Acquired me a 1952 Ford 8N

Snal~

Snal~

I Run A Tight Shipwreck (Tragic Boating Accident)
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WNC/Laurens County, SC
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Got it (actually gonna get it Monday) from in-laws. Comes with one of those sweet rear blades that you can adjust from the seat. Anybody know about those blades? I've only seen them on Ford tractors. Has a hand wheel
reachable from the seat for tilt adjustment. Worth it's weight in gold for driveway work. Don't know why all rear blades aren't like that.
 
Nice score!

The best, hand down, implement for maintaining a driveway that I've ever used is called an Agritek Driveway Scraper. We use ours all the time, not only on driveways but also horse arena's, leveling out pastures, etc.

Much better than a box or straight blade, IMO.

www.agritek.com

Driveway Scrapers - Agritek Industries Inc.

www.agritek.com www.agritek.com
 
After looking at the pics I don't think the bladee is what I thought it was. Looks like the hand wheel is for the top link, not the blade.
I haven't even seen the tractor yet, for the price it didn't matter.
 
Can't go wrong having an 8n, love em!

Man that is the first I have seen of a top link like that…..I want one!

Likely a little bigger one for an old ford 850 (predecessor of the ford 3000 gas in my opinion)
 
Well, found out that this puppy is actually a 1950 (same as a 52). She had no fire, bad gas, and oily/dirty/nasty. After a good pressure wash I found that there had benn an apparent freeze-bust-repair on the block. Seems like an old old damage/repair that looks like it held.
Rebuilt the wiring harness, replaced everything ignition wise except points (they were operational) and still no fire. Replaced points.....FIRE! Took some starting fluid and fresh gas to get her to run briefly, but wouldn't stay running long. Carb is off, apart, and soaking in the parts cleaner. It was about as nasty inside as I've ever seen. Have a rebuild kit but I think everything is gonna clean up plenty good enough for use. Pretty simple carb.
I replaced the petcock/glass bowl and had NO fuel flow into the bowl. Put the original one back on and still had no flow (1/3 tank of gas). Dropped the glass bowl and as soon as I broke the seal gas started flowing.....WTF? Vapor lock with the gas cap off?....idunno.....wierd. It ran long enough to show great oil pressure but I haven't done a compression check.
 
Ammoholic said:
Can't go wrong having an 8n, love em!

Man that is the first I have seen of a top link like that…..I want one!

Likely a little bigger one for an old ford 850 (predecessor of the ford 3000 gas in my opinion)
Click to expand...

I took that top link apart for cleaning/painting. Glad I did. 70/30 dirt to grease ratio, and I want that sucker to keep on keeping on!
BTW...it DOES have that blade adjuster that I was hoping it had, it's just not exactly what I remembered it to be. It's a from-the-seat adjustable lift arm (right side) of the 3 point hitch.
 
Johnny said:
So that's for road crown, I thinks?
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With the "slop" of the 8N 3 pt hitch it's more of front to back tilt (minutely) to move material to the right or left, but if you roll it in/out far enough I'm sure there would be some rise/fall to it. With nothing attached, and the hitch down, it's all rise and fall when you crank it, but there's alot of slop when the blade hits the ground. That's one thing that I like about this tractor VS my Kubota. The hitch on the Kubota has NO slop, so if you drive over a bump while scraping the blade creates another bump unless you have the bottom set perfect and your hand on the lowering lever.
 
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Snal~ said:
With the "slop" of the 8N 3 pt hitch it's more of front to back tilt (minutely) to move material to the right or left, but if you roll it in/out far enough I'm sure there would be some rise/fall to it. With nothing attached, and the hitch down, it's all rise and fall when you crank it, but there's alot of slop when the blade hits the ground. That's one thing that I like about this tractor VS my Kubota. The hitch on the Kubota has NO slop, so if you drive over a bump while scraping the blade creates another bump unless you have the bottom set perfect and your hand on the lowering lever.
Click to expand...

