Ask the Elmer ( or "stump the radio geeks")

[JohnFreeman]

Ham radio can be overwhelmingly complex to enter or learn about on your own.

Let's use this thread to ask questions, get advice, etc...there's several of us here with years/(decades) of experience .

Feel free to ask anything. If it gets detailed , we can launch a new thread to drill into it in detail.

Ask anything...Ham radio is a fraternity and I and others are glad to give back.

John

 

[WeepingAngel]

I'll bring my question over from the other thread - what's the over/under on software-defined radios? What's good and what's crap? I'm not necessarily sold on one, but they look interesting.

 

[JohnFreeman]

OK - a couple of us are looking to venture into the HF space. I've got a mobile and a couple HT's for VHF/UHF, but how to do I make the leap into HF without needing a 3rd mortgage?

Another good question--

I'll editorialize a bit and advance the idea that HF (shortwave) IS the core of ham radio, and that the use of other parts of the spectrum spring from techniques, best practices and lessons learned in HF/Shortwave.

A short capsule recommendation?

Get a used HF transceiver (see my long diatribe on the other thread) and put up a dipole antenna or a sloper for 40meters. You'll make plenty of contacts (code ... my preference or voice) and you'll be able to try your hand at DX (working foreign stations) at night or the late afternoon. The 40m antenna will also work reasonably well on 15m so you'll get a two-fer.

If you get hooked at this, the sky is the limit, but you'll make many contacts on 40m with a 66' piece of wire in the air and an inexpensive solid state transceiver.

That's the short version from a logistical standpoint. 40 meters (7 Megahertz) is the most universally usable band there is....

 

[Lawless]

I will chime in because I recently went through this.

I got a used Kenwood TS430s that came with a matching power supply and a G5RV antenna (wire dipole) for $300

Since then, I bought a $160 MFJ antenna tuner (matches impedance of the feedline to the radio), a $80 MFJ power/SWR meter and some excellent lengths of LMR400 coax.
Coax is expensive. The 100' section of the 400max from DX Engineering was about $115. The shorter jumpers are $20-35.

I bought a Balun Designs balun to build another antenna ($110) and about $45 worth of wire (500' so enough to build a few more antennas).



I said it a few days ago here, HF is expensive. My main reasoning for radio is the ability to talk several hundred miles with ease (NVIS) and thousands if needed. HF is the only game in town and it isn't any more expensive than the AR we all have with all the gizmos on it....and radio is just as important in the scheme of things.

 

[Cape Fear]

I will chime in because I recently went through this.

I got a used Kenwood TS430s that came with a matching power supply and a G5RV antenna (wire dipole) for $300

Since then, I bought a $160 MFJ antenna tuner (matches impedance of the feedline to the radio), a $80 MFJ power/SWR meter and some excellent lengths of LMR400 coax.
Coax is expensive. The 100' section of the 400max from DX Engineering was about $115. The shorter jumpers are $20-35.

I bought a Balun Designs balun to build another antenna ($110) and about $45 worth of wire (500' so enough to build a few more antennas).

I said it a few days ago here, HF is expensive. My main reasoning for radio is the ability to talk several hundred miles with ease (NVIS) and thousands if needed. HF is the only game in town and it isn't any more expensive than the AR we all have with all the gizmos on it....and radio is just as important in the scheme of things.

Thanks for the info. I'll keep my eye out for a used deal on a TS430S or something similar. I am looking at some new radios with built-in antenna tuners but I saw your post on the MFJ and I could use something like that if I find a deal on something without it. I can scrounge some of the coax and wire for antenna building from work.

 

[JohnFreeman]

I'll also point out that if you are just operating below 30 Mhz, and 100W or so, the station on the other end is unlikely to be able to tell the difference between $1.25 foot RG-214 'ish type cable or RG58 or 8x that costs about one third of that. Likewise if you're feeding a dipole cut for the band you're operating on, you'll not need a balun of any type. I have a 40m/80M trap dipole in the trees that I feed directly with RG8X with up to 500W with no RF in the shack, grounding issues or the like. It's been up for 10 yrs at least and is problem free.

I'd recommend buying GOOD small coax (noncontaminating) if you're on a budget but there's little to be gained at HF in the way of performance for cable runs in the 100 foot range. The smaller stuff is also easier to route and work with and can be bent into much smaller radius than big coax.

