The second part deals with testing for stopping on the link. While not technically a timing issue, it is related.
This malfunction has the potential to be much worse than the one outlined previously because the gun seems to function fine and often gives no visual clue that it's happening until something lets go. The only indication is a crack starting at the junction of barrel and lower lug that, due to the springy nature of the steel, closes up when the barrel is removed and is nearly impossible to see. Or...if it fractures into the chamber...lets you know that something is wrong by a bulge in the brass. The shape is like a V with the point rounded.
The problem is that it happens quickly, and the chamber crack can start and cause the barrel to completely fail within the same magazine. If the gases cause a sympathetic detonation of rounds in the magazine, it can destroy the frame and remove fingers.
Possible causes are:
Vertical impact surface located too far rearward.
Barrel lug located too far forward.
Barrel bed badly machined. Too high.
Short link or link pin in lug mislocated.
It's worth noting that every Norinco I've ever handled except one has exhibited some degree of stopping on the link. The majority have shown only light binding, and in every one, the location of the barrel lug was the cause. Thart's why every Norinco I own or have owned...except the one mentioned...have had their barrels replaced. I've found the condition in a few Colts and Springfields, and one in a Para Ordnance. Only one was due to the location of the vertical impact surface.
The good news is that the test is quick and simple.
Pop the slidestop partway out and hang the arm vertically. Press it back into the frame, leaving the arm hanging. Holding the gun horizontally, press the muzzle straight back against a doorframe or wall until it hard stops and hold it firmly. If the slidestop arm will swing freely, all is good. If it gets into a bind...even a light one...the barrel is either stopping on the link or the frame bed is too high. Neither one is good. Both can fracture the lug or the chamber. It just takes the frame bed longer to happen.
Also worth noting is that if the lug fractures and gives enough to get deep into the frame well, the gun is next to impossible to disassemble without the help of a professional...so run this test on your guns or any that you're looking to buy. It could save you a major headache a little ways down the road.
Here endeth the lesson.
This malfunction has the potential to be much worse than the one outlined previously because the gun seems to function fine and often gives no visual clue that it's happening until something lets go. The only indication is a crack starting at the junction of barrel and lower lug that, due to the springy nature of the steel, closes up when the barrel is removed and is nearly impossible to see. Or...if it fractures into the chamber...lets you know that something is wrong by a bulge in the brass. The shape is like a V with the point rounded.
The problem is that it happens quickly, and the chamber crack can start and cause the barrel to completely fail within the same magazine. If the gases cause a sympathetic detonation of rounds in the magazine, it can destroy the frame and remove fingers.
Possible causes are:
Vertical impact surface located too far rearward.
Barrel lug located too far forward.
Barrel bed badly machined. Too high.
Short link or link pin in lug mislocated.
It's worth noting that every Norinco I've ever handled except one has exhibited some degree of stopping on the link. The majority have shown only light binding, and in every one, the location of the barrel lug was the cause. Thart's why every Norinco I own or have owned...except the one mentioned...have had their barrels replaced. I've found the condition in a few Colts and Springfields, and one in a Para Ordnance. Only one was due to the location of the vertical impact surface.
The good news is that the test is quick and simple.
Pop the slidestop partway out and hang the arm vertically. Press it back into the frame, leaving the arm hanging. Holding the gun horizontally, press the muzzle straight back against a doorframe or wall until it hard stops and hold it firmly. If the slidestop arm will swing freely, all is good. If it gets into a bind...even a light one...the barrel is either stopping on the link or the frame bed is too high. Neither one is good. Both can fracture the lug or the chamber. It just takes the frame bed longer to happen.
Also worth noting is that if the lug fractures and gives enough to get deep into the frame well, the gun is next to impossible to disassemble without the help of a professional...so run this test on your guns or any that you're looking to buy. It could save you a major headache a little ways down the road.
Here endeth the lesson.
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