My go to guy has a box blade with hydraulics on the top and left hitch point. I haven't figured out or asked about the geometry but he crowns the road in both direction.

I'm just a little jealous of your setup, btw. 😉
 
Johnny said:
My go to guy has a box blade with hydraulics on the top and left hitch point. I haven't figured out or asked about the geometry but he crowns the road in both direction.

I'm just a little jealous of your setup, btw. 😉
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Don't be jealous...made a new wiring harness, replaced all ignition components to finally get fire....now it's not getting fuel. Rebuilt the carb and still no fuel. Had the dang carb on and off 6 times, torn apart and back together, can't find a dang thing wrong but it still won't run! It'll run as long as I feed it starting fluid, but the carb just isn't feeding it and I can't for the life of me figure out why!
New carb guts, clean enough to eat off of inside and out, no gas trash, fresh gas, full bowl, good clean flow from the tank...it's got me baffled.
 
Snal~ said:
Don't be jealous...made a new wiring harness, replaced all ignition components to finally get fire....now it's not getting fuel. Rebuilt the carb and still no fuel. Had the dang carb on and off 6 times, torn apart and back together, can't find a dang thing wrong but it still won't run! It'll run as long as I feed it starting fluid, but the carb just isn't feeding it and I can't for the life of me figure out why!
New carb guts, clean enough to eat off of inside and out, no gas trash, fresh gas, full bowl, good clean flow from the tank...it's got me baffled.
Click to expand...

Been there, done, got the t-shirt. With luck you'll find it to be something silly. I'm not beyond putting a float in upside down 5 times in a row while pulling my hair out and making up new words..
 
Is the gasket/seal in the jet seat swelled up from reacting to the carb cleaner?
That’s all I can come up with.
 
Check the polarity of the electrical system, sometimes postive gounded get partially converted to negative so sometimes a switch of battery wires gets the fire to the plugs as needed.
 
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Post a picture of the carb. If it's the john deere carb. They are finicky replace it with a

Marvel Schebler​

 
Leadchunker said:
Is the float in the carb sticking?
Is the float installed upside down?
Is the inlet hole/jet plugged?
Is there a manual fuel shutoff valve in-line in the fuel system?
Click to expand...

Don't think it's sticking
Can't be installed upside down due to design
Float bowl fills with gas so good flow up to that point

After you mentioned gasket....I wonder if the new gasket has all the perforations in it for all the fuel passages.
 
Replace the insulator on the wire going through the distributor housing to the points.
If it isn't giving trouble now, it soon will.

Ford Distributor Power Inlet Screw Kit for Ford 8N,NAA,Jubilee,501,600,601,611,620,621,630,631,640,641,650,651,660,661,671,681,700,701,740,741,750,771,800,801,811,820,821,840,841,850,851,861,871,881,900,901,941,950,951,960,961,971,981,2000,4000,6000,

Distributor Power Inlet Screw Kit 350032-KIT for sale, This kit contains 350032S screw, 7RA12234 insulator, 7RA12233 bushing, # 10 flat washer and 2 10-32 nuts. This kit is used in conjunction with 8N12209 Primary Conductor, not included. It is used on Ford 8N serial number above 263843, NAA...
www.yesterdaystractors.com
 
With the gas line off the cut off valve are you getting gas flow? It's a gravity feed system so if the valve is working you should have gas. We sold a lot of those valves when we were a Ford dealer.
 
45/70fan said:
With the gas line off the cut off valve are you getting gas flow? It's a gravity feed system so if the valve is working you should have gas. We sold a lot of those valves when we were a Ford dealer.
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Plenty of flow to the carb. Float bow is full every time I take it apart.
 
Blackhawk44 said:
Replace the insulator on the wire going through the distributor housing to the points.
If it isn't giving trouble now, it soon will.

