Best source for wood stove chimney pipe?

DangerRuss

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I’m getting a wood stove (thanks @Armed4defense !) to provide more heat at the foundry in winter. (definitely don’t need it during other seasons!)
It’s an un-insulated cinderblock building that is not connected to any other structures, and is not a residence. I’ll be installing it myself.
What’s a cost-effective source for the stove pipe?
I’ll need to buy the chimney pipe and the brackets to attach it to the building, or I can make the brackets if needed.
I’ll need a 90 to run horizontally thru the wall, and another 90 to turn it vertical and then go high enough above the eave.
Thanks for any suggestions on where to buy! If there are local sources - I live near RTP and the foundry is in Kernersville.
 
You could try agri supply in raleigh but not sure they have it.
 
While we're on the subject, I suggested he use single wall pipe INSIDE, and doublewall OUTSIDE. Chime in if that's wrong.
 
See if you can find some actual pipe for the thru-wall section and the outside part. 1 time and done. @eddie0225 has the number to a place that has reclaimed pipe and steel. Real close to walnut cove

K&g has stainless cheaper than the regular. Eddie can tell you about that place as well
 
I just looked on Amazon, that stuff has really gone up in price!
 
See if you can find some actual pipe for the thru-wall section and the outside part. 1 time and done. @eddie0225 has the number to a place that has reclaimed pipe and steel. Real close to walnut cove

K&g has stainless cheaper than the regular. Eddie can tell you about that place as well
K&D? oh you mean K&G
 
Why would you use double wall outside? Isn't multi wall used only if you need clearance from combustibles?
 
Why would you use double wall outside? Isn't multi wall used only if you need clearance from combustibles?

I'd heard, and I could be wrong, that in a nutshell it prevents the exhaust from cooling and reversing direction.
 

1.Don’t use regular home round pipe or that black cheap stove pipe.
2. Use 24 gauge pipe
3. When you put crimps in the pipe they should be on the ends going outward.
4. Install a damper inside like a tee.
5. No need for double wall pipe unless close to combustibles
6. Use two piece thru wall thimble. If concrete has insulation foam pellets a insulated foreproof batting should be between thimble and pipe exiting wall.
7. Exterior vertical run needs cap and screen for birds. Should be supprted by metal bracing.
 
4. Install a damper inside like a tee.
this is on the stove already. Is this what you mean?
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6. Use two piece thru wall thimble. If concrete has insulation foam pellets a insulated foreproof batting should be between thimble and pipe exiting wall.
No insulation in the wall. Just block
 
You want to use an insulated pipe outside to keep the "stack temperature" up. If stack temperature drops below 250 degrees creasote will condense on interior of pipe. When temperature goes back up it will ignite and burn inside chimney. Not what you want.
 
Back in the mid 70s I owned a wood stove store called Stoves 'n Such. Sold high efficiency scandanavian stoves as well as American made stoves.

We sold Metalbestos brand insulated pipe. My first house had metalbestos pipe coupled with a Jotul Number 1 Combi stove. Even with good dry wood and the good pipe we had a chimney fire once. Exciting for a few minutes until we could cut off oxygen supply.
 
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If it were me and this was a longer term set up , I would buy chimney block for the outside and build an actual Masonry chimney. It’s not hard to do
 
If it were me and this was a longer term set up , I would buy chimney block for the outside and build an actual Masonry chimney. It’s not hard to do
I hope to only be at this location 2-3 more years - I’d like to eventually move the foundry closer to where I live. For a long term install, I understand what you’re saying about masonry
 
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