I'm up in the 140 countries confirmed on 40 without a super serious effort, so it works well.

I'd never discourage someone from buying top flight coax, but at HF the difference in loss is minimal for reasonable length runs.

Now, if you're running 1.5 KW, a non-resonant antenna fed thru a tuner (which will result in considerably higher voltages appearing on your coax) , or operating at VHF UHF, you'd better have some extra insulation provided by spendy coax.

I do run RG-213 to my beam , but I'm feeding it ~1400 watts at times.... but always to a matched antenna.

A dipole antenna cut for 40/15 meters , no balun (center insulator easily made from the PVC hardware found at lowes) and RG8x might end up costing you $35 for coax (learn to solder on your own PL259s and save considerable money.) , a few bucks for the center insulator from the PVC bin , $10 for decent connectors and whatever wire you can come up with (HF antennas are not fussy about wire type/size at the 100W level... the bigger concern is mechanical strength)

Just other options for other budgets.

 

[WZ4I]

Now, if you're running 1.5 KW, a non-resonant antenna fed thru a tuner (which will result in considerably higher voltages appearing on your coax) , or operating at VHF UHF, you'd better have some extra insulation provided by spendy coax.

Ditch the non-balanced line, and use open wire ladder line and a good transmatch for HF.

 

[htperry]

Balance line is good until it's not. Coax has a more consistent impedance, convenient to use, store and transport. Balance line is great under ideal conditions, but the world is not ideal and the routing and use of balance line very particular or it very quickly becomes erratically unbalanced.

For all these reasons, balance line is not used in modern radio systems that command reliable, predictable performance. Ladder line is great for non-critical experimenter/hobbyist use.

 

[Lawless]

 

[WZ4I]

Balance line is good until it's not. Coax has a more consistent impedance, convenient to use, store and transport. Balance line is great under ideal conditions, but the world is not ideal and the routing and use of balance line very particular or it very quickly becomes erratically unbalanced.

For all these reasons, balance line is not used in modern radio systems that command reliable, predictable performance. Ladder line is great for non-critical experimenter/hobbyist use.

All transmission lines have their place. The post I was quoting was discussing the usage of a non-resonant antenna. In this case ladder-line is king. Much lower line loss, as compared to coax.

I once too believed what you said. That was until I began educating myself and began using ladder-line for all of my non-resonant dipoles over 25 years ago. Ladder-line is not for exclusively 'experimenter/hobbyist' as you have stated. It is for those of us who wish to put forth a little more effort in our wire antennas, and desire to have the most efficient means of transferring the RF power into our non-resonant antenna system.

73


EDIT:
My wire antennas are based on science, lab results, and from years of experimentation. I currently have 2 wire dipoles installed at my location that I use on 7Mhz, and lower. Both are broadside E/W, both are at the 115 ft level on my tower. One is a 135ft dipole fed with 450 ohm ladder line. The other is a resonant dipole cut for 1.9Mhz fed with RG-213. I will be more than happy to let anyone do an A/B reception test of my transmitted signal on 40, 60, 75, or 160 meters.

 

[WZ4I]

I will chime in because I recently went through this.

I got a used Kenwood TS430s that came with a matching power supply and a G5RV antenna (wire dipole) for $300

Since then, I bought a $160 MFJ antenna tuner (matches impedance of the feedline to the radio), a $80 MFJ power/SWR meter and some excellent lengths of LMR400 coax.
Coax is expensive. The 100' section of the 400max from DX Engineering was about $115. The shorter jumpers are $20-35.

I bought a Balun Designs balun to build another antenna ($110) and about $45 worth of wire (500' so enough to build a few more antennas).



I said it a few days ago here, HF is expensive. My main reasoning for radio is the ability to talk several hundred miles with ease (NVIS) and thousands if needed. HF is the only game in town and it isn't any more expensive than the AR we all have with all the gizmos on it....and radio is just as important in the scheme of things.

The 430 is a workhorse. Good suggestion. A good power supply (linear preferred) is also a wise investment. Avoid the swtiching types.

The ONLY thing I disagree with is the purchasing of most anything that is produced by MFJ (Mighty Fine Junk). It only cost a few dollars more to purchase a much better 'transmatch', and a decent metering system.

