybe give them a shot of acidic fertilizer also.


Fire blight has almost killed all my pears, European and Asian. Fire blight and cedar apple rust have taken a toll on my apple trees as well.
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This is my apples & pears before I started using the New Bio fungicides.
Being organic growers since 1972 these new weapons against Blights, fungal, bacterial, & Viral have been a real GAME CHANGER. 😀

Last season we had a few dead tips on the Apples & pears, not the awful die off of tips we had before, the peaches although barren of fruit
had no issues with their leaves. 😃 My trees look healthy & full of fruit this season, these Bio fungicides are working miracles on both our fruit
& vegetables.
It took 2 seasons of spraying every 7 days with both BFs to cover everything:



It's never too late to start spraying with:





Back in 1972 we, Organic Growers were blending bad bugs up & spraying them back on the plant. 🤪 YEP!
Can't tell you how it worked but it did somehow. LOL

Organic growers try not use products that can target & kill non pest bugs & bacteria. So when a living Bio Fungicide was developed no one really knew just how important it really was.
Just this spring I saw an Organic supplier say you may want to water your seedlings with bio Fungicides to prevent Damp Off etc. I started 2 seasons ago & have perfect healthy seedlings. 😉








 
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Marturo said:
This is my apples & pears before I started using the New Bio fungicides.
Being organic growers since 1972 these new weapons against Blights, fungal, bacterial, & Viral have been a real GAME CHANGER. 😀

Last season we had a few dead tips on the Apples & pears, not the awful die off of tips we had before, the peaches although barren of fruit
had no issues with their leaves. 😃 My trees look healthy & full of fruit this season, these Bio fungicides are working miracles on both our fruit
& vegetables.
It took 2 seasons of spraying every 7 days with both BFs to cover everything:



It's never too late to start spraying with:





Back in 1972 we, Organic Growers were blending bad bugs up & spraying them back on the plant. 🤪 YEP!
Can't tell you how it worked but it did somehow. LOL

Organic growers try not use products that can target & kill non pest bugs & bacteria. So when a living Bio Fungicide was developed no one really knew just how important it really was.
Just this spring I saw an Organic supplier say you may want to water your seedlings with bio Fungicides to prevent Damp Off etc. I started 2 seasons ago & have perfect healthy seedlings. 😉








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What’s the typical spray interval for classic fungicides in your area? I’d go broke spraying every week.
 
Jimbob78 said:
What’s the typical spray interval for classic fungicides in your area? I’d go broke spraying every week.
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Here in Hooterville we are the epi center for the bacterial blights that is killing our Apple industry.
One Bio Fungicide cost 20 bucks per pint & you use 1 teaspoon per gallon & the one that kills & prevents blights cost 100 bucks for a gallon & you use 4 Tablespoons per gallon.
We spray 4 gallons every 7 days that's 4 teaspoons of GFF & 16 tablespoons per gallon of Cease.

Over the seasons I have lost way too much of my produce to blights, fungal & bacterial disease that has cost me plenty in time labor & materials.
After trying every way possible for the last 50 + years of growing my own food, I must say that pruning, feeding & spraying my plants on time with the right things makes all the difference.
Unfortunately it takes time mucho effort & Money to grow food well & be able to put food away for use later.

Conventional Apple Growers us an Antibiotic to try & control the infections & it hasn't worked that well so far. Perhaps Bio Fungicides may be the answer if some stubborn growers will try it.
 
Marturo said:
Here in Hooterville we are the epi center for the bacterial blights that is killing our Apple industry.
One Bio Fungicide cost 20 bucks per pint & you use 1 teaspoon per gallon & the one that kills & prevents blights cost 100 bucks for a gallon & you use 4 Tablespoons per gallon.
We spray 4 gallons every 7 days that's 4 teaspoons of GFF & 16 tablespoons per gallon of Cease.

Over the seasons I have lost way too much of my produce to blights, fungal & bacterial disease that has cost me plenty in time labor & materials.
After trying every way possible for the last 50 + years of growing my own food, I must say that pruning, feeding & spraying my plants on time with the right things makes all the difference.
Unfortunately it takes time mucho effort & Money to grow food well & be able to put food away for use later.

Conventional Apple Growers us an Antibiotic to try & control the infections & it hasn't worked that well so far. Perhaps Bio Fungicides may be the answer if some stubborn growers will try it.
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I’m talking about money in diesel fuel to run the tractor to spray
 
Jimbob78 said:
I’m talking about money in diesel fuel to run the tractor to spray
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Oh wow yer way bigger than me Brother, I understand now.

Is this what you were looking for?
This is what the conventional Apple growers use for today.


For control of fungal diseases, apply captan + sulfur when the first green tissue is visible in the spring and repeat at 7-10-day intervals until blossoms begin to open. Captan is more effective than sulfur against most apple diseases but acceptable apples can be produced with sulfur, although sprays will need to be applied more frequently than the combination of captan + sulfur. DO NOT spray an insecticide during bloom because insecticides can kill bees and other pollinating insects. However, spraying with streptomycin or copper just before rainfall during bloom at the rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water (0.8 oz streptomycin per 10 gallons) can aid in the control of fire blight.