Ford Distributor Power Inlet Screw Kit for Ford 8N,NAA,Jubilee,501,600,601,611,620,621,630,631,640,641,650,651,660,661,671,681,700,701,740,741,750,771,800,801,811,820,821,840,841,850,851,861,871,881,900,901,941,950,951,960,961,971,981,2000,4000,6000,

Distributor Power Inlet Screw Kit 350032-KIT for sale, This kit contains 350032S screw, 7RA12234 insulator, 7RA12233 bushing, # 10 flat washer and 2 10-32 nuts. This kit is used in conjunction with 8N12209 Primary Conductor, not included. It is used on Ford 8N serial number above 263843, NAA...
www.yesterdaystractors.com
Click to expand...
I replaced all of the wiring and it's getting plenty of fire. As I said, it will run as long as I feed strata fluid via the breather.
 
I figure you know but if not pull the choke out or put hand over carb inlet while spinning over the motor. If no gas pull the carb apart and check the passage from the jet to the venturi for blockage or leakage. Good luck.
 
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I’ve been rebuilding carbs by cleaning them in the same ultrasonic cleaner that I use for pistols. Works great for cleaning out all of the small passages.
 
OldNascar said:
I figure you know but if not pull the choke out or put hand over carb inlet while spinning over the motor. If no gas pull the carb apart and check the passage from the jet to the venturi for blockage or leakage. Good luck.
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Yep, did that with choke and hand over the carb....no flow past the bowl. I've had this carb apart 4 times now.
 
Snal~ said:
Yep, did that with choke and hand over the carb....no flow past the bowl. I've had this carb apart 4 times now.
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Could be as simple as a hole missing in the gasket but irregardless the passage way from the jet to the venturi has to flow fuel. Either use pressure or vacuum while blocking one end to test the flow.

As a side note loosen the filler cap and see if that does the trick. Sometimes the gas flow is not flowing due to the cap but as soon as you loosen the gas line fitting the air lock stops and gas flows to the bowl giving you the impression the gas is flowing properly.
 
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45/70fan said:
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Yep, but from what I've read, none of the aftermarket carbs are as good as the Marvel. But....I may try that!
OldNascar said:
Could be as simple as a hole missing in the gasket but irregardless the passage way from the jet to the venturi has to flow fuel. Either use pressure or vacuum while blocking one end to test the flow.

As a side note loosen the filler cap and see if that does the trick. Sometimes the gas flow is not flowing due to the cap but as soon as you loosen the gas line fitting the air lock stops and gas flows to the bowl giving you the impression the gas is flowing properly.
Click to expand...
I loosened the cap like you suggested, the first time it didn't flow. Second time I had the carb back on I pulled the drain plug from the bowl and had steady flow even after the volume of the bowl came out.
Good idea about trying to force flow....I'll try that after inspecting the gasket.
 
Check the clearance on the float and the carb housing. It may not be the correct float. Somebody replaced it before you, possibly? If the float is too big and is being held up by the housing/bowl it won’t sink or go down. If the float doesn’t drop it won’t open the needle valve to allow fuel to flow past the bowl.
 
Some floats require a little adjustment to work properly. You may need to bend the metal rod/float arm to get it to work as well.
 
I think a guy on the old tractor forum has enlightened me. What I thought was the main jet is actually the needle/seat/power jet, which is pressed in and not removable under normal rebuild. I missed the actual main jet under the emulsion tube, which is probably clogged.
 
If you tighten the fuel bowl up too tight (cause we want it super tight, that's how we are) it wont breathe and will fuel lock. that gasket, usually cork, and most often replaced by a rubber one, has to allow some air to flow around. So, you will open the fuel knob, see fuel swishing around in the bowl, but then it wont flow to carb.

OldNascar said:
As a side note loosen the filler cap and see if that does the trick. Sometimes the gas flow is not flowing due to the cap but as soon as you loosen the gas line fitting the air lock stops and gas flows to the bowl giving you the impression the gas is flowing properly.
Click to expand...
I've had several do this. Its kind of a fine line, not too tight to allow it to breathe, not too loose so it wont leak.
 
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