 

[Lawless]

I will chime in because I recently went through this.

I got a used Kenwood TS430s that came with a matching power supply and a G5RV antenna (wire dipole) for $300

Since then, I bought a $160 MFJ antenna tuner (matches impedance of the feedline to the radio), a $80 MFJ power/SWR meter and some excellent lengths of LMR400 coax.
Coax is expensive. The 100' section of the 400max from DX Engineering was about $115. The shorter jumpers are $20-35.

I bought a Balun Designs balun to build another antenna ($110) and about $45 worth of wire (500' so enough to build a few more antennas).



I said it a few days ago here, HF is expensive. My main reasoning for radio is the ability to talk several hundred miles with ease (NVIS) and thousands if needed. HF is the only game in town and it isn't any more expensive than the AR we all have with all the gizmos on it....and radio is just as important in the scheme of things.

The 430 is a workhorse. Good suggestion. A good power supply (linear preferred) is also a wise investment. Avoid the swtiching types.

The ONLY thing I disagree with is the purchasing of most anything that is produced by MFJ (Mighty Fine Junk). It only cost a few dollars more to purchase a much better 'transmatch', and a decent metering system.

What specific tuner do you recommend for a few dollars more? Meter?

MFJ stuff, if it works out of the box, is usually good. LDG, not so much.

 

[WZ4I]

Personally I use a Palstar AT4K Transmatch, and TelePost LP-100A Digital Vector Wattmeter. However there are many others just as good, or maybe even better. The MFJ stuff is hit and miss. Quality control is pretty much non-existent at MFJ.

 

[htperry]

I get your point, but ladder line must be used in a very specific manner or it becomes very unbalanced and unpredictable. I've seen ladder line on the ground, coiled, run by gutters and in attics, which all ruins the benefit of using ladder line. Coax as feedline suffers from none of those ills, so is less picky about it's use. More people will be successful in their use of coax feedline due to the less demanding installation criteria. Yes, ladder line works well for non-resonant antennas, as long as it is used properly. I recommend not running ladder line to the shack, rather use it for match as part of the antenna, then a balun to transition to coax into the shack (like a G5RV).

As for "tuners", MFJ enjoys a past reputation that it no longer deserves because of hams repeating "Mighty Fine Junk" as a glib funny. There's not many ham shacks that don't have some MFJ products. MFJ offers a broad line of useful products not seen by any other company. I hope your alternative isn't LDG, which has suffered reputation blow after blow in recent years for less capable products and horrendous customer service. I have both MFJ and LDG products that work well, but the MFJ tuners will tune a wider range of mismatch and faster.

Read the MFJ warranty and you will find they state specifically to feel free to attempt repairs on their products and it will not void your warranty. This truly is in the spirit of ham radio. Not many companies will still warranty a product tampered with by the customer.

 

[WZ4I]

I guess I'm one of the few who will not own any MFJ products. A very wise man once told me, it only cost a few dollar more to do it right, than it does to do it half-assed.

 

[htperry]

Personally I use a Palstar AT4K Transmatch, and TelePost LP-100A Digital Vector Wattmeter.

No doubt good products, but to say such seems to be "drive a Mercedes or don't drive at all". There are more affordable products that get the job done equally well, for those on a budget. Not everyone can enter ham radio owning a Flex 6500 radio, Alpha amp, Palstar AT4K and 150' tower stacked with M2 antennas. The reality is that a more than satisfactory station can be built for less than esoteric costs. It is good to afford the more expensive equipment, but cost doesn't always equate to better or reasonable to the average ham budget.

 

[WZ4I]

No doubt good products, but to say such seems to be "drive a Mercedes or don't drive at all". There are more affordable products that get the job done equally well, for those on a budget. Not everyone can enter ham radio owning a Flex 6500 radio, Alpha amp, Palstar AT4K and 150' tower stacked with M2 antennas. The reality is that a more than satisfactory station can be built for less than esoteric costs. It is good to afford the more expensive equipment, but cost doesn't always equate to better or reasonable to the average ham budget.

I would much rather have a 20 yr old Nye Viking transmatch, than a new MFJ transmatch any day.

 

[WZ4I]

I get your point, but ladder line must be used in a very specific manner or it becomes very unbalanced and unpredictable. I've seen ladder line on the ground, coiled, run by gutters and in attics, which all ruins the benefit of using ladder line.