When flower petals begin to drop, make a fungicide and insecticide application and repeat at 2 to 3 week intervals until 3 weeks before harvest. Use a 2-week spray interval if weather conditions are wet or there have been disease or insect problems in past years. You do not need to include sulfur in sprays with captan, beginning about 1 month after petal fall. Where cedar apple rust is a problem, include myclobutanil (sold under various trade names) in the sprays beginning at tight cluster and continuing for one month after bloom. If myclobutanil is used, you do not need to include sulfur in the spray program.
e3 growers use
 
Marturo said:
Oh wow yer way bigger than me Brother, I understand now.

Is this what you were looking for?
This is what the conventional Apple growers use for today.


For control of fungal diseases, apply captan + sulfur when the first green tissue is visible in the spring and repeat at 7-10-day intervals until blossoms begin to open. Captan is more effective than sulfur against most apple diseases but acceptable apples can be produced with sulfur, although sprays will need to be applied more frequently than the combination of captan + sulfur. DO NOT spray an insecticide during bloom because insecticides can kill bees and other pollinating insects. However, spraying with streptomycin or copper just before rainfall during bloom at the rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water (0.8 oz streptomycin per 10 gallons) can aid in the control of fire blight.

When flower petals begin to drop, make a fungicide and insecticide application and repeat at 2 to 3 week intervals until 3 weeks before harvest. Use a 2-week spray interval if weather conditions are wet or there have been disease or insect problems in past years. You do not need to include sulfur in sprays with captan, beginning about 1 month after petal fall. Where cedar apple rust is a problem, include myclobutanil (sold under various trade names) in the sprays beginning at tight cluster and continuing for one month after bloom. If myclobutanil is used, you do not need to include sulfur in the spray program.
e3 growers use
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2-3 week interval is what I was looking. I was curious if I could carry over the biological controls you mentioned to pecans. It looks like it’s a similar spray schedule with traditional fungicides so the ones you mentioned every week would eat me alive in fuel cost.
 
Jimbob78 said:
. I was curious if I could carry over the biological controls you mentioned to pecans
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If you watch the last U toob video She says you can use both Bio & traditional fungicides on an rotating basis for extra control & to stretch their effectiveness.
 
Just realized I haven't posted any pictures. White trash garden is coming along. One Inground bed is full of tomatoes (short plants) another Inground bed was planted today in the rain with bushing beans and potatoes and covered with grass clippings to hold in moisture. Above ground beds are coming along although the lettuce is just flowering going to seed. Still have to plant the long one with corn and a bunch of other crap wife has planned. All 10 chickens made it through the winter and we got 5 more chicks about a month ago. Waiting on them to get bigger before introducing them to the hens. Wife is concerned the plymouths will scalp the little ones.

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Gardner said:
I know the feeling

Most years I grow more than we can eat or give away

It's amazing how hard it is to give away food o_O
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Back in Tennessee we had a local library that had a stand up year-round where you could leave any amount of fresh produce, eggs, etc. Everything always seemed to get used, and it was even pretty useful to us when our hens decided to suddenly take a break from laying. Surely there's something similar in your area? If not, I've seen leftover produce offered up for free on craigslist before. Or there's always compost as a last, sad resort...
 
Marturo said:
Too soon to tell, but things are looking tasty so far. 😃 Last season 0 tree fruit.

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We planted a couple peach trees about three years ago. The last couple years they had like 3 peaches on each one of them for about a week before they got ate.

This year, holy shit. I bet there’s 200 peaches on each tree this year. There’s so many that I went and bought netting and put it over the trees to try and protect the peaches from getting eaten
 
Burt Gummer said:
We planted a couple peach trees about three years ago. The last couple years they had like 3 peaches on each one of them for about a week before they got ate.

This year, holy shit. I bet there’s 200 peaches on each tree this year. There’s so many that I went and bought netting and put it over the trees to try and protect the peaches from getting eaten
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Don't forget to thin them.

 
Burt Gummer said:
We planted a couple peach trees about three years ago. The last couple years they had like 3 peaches on each one of them for about a week before they got ate.

This year, holy shit. I bet there’s 200 peaches on each tree this year. There’s so many that I went and bought netting and put it over the trees to try and protect the peaches from getting eaten
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Sounds like you need to thin them to get some decent sized one. Spray early to prevent worms in the peaches and treat the tree to prevent peach tree borers.

Between the squirrels, worms and borers, I gave up on peaches.
 
beamernc said:
Sounds like you need to thin them to get some decent sized one. Spray early to prevent worms in the peaches and treat the tree to prevent peach tree borers.

Between the squirrels, worms and borers, I gave up on peaches.
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Ok. What do I spray them with? I’d like to get enough peaches for a pie, preferably without worms
 
beamernc said:
Between the squirrels, worms and borers, I gave up on peaches.
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I know, 2 years ago we got 1, big ass peach & last year we got none.
Growing peaches in WNC is like gambling, you get peaches, then you get craps.
But it's worth every bite when you get your own peaches, so I gamble 😃
 
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