Exspiravit
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- Thread starter Exspiravit
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IUHoosier429
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How about some of this?
MIL-SPEC Grease (MIL-C-11796C, Class 3)
Cosmoline Grease conforming to MIL-C-11796C, Grade 3. Sold by the Quart, Gallon, PAil or Drum. In-Stock Now at Cosmoline Direct!
www.cosmolinedirect.com
If not good old fashioned cosmoline, I'd hit everything with some compressed air, give it all a good wipe down with a rag dipped in synthetic oil, and wrap up in VCI bags. I'm not a fan of WD-40 for anything with firearms.
I vote leaving it alone. What color cerakote are you going to go with?
CarolinaColtCollector
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The good old canned aircraft stripper will do wonders, I use it on weld wheels.
Yeap, Anything made over the last 10 years is shit for finish. That’s why I sold the first 107fr I had. Finsh came off within a month. Guys that say their rifles don’t have fish issues are the same guys who don’t shoot them. .
ahhhhh..... Arsenal's finish.
Ive just accepted that they will develop a battle field pickup look and left them alone.... atleast they have a park under that "paint".
Although I bet a nice Cerekote would be a nice treat.
I look forward to seeing how your rifle turns out!
Ive just accepted that they will develop a battle field pickup look and left them alone.... atleast they have a park under that "paint".
Although I bet a nice Cerekote would be a nice treat.
I look forward to seeing how your rifle turns out!
Not really had an issue with my 106f.
The 106 pistol i bought from you i dont think ive really cleaned yet.. clp on bolt really.. Ive lazy about cleaning my shit lately.
Looking forward to final results.
The 106 pistol i bought from you i dont think ive really cleaned yet.. clp on bolt really.. Ive lazy about cleaning my shit lately.
Looking forward to final results.
Yeah, it def doesnt appear bad like those Ive seen, my 106f is same. Weird.
Btw...alumahyde might be good option too. Seems to be pretty tough once cured..prolly more so than the arsenal paint.
Negative on the oil or WD-40 soak. Your Cerakote finisher will need to thoroughly degrease all the parts prior to coating. I'd ask them first before dunking it. Putting all the parts in an oven on low (175F) overnight would drive all the water out.
Aircraft Stripper on paint and brake cleaner to strip water.
Will cerakote be applied over the park? Or is it blasted and then cerakoted?
Magdump
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Cerakote adheres very well to park
Didnt know if it was hollow and would hold the screws, thanks!
Pretty easy to retrofit. Seems like lots of countries that ended up with these rifles did just that.
IUHoosier429
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You might have lucked out and had a lobster-handed babushka make yours extra wet in the ((10)) paint booth. My 106F finish hasn't had any bubbling or cleaning issues either, but the finish on both of my 104 guns spots easily when cleaning, and my SAM7 paint is straight up weak sauce.
It's been pretty common knowledge going back to the 90s that Arsenal AKs have often suffered from lousy paint over park. It's even being seen in some of the newly released SAM5 guns.
My SAM5 looks pretty good but after I shot it 100 or so times (not rapid fire) it slightly changed the finish on the front end moslty near the gas block. I watched Mishaco's two videos on his and it looked the same before and after as mine. Kind of a brownish tint after shooting.
Its sorta like the paint "bakes" on around the gas block.
Ive always wondered of perhaps the finish issues come from the process of un-neutering the guns once they get them in the country.... perhaps they partially refinish them after changing out gas blocks or front sight blocks, whatever they do with the stocks, etc.
It would vary wildly depending on whom did it and whether they did it correctly.
I'm going to try some polymer furniture with this to lighten up an already heavy gun.
Got one of the molded Bulgarian surplus buttstocks you can find floating around for less than $20 and an Arsenal fde/sand colored handguard set with heatshield which I attempted to dye to a similar matching color. Did some experimenting with Coral Rit Dye as a base, adding small amounts of Race Car Red and Cocoa Brown. Might grab an FDE US Palm grip and try the same.
Love to know where I can find one of those stocks for $20
Bulgarian AK-47 Fixed Stock, Brown Polymer, 7.62X39, *Fair* (apexgunparts.com) $15.95 when they're in stock.
Well damn I thought they were hard to find as I've never seen them for sale on AKfiles.
Arsenal Red / Brown Polymer Buttstock for Milled Receivers
Brand New Bulgarian Reddish/Brown Polymer Buttstock for Milled Receiver.www.k-var.com
I asked how to much to do a coat in pink as a surprise. He didn’t think you’d enjoy it, and his price was too high.
I like it!
Back from the cerakote and looking great.
May not keep it like this, I'm generally not a fan of optics on AK's, but I thought I would try out this new German No.4 reticle Bushnell I picked up cheap.
A word to anyone who might buy the Bulgarian stock for their rifle- the plastic is very soft and the pre-formed screw holes don't match up with the Arsenal upper and lower tang, You'll have to drill your own, but be careful- the plastic is soft and there's some sort of aluminum shank in the stock that you will have to drill through if you want to use standard length AK screws.
You'll also have to do some sanding to get it to fit, but not much.
Is that an RS reg mount?
Back from the cerakote and looking great.
May not keep it like this, I'm generally not a fan of optics on AK's, but I thought I would try out this new German No.4 reticle Bushnell I picked up cheap.
A word to anyone who might buy the Bulgarian stock for their rifle- the plastic is very soft and the pre-formed screw holes don't match up with the Arsenal upper and lower tang, You'll have to drill your own, but be careful- the plastic is soft and there's some sort of aluminum shank in the stock that you will have to drill through if you want to use standard length AK screws.
You'll also have to do some sanding to get it to fit, but not much.
Sooooooo, what ya going to do with this beauty?
It's a lot lighter like this.
I fit the other stock this morning. I think the best way to go when attaching it is wood screws that are shorter than the standard AK tang screws and you wont have to worry about bottoming out on the metal insert and stripping the pilot hole in the plastic.