Oh I've seen the same. That's why a little education about ladder-line can go a long way. Again, effort equals reward. Unfortunately this seems to be lacking in the ham community for the most part.

 

[htperry]

No doubt good products, but to say such seems to be "drive a Mercedes or don't drive at all". There are more affordable products that get the job done equally well, for those on a budget. Not everyone can enter ham radio owning a Flex 6500 radio, Alpha amp, Palstar AT4K and 150' tower stacked with M2 antennas. The reality is that a more than satisfactory station can be built for less than esoteric costs. It is good to afford the more expensive equipment, but cost doesn't always equate to better or reasonable to the average ham budget.

I would much rather have a 20 yr old Nye Viking transmatch, than a new MFJ transmatch any day.

That's your choice. Your money you buy what you want, but when advising others how to spend their money you should be mindful of their budget.

It isn't helpful to tell a ham to stay off the air until his budget can afford an $800 wattmeter or $2000 tuner. Some may never justify those costs into their ham radio needs. Everyone can upgrade, but not many start at the top. It's very much like guns. Start where you can and upgrade as you can justify. Some people will happily shoot a Glock forever.

I am radio agnostic and don't think because I own something, it's the only thing everyone else should buy. Even Baofeng has its place in getting operators on the air. I'm more about giving operators a good starting point from which to grow.

 

[WZ4I]

htperry commented
Today, 07:18 AM


That's your choice. Your money you buy what you want, but when advising others how to spend their money you should be mindful of their budget.

It isn't helpful to tell a ham to stay off the air until his budget can afford an $800 wattmeter or $2000 tuner. Some may never justify those costs into their ham radio needs. Everyone can upgrade, but not many start at the top. It's very much like guns. Start where you can and upgrade as you can justify. Some people will happily shoot a Glock forever.

I am radio agnostic and don't think because I own something, it's the only thing everyone else should buy. Even Baofeng has its place in getting operators on the air. I'm more about giving operators a good starting point from which to grow.


I never suggested anyone purchase a $800 wattmeter, or $2000.00 transmatch, or stay off the air. Lighten up OM! I simply suggested the usage of ladder-line for a non-resonant wire antenna is a much better choice than coaxial cable. There is very little to no cost difference in either! Yes, ladder-line requires a little more work! However the reward is worth it.

 

[JohnFreeman]

As Howard says, almost every shack owns some MFJ. I own their antenna analyzer and owned one of their low power transmatch units years ago. The analyzer is great, the antenna tuner was a good value for the price. My antenna tuner is a 1970 ish 25 lb heath version, which is "junk" compared to my EF Johnson KW matchbox from 1950*, however if you're a new ham on a budget running 100watt transceiver , most any MFJ will work fine. If at one point you outgrow it, you can sell it and recoup a good portion of your costs and buy up.

It's two caps, an inductor a switch , a couple diodes and a meter in a box. 100% US made with a warranty that can't be beat. Is it the best quality? No. Is it a good value? Hundreds of thousands of hams would indicate yes.

Buy it , use it , trade up when ready (or better yet, use resonant antennas) and life is good. If' you've got the time to wait, get lucky at a hamfest and have an elmer to help select a good used US made version, that's fine too.

The important part is to get on the air and make contacts.

* I use a tuner about 2% of the time I'm on the air.

 

[WZ4I]

Some folks like MFJ, some like Hi-Point firearms. Personally I'll pass on both. It only cost a few buck more to buy a better product.

 

[Snal~]

I swore that my shack would never host anything MFJ after some experience, I did have an analyzer that worked great, but I passed it on to a friend. I got a large antenna switch in a trade bundle that works as it should, and replaced 3 Delta 4-ways. Takes up a lot less room, so it's staying.

 

[WZ4I]

I swore that my shack would never host anything MFJ after some experience, I did have an analyzer that worked great, but I passed it on to a friend. I got a large antenna switch in a trade bundle that works as it should, and replaced 3 Delta 4-ways. Takes up a lot less room, so it's staying.

All of my comments made to the quality of MFJ equipment, came from personal experience with their products. Mainly the transmatches.

Good luck with that switch. You must not be running QRO.. I had one of their 2.5KW switch go tits up, when only running 500 watts into a Force 12 Yagi on a resonate freq.

Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

 

[Snal~]

All of my comments made to the quality of MFJ equipment, came from personal experience with their products. Mainly the transmatches.

Good luck with that switch. You must not be running QRO.. I had one of their 2.5KW switch go tits up, when only running 500 watts into a Force 12 Yagi on a resonate freq.

Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

Mine is the MFJ-1700B, I think it's rated for 2k (1k cw). Handles 6 radios and 6 antennas. I took it apart to check the soldering when I got it...all looked good so I put it in used.
It hasn't seen over 500 watts from my shack.

 

[WZ4I]

I won't and can't verify, however an reliable source once stated that Martin hires a lot of un-skilled labor to assemble his products. Therefore the quality is hit and miss.

 

[noway2]

The discussion about the twin lead (ladder line) vs coax reminds me of this older article from when 100Mb Ethernet was just coming out: http://www.sigcon.com/Pubs/edn/SoGoodBarbedWire.htm. This is an excellent site by the way, which I became a den of after reading his High a Speed Digital Design which enabled me to address some EMI issues on a product at work.

In theory, ladder line will have a lower dielectric loss than a polyethylene based coax and with careful planning and implementation could result in more energy making its way between the antenna and the transmitter / receiver. However, in practice, for most people, I think the disadvantages would outweigh the advantages, both in terms of the physical and electrical properties. Also, in practice, given moderate length runs, especially at HF frequencies, the losses aren't going to be that great. It kind of makes me think of the folks thst claimed they could hear the missing notes in digitized music....

 

[WZ4I]

The discussion about the twin lead (ladder line) vs coax reminds me of this older article from when 100Mb Ethernet was just coming out: http://www.sigcon.com/Pubs/edn/SoGoodBarbedWire.htm. This is an excellent site by the way, which I became a den of after reading his High a Speed Digital Design which enabled me to address some EMI issues on a product at work.

In theory, ladder line will have a lower dielectric loss than a polyethylene based coax and with careful planning and implementation could result in more energy making its way between the antenna and the transmitter / receiver. However, in practice, for most people, I think the disadvantages would outweigh the advantages, both in terms of the physical and electrical properties. Also, in practice, given moderate length runs, especially at HF frequencies, the losses aren't going to be that great. It kind of makes me think of the folks thst claimed they could hear the missing notes in digitized music....

Too bad a large population of the ham community won't take the time for planning and implementation. A lot are looking for that EASY BUTTON!

I can lead you to the water. I can't make ya drink it.

http://www.arrl.org/feed-lines

 

[WZ4I]

For those who are still interested in this thread, one last comment from me, then I'm QSY...

Using ladder-line is not as difficult as some will lead you to believe. My observation from the past 30+ years in this hobby is, those who bad mouth ladder-line have never actually used it themselves. They typically rely upon others who may have had an bad experience with this transmission line, which was usually caused by their own lack of knowledge.


I'm going to attempt the KISS method here. If using a non-balanced transmission line into a non-resonate dipole, the wide impedance mismatch, or high SWR as some will say, causes the coaxial cable to become very inefficient. The RF power you apply into the coax, can't make it to the antenna due to the reflected power (SWR). However that RF power still must go somewhere! It does. The coaxial cable will begin to adsorb this energy, turning it into heat. This does not occur at these levels when using a BALANCED transmission line.

I'll provide some photos of my antenna system, so you can see that using ladder-line is not as difficult as some would have you to believe.

This is an isolation transformer (balun) mounted to the exterior of my home. The transformer is connected to my transmatch via 8 ft piece of RG-213. The ladder line leading to my non-resonate dipole is connected to the output of this transformer.


From here the ladder-line is suspended in free space, leading to the feed-point of this dipole.


That's it! Real difficult? I don't think so.

There is a 160M resonate dipole to the right side of my tower. It's actually a few feet higher. The 135ft (left side) ladder line fed dipole will blow the resonate 160M out of the water on 40, 60, and 75 meters. I've performed A B test on these antennas numerous times. Never has the coaxial fed dipole out performed the 135ft dipole any band EXCEPT 160 meters, where I would expect it too!


The tower is a 125ft Rohn. The Yagi is a Force 12. Great Yagi for 10/15/20.

 

[JohnFreeman]

Avoid the problem by using resonant antennas and decent full sized and the loss at HF becomes a mathematical concern not a practical one until ten meter-ish. If you have a matched load, there's no reflection, maximum power transfer occurs and the line loss in negligible in either case.

If I was feeding an unmatched antenna thru a tuner, especially if I was going to go QRO, I'd use open line. The loss in that situation is considerably less than in a coax fed system. If you're a casual ragchewer on 40M , then either system is fine. If you're not sure of your future in ham radio and how much budget you can allocate then hook ANYTHING up and get on the air.

Don't over analyze at the beginning... buy what you can afford and go play and more importantly, learn. Whatever you put up the first time, you'll shortly look at and want to modify.

308, that's a very nice antenna stack. Is the Force 12 the antenna that had some issues with pop rivets? When I rebuilt my Cushcraft 4 bander, I took every damned fastener and joint off , cleaned , put no-ox on the joint and reassembled with new clamps and hardware.. It's been pretty solid since. Is that Rohn 25? You should be proud of that antenna!

 

[JohnFreeman]

If you see an EF Johnson antenna tuner at a fest, look at it carefully. If you skip to the part in this where the internals are shown, notice the use of strap as interconnect, ceramic everything and the general quality of construction. An antenna "tuner" is a pretty basic item, and Johnson made it with components (which was their business) which were second to none.

I don't know what a KW matchbox like this gets at a hamfest these days but even the 250w version is built better than almost everyone's KW rated version, but can be had for about $100. It will last a lifetime but it's designed primarily to feed balanced lines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iz7uTvh5ISI

Just the SWITCH in this tuner would be in the $150 range if you could find someone to make it for you.

My point is, that sometimes you can buy very very good, relatively inexpensively.

 

[Lawless]

Some folks like MFJ, some like Hi-Point firearms. Personally I'll pass on both. It only cost a few buck more to buy a better product.

You keep saying that it costs a few dollars more to buy a better product, but there is no product for a few dollars more that I am aware of which is better. MFJ practically owns the under $200 antenna tuner market.

 

[WZ4I]

Avoid the problem by using resonant antennas and decent full sized and the loss at HF becomes a mathematical concern not a practical one until ten meter-ish. If you have a matched load, there's no reflection, maximum power transfer occurs and the line loss in negligible in either case.

If I was feeding an unmatched antenna thru a tuner, especially if I was going to go QRO, I'd use open line. The loss in that situation is considerably less than in a coax fed system. If you're a casual ragchewer on 40M , then either system is fine. If you're not sure of your future in ham radio and how much budget you can allocate then hook ANYTHING up and get on the air.

Don't over analyze at the beginning... buy what you can afford and go play and more importantly, learn. Whatever you put up the first time, you'll shortly look at and want to modify.

308, that's a very nice antenna stack. Is the Force 12 the antenna that had some issues with pop rivets? When I rebuilt my Cushcraft 4 bander, I took every damned fastener and joint off , cleaned , put no-ox on the joint and reassembled with new clamps and hardware.. It's been pretty solid since. Is that Rohn 25? You should be proud of that antenna!

A resonate antenna for each band of course is best, unfortunately many don't not have enough real estate for that option. Another good option would be to have the matchbox at the antenna feed point (matchbox at the antenna feedpoint is now a true antenna tuner). The cost of such a system, and maintenance again prevents most from doing so.

On the Force12, it's been up since 2001. Zero issues. Went thru a pretty good ice storm back several years ago, and she looked like a octopus. But popped right back into shape when the ice melted. I've worked a lot of DX with it. I've been very pleased with it's performance. The weight is supported by a trust bearing, and the rotor is a pre MFJ Hy-Gain.

Yeah that's a Rohn 25. I have several pulleys at the 115ft level that I use to hoist dipoles. Right now just have 2. That's all I need since I'm running open wire on the 135ft'er. I also have a ground mounted 40M mono band vertical available, but it's not up right now. The feedpoint has 90 1/4 wave (+/- on a few) radials. Works 40M DX very well.

