Applying Threadlocker

gloom

gloom

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I just installed this red dot mouting plate /then/ I thought twice about how I applied the threadlocker. (Blue gel, Permatex 24005.) On the receiver I put a little threadlocker in the holes using a toothpick instead of on the bolts. Has anyone had trouble applying threadlocker that way?

On the one hole that goes all the way through the top of the receiver I noticed the gel formed a ring and at least that portion was pushed out the bottom. I'm hoping a sufficient amount actually coated the threads. (I applied the threadlocker directly to the threads of the bolts for the red dot itself.)

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It's easy enough to take the bolt out clean it with alcohol and coat the bolt instead of the threaded portion. I'm sure it's fine, it's a 22lr after all...

I have zero idea why but I've always applied either go fast juice, or go no where juice to the bolt. Never the nut. So idk if your application is sufficient. Btw Take a paint marker and throw a witness mark on there
 
Yeah what he said.

It’s a 22 so I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

I was always taught to apply to the bolt as well.

Like he said if you’re worried make a witness mark now so if it moves and you have to redo it you can put it back without losing your zero too badly.
 
Chdamn said:
Like he said if you’re worried make a witness mark now
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After a bolt broke on my AR rail I have severe paranoia. Possibly PTSD? Everything gets a witness mark.

Frack N Cylons said:
drown everything in loctite.
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Buck from c&h uses nailpolish... Or at least he did at one time, that was quite a few years back when I met him.
 
That mount could loosen up, but it doesn't look like it could fall off since the bolt heads are partially blocked. That little plug in front of the mount though, that's just loosely threaded in there, so if that holds the other bolts are likely fine.

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I found mixed views on how to apply threadlockers specifically for "blind hole" applications. (Meaning a hole that is doesn't pass completely through the material.)

Q: What is the proper way of applying LOCTITE threadlockers for blind hole applications?

A: In order to ensure complete coverage and cure, apply LOCTITE threadlocker to both the male and female threads for blind hole applications such as a bolt going into a closed housing. If it is applied only to the male threads and torqued down, air pressure will force most of the product back out as you assemble.

Other answers included applying the threadlocker only to the hole, or using a primer and only applying the threadlocker to the bolt. (I thought a primer is only used for plastics and I've never even used a primer.) Then there's, don't worry about it; just apply threadlocker like you usually down and torque it down! Which is probably what I should have done! heheh
 
Get Off My Lawn said:
If you fully degreased the male and female threads, torqued it properly, it’l work just fine.
Six vs. 1/2 dozen
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I pulled most of the cotton off of some Q-tips and cleaned out the holes with them dipped in rubbing alcohol. Some were dirty even though I probably tried to clean them before. The old mount bolts were not tight, but as I backed them out they tightened up a little before loosening again, which was strange. Nothing fell off or felt loose during use at least.
 
gloom said:
I pulled most of the cotton off of some Q-tips and cleaned out the holes with them dipped in rubbing alcohol. Some were dirty even though I probably tried to clean them before. The old mount bolts were not tight, but as I backed them out they tightened up a little before loosening again, which was strange. Nothing fell off or felt loose during use at least.
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That’ll do.
I usually use acetone in a can (brake cleaner), or 91% rubbing alcohol, then compressed air a couple times.
 
Go ahead and take it loose and do it the other way.

It's gonna bother you until you do.
 
Frack N Cylons said:
I've never used that. I suppose I'll have to when my 556 suppressor comes in.

I use red loctite on Glock front sights and AR gas blocks. A few quick passes with a propane torch always breaks it loose.
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Rocksett can withstand a lot more heat than red Loctite. I use it on muzzle brakes/mounting devices for supressed SBRs that see a heavy volume of fire and higher temps. It truly does not give at all.
Seems contradictory, but it's fairly easy to remove as well. Rocksett is water soluble, so soaking a part or sticking it into boiling water for a few minutes will break it free if the part requires removal.
Wifey walked in one day while I had the business end of a 7.5" AR upper stuck down in her big saucepot. She was very confused lol
I let it boil about ten minutes and the brake came off easily with hand tools.
Its good stuff, but I wouldnt put it on something that cant be submerged.
 
Get Off My Lawn said:
That’ll do.
I usually use acetone in a can (brake cleaner), or 91% rubbing alcohol, then compressed air a couple times.
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Yeah, I should have thought to use acetone. I used 91% IPA. Still could use a compressor or at least one of those cans that I can pressurize. And a grinder and a few other things. haha I just don't think I need certain things until after I needed them. heh
 
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