I enjoy the hobby. Been on the air for over 30 years. I've seen, and heard a lot changes. If you've been in hobby more than 20 years (and I believe you have), you'll know exactly what I'm referring to. My favorite band is 60M. No LIDS, no KIDS, no TOILET TICKS, at least not yet. I work 60M stationary, mobile, and QRP backpacking. QRP backpacking being my favorite. Love the QRP challenge. Ft-817ND, ZM-2 Transmatch, 60M 24Ga wire dipole, RG-142 coax, and several Li-Po batteries. Looking forward to spring so our group can get back on the trail..

73

 

[noway2]

308Prepper

I enjoy the hobby. Been on the air for over 30 years. I've seen, and heard a lot changes. If you've been in hobby more than 20 years (and I believe you have), you'll know exactly what I'm referring to. My favorite band is 60M. No LIDS, no KIDS, no TOILET TICKS. I work 60M stationary, mobile, and QRP backpacking. QRP backpacking being my favorite. Love the QRP challenge. Looking forward to spring so our group can get back on the trail..

I've only been licensed (general) a couple of months. I'm more of the buy quality sort and have already sunk tthe better part of a grand into hardware and I still haven't gotten on HF. I plan to later this year, but other big expenses have gotten in the way and they seem to just keep coming (damned Obamacare). I was having a QSO with an old timer on 2m, who had the same complaint about lids, kids, and toilet tricks and commented that it was refreshing to talk to someone on 2M who wasn't like that and "invited" me to join him on 60m. I did mention that I'm not really a kid as I'm middle aged and believe in the ethos of proper etiquette on the air. In fact, I would say that I don't find much of that problem on the main repeater I tune into, but I've seen some of this type of behavior on others.

 

[JohnFreeman]

I've been on the air since 1970 and have been pretty active the whole time (diversions into cars, guns , females, college and career notwithstanding). There's been a lot of changes and most of them mirror the changes in society in general. I operate mostly CW, some AM, and rarely VHF. I too am pretty militant about good operating practices on the air. There's still a lot of good folks out there, particularly on CW.

I've never been on 60m, but will try and give a listen. The whole idea of "channelization" of that bend has never made sense to me, but I'm eternally confident that hams will make the most of it, regardless the restrictions. I'm not a backpacker but have operated some day field trips with portable gear (including some time in the Eno River park with a altoids tin transceiver (I think one of Steve Webers designs) and a 8 cell AA pack in the rain. I made about a dozen contacts and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Man, this thread has wandered!

 

[WZ4I]

The whole idea of "channelization" of that bend has never made sense to me, but I'm eternally confident that hams will make the most of it, regardless the restrictions. I'm not a backpacker but have operated some day field trips with portable gear (including some time in the Eno River park with a altoids tin transceiver (I think one of Steve Webers designs) and a 8 cell AA pack in the rain. I made about a dozen contacts and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Man, this thread has wandered!

Yeah, the channelization took some getting used to. However quickly discovered that a channelized band was perfect for backpacking, and mobile. Makes it very easy for us to be located on a band by those who know were out on the trail or on the road, and wish to make contact. As for VHF/UHF you and I are from the same mold.

BTW if you get on 60M, you'll find the same good operating practice in effect, as on CW.

Yeah thread has wandered... 73

 

[Cape Fear]

Well I'm glad it has wandered, you guys' last few posts are necessary guidelines for noobs like me. It is as important to learn what NOT to do as it is to learn what to do. Just don't forget there are ignorant beginners like me who aren't necessarily jerks, LIDS, or KIDS, just uninformed. Without you "seasoned" operators to show us the way we might not get it right. And you know there is a lot to learn in this hobby.

 

[WZ4I]

LIDS, KIDS, and TOILET TICKS! Trust me, there are probably MORE old timers that fall into this category, than noobs. Take a look at the FCC Enforcement postings, and you'll see what I mean...

 

[JohnFreeman]

I have to agree that many of the most annoying bad operator habits come from old timers who should know better.

If I had ONE piece of advice for noobs , it would be : Don't affect any radio "jargon" .... just talk to people like you'd talk to them face to face.

 

[georgel]

MFJ is great for the money. Sometimes the equipment seems crude and basic, but it's functional. Great way to start because it doesn't require a bank loan and resale is always good. This let newbies decide if they want to go on and invest toward higher dollar equipment. But for me, the spirit of ham radio is doing more with less.
BTW, I plan on experimenting with a full wave loop and ladder line. But it's not my first antenna